MIAquaFire
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- Nov 18, 2021
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It would just be an assumption as i do dont have a DO meter. But i have 3 3650gph pumps and 1 ap100 pump. Its plentyYou say your dissolved oxygen level is "very high"
What exactly is "very high" and what are you using to get those readings?
Water from the tap sucks it 380ppmI had very soft water. 85 ppms from the tap. Whats your water look like from the tap?
you need to figure what your water resource ph and ec/ppm is. from there you need to get it to 0.3 EC and then add the nutrients called in the schedule. Get the ph between 5.5 - 5.9 and the temps to 80f with 60+RH
Also, focus on the new growth, vs the old leaves. there already damaged. doing a clean up wouldn't be bad
Are you saying to much water pressure?HI I THINK YOU HAVE TO MUST WATERPOWER YOU HAVE A NICE WATER SYSTEM BUT I MAKE SAME PROBLEM FIRST TIME I BUILD HYDROPONICS TO MUST WATERPOWER I CAN SE ALL YOUR PLANT HAVE SAME PROBLEM REGARD DENMARK
That's really hard water. What's your end ppms after nutrients and all your additives?Water from the tap sucks it 380ppm
ya, that is hard water. Are you currently getting your water resource from a filter?Water from the tap sucks it 380ppm
Any change today? Getting any lime green shoots at the tops hopefully?Nrw growth isnt doing so great right now. The top pics were actually from today. Using floraflex nutes
I havent checked today yet on shoots. But my water and totes are clear as can be now since adding benniesnrhe other day.Any change today? Getting any lime green shoots at the tops hopefully?
The way you are set up with water below the pots and that many bubbles bursting right under the pots, this should grow like an aeroponics system - fast! If things are correct now, you should be seeing rapid improvement at the roots and new growth. If not, we still have something out of whack.
Going back to the pool shock, you mentioned you never saw the result of adding it. How were you testing?
I see a lot of bubbles building up on the edges of the totes. This is 1 of 2 things IMO. Either you have just that much air and the bubbles cannot pop as quick as they are replaced, or you have something in the water that is being "foam fractionated" out. If you have ever run marine aquariums, you know what a protein skimmer is. It is an effective method of removing contaminants, mostly organic, from water. It almost seems like you have that action going on and there is something in the water that you are not detecting.
View attachment 1189780
With a marine tank, if there is nothing in the water to remove, the bubbles don't last long enough to make it into the collection cup. It basically shuts down the bubble process without something to form on.
I'm guessing here.
I know manits wild, wich is why im stumped to lol. So the plants are pure michigan f1 and ice cream cake by j_beezy. Have grown both flawlessly already and these are clones of the ones already grown out.I'm really curious about this one. On the surface it seems like you are doing everything right, but the plants clearly disagree.
I believe in the pics you said they were 2 different strains, correct? What are they? Seed or clone?
Based on everything you are telling us, you should be in the zone and just need to get out of the way to let the plants grow. I'm thinking possibly genetics or bad starts at this point??? Man even when I screw up in some way, the stuff still grows like a weed for me. This stuff is typically not this fragile that something like PH of 6.0 vs 5.8 or a temp of 76 vs 80 will have this kind of detrimental effect.
We are missing some data point that will be an ah-ha moment when you figure it out.
I've never been able to oversaturate mine lol. I might be repeating myself but I still suggest completely submerging all your roots, it seems as if they can't pull any nutrients up.I know manits wild, wich is why im stumped to lol. So the plants are pure michigan f1 and ice cream cake by j_beezy. Have grown both flawlessly already and these are clones of the ones already grown out.
Im wondering if maybe the clones were just to weak or something at this point but never had an issue before like this, also as unasked earlier they look 2x as bad now today, im actually going to scrap them and start over because they are bad bad now hardly even any green ontop.
Im almost thinking that them getting hit right away somehow with pythium stressed them out bad and then me hirting them with pool shock just put them over.
The air is actually pumped in from outside fresh air. I run 3 eco pumps and 1 pondmaster ap100 diaphram pump.
I have cuts sitting in water right now that im going to root in an aero cloner this time instead of rockwool or root riot cubes. Me and rockwool simply dont get along, im terrible at oversaturating it lol but those plnts in the pics are in root riot cubes NOT rockwool
I started with a live system like i normally run. That's what had my thinking all messed about this in the first place and why i shocked the system to sterile and reintroduced bennies again (which did fully clear up my water) i even run bennies when cloning as well! Now the water and system is on point and the plants look to be done for.I've never been able to oversaturate mine lol. I might be repeating myself but I still suggest completely submerging all your roots, it seems as if they can't pull any nutrients up.
I use BBs though and feel they work best with the rockwool submerged, they make a nice home in it and promote root growth by keeping them clean.
I wish everyone ran live systems, I'd be way more useful. Now all I do is find myself learning how not to grow lol.. I'll never leave an air gap, and ill never run sterile.. All these guys with challenging problems are sterile. Then the low Temps required for sterile.. Yea hard to run 72 on sterile, unless u use chlorine, which I couldn't imaginge would be good for the plants.
I don't mean to rant, it just sucks watching people fight problems that they could avoid. You wouldn't have these issues in a live system, at least not this long.
If you were running BB's and you still got root rot, it means you still have lots of light leaks in your system. You can wrap blankets around everything, which will help keeping it cooler, and will stop light leaks.I started with a live system like i normally run. That's what had my thinking all messed about this in the first place and why i shocked the system to sterile and reintroduced bennies again (which did fully clear up my water) i even run bennies when cloning as well! Now the water and system is on point and the plants look to be done for.
Really sucks honestly, my 1st round ever with undercurrent kind of went this same way and i trashed all the plants. The next 2 running bennies i never had a hiccup of an issue and then this time its been a mess again. And i didnt change a thing with the system this round from the last 2
My last run was with hydrogaurd and did great as well. Tbh i have tried SAG and it nevwr worked as well for me.If you were running BB's and you still got root rot, it means you still have lots of light leaks in your system. You can wrap blankets around everything, which will help keeping it cooler, and will stop light leaks.
My system with hydroguard is perfect. I am overconfident I will never see root rot again. Hell my 6 plants roots were all tied together, i took a razor blade to all 6 of my plants roots, cut the hell of of them just to transplant them to my flower room. I didnt even clean all the dead roots off very well, and i just stuck them in my system, running no filter stones, or spounge filter. Just bbs. .and boy oh boy did they love their hydro home lol. After transplant i opened one bucket 30 days later, and they were perfect white, i was relieved lol, but i had no deffeciences up top so I knew they were good. Then a month later, they are still good. I only did 1 res change in 2 months. With BB's i do one month res changes lol. . .i mean I topp off and add water, but usually its about a month before I have to, 80 gallon holding capacity with 6 plants lol. .
Hydroguard is my best ingredient in my opinion.
Yea I generally like trying new things, yet seeing all the issues everyone has had on all different kinds, I feel my last change would be hydroguard. Lets say I do this for 5 years, and I try all of everything, I found my best ratios of everything lol, Thats when ill try something other than hydroguard. For me its cheap, the colonys last forever, and yea why change what works perfect. Honestly im going to try not adding hydroguard when I topp off. I want to see if my original 2ml per gal at the start will last 1.5 months until my res change. I add it when I top off, and then my ph always drops, which also happens when BBS multiply meaning I have a large colony.My last run was with hydrogaurd and did great as well. Tbh i have tried SAG and it nevwr worked as well for me.
I bet you i had to much light leaks through the netpots at first this round before i covered them with mylar. The first week there was no coverage over them and light could def leak through the top of the pots... that was def my issue with the brown stuff in the water at the beg right there
Right on, ty!Yea I generally like trying new things, yet seeing all the issues everyone has had on all different kinds, I feel my last change would be hydroguard. Lets say I do this for 5 years, and I try all of everything, I found my best ratios of everything lol, Thats when ill try something other than hydroguard. For me its cheap, the colonys last forever, and yea why change what works perfect. Honestly im going to try not adding hydroguard when I topp off. I want to see if my original 2ml per gal at the start will last 1.5 months until my res change. I add it when I top off, and then my ph always drops, which also happens when BBS multiply meaning I have a large colony.
In most hydro systems the PH slowly drifts up, mine almost stays stagnant due to the BBS multiplying and converting nutrients and fungus into enzymes. So my ph doesnt drift as much as others. I add ph up or down about once a week lol. . its so gravy.
Also 2 other tips someone gave me on here that are undeniable once tried, res temps 72F, and "Massive" bloom enchancer. It has "triacontanol" which is taken from bees wax and in all side by side grows is show to produce faster growth, actually faster nutrient flow. I dont use enzymes anymore either. Flora trio, calmag, massive and hydroguard.
l guess id say the only reason I talk this shit up is because ive been growing barely over 6 months, and yea. . I can already grow faster plants than most,(minus these freaks on thc). I guess I want to see more people running live systems, which when done correctly, shows why people shouldnt run sterile. I am at odds with this bubble world, we need to stop destroying the cell walls of everything lol. . we are making everything so sensitive. . . but thats another story.
Also if you use BBS, dont ever add any h202 or chlorine or peroxide, nothing. . . .cant even add water from the tap due to the chlorine, all that destroys your bbs.
Ok so, somewhere on the site where the calculator is; it says that with cal mag you need to reach 0.3 EC and from there mix your nutrients for the week.I run an RO system
It would just be an assumption as i do dont have a DO meter. But i have 3 3650gph pumps and 1 ap100 pump. Its plenty
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