Setup opinions

[MHOGSMI]

New member here. Also new to hydro but plenty of soil grows under the belt. I'm currently running a 2 bucket dwc inside a 3x3 tent. Ww & headband. Running AN grow,micro,bloom with moab at suggested intervals. Using 2 "1500watt" king leds. Ph kept at 5.8-6.0. Temps 78 with lights on, 67 with lights off. Ppm at 700. Tent is vented. Week5 of flower.
Thoughts?

Building a new system as we speak. 7x7x7 tent. Rdwc waterfall setup. 2- 15gallon totes. Control res and pump will be outside tent. Using 3 King "1500watt" leds for the rdwc plants and a King reflector series "1500watt" for the auto. 800gph pump, 60L/min air pump. All totes will also have 2 airstones. Plan on running cyco nutes this round. Probably going to pop a 710 purp and sativa maui waui for the rdwc. Not sure on the auto yet. I'll run a 5gallon dwc with an auto for shits and grins. Still building setup. Any tips or ideas on setup before I begin? Just making sure I've got everything covered.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Sorry about the burple pics. Here's a better shot

 

[Aqua Man]

Both waterfalls and airstones... Overkill but not harm in it as long as your not beating up the roots.

Are you planning to run a live or sterile system?

Those nutrients (fuck my life im commenting on more AN nutes) I will only say this once and you can take it for what it is and I'm not responding to other posts that may have different views. Sorry OP but I'm exhausted on these nutes and how they should be used so here it is.

Do not try to ph adjust these nutrients no matter what. If the ph goes out of range of what they suggest then do a complete res change with fresh nutrients.

Low concentrations with this line of nutrients may give you some ph issues so I suggest (against my normal advice) starting at about 400ppm using the same ratios provided by the manufacturer.

Do NOT add cal/mg these nutrients are designed to be used with RO water and adding cal/mg contrary to what others may say can fuck up the nutrient availability.

Ok that's my only comments on the nutrients so take it for what ya like and sorry if it comes of as being an ass that's not my intention.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Both waterfalls and airstones... Overkill but not harm in it as long as your not beating up the roots.

Are you planning to run a live or sterile system?

Those nutrients (fuck my life im commenting on more AN nutes) I will only say this once and you can take it for what it is and I'm not responding to other posts that may have different views. Sorry OP but I'm exhausted on these nutes and how they should be used so here it is.

Do not try to ph adjust these nutrients no matter what. If the ph goes out of range of what they suggest then do a complete res change with fresh nutrients.

Low concentrations with this line of nutrients may give you some ph issues so I suggest (against my normal advice) starting at about 400ppm using the same ratios provided by the manufacturer.

Do NOT add cal/mg these nutrients are designed to be used with RO water and adding cal/mg contrary to what others may say can fuck up the nutrient availability.

Ok that's my only comments on the nutrients so take it for what ya like and sorry if it comes of as being an ass that's not my intention.

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah , the AN nutes lol. Like I said, I'm new to hydro. I went with them with the idea that "perfect ph" would make my life easier and maybe allow me to actually get a harvest my first time running buckets. If I thought they were worth it, I'd continue to run them. Hence the cyco line up for my next run.
Plan on running sterile. No bennies. I don't feel I know enough to be adding them but I'm not opposed to them. Would just like to get a few solid grows/returns running rdwc and get my system dialed in before I start experimenting with stuff I've never ran/used before.

Thoughts/opinions on the cyco line up?
I never really thought about the air/waterfall overkill. What would I be looking for if I were beating up the roots too much?

 

[Aqua Man]

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah , the AN nutes lol. Like I said, I'm new to hydro. I went with them with the idea that "perfect ph" would make my life easier and maybe allow me to actually get a harvest my first time running buckets. If I thought they were worth it, I'd continue to run them. Hence the cyco line up for my next run.
Plan on running sterile. No bennies. I don't feel I know enough to be adding them but I'm not opposed to them. Would just like to get a few solid grows/returns running rdwc and get my system dialed in before I start experimenting with stuff I've never ran/used before.

Thoughts/opinions on the cyco line up?
I never really thought about the air/waterfall overkill. What would I be looking for if I were beating up the roots too much?

You will see root damage.. maybe bots floating in the system.

Those nutes work if ya use em right. They are ok for a begginer and lots of people have success with them if ya use em right. I'm sure eventually you will want some you have more control over. I have never used the other nutes you listed bit IMO stay away from the lineups and addatives and you will have a lot more successful grows. The nutrient market is 99% scam $$$ making schemes. If ya want to save yourself some money find a good 1 or 2 part dry fert that's not organic and low to no ammonia as nitrogen source. Basically almost all dry or liquid base nutrients will work well and no addatives are needed and often do more harm than good. It just depends how much ya wanna spend.

 

[needshelpguy]

You will see root damage.. maybe bots floating in the system.

Those nutes work if ya use em right. They are ok for a begginer and lots of people have success with them if ya use em right. I'm sure eventually you will want some you have more control over. I have never used the other nutes you listed bit IMO stay away from the lineups and addatives and you will have a lot more successful grows. The nutrient market is 99% scam $$$ making schemes. If ya want to save yourself some money find a good 1 or 2 part dry fert that's not organic and low to no ammonia as nitrogen source. Basically almost all dry or liquid base nutrients will work well and no addatives are needed and often do more harm than good. It just depends how much ya wanna spend.

What NPK ratings on your dry ferts do you aim for?

 

[MHOGSMI]

What NPK ratings on your dry ferts do you aim for?

Not using dry ferts. Using cyco platinum series.

 

[Nugg]

Just throwing this in.. with led lights.you need to raise your temps up to 80-85°f..and looks like in pics lights are pretty high.ive tried many manufacturer of nutes...I have my best luck with gh...one part was simple,but still needs little luv to be right..I've switched back to 3 part gh with my well water oh and hydro guard..I run a lot of air in my totes..with homemade PVC air defuser..root damage isn't a issue.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Just throwing this in.. with led lights.you need to raise your temps up to 80-85°f..and looks like in pics lights are pretty high.ive tried many manufacturer of nutes...I have my best luck with gh...one part was simple,but still needs little luv to be right..I've switched back to 3 part gh with my well water oh and hydro guard..I run a lot of air in my totes..with homemade PVC air defuser..root damage isn't a issue.

I've tried lowering my lights, my leafs start to curl and bud tips have bleached. I try to stay under 80 as I'm not running a chiller and my buckets hits mid 70's temp wise which im not a fan of. I really haven't read much about needing high temps while using LEDs. I hit my buckets with h202 every so often so I haven't really needed hydro guard. Ive read a bit about and see people who like it and see people who great without it. If I start to run into any kind of root issue, I'll for sure keep it in mind.
Thanks for the reply

 

[Nugg]

Hydro guard is for non sterile system!!.with it you can run higher water temps..wrap your totes with insulation..like that bubble foil stuff?. ..higher temps are needed by led do to lack of radiant heat...they need to transpire...keep reading more..you'll learn what works for you..I have attached a chart for you ..it will help some.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Hydro guard is for non sterile system!!.with it you can run higher water temps..wrap your totes with insulation..like that bubble foil stuff?. ..higher temps are needed by led do to lack of radiant heat...they need to transpire...keep reading more..you'll learn what works for you..I have attached a chart for you ..it will help some.

Excellent! I'll for sure check it out. My main concern is obviously algae and unwanted growth in my res, but also lack of DO with higher temps. I'll be pushing the oxygen pretty hard with my new setup. But I'm curious to see where my temps will be with 4 lights running in a 7x7x7. Maybe I'll be around that 80-85 degree mark. I guess if I were up in that rang, I'd be looking to run some co2.
Thanks again.

 

[MHOGSMI]

I'm going to try and get my rdwc running tonight. If it happens, I'll post some updates.

 

[Aqua Man]

What NPK ratings on your dry ferts do you aim for?

Personally 2-1-3 or close to.

 

[Aqua Man]

I've tried lowering my lights, my leafs start to curl and bud tips have bleached. I try to stay under 80 as I'm not running a chiller and my buckets hits mid 70's temp wise which im not a fan of. I really haven't read much about needing high temps while using LEDs. I hit my buckets with h202 every so often so I haven't really needed hydro guard. Ive read a bit about and see people who like it and see people who great without it. If I start to run into any kind of root issue, I'll for sure keep it in mind.
Thanks for the reply

That's from light stress not heat. If you use an IR temp gun and run with whatever ambient temp and light distance gets you to about 75-77f leaf temps your perfect. For me that's about 82-83f most of the time.

As for water temps I find 72-74 to be best for growth rates. At those temps there is plenty of oxygen and the important part is gas exchange not so much overall o2 capacity but making sure it stays fully replenished.

With h2o2 you want about 1ml/gal every 3 days.

With hydrogaurd it's doesn't actually let you run high temps but the bacteria in it will actively kill pythium and prevent it.

Pythium is not actually temperature related infection it usually the cause of damage to roots from chemicals, depleted o2, physical and new weaker root growth. Both methods will help prevent it but hydrogaurd can actually kill it even in already infected roots. If you keep a healthy system and plants you should not have an issue with either method.

 

[MHOGSMI]

That's from light stress not heat. If you use an IR temp gun and run with whatever ambient temp and light distance gets you to about 75-77f leaf temps your perfect. For me that's about 82-83f most of the time.

As for water temps I find 72-74 to be best for growth rates. At those temps there is plenty of oxygen and the important part is gas exchange not so much overall o2 capacity but making sure it stays fully replenished.

With h2o2 you want about 1ml/gal every 3 days.

With hydrogaurd it's doesn't actually let you run high temps but the bacteria in it will actively kill pythium and prevent it.

Pythium is not actually temperature related infection it usually the cause of damage to roots from chemicals, depleted o2, physical and new weaker root growth. Both methods will help prevent it but hydrogaurd can actually kill it even in already infected roots. If you keep a healthy system and plants you should not have an issue with either method.

Gotcha. Thanks for the tips. Glad I decided to post and reach out for advice. I'm already feeling better about this next run.

 

[MHOGSMI]

That's from light stress not heat. If you use an IR temp gun and run with whatever ambient temp and light distance gets you to about 75-77f leaf temps your perfect. For me that's about 82-83f most of the time.

As for water temps I find 72-74 to be best for growth rates. At those temps there is plenty of oxygen and the important part is gas exchange not so much overall o2 capacity but making sure it stays fully replenished.

With h2o2 you want about 1ml/gal every 3 days.

With hydrogaurd it's doesn't actually let you run high temps but the bacteria in it will actively kill pythium and prevent it.

Pythium is not actually temperature related infection it usually the cause of damage to roots from chemicals, depleted o2, physical and new weaker root growth. Both methods will help prevent it but hydrogaurd can actually kill it even in already infected roots. If you keep a healthy system and plants you should not have an issue with either method.

So, out of curiosity, I have my heart set on the Maui Waui sativa seed to pop, but out of the selection of seeds I have. What in your opinion would be the most forgiving for a new hydro grower like myself?

 

[Aqua Man]

So, out of curiosity, I have my heart set on the Maui Waui sativa seed to pop, but out of the selection of seeds I have. What in your opinion would be the most forgiving for a new hydro grower like myself?

Well I have not tried Maui but I can say I have grown white widow a few times. It's very forgiving, scrogs well, very mold resistant and pretty dam stable in my experience it's probably one of the best starter strains available, has a nice smoke and pretty decent yields. Grows like and indica short and fat and I find more sativa leaning high in terms of couch lock effect. Definately not the typical couch lock indica I think it's 60/40 if I remember right.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Well I have not tried Maui but I can say I have grown white widow a few times. It's very forgiving, scrogs well, very mold resistant and pretty dam stable in my experience it's probably one of the best starter strains available, has a nice smoke and pretty decent yields. Grows like and indica short and fat and I find more sativa leaning high in terms of couch lock effect. Definately not the typical couch lock indica I think it's 60/40 if I remember right.

I currently have a White widow and headband going at the moment. Ti behonest, I'm over the headband. I feel that strain has been very picky from the get go. It's the taller one in my 3x3 tent. The shirt bushy one is the widow.

 

[MHOGSMI]

Pump inside res or inline outside of it?

Also. To stop root clog.... with or without mesh metal screen? I feel like mesh metal is overkill

 

[Aqua Man]

Pump inside res or inline outside of it?

Also. To stop root clog.... with or without mesh metal screen? I feel like mesh metal is overkill

I prefer inline. For a 2 site you don't need to much. Something this is more than enough and they last forever. You need help with the design?

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