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Septoria, deficiency, neither, I don’t know?

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Septoria, deficiency, neither, I don’t know?

Rama777 465 Replies 32,358 Views
Page 14 of 24 · Replies 261–280 of 466
#261
Actually to be honest I’ve been watering with a pump sprayer all this time. So really the leaves aren’t much of an issue. Very slight annoyance.

I can leave em’

Though when it comes time to lollipop the lower third, all that’s gonna come out anyways. I was thinking if I did it little by little that it would be less of a shock than doing nearly ALL the major pruning in the first week or two of flowering. I figure that will reduce potential shock/brief stunting.

Or maybe I’m just trying to justify all that in my head to give me a reason to be super hands on while everything is so novel for me :)
 
#262
Rama777 said:
Actually to be honest I’ve been watering with a pump sprayer all this time. So really the leaves aren’t much of an issue. Very slight annoyance.

I can leave em’

Though when it comes time to lollipop the lower third, all that’s gonna come out anyways. I was thinking if I did it little by little that it would be less of a shock that doing nearly ALL the major pruning in the first week or two of flowering. I figure that will reduce potential shock/brief stunting.

Or maybe I’m just trying to justify all that in my head to give me a reason to be super hands on while everything is so novel for me :)
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May I suggest learning the obo? 😂 there are certain intervals of plant growth that are ideal times to take leaves for the least amount of shock to the plant possible. Like, day 21 of flower, after the plant has finished the stretch phase, while the plant is shifting into lmid late flower and its nutrient needs change, that’s when alot of folks really do a final defol.
 
#263
Great information thanks! So save the lollipop session for later, got it.

Any pre-flower pruning that you recommend? Uncovering new tops makes sense, but like I said I’m just tucking leaves for now and that seems to work just fine to create the light exposure.

I’m sure there are a few dozen different answers to that, but you’re my best advocate right now and you clearly know what works well for you so I’ll accept your advice as a student would a teacher.

What does obo stand for?
 
#264
The thing is, when you defoliate earlier in flower. Let’s say a heavy defoliate, the plant naturally wants to counter that and grow more foliage. So you contend with ever defoliating. By doing a Heavy defoliate some days before pushing flower, you minimize the amount of “making up” what was taken. As stretch phase tends to grow much more height and focuses on extending all growth stems to the light over more foliage, although you will grow some, and less as flower progresses through week 3-4. So it is recommended to defoliate 3+ days before flower and a heavy defoliate 3 weeks into flower. Hopefully by then you have your shape/desired coverage because every stress after week 4 has a major impact.
 
#265
Rama777 said:
Great information thanks! So save the lollipop session for later, got it.

Any pre-flower pruning that you recommend? Uncovering new tops makes sense, but like I said I’m just tucking leaves for now and that seems to work just fine to create the light exposure.

I’m sure there are a few dozen different answers to that, but you’re my best advocate right now and you clearly know what works well for you so I’ll accept your advice as a student would a teacher.

What does obo stand for?
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An obo is a brass instrument. It’s awesome, I was saying to take it up as a hobby! To fill those idle moments when all you do is think about, and then mess with your ladies ha! Bad joke. Sorry. Hey, and being proficient in leaf tucking is a really good skill, not enough people employ the tactic. I would lollipop in veg normally. Wait a week then flip, this gives the plant plenty of time to shrug off the boo boos.
 
#266
Bdubs said:
The thing is, when you defoliate earlier in flower. Let’s say a heavy defoliate, the plant naturally wants to counter that and grow more foliage. So you contend with ever defoliating. By doing a Heavy defoliate some days before pushing flower, you minimize the amount of “making up” what was taken. As stretch phase tends to grow much more height and focuses on extending all growth stems to the light over more foliage, although you will grow some, and less as flower progresses through week 3-4. So it is recommended to defoliate 3+ days before flower and a heavy defoliate 3 weeks into flower. Hopefully by then you have your shape/desired coverage because every stress after week 4 has a major impact.
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I agree, tho I wait a week usually. 👊🏻
 
#267
Oh the obo haha! Well I’ve got 25 years of musicianship under my belt and instruments flooding the house so.. Now I just need some good homegrown to get the creative juices flowing!!
 
#268
Defoliating in veg promotes sugar redirection to new growth. Which you want. But mindful of what Capt. said about what leaf’s to cut. It can promote closer node spacing, depending on all variables. Bloom in veg (aggressive feeding) can also promote and enhance closer node spacing.
 
#270
Rama777 said:
For now I’ve just been taking out the lowest leaves and stems that won’t end up getting anywhere, a few leaves and little stems are every few days or so. Basically a slow rolling lollipop-ping. For the inner tops I just tuck leaves. All the tops everywhere are fully exposed to lights. You see any reason to take out anything up here at the canopy?
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That’s a great job so far. Nope, that’s gravy.
 
#271
Well let’s figure out where I’m at before I start plucking anything’s I knew that I would be untying my mains at some point so I went ahead and did that a couple days ago to see how much height it would add so I could factor that in to my overall height before the flip. It adds 2”. As a result, the mains started to extend higher than the inner canopy. Probably shouldn’t have done that but I wanted and needed to know. The tallest plant has to dictate when to flip sadly but so it goes. Tops are at 11 inches which gives me 2 more inches before flipping, factoring in a 2.66x stretch. That’s allowing for 16” between the 600hps and upper canopy. No temperature issues in here ever. I was factoring in 16” to make sure I don’t bleach any buds or even reduce their quality to any degree. If you have enough 600hps experience to recommend a safe tighter distance in the absence of temperature problems, I’m all ears.

I would keep tying down the mains to veg longer, but the biggest plant has no horizontal room to play with in the tent. I’d be mashing the faces of tops into the tent walls.

One thing I’ve been considering with the big plant is start circling the main tops to let the other plants keep growing up for a while. But I don’t know how that would potentially effect the structural integrity of the branches to train them to take a turn.
 

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#274
Rama777 said:
Well let’s figure out where I’m at before I start plucking anything’s I knew that I would be untying my mains at some point so I went ahead and did that a couple days ago to see how much height it would add so I could factor that in to my overall height before the flip. It adds 2”. As a result, the mains started to extend higher than the inner canopy. Probably shouldn’t have done that but I wanted and needed to know. The tallest plant has to dictate when to flip sadly but so it goes. Tops are at 11 inches which gives me 2 more inches before flipping, factoring in a 2.66x stretch. That’s allowing for 16” between the 600hps and upper canopy. No temperature issues in here ever. I was factoring in 16” to make sure I don’t bleach any buds or even reduce their quality to any degree. If you have enough 600hps experience to recommend a safe tighter distance in the absence of temperature problems, I’m all ears.

I would keep tying down the mains to veg longer, but the biggest plant has no horizontal room to play with in the tent. I’d be mashing the faces of tops into the tent walls.

One thing I’ve been considering with the big plant is start circling the main tops to let the other plants keep growing up for a while. But I don’t know how that would potentially effect the structural integrity of the branches to train them to take a turn.
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Turn and twist away.
 

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#275
LST slows growth of the stem you are training to focus strengthening of that stem. So, only if you have time on your hands will it make a big impact. Typically you don’t remove LST until 2nd week of flower, but/or when you attempt to remove the LST, the stem doesn’t move from its current spot.
 
#276
Awesome. I untied out of curiosity, and because the big plant’s mains were about to start flat facing into the tent walls. Okay I’ll start making some turns thanks!

If I can tease out another week, I’ll be at a 7+ week veg. These are supposedly very heavy yielding. Aiming for 20oz, will be happy with 16, will feel like I must have made a mistake if I get 12.
 
#279
So looking back, ever since I started increasing the feed ppms I was seeing at least some symptoms of it being too much, though I’m sure they’ll be fine.

For future reference, let’s say for example that the first signs of overfeeding are at an arbitrarily picked 700ppm. On the subsequent feeding, I’m guessing you step that down? What to? I know it would be depending on symptoms but let’s say it’s just lite symptoms. Go down to 500ppm, see how they respond, then bump it to 600 the next round if they took to that well? And then just go from there?

My next two plants to water have some excess, but definitely less than on the other ones we were looking at. They had 350ppm calmag plus 475ppm nutrients. No burnt tips, just some downward curl here and there. So if you were to step that down any, by how much percent might you do so? 10%, 20% more, none?

In my particular case I am going to blend the grow and bloom nutes until I flip. So if I feed 475ppm if nutes again, I could possibly be safe because the N ratio will be lower by virtue of the blend.

But overall for future reference, speaking strictly about veg nutes through the veg phase, by how much would you reduce ppms as a percentage based on symptoms of excess? You don’t have to break it down exactly the way I would, but here’s how I would rank things if it seems workable.

Scale of 1-3 in terms of symptoms.

1 being some downward curl

2 downward curl plus light burnt tips

3 all the above plus some leaf deformation and/or more intense burnt tips.

Beyond that starts to maybe get into flushing territory which hopefully I don’t need to analyze for now.

So let’s say after you see 1, 2, or 3, you’d reduce the next feeding by x, y or z respectively. What values to give x, y and z as a percentage?
 
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