Seamaiden said:

I found that imidacloprid was not very effective at dealing the death blow when I had RAs. If I had something like Capulator's beneficials to try first, I would have in a heartbeat. I cannot say whether or not they work, but it makes sense to me given my own experience.

I had two concurrent grows going on the first time I got them, both outdoors. One was my all-organic SFW soil grow (soil food web), the other was perlite hempy tubs using chemical salts. The perlite hempy tubs were the first to become infected, but I thought it was just some kind of Super Fungus Gnat and didn't treat. The second infection was my indoor coir grow, and it took rock solid genetics going hermie on me to convince me I had a real and serious problem. By then it was too late for any good, effective treatment, but I found that Spectracide with Triazicide, used as a long-term root drench (flooded my tables for several hours each time) did the trick. Others have found it doesn't do a thing for them.

In any event, part of my point was that my organic soil ladies never experienced a single hiccup. Not a one. So, my guess is/was that the SFW of life helped prevent strong establishment of a RA population. That means that I think that Capulator's beneficials would be the first, not last, thing I would try. I would prefer those to the Spectracide I ended up using.

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Seamaiden said:

The only other treatment I've read about, and shared the paper (which a grape grower says isn't as effective as reported in said paper) is a 5min dunk in 125*F water. The folks who've written back to report on it say it kills cannabis, even well rooted. I've read of one person who used 120*F water and it was effective without killing his cannabis.

Yes, you will likely kill beneficials if you go the chemistry route. I didn't have a scope when I was dealing with them, but got one as soon as I could, and now don't have them.

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Seamaiden said:

In any event, part of my point was that my organic soil ladies never experienced a single hiccup. Not a one. So, my guess is/was that the SFW of life helped prevent strong establishment of a RA population.

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Chobble said:

Alright, Im pretty sure I have Root Aphids (Grape phylloxera). They're native to my region and prefer soil types like those I work in at two organic gardens in the county. Its also very possible that a winged variety (Thought to be sterile) have infested my indoor Rooting tray (That's all I know for sure). The largest ones, Im assuming the females have a pear shaped body with a red butt and brown/grey front. This meets the description of root aphids (I've never dealt with them before, thus my post). There are also what look to be babies crawling around that are a lighter green color.

Now a note about the winged variety, I had a type of fruit fly, that I'm now realizing may not be a fruit fly. It started in the house with some rotting fruit and the trash then that got cleaned up and tossed in the trash can, Well my air intake is near the trash can.... Needless to say I saw one of those exact flys that I have been fighting a battle with living on my flowering plants, I've been watching them multiply though and its not in the same manor as these mites/Aphids but none the less I saw one of these winged variety's climbing through my riot plug.

Im on a very strict budget and could really use some advise on how to counter these guys. Any clones with a visible infestation have been tossed, The trays are all being washed now and Im going to change clothes and go back in to inspect the roots of my other plants.

Chobble

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growuphydro said:

We do medical and the for sure cure was permethrin. The ant killer squirt bottle. Over population causes a conversion of female to males and they fly. The permethrin seems to have a 14-21 day hold. Just spray the over-populated area without over saturation. a mist over the rest. As they rise out of the soil the get contact with the spray. They mostly collect around the dripper. A light spray after at every 14 days, really helps. We do botaniquard as a secondary.

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growuphydro said:

I really appreciate ur honestly. Ur are totally right. It is nor an organic solution. Unfortunately roots aphids can kill ur crop. They fly and re-infest. The long term effects of continually attempting to control or the half fast treating of a pest that is resistant and hard to kill if far worse. Luckly they have live young. a knock down in veg is crucial. Remember it is used to treat head lice too. Drenching, say neem, can work. At the risk of misuse, it can kill a plant. I also mentioned Botaniquard. Unfortunately it does not work under high populations. Because of the application to the top of the soil (mist) and a dripper stake allows way less contact with it. We dug out the area with the infestion around the dripper. Re inserted new perlite. Two mist sprayings allow the botaniguard to work. I should have stated that every 14 days only for knock down for botaniguard. Botaniguard works for thrip, aphids and fungus gnats. Love botaniguard in controlled conditions only. Again, appreciate ur honestly. Thank u for clarifiying. I meant to offense.

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