Root Rot Prevention Product Application Rates For The UC

  • Thread starter desertsquirrel
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
click80

click80

747
63
how are you watering?

thanks for responding DS. I guess that was directed at me...

anyway...I am watering once every 24 hours by flooding the tray...Maybe let them go longer? At 24 hours all the cubes are barely damp to the touch except for 8 of them. I was just scared to wait any longer to flood.

I just have the cubes sitting in the hydroton. My plan today is to put the plants into pots with hydroton and that way I can run a flood but right before I will pull those 8 out and only flood the ones that need it.

Should I go even longer and wait til they get to that TWPoint? I guess that is the point right before they are going to wilt?

I added some sm90 to the nutes as a prophylactic measure. I am sure the potential risk for root rot to set in is rising the longer they stay stalled. The plants are still green and looking good, no curling, yellowing etc...

<edit> Maybe water by hand until they get going again? I just went in and looked at them...roots are definitely stalled. My other table is doing fine. They came from same batch of clones. I think I pushed these first ones too fast. Either way....maybe since I am putting them in pots I will water by hand and maybe just with RO water, H2O2, and some Hormex? Just until I got new roots showing and then go back to regular nutes?

Its worse than I thought, well getting worse quick...just looked at rez, something brown and slimy is developing, not on pump or hose yet, just little floatys...

I really need this grow to go right. I am finally caught up on bills and this grow is/was going to buy me a UC system. I really need to get my shit together.

So I have read this thread thru a few more times. I see different people have used different combos. I kinda understand the math but would like to make sure about what finally worked.

What would ya'll recommend? I am going to do what i said above and pull the plants and put them in pots...thats only so i can water individually if necessary. I have to do something now, my hydrostore will not reopen till tuesday and it's snowing so it might be later in week even...

I have a full bottle of H2O2 29%, Zone and Bleach. I don't know which application rates worked best for you guys though.

I was thinking change res, go with H2O2 @5ml (if that is what you guys use? Higher?) and no nutes since the plants are healthy just to go easy on the roots in case the Peroxide makes them tender? Then I guess just keep an eye on them and if they get better I can use the H2O2 and start working the Zone in?
I can foliar feed with Spray-n-gro and Bills if needed but the plants are very healthy for the moment and I would guess no nutes would be safer?

Sorry for the long rambling post, like I said I want UC bad and i really need to keep this grow straight. <edit>
 
Dr.Pepper

Dr.Pepper

233
43
great info in this thread! Thnx all who posted their success recipe's

i am was on the path to using Zone in my AeroFlo2 as well as H202, but now i'm more interested in UCRoots!

damn, i'm going to have to mail order it most likely. anyone in Canada have a source?
 
Golfpuck

Golfpuck

4
1
Cleaning a UC after harvest

Not sure if this is the correct thread but a clean system is a must for good roots so here it goes:

DS:

First off, you crush it. Absolutely crush it. I am running a couple of UC rooms in a legal state with 16 buckets, 54" on center, 8000w flat, 9000w vert, 6 ton AC, CO2, huey, dewey,etc. A replica of Jacks early UC run. How are you cleaning your systems after a run? Are you completely breaking the system down and cleaning every part or do you keep system together and run a solution through (physan or h202). Do you buy new air stones for every run?

Thank you for all of your hard work and excellent intel on the UC. Really curious of your process btwn runs.

GP.
 
click80

click80

747
63
here is a pic of how my roots look.... I am at day 12 of flower. When I started they had the beginning of root rot. One table I threw away, they had no roots coming out the bottom and after seeing these I could not just muddle through with shit roots.

this is with Zone at 1 ml/gallon and H2O2 5ml/gallon at/before rez change...

and watering the right way...thanks DS for being patient and everyone else I might have borrowed ideas from on this thread.

Never had roots like this. It took them a little to recover but recover they did and this is actually only about two to three days of them being out the bottom of pot.
0221022204.jpg
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
Not sure if this is the correct thread but a clean system is a must for good roots so here it goes:

DS:

First off, you crush it. Absolutely crush it. I am running a couple of UC rooms in a legal state with 16 buckets, 54" on center, 8000w flat, 9000w vert, 6 ton AC, CO2, huey, dewey,etc. A replica of Jacks early UC run. How are you cleaning your systems after a run? Are you completely breaking the system down and cleaning every part or do you keep system together and run a solution through (physan or h202). Do you buy new air stones for every run?

Thank you for all of your hard work and excellent intel on the UC. Really curious of your process btwn runs.

GP.

run the system full of bleach and then change it out a few times.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
83
thanks for responding DS. I guess that was directed at me...

anyway...I am watering once every 24 hours by flooding the tray...Maybe let them go longer? At 24 hours all the cubes are barely damp to the touch except for 8 of them. I was just scared to wait any longer to flood.

I just have the cubes sitting in the hydroton. My plan today is to put the plants into pots with hydroton and that way I can run a flood but right before I will pull those 8 out and only flood the ones that need it.

Should I go even longer and wait til they get to that TWPoint? I guess that is the point right before they are going to wilt?

I added some sm90 to the nutes as a prophylactic measure. I am sure the potential risk for root rot to set in is rising the longer they stay stalled. The plants are still green and looking good, no curling, yellowing etc...

<edit> Maybe water by hand until they get going again? I just went in and looked at them...roots are definitely stalled. My other table is doing fine. They came from same batch of clones. I think I pushed these first ones too fast. Either way....maybe since I am putting them in pots I will water by hand and maybe just with RO water, H2O2, and some Hormex? Just until I got new roots showing and then go back to regular nutes?

Its worse than I thought, well getting worse quick...just looked at rez, something brown and slimy is developing, not on pump or hose yet, just little floatys...

I really need this grow to go right. I am finally caught up on bills and this grow is/was going to buy me a UC system. I really need to get my shit together.

So I have read this thread thru a few more times. I see different people have used different combos. I kinda understand the math but would like to make sure about what finally worked.

What would ya'll recommend? I am going to do what i said above and pull the plants and put them in pots...thats only so i can water individually if necessary. I have to do something now, my hydrostore will not reopen till tuesday and it's snowing so it might be later in week even...

I have a full bottle of H2O2 29%, Zone and Bleach. I don't know which application rates worked best for you guys though.

I was thinking change res, go with H2O2 @5ml (if that is what you guys use? Higher?) and no nutes since the plants are healthy just to go easy on the roots in case the Peroxide makes them tender? Then I guess just keep an eye on them and if they get better I can use the H2O2 and start working the Zone in?
I can foliar feed with Spray-n-gro and Bills if needed but the plants are very healthy for the moment and I would guess no nutes would be safer?

Sorry for the long rambling post, like I said I want UC bad and i really need to keep this grow straight. <edit>

once a day is too often to flood a tray unless you see the TWP. TWP is not before they wilt, it is actual wilt.

are you not lining your 4X4 trays with cube trays?
 
click80

click80

747
63
once a day is too often to flood a tray unless you see the TWP. TWP is not before they wilt, it is actual wilt.

are you not lining your 4X4 trays with cube trays?

No, the local store did not have ones sturdy enough. I will get some before the next table goes in.

Even if I had enough of the cube trays I didn't know if you were just vegging in the flood tables with the cube trays inside, so I was not sure if I could just use the cube trays, cover the table with plastic and then put the RW cubes in on top of the cube trays alone. I thought I had read somewhere you were just vegging in that setup.

Regardless of all that since these are in hydroton, I am doing much better, way better. I can def say I feel a lot better about when to water. Don't know how I kept from losing more up until now.

I will play around with letting them go a little longer each time. I didn't feel safe waiting until every single plant showed TWP. I am thinking letting it go until about 1/2 to 2/3 of the plants show TWP.

I think that using RW in Hydroton is a little problematic as the RW retains moisture much longer than Hydroton. I should ideally be in slabs but have always been a little scared of PH probs with them.

Thanks for your help, am on right track now. I need to stop posting in this thread so I will keep postings to "Rooting in RW" unless I find a more appropriate one.

thanks again.

EDIT// Just did about three hours of reading up on Pythium and organisms that cause root rot in general. Seems like everyone and their brother would like to know how to control it in hydro settings. Mainly it is prevention. I have no idea why I have not had more trouble with it in the past. I know I have had it, my roots never were all that great. I can only guess that in my location the spore count is lower at certain times of the year, and also lower in general because this area is really dry and arid most of the year. I found a lot of good stuff on something called Rootshield and also Phosphonate Fungicides, but mainly (again) as prevention. //EDIT
 
click80

click80

747
63
When I go back to DWC I 'm thinking of using a product called RootShield as an inoculate. A little pricey but if it can prevent and/or stop root rot then it may be worth it. They even do tissue sampling but of course we grow the evil plant.
http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/shared/rootshield.pdf
http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/rootshield-wp.php

Thinking of ordering this also...I wonder if this Trichoderma Harzanium strain is what is in Aquashield....

so many products......sigh
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom