Reno 911!!!

oldskol4evr · Jun 15, 2018

Ecompost said:
oh hell yeah, here is your baby today buddy @oldskol4evr i been picking this bitch up at 8, the dark room is open till 8am and its working ok man, no tent, no lights no problems, even get some red and purps again, aint that the shit, I love this plant smells so fucking good

ya i think im throw these clones i got going outside to and bring um in at dark,get bugs oh well wont be the first or last time,hahah at least threw veg,i can shade them a bit so the blistering heat wont be directly on them around 11 to 2,thats when they struggle,i did them outside plants last year same way,they slowed a bit till i threw that shade over them,then they took off regardless of triple digits,,have you noticed the white blaze is a hungry bitch,shit seems mine wont feed everyday lmao every run been the same too,which throws a shedule for feed out the door for the tent hahah,gt got some banging too,i had a feller in new mexico grew 100 of them,did real good in that heat outside,im still lead to believe they like cold weather best,but still get r done each way,just more colors to her in cool weather

Ecompost · Jun 17, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
ya i think im throw these clones i got going outside to and bring um in at dark,get bugs oh well wont be the first or last time,hahah at least threw veg,i can shade them a bit so the blistering heat wont be directly on them around 11 to 2,thats when they struggle,i did them outside plants last year same way,they slowed a bit till i threw that shade over them,then they took off regardless of triple digits,,have you noticed the white blaze is a hungry bitch,shit seems mine wont feed everyday lmao every run been the same too,which throws a shedule for feed out the door for the tent hahah,gt got some banging too,i had a feller in new mexico grew 100 of them,did real good in that heat outside,im still lead to believe they like cold weather best,but still get r done each way,just more colors to her in cool weather

it is one of the better plants for the heat. yours and @Srenots all coped really well with the triples here too, and thick enough to cope with the winds that rolls in off the mountains as temps increase.
I havent fed her with liquids, but she is in some good soil so this is more a case of better CEC balance over using some shop brought low CEC shit. She seems to really like the custom soil I made.
I used local clays and the soil from the Ceratonia siliqua tree (for those that dont know this tree) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceratonia_siliqua, plus I made the bokashi and it has some organics, manures, char, kelp meals, molasses and so on, and rice hulls for aeration, these are local hulls too, well about 25 miles or so from here, and the LAB made from the same local wash. So I am making it as resonant as I can.
The bigger ones I am growing from clones are or will be fed and they are getting pretty big now. I am feeding on physical changes, so they had a mix of my foliar products from before cutting to now but not weekly or anything, this is Nano Breathe before I took the cuts, then again @3 with feeds @6th....and so on. They have all had Root Better and live in the same soil profile as mom with lots of leg room. They wont get drench fed, but they will continue to get the foliar treatments every 3-4 weeks up to mid bloom

oldskol4evr · Jun 17, 2018

been looking at a few soil profiles,i need something that will drain but not to a point of every day feeding,so im thinking ok trying in my raised beds a mix,granted the box is 7 1/2 in thick,im thinking something along line of 2inches of course sand in the bottom and rest silt,water will flow sideways till it can finally go threw sand base,there for watering the box and staying there a few days,so layering will be the clay bottom,sand then silt,just for a starting reference if you dig,this garden soil i bought has sawdust in it and dont absorb very well,i want a soil that can become no till,as is now every time im harvest im having to mix soil and amends init to be some what productive if you dig and still maintain 25% air,25% water,45 %mineral base,5% organic materials,now questions are how,i figure it out one day,stoners roll that way,hahahha

Ecompost · Jun 19, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
been looking at a few soil profiles,i need something that will drain but not to a point of every day feeding,so im thinking ok trying in my raised beds a mix,granted the box is 7 1/2 in thick,im thinking something along line of 2inches of course sand in the bottom and rest silt,water will flow sideways till it can finally go threw sand base,there for watering the box and staying there a few days,so layering will be the clay bottom,sand then silt,just for a starting reference if you dig,this garden soil i bought has sawdust in it and dont absorb very well,i want a soil that can become no till,as is now every time im harvest im having to mix soil and amends init to be some what productive if you dig and still maintain 25% air,25% water,45 %mineral base,5% organic materials,now questions are how,i figure it out one day,stoners roll that way,hahahha

Yeah, the CEC or ability to hold food in situ is going to be dependent on your clay rates. The percentages (%) of Organic Matter are going to dictate watering frequency.
Digging local soil is hard work in the heat so this is something you want to think about over winter, collecting material then is easier I find.
In late spring and summer, I like to add material from Ant burrows after rains, cause its easy to get when it piles up on the surface, but if you got Moles or some shit, even better, more material faster. You had rain right so you should see these if you've enough ants locally and the material is good, it holds here at least up to 2% OM and is a good well mixed sample usually, containing all the things we need, sand silt and clays, pre blended and with ant manures, decaying insect bodies and so reasonable levels of Chitin which is a super good base for root development, it deters root knot worms and increases the likelihood of fungal mass uptake.
Make sure you filter any collected material for ant eggs but ant mounds they are usually clean. I find young ants can be annoying for mycorrhization since ants secrete formic acids which deter fungal growth, esp filamentous fungus like that we need, so Actinos and Mycos and so on, this impacts the chances for plants in high heat, high drought, low RH areas.
Any wild material is best laid out flat on say plastic sheeting, this way you can quickly see grubs and other potential hazard, and most beechos will pick up and walk off before you need to hook them out, once disturbed.
Once you have a a good base, the biggest expense would be top dressing with compost and wood ash imo. Both of these you can make on site.
You will usually have to add compost from time to time buddy, there isnt much getting away from this. otherwise its cover cropping and $ to $ there is nothing in it, but less labor for compost IMO

oldskol4evr · Jun 19, 2018

Ecompost said:
Yeah, the CEC or ability to hold food in situ is going to be dependent on your clay rates. The percentages (%) of Organic Matter are going to dictate watering frequency.
Digging local soil is hard work in the heat so this is something you want to think about over winter, collecting material then is easier I find.
In late spring and summer, I like to add material from Ant burrows after rains, cause its easy to get when it piles up on the surface, but if you got Moles or some shit, even better, more material faster. You had rain right so you should see these if you've enough ants locally and the material is good, it holds here at least up to 2% OM and is a good well mixed sample usually, containing all the things we need, sand silt and clays, pre blended and with ant manures, decaying insect bodies and so reasonable levels of Chitin which is a super good base for root development, it deters root knot worms and increases the likelihood of fungal mass uptake.
Make sure you filter any collected material for ant eggs but ant mounds they are usually clean. I find young ants can be annoying for mycorrhization since ants secrete formic acids which deter fungal growth, esp filamentous fungus like that we need, so Actinos and Mycos and so on, this impacts the chances for plants in high heat, high drought, low RH areas.
Any wild material is best laid out flat on say plastic sheeting, this way you can quickly see grubs and other potential hazard, and most beechos will pick up and walk off before you need to hook them out, once disturbed.
Once you have a a good base, the biggest expense would be top dressing with compost and wood ash imo. Both of these you can make on site.
You will usually have to add compost from time to time buddy, there isnt much getting away from this. otherwise its cover cropping and $ to $ there is nothing in it, but less labor for compost IMO

well im thinking about these totes and pots i got in back of house,they are about 18in deep,so i was thinking about 6in in the bottom of pots and totes of soil,then add about 2inchs of course sand,then top all off with soil,reason for this is to stop water and feed from going straight threw and hold up on the sand to pressure makes it go threw and there for forcing water to sides and watering the pots more even if you dig,im going to also set up some arrangment for keeping side of them as you mentioned to keep them cool in direct sunlight,topped off with mulch of even maybe a cover of sort ,were i can still get into water them,sun just bakes the side of containers,i water a little then have to come back and get a good watering in once the sides have absorded enough to hold it ,down in the big garden my topsoil layer is only about 6in deep and i hit sediment,so i was thinking there of taking 4ft at a time and pulling topsoil off and to the side,putting in a layer of course sand,replacing top soil,after all done,building a frame around the whole damn thing and then coming in with some real good topsoil to level it out,starting over again,ya,lol,living on a rock has disadvantages for sure,but i will getrdone if you dig,im almost to the point of giving up,but i got a real hard head lmao,raised bed might be great for cooler weathers warming the soil,but aint good for shit when the heat is on,i cant keep that fine line of moisture in the beds to maintain just moist ,instead it more like water right then and striaght threw,it goes.
by the way got out and collected some fresh deer shit,got about 30 lbs of wheat bran,need to get some molasses,and a few other things,how much kamino and media pro would you add to that much wheat bran?

Ecompost · Jun 19, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
well im thinking about these totes and pots i got in back of house,they are about 18in deep,so i was thinking about 6in in the bottom of pots and totes of soil,then add about 2inchs of course sand,then top all off with soil,reason for this is to stop water and feed from going straight threw and hold up on the sand to pressure makes it go threw and there for forcing water to sides and watering the pots more even if you dig,im going to also set up some arrangment for keeping side of them as you mentioned to keep them cool in direct sunlight,topped off with mulch of even maybe a cover of sort ,were i can still get into water them,sun just bakes the side of containers,i water a little then have to come back and get a good watering in once the sides have absorded enough to hold it ,down in the big garden my topsoil layer is only about 6in deep and i hit sediment,so i was thinking there of taking 4ft at a time and pulling topsoil off and to the side,putting in a layer of course sand,replacing top soil,after all done,building a frame around the whole damn thing and then coming in with some real good topsoil to level it out,starting over again,ya,lol,living on a rock has disadvantages for sure,but i will getrdone if you dig,im almost to the point of giving up,but i got a real hard head lmao,raised bed might be great for cooler weathers warming the soil,but aint good for shit when the heat is on,i cant keep that fine line of moisture in the beds to maintain just moist ,instead it more like water right then and striaght threw,it goes.
by the way got out and collected some fresh deer shit,got about 30 lbs of wheat bran,need to get some molasses,and a few other things,how much kamino and media pro would you add to that much wheat bran?

I would run with about 50g /2oz watered in of BMP and 130ml of K+AMINO. Dont forget, cover and turn, lots to begin eg every 3 days for the first 2 weeks, then every 5 until you see the media darken.

If you are having problems holding water, use Bio Balance Media. You will need up to 6kg per year per hectare (2.4 acres) where you have high levels of sand. BBM is awesome at retaining water, it is a super good electron donor and as such it can grab passing water molecules where it wraps them up, like a swiss roll so making it harder for the water to leach away. It also boosts sands CEC and so makes it easier to retain nutrients as well. It can grab both Anion and cation based nutrients, so all the ones we need
Ask Alan to sort you out a bulk price mate, tell him what you are doing and say you spoke to me. I think it will be a good solution for this problem you have.
I hold 40 times more water because of BBM mate, this means I use less and also lose less, water and nutrients. It will also counter any acidification, hold more oxygen atoms and chelate vital metals from you bed rock and prevent compaction by stripping excess Cations from clays.

Lots of shop compost, growing media is low CEC and drains too quickly IMO, it wastes nutrients and water, but its designed for people who cant irrigate, dont understand electrical charge and nutrient retention, plus the key is to sell lots of nutrients right? Any shitty low CEC media can be boosted with the application of BBM and this can save; water, nutrients and labor.
BBM can also be used on heavy clays to prevent compaction and soil profile collapse at a rate of 2kg per year per hectare.

Adding BBM (up to 40 times more water) and Active Biology (which are 70% water) is the key to improving water retention and reducing labor and risk

oldskol4evr · Jun 19, 2018

cool i thought it was every day for first week,lol crap i didnt even think about the bbm,i did use it ,dont remember how much when i made the soil,thought it was a one time thing,i still got some too i think,i got to add compost to all of these totes and pots and planned on just dumping them in a pile and mixing it all up with equal layers of the soil and new compost,while i did that was gonna build some red ceder picket fencing and build boxs i could remove but decrative to fill with hay for heat and coolness,

kansabis · Jun 19, 2018

Great news everyone! I rooted cuts successfully for the first time,both cuts ended up being females and I'm currently trying to get a clone of the third and final female,ill post pics as soon as I can remember to take em but out of 8 beans,I'll have 3 females,2 hyper dragonberry and 1 hyperfighters,hopefully I will get em flipped here soon,also have the last 3 beans vegging,2 hyperfighters and a dragonberry

GT21 · Jun 20, 2018

@incogneato thats bluedream c99

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

Current cuts waiting to root 4x hyperfigjter #2s and 2x dragonberry#3s

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

Left to right back row dragonberry#3 and hyperfighter#2, front row is dragonberry number 1 and only cut from it so far.

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

2 hyperfighter#2 cuts in the back and the other 3 is hyperfighters 5 and 6 and dragonberry #5,#6 never popped for me :(

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

Full tent shots for the hell of it

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

PS the big ones in the back corners are males I just haven't called yet and their clones,the back left corner one is actually just sitting in a cup of water with no soil,just to see how long it will live like that.

oldskol4evr · Jun 20, 2018

kansabis said:
2 hyperfighter#2 cuts in the back and the other 3 is hyperfighters 5 and 6 and dragonberry #5,#6 never popped for me :(

brocille seems to like the company

oldskol4evr · Jun 20, 2018

kansabis said:
PS the big ones in the back corners are males I just haven't called yet and their clones,the back left corner one is actually just sitting in a cup of water with no soil,just to see how long it will live like that.

i was gonna question that hungry bastard lmao

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
brocille seems to like the company

That's actually kale but close enough lol

kansabis · Jun 20, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
i was gonna question that hungry bastard lmao

Yeah I haven't watered either of the males or their clones in awhile,debating on keeping them to test some outdoor guerilla spots...

Ecompost · Jun 21, 2018

oldskol4evr said:
cool i thought it was every day for first week,lol crap i didnt even think about the bbm,i did use it ,dont remember how much when i made the soil,thought it was a one time thing,i still got some too i think,i got to add compost to all of these totes and pots and planned on just dumping them in a pile and mixing it all up with equal layers of the soil and new compost,while i did that was gonna build some red ceder picket fencing and build boxs i could remove but decrative to fill with hay for heat and coolness,

yeah BBM is high pH so counters acidification, but it does it without adding excess Cations to the soil. Too many cations means compaction, means no oxygen, means less water infiltration, means hard work

Ecompost · Jun 21, 2018

kansabis said:
Great news everyone! I rooted cuts successfully for the first time,both cuts ended up being females and I'm currently trying to get a clone of the third and final female,ill post pics as soon as I can remember to take em but out of 8 beans,I'll have 3 females,2 hyper dragonberry and 1 hyperfighters,hopefully I will get em flipped here soon,also have the last 3 beans vegging,2 hyperfighters and a dragonberry

good on you :-)

Reno 911!!!

Reno 911!!!

oldskol4evr

Ecompost

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kansabis

GT21

I like soup

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Reno 911!!!

Reno 911!!!

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Ecompost

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Ecompost

oldskol4evr

Ecompost

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kansabis

GT21

I like soup

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