Schwer
Supporter
- 566
- 143
I’d vote nay on the foliage spray idea. Change 1 thing at a time, watch what happens. Too many variables changing at the same time makes it harder to tell what’s doing what. Also easier to over-do it and dose more than you intend.Day 50 - 7 days post-flip
That nice, even canopy I'd been working on is starting to look more like a topographical map of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Hopefully we can get through stretch without it looking like the Rockies.
I watered yesterday morning and included the mag sulfate but I haven't done anything with calcium just yet. I did a lot of reading on the subject yesterday and thoroughly confused myself, but its a new day, I'm feeling refreshed and am fully prepared to confuse myself all over again.
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This is a pic of my most impacted BBK when it comes to the apparent mag deficiency. Nearly every leaf is showing signs. What do you guys think about trying a foliar spray of RO and mag sulfate at lights out? Or would that be too much in conjunction with the mag sulfate in the water?
One of my favorite aspects of this process is watching the slow growth of my plants and seeing all the little changes up close. The same was true with my tomato and pepper plants. It really is a beautiful thing.
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How come your not using a cal/mag supplement? Everything I have read including a little card that came with my lights says use it, in moderation, I call every phone number on every bottle of everything I have ever used and have had some very interesting conversations with people that have put their brand aside and helped me tremendously. Cal/mag
Im going through the same thing right now. It's not horrible but it's definitely there. I ran half strength nutes last night and cut back on the water a tiny bit. Im in coco and I swore I was over-watering but after talking to other farmers I'm not so sure. I don't think there's any specific link between over-watering and mg uptake. I know it's a chronic issue for some growers. I did a foliar treatment (one time) and increased epsom salt a bit w no results I can see. I'll let u know when the symptoms are going away in case it can help u in any way. Great looking grow btwDay 50 - 7 days post-flip
That nice, even canopy I'd been working on is starting to look more like a topographical map of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Hopefully we can get through stretch without it looking like the Rockies.
I watered yesterday morning and included the mag sulfate but I haven't done anything with calcium just yet. I did a lot of reading on the subject yesterday and thoroughly confused myself, but its a new day, I'm feeling refreshed and am fully prepared to confuse myself all over again.
View attachment 1156182
View attachment 1156181
This is a pic of my most impacted BBK when it comes to the apparent mag deficiency. Nearly every leaf is showing signs. What do you guys think about trying a foliar spray of RO and mag sulfate at lights out? Or would that be too much in conjunction with the mag sulfate in the water?
One of my favorite aspects of this process is watching the slow growth of my plants and seeing all the little changes up close. The same was true with my tomato and pepper plants. It really is a beautiful thing.
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New growth looks well recovered. And I’m also not sure if your old deficient growth recovers or stays the same, but more experienced people should.
I made a gadget to combat this problem in my room. It's a 1 gal water container with the bottom cut off, a barb fitting secured through the lid, then suspended upside down. A 1/8" hose to a 1/4 turn liquid valve controls the flow at the handle stick. The 1/8" line slows down the flow so it's great for wetting the top surface. I put a picture, it's hard to see the wand but I fill this with my mix. I ziptied the end a few times to a stick for something to hold on to. When I re-build, I'll be making a much better version of this if I plan on hand watering still.Btw, watering really sucks, and by that I mean it takes what I consider a really long time for me to do properly. I've been watering every two-three days when the pots feel volley-ball light and the bottom 25-50% of the leaves are letting me know its time (and uh, maybe closer to 90% once or twice).
At the start of each watering the soil is repellent so I have to water the first quart on each pot VERY slowly or it just finds the quickest path to the pan. If I water slowly and evenly enough across the top of the soil it gets increasing easier to the point that the each liter is absorbed more quickly than the last without runoff. I typically water 3-3.5 liters per 3 gal pot and try not to get more than a few drops of runoff if any.
I hope this doesn't sound too much like bitching. I usually just throw on some tunes and enjoy my time in the tent, but sometimes I'm in a hurry! I wonder if I'm letting my plants get too dry.
Yes indeed, no sausage at this party (as evidenced in part by the first macro pic above). Chasity mostly assuredHave you been able to identify your plants sex yet Schwer?
I made a gadget to combat this problem in my room. It's a 1 gal water container with the bottom cut off, a barb fitting secured through the lid, then suspended upside down. A 1/8" hose to a 1/4 turn liquid valve controls the flow at the handle stick. The 1/8" line slows down the flow so it's great for wetting the top surface. I put a picture, it's hard to see the wand but I fill this with my mix. I ziptied the end a few times to a stick for something to hold on to. When I re-build, I'll be making a much better version of this if I plan on hand watering still.
When I was growing in peat based soiless I'd water just before the point the soil became dry enough to become Hydrophobic. It still had a good dry back but was less apt to run down the sides w out penetrating. I would treat most any soil mix this way. .realize soil mixes have varying characteristics but I did as a geso it penetrated easier. A wetting agent such as yucca extract may help to alleviate the issue as wellBtw, watering really sucks, and by that I mean it takes what I consider a really long time for me to do properly. I've been watering every two-three days when the pots feel volley-ball light and the bottom 25-50% of the leaves are letting me know its time (and uh, maybe closer to 90% once or twice).
At the start of each watering the soil is repellent so I have to water the first quart on each pot VERY slowly or it just finds the quickest path to the pan. If I water slowly and evenly enough across the top of the soil it gets increasing easier to the point that the each liter is absorbed more quickly than the last without runoff. I typically water 3-3.5 liters per 3 gal pot and try not to get more than a few drops of runoff if any.
I hope this doesn't sound too much like bitching. I usually just throw on some tunes and enjoy my time in the tent, but sometimes I'm in a hurry! I wonder if I'm letting my plants get too dry.
I’ve graduated to my bucket for such tasks, $8 submersible pump, I have a longer hose on it now. Finger over the end till I’m ready then quick flood the top, finger over the end on to the next pot. By the time I’m at the last pot the first pot has saturated a little and I repeat till the water is gone usually a gallon or so each
Thanks so much, that wetting agent info sounds interesting. I'll be pursuing that for my own edification at the very least because that's new to me.When I was growing in peat based soiless I'd water just before the point the soil became dry enough to become Hydrophobic. It still had a good dry back but was less apt to run down the sides w out penetrating. I would treat most any soil mix this way. .realize soil mixes have varying characteristics but I did as a geso it penetrated easier. A wetting agent such as yucca extract may help to alleviate the issue as well
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