Rockwool to Hydro DWC - time to move?

  • Thread starter ispy
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Staff
Supporter
25,965
638
Hey
some info for others too
This is a Strawberry Kush Feminized with about 4-5 weeks left (I think).
PPMs are on average 700.
Water replaced last week
I generally use about 4 teaspoons of Cal-Mag when feeding/water replacement, and equal parts of General Hydroponics Flora series trio. PH is always 5-6.
Thanks

@Aqua Man, maybe you have an opinion as well?
Sounds good to me. I usua change my water once i have added back the volume that the system holds. That ensures nutrient ratios stay within the lines
 
I

ispy

167
43
What are your ratios when mixing? Generally its a lack of N anytime I see yellow leafs. At this point you should be cutting back on the calmag. Id run about 80ppms of calmag, 250ppms of micro, and 200ppms of bloom. Given u are using trio.

Perhaps wait on a second opinion also. Im not the best at diagnosing issues. I just like keeping my N value above 150ppms.
I think I misread this. I thought you had meant go up on N which is in CalMag and Bloom no? I am getting a bit worried about this plant now. Someone convinced me to get a new PH monitor so I got an Apera, calibrated and man I was apparently way off. Now I am keeping it as close to 5.8 as possible. Even still it is not doing any better and is worse. I wish it'd finish but best I can tell all tricomes are still clear. Almost ashamed to even post a pic. Someone else also told me I need PPMs around 1k. I get people have different opinions. I just want it to finish.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
I think I misread this. I thought you had meant go up on N which is in CalMag and Bloom no? I am getting a bit worried about this plant now. Someone convinced me to get a new PH monitor so I got an Apera, calibrated and man I was apparently way off. Now I am keeping it as close to 5.8 as possible. Even still it is not doing any better and is worse. I wish it'd finish but best I can tell all tricomes are still clear. Almost ashamed to even post a pic. Someone else also told me I need PPMs around 1k. I get people have different opinions. I just want it to finish.
So go down on calmag and supplement it with bloom as the stretch stops and the buds need to bulk.

Im assuming lack of N made ur leafs crispy. I use those aquarium strips for testing Nitrate. I just make sure the strip is always red, which is high in N. I brought out the purple in my last grow by running 200ppms of nitrate instead of my usual 100 to 150.

You need to get testing equipment and not rely on us as much. Im sure i gave i that info but had I listened to every one i would be adding all kinds if shit to my pot.

It just takes time to read whats going on. If u get issues, back the light off until you figure it out. No need to make plants grow fast if they are unhealthy.

I too hate posting pics of my failures but I do it anyways. My first post compared go my last grow id wild, only took me 1.5 years to grow perfect weed. The shit I have now, Mimosa Evo. . well all the issues ive had helped in the end. .just be patient and keep trying.
 
I

ispy

167
43
So go down on calmag and supplement it with bloom as the stretch stops and the buds need to bulk.

Im assuming lack of N made ur leafs crispy. I use those aquarium strips for testing Nitrate. I just make sure the strip is always red, which is high in N. I brought out the purple in my last grow by running 200ppms of nitrate instead of my usual 100 to 150.

You need to get testing equipment and not rely on us as much. Im sure i gave i that info but had I listened to every one i would be adding all kinds if shit to my pot.

It just takes time to read whats going on. If u get issues, back the light off until you figure it out. No need to make plants grow fast if they are unhealthy.

I too hate posting pics of my failures but I do it anyways. My first post compared go my last grow id wild, only took me 1.5 years to grow perfect weed. The shit I have now, Mimosa Evo. . well all the issues ive had helped in the end. .just be patient and keep trying.
Thanks. I meant to find those strips and I forgot. So just the nitrate strips? Any others? I will back light off too - wondered about that. Someone else said they did not think it is an issue but turn it down or go less than 12hrs/day?
I do admit I have slacked off lately - been dealing with some major back issues that makes it hard to do just about anything but self medicate and sleep. 2 months of chiro and I am back. And to think I thought those guys were quacks. My favorite kind of doctor now. You actually see results.

and yes leafs are getting very crispy. tips are yellow/brown among other things
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
Thanks. I meant to find those strips and I forgot. So just the nitrate strips? Any others? I will back light off too - wondered about that. Someone else said they did not think it is an issue but turn it down or go less than 12hrs/day?
I do admit I have slacked off lately - been dealing with some major back issues that makes it hard to do just about anything but self medicate and sleep. 2 months of chiro and I am back. And to think I thought those guys were quacks. My favorite kind of doctor now. You actually see results.

and yes leafs are getting very crispy. tips are yellow/brown among other things
I am going to get these strips from now on because they separate hardness, alkalinity and carbonate, and it has nitrate and nitrite. You wont need the ph or chlorine function they have, yet they are still amazing for the cost. I use one strip every 2 or 3 days.

I use Athens balance now which adds potassium and it use it as ph up. It provides silica and P so add around 100ppms of it, then ph down to 5.5 . So I basically dont use the flora grow blend cause im already getting the K from the balance.

The calmag adds N I rotate which I add every 3 days, ever. Ppms drop after top off and either micro or calmag will be needed every 3 days minimum. When hardness starts climbing after stretch, I switch to only micro and increase the bloom booster. I rotate the bloom and bloom booster but start with both. Those I add at about half the frequency of micro, so about every 4 to 6 days.

As for high ppms, calcium toxicity and potassium toxicity are what you want to avoid. These strips help do that. The phosphorus strips is just to make sure you have it during flower, its hard to get excess phosphorus damage.

Hope this helps man. Just remember, high ppms are fine as long as you keep the 4 main ones under 200ppms each, N,P,K and calcium.

I gave my seedlings almost 500ppms and they loved it. Just make sure you calibrate your ph meter regardless of the brand. I check my meter with calibration solution every 3 days max. I end up calibrating it about once a week.
 
Screenshot 20221102 161241
Screenshot 20221102 154818
Last edited:
I

ispy

167
43
@Cashme, Amazon lost my order so I went and bought another kind. Right strip is my plant in need. Left is next one up who seems to be fine. I did notice PH seems to really be climbing lately. It looks to be close to 8 right now!
1667763882366
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
@Cashme, Amazon lost my order so I went and bought another kind. Right strip is my plant in need. Left is next one up who seems to be fine. I did notice PH seems to really be climbing lately. It looks to be close to 8 right now!
View attachment 1300059
Can u post the lable now so I can see what those stand for? Id say nitrate nitrite, hardness, chlorine, alkalinity and ph. If that's the case and your having issues up top id also need to see your roots. How do they look and feel? What is that over 200ppms of hardness? And over 200ppms of Nitrate? The nitrate is fine, but i worry about your K ratio, if your running high calcium levels, lots of ph UP, and your putting in too much potassium, your leafs will be very hard to diagnose properly. Id say if your ppms are over 1000, and climbing, and ur constantly adding ph up. . your adding way to much calmag, and way to much grow blend.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
I also dont know what your getting your alkalinity from, what is your water source, im jealous. I thought u was using RO.
 
I

ispy

167
43
Can u post the lable now so I can see what those stand for? Id say nitrate nitrite, hardness, chlorine, alkalinity and ph. If that's the case and your having issues up top id also need to see your roots. How do they look and feel? What is that over 200ppms of hardness? And over 200ppms of Nitrate? The nitrate is fine, but i worry about your K ratio, if your running high calcium levels, lots of ph UP, and your putting in too much potassium, your leafs will be very hard to diagnose properly. Id say if your ppms are over 1000, and climbing, and ur constantly adding ph up. . your adding way to much calmag, and way to much grow blend.
I have only added ph UP a few times when I inadvertently added too much ph DOWN. ph is going up. Roots are yellowish looking but they have been that way for a long time. I have notice no change I can detect but it may just be me seeing them over and over. ph right now is 7.7

1667769606439
1667769627859
1667769642460
 
I

ispy

167
43
Here is one from my RO that I am fixing to replace the water with. We do have pretty hard water here. just fyi. i calibrated my ph/ppm probe to ensure it is not off as well
1667770758234
 
Last edited:
I

ispy

167
43
@Cashmeh ,
I meant to post this to. Truly a sad sight after everything. I fear my ability to get it to recover.

1667772367178
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
So let me get strait to the point, that is an obvious nitrogen deficiency. I also am confident I have figured out how you have gotten it, but you wont like the remedy for fixing this. Let me tell you why and why first. .

Roots can be yellow, even red, they cannot be brown or black or have a slime. Roots get tinted from high ppms. When there are root uptake issues from root rot, you will have symptoms of multiple deficiencies, not just one like you currently have. Root rot confuses the uptake of all nutrients, so you will show mag deff, calcium tox, potassium deff, nitrogen tox, and yea, its endless. Diagnosing root rot without seeing the roots is quite challenging, most of the time you will have 2 guys arguing over what you should do ;)

While your strips indicate high ppm levels for nitrate, I can assure you they dont always, specifically before res change or top offs. I think your on top of your game with all nutrients, except micro. Your plant has lived this long and only has 1 deficiency. So basically what im saying, is do everything your doing, all over again, the same exact thing. But as your plant grows and grows, in my experience, the most used nutrient through the grow is Nitrogen. Being your in DWC with around 4 gallon capacity, I would say that with a plant that size, you should be adding micro every single day. I bet it uses all the nitrogen that day just to sustain the new growth. Its a pretty good looking plant for your first hydro grow if were being honest. Ive seen some dandies on here so trust me, your doing better than 99% of new hydro growers STILL.
The bud structure looks perfect man, no foxtailing, no large 3 finger leafs, nice and tight buds look like Christmas trees. I bet you will get more weight off that than you think. I got double what I thought on my last plant. It was an indica like yours, nice fat leafs.
So what I was suggesting you wont like to do is be in there more frequently and use those test strips. Id say your not at toxicity on anything. If you were nitrogen toxicity those leafs would be turning purple right now and your stems would be bright red all the way around. If you were calcium toxicity you would have rust spots, same with mag deficiency. Its not phosphate deff or tox, and its not Potassium deff or tox. Again, I think your going to be quite happy with how potent it is. But nows when it will be frosting over more than usual. Keep doing what your doing but check that res every 12hrs with those strips until you get a feel for how fast its uptaking N.
I was using 1 plant in 30 gallons, The plant used HALF of my N, going from 200ppms down to under 100ppms, in 2 days. . . Thats alot of Nitrogen in my eyes. . anyways, I think your bumming for no reason honestly. I mean sure you wont win the photo contest on your first grow, but im positive you will pull more weight than most do.
Id clip those fan leafs off too, if they are not photosynthesizing propperly, and they are covering mulitiple nodes, pitch them. They are stopping airmovement and yea. Now the only thing is I dont like to stress the plants during flower, and hacking at it sure will. One or 2 leafs and ur fine, but I would only take off like 4 leafs a day or so, keep it at a minimum. Id start at the top and work your way down that way your exposing more lower growth nodes to light.
 
Last edited:
I

ispy

167
43
So let me get strait to the point, that is an obvious nitrogen deficiency. I also am confident I have figured out how you have gotten it, but you wont like the remedy for fixing this. Let me tell you why and why first. .

Roots can be yellow, even red, they cannot be brown or black or have a slime. Roots get tinted from high ppms. When there are root uptake issues from root rot, you will have symptoms of multiple deficiencies, not just one like you currently have. Root rot confuses the uptake of all nutrients, so you will show mag deff, calcium tox, potassium deff, nitrogen tox, and yea, its endless. Diagnosing root rot without seeing the roots is quite challenging, most of the time you will have 2 guys arguing over what you should do ;)

While your strips indicate high ppm levels for nitrate, I can assure you they dont always, specifically before res change or top offs. I think your on top of your game with all nutrients, except micro. Your plant has lived this long and only has 1 deficiency. So basically what im saying, is do everything your doing, all over again, the same exact thing. But as your plant grows and grows, in my experience, the most used nutrient through the grow is Nitrogen. Being your in DWC with around 4 gallon capacity, I would say that with a plant that size, you should be adding micro every single day. I bet it uses all the nitrogen that day just to sustain the new growth. Its a pretty good looking plant for your first hydro grow if were being honest. Ive seen some dandies on here so trust me, your doing better than 99% of new hydro growers STILL.
The bud structure looks perfect man, no foxtailing, no large 3 finger leafs, nice and tight buds look like Christmas trees. I bet you will get more weight off that than you think. I got double what I thought on my last plant. It was an indica like yours, nice fat leafs.
So what I was suggesting you wont like to do is be in there more frequently and use those test strips. Id say your not at toxicity on anything. If you were nitrogen toxicity those leafs would be turning purple right now and your stems would be bright red all the way around. If you were calcium toxicity you would have rust spots, same with mag deficiency. Its not phosphate deff or tox, and its not Potassium deff or tox. Again, I think your going to be quite happy with how potent it is. But nows when it will be frosting over more than usual. Keep doing what your doing but check that res every 12hrs with those strips until you get a feel for how fast its uptaking N.
I was using 1 plant in 30 gallons, The plant used HALF of my N, going from 200ppms down to under 100ppms, in 2 days. . . Thats alot of Nitrogen in my eyes. . anyways, I think your bumming for no reason honestly. I mean sure you wont win the photo contest on your first grow, but im positive you will pull more weight than most do.
Id clip those fan leafs off too, if they are not photosynthesizing propperly, and they are covering mulitiple nodes, pitch them. They are stopping airmovement and yea. Now the only thing is I dont like to stress the plants during flower, and hacking at it sure will. One or 2 leafs and ur fine, but I would only take off like 4 leafs a day or so, keep it at a minimum. Id start at the top and work your way down that way your exposing more lower growth nodes to light.
Thanks for the encouraging words. I was at a loss. Probably should have raised the flag sooner but... I will work on this tomorrow. One thing I have noticed is my buds are super tight and hard which I think I read was good. Not mushy at all. I did notice a few leaves - fan I think, that have turned kinda red. Are those to worry about? I can send pics tomorrow.
thanks again
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
Thanks for the encouraging words. I was at a loss. Probably should have raised the flag sooner but... I will work on this tomorrow. One thing I have noticed is my buds are super tight and hard which I think I read was good. Not mushy at all. I did notice a few leaves - fan I think, that have turned kinda red. Are those to worry about? I can send pics tomorrow.
thanks again
Bro, those buds are gonna be lit I already know. If the fan leaf stem is red on top its light burn, if the stem is red on bottom its nutrient burn, which is fine as long as the stalk isnt getting red and purple, if it is your prolly way to high in N and should go back down in ppms. I wouldnt go above 200ppms honestly, and that strip is pretty red. . id say your well over that when you do the res change, which is fine. I forgot to mention I think your leafs look heavy due to your ph being so high. I keep mine at 5.5, but your having some good results with higher ph, unless its making your N unavailable, but id assume it would do it with other nutrients, and its mainly your old growth not your new growth so you might be fine. I know I break the norms on all aspects and can still get the same results in the end.
I still havnt figured out whats giving you your alkalinity. Are you using silica or another additive? Your ph must be climbing fast, but idk if those strips were from a new bucket, or an old one. You had a meter that you can calibrate right with calibration solution? Regardless, dont put a ton of thought into it cause regardless what those fan leafs look like at the end of the grow, you want your buds to at least look this good always. So even if you think your going forward in the way your fan leafs look, you dont want that fix to create an issue elsewhere, especially in bud density. I will say, I assume once you get into sativas, you lose density? I do at least. If your leafs are turning red, thats genetic and its when the plants stop uptaking phosphate at the end of its life.
So i did some more studying, and it could be mg def, but i doubt it. Guess it depends how often you add calmag, i mean that was my original guess based upon strip data.
Scratch that first comment earlier lol, im not as confident as I was. Almost there, lets see those closeups. Lets see old growth with issue and new growth, upper and lower area of plant so I can see the difference between lots of light and not alot of light. Im thinking theres no rust or crispy edges right? Have you had one completely fall of or die, pic?
 
I

ispy

167
43
Bro, those buds are gonna be lit I already know. If the fan leaf stem is red on top its light burn, if the stem is red on bottom its nutrient burn, which is fine as long as the stalk isnt getting red and purple, if it is your prolly way to high in N and should go back down in ppms. I wouldnt go above 200ppms honestly, and that strip is pretty red. . id say your well over that when you do the res change, which is fine. I forgot to mention I think your leafs look heavy due to your ph being so high. I keep mine at 5.5, but your having some good results with higher ph, unless its making your N unavailable, but id assume it would do it with other nutrients, and its mainly your old growth not your new growth so you might be fine. I know I break the norms on all aspects and can still get the same results in the end.
I still havnt figured out whats giving you your alkalinity. Are you using silica or another additive? Your ph must be climbing fast, but idk if those strips were from a new bucket, or an old one. You had a meter that you can calibrate right with calibration solution? Regardless, dont put a ton of thought into it cause regardless what those fan leafs look like at the end of the grow, you want your buds to at least look this good always. So even if you think your going forward in the way your fan leafs look, you dont want that fix to create an issue elsewhere, especially in bud density. I will say, I assume once you get into sativas, you lose density? I do at least. If your leafs are turning red, thats genetic and its when the plants stop uptaking phosphate at the end of its life.
So i did some more studying, and it could be mg def, but i doubt it. Guess it depends how often you add calmag, i mean that was my original guess based upon strip data.
Scratch that first comment earlier lol, im not as confident as I was. Almost there, lets see those closeups. Lets see old growth with issue and new growth, upper and lower area of plant so I can see the difference between lots of light and not alot of light. Im thinking theres no rust or crispy edges right? Have you had one completely fall of or die, pic?
There are some crispy edges. Nothing has died. Branches on lower seem to be too weak to hold some of the big buds/clusters. Some have bent over - I think getting it in and out of closet since it is too wide for the door. Some likened it to super cropping. I hope these give you better visual.

No silica or any other additive. Just RO and nutrients.

IMG 6117
IMG 6118
IMG 6119
IMG 6120
IMG 6121
IMG 6122
IMG 6123
IMG 6124
 
IMG 6125
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
Im going back to the hardness/nutrient lockout. You want it to be about 100ppms total, you can go up to 150, but at this stage id say 100 or less. Your over 300-400 easy. So whenever this problem started is when you should have been lowering the calmag. I would make up a new batch. Ppm to 100 with calmag, ppm to 300 with micro, ppm to 400 with grow, ppm to 800 with bloom. I doubt that 800ppms are too high, but it could be. Then you check it in 12hrs with the strip, always remember how much in ppms your adding when you ph up with calcium carbonate. I know your not using it much, but I stopped using the Calmag from flora trio and started using the calmag from athena. It has less calcium. I also use athenas balance instead of ph up, it uses potassium silicate and actually adds K. It makes my PH stay pretty stable, and I dont really have to use the grow bottle as much either. I stopped using ph up, the calcium carbonate version.
I think the issue is you went from needing low amounts of calmag, to heaps, now your back down to no calmag barely, just substitute more micro is what I do. I have yet to see an issue with high N ppms during late flower, its how I brought my purple out during fade.
Your buds are showing purple, so I dont think its lack of N. IF it was lack of N you would have leafs fallen off and cripsy. Your lower growth wouldnt have rust spots.
So new plan, do what you do normally, just when it stops the stretch, keep your hardness on those strips under 150ppms.
the buds are also finishing, your not going to make it foxtail or stress by pulling off those bad leafs. IF they are big, and facing inwards, and are damaged more than 50%, pull them and let them lower buds finish up. Your plant will look quite well with some good defoliation. I wouldnt worry as much about stressing it out. Id worry about getting light down to the lower buds, and getting your hardness levels down.
I would also use some string and tie those buds up where they are even after you defoliate. I see one hanging down low that needs to be tied up in that last pic, its beautiful but it needs that heavy frost coating now.
Also I would partial harvest this bad boy. Those lower buds should stay in there at least 7 days with all the top buds out of the way. Id string them all up, wait a 8 days, cut the big ones, wait 7 days, cut them all. Id say your close to the finish line. My rule of thumb, you can always go 2 more weeks for the frost. now if the shit was ugly and revegging and foxtailing, on to the next batch. . but this is looking good bud.
 
Last edited:
I

ispy

167
43
Im going back to the hardness/nutrient lockout. You want it to be about 100ppms total, you can go up to 150, but at this stage id say 100 or less. Your over 300-400 easy. So whenever this problem started is when you should have been lowering the calmag. I would make up a new batch. Ppm to 100 with calmag, ppm to 300 with micro, ppm to 400 with grow, ppm to 800 with bloom. I doubt that 800ppms are too high, but it could be. Then you check it in 12hrs with the strip, always remember how much in ppms your adding when you ph up with calcium carbonate. I know your not using it much, but I stopped using the Calmag from flora trio and started using the calmag from athena. It has less calcium. I also use athenas balance instead of ph up, it uses potassium silicate and actually adds K. It makes my PH stay pretty stable, and I dont really have to use the grow bottle as much either. I stopped using ph up, the calcium carbonate version.
I think the issue is you went from needing low amounts of calmag, to heaps, now your back down to no calmag barely, just substitute more micro is what I do. I have yet to see an issue with high N ppms during late flower, its how I brought my purple out during fade.
Your buds are showing purple, so I dont think its lack of N. IF it was lack of N you would have leafs fallen off and cripsy. Your lower growth wouldnt have rust spots.
So new plan, do what you do normally, just when it stops the stretch, keep your hardness on those strips under 150ppms.
the buds are also finishing, your not going to make it foxtail or stress by pulling off those bad leafs. IF they are big, and facing inwards, and are damaged more than 50%, pull them and let them lower buds finish up. Your plant will look quite well with some good defoliation. I wouldnt worry as much about stressing it out. Id worry about getting light down to the lower buds, and getting your hardness levels down.
I would also use some string and tie those buds up where they are even after you defoliate. I see one hanging down low that needs to be tied up in that last pic, its beautiful but it needs that heavy frost coating now.
Also I would partial harvest this bad boy. Those lower buds should stay in there at least 7 days with all the top buds out of the way. Id string them all up, wait a 8 days, cut the big ones, wait 7 days, cut them all. Id say your close to the finish line. My rule of thumb, you can always go 2 more weeks for the frost. now if the shit was ugly and revegging and foxtailing, on to the next batch. . but this is looking good bud.
Thanks,

I really appreciate the information.

Got a couple question for clarification - will ask more in a bit. how much off top?
1 - so wait 8 days and harvest big ones up top right?
2 - i will go get some distilled water to knock down the hardness. only option i know of here. as i mentioned our water here is super hard. gives me fits on shower heads and pool.

ph was 7.7. added tiny amount of ph down. ppms is only ~100. i did not add anything when i swapped water yesterday. was waiting to hear what you suggested. will work on that. current test strip below

1667861822121
 
Last edited:
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
So
Thanks,

I really appreciate the information.

Got a couple question for clarification - will ask more in a bit. how much off top?
1 - so wait 8 days and harvest big ones up top right?
2 - i will go get some distilled water to knock down the hardness. only option i know of here. as i mentioned our water here is super hard. gives me fits on shower heads and pool.

ph was 7.7. added tiny amount of ph down. ppms is only ~100. i did not add anything when i swapped water yesterday. was waiting to hear what you suggested. will work on that. current test strip below

View attachment 1300508
So do you have an RO kit or have you been using store ro water? Have you used any of your tap water thus far? I would avoid it for now for sure, once you can grow great in RO, then you can figure out how to save money and use tap. Im sure I mentioned it, but my kit was 50 bucks, its been almost a year and a half that ive been using it. PPMs are 25 in my 55gallon tote. I need new filters but ill wait till its at 50ppms.
So that strip is what 24hrs later or a little over? If I scroll up I can use that other strip that shows high nitrates for a 24hr mark right? It shows your hardness is practically gone, and your nitrate levels have been used and are low again. PH is staying low, id also need to know your ppms. So to figure out your actual ppms you always top off with water. IM sure its drinking alot. Never check ppms when the res is low, and never check strip data. It all all changes once you top off with water, even if its a gallon of RO a day, which is where your prolly at. Once you get to that point, check the strip and ppms. If this is it, and your at 100ppms right now. Id top off with calmag strait into the pot, mix it, wait until it climbs like 80ppms, should put you a little over 100, that will also increase your nitrate levels. Now you should be at about 180 ppms. Micro up to 350ppms, grow to 420ppm, bloom to 700ppms.
So you have over a week left on them top buds, I say 8 days, but its just so have time to re-evaluate it. I would get multiple opinions other than mine on when you should harvest the top buds if your in a rush. I dont see it happening soon is all, they are pretty though. Again light pen down below is what id worry about. All damaged fan leafs should be gone by the time you partial harvest, and alot of the small inwards ones down below. It all depends how easy it is and how much time you have to defoliate. I dont sometimes and all is well, just tend to be a bit fluffier down low if you dont partial harvest and defoliate.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom