Should I Launch a Pre-Emptive Attack on Root Aphids?

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Disco Duck

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I managed to find Evergreen locally, the first large garden center I called had it. If you are looking for Evergreen in Denver the place below has it.


Nick's Garden Center & Farm Market
2001 South Chambers Rd
Aurora, CO 80014
(303) 696-6657
www.nicksgardencenter.com
 
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Disco Duck

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Back from the garden center with a well-researched arsenal of Root Aphid destruction!!!

Based on everything I've read in these forums, and I think I have read all the Root Aphid threads by now, this is what sounded like the best arsenal too me...

Evergeen EC 60-6 - $110 per quart!!!
GardenTech Sevin Foliar Spray - $10 for 32 oz bottle.
Tree Tanglefoot Insect Barrier - $6 for 6 oz tube.

The Evergreen is very expesive stuff, but it can be run in the res at 2ml per gallon at all times which I think is the key to wiping out the Root Aphids, never letting up and always have something in there attacking them. A lot of posts also claim that this is the only stuff that truly works on Root Aphids.

Sevin Foliar spray is also said to be particularly effecitive against RA, so I got that to go with the Evergreen.

Tanglefoot is a tube of goo that is like the stuff on pest strips. I didn't thinking hanging strips from the roof would do any good, I can spread this stuff on cardboard and put it where ever I want.

I've read the Rommel Papers, Patton, all of Basil Liddel-Hart and Churchill's books... Even though that was over 20 years ago, I still feel prepared for war:-)
 
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Disco Duck

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Ok, since Evergreen is so expensive, instead of flooding the 7 gal min res on the Rainforest I put 4 gal into a bucket and spent about 2 min dunking each pot into the bucket. I'd hold it in for 10 seconds or so and pull it out to let the water run out to try and jog loose bugs and make the come out (I only saw 6-8 bugs in the bucket while doing this). After dunking ecah plant a dozen times or so I put them back in the Rainforest. Right now I am leaving the sprayer off for a few hours so I don't rinse the Evergreen out of the pots. When I turn it on it will give me a lighter than 2ml per gal mix for the next couple days before I flip to flower. When I change to flower I will dunk them again, and put 2ml per gallon into the nute mix for the rest of the grow until the last 2 weeks (to let it work it's way out of the plants).

I also got some of the Hygrozyme to help the roots recover, but I won't put that in until I change the res to flower in a day or two.

I'll let everyone know how the Evergreen/Sevin combo is working in this thread.
 
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Disco Duck

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So far this is looking very good. I caught this early because I had RA last time so was looking for it. I had hit them with a 3 hour res flood of SNS203 at 1 week and 1 day in. That helped a lot, but you could tell they were still there just from the look of the plants. Earlier today I dunked the pots in a 2ml per gal Evergreen PHd RO water solution and sprayed them with Sevin.

The effect of this was amazing. All along two of the plants had been a lighter shade of green than the other 4, one of the things that let me know there was a problem. The SNS had slightly darkened them. After the Evergreen/Sevin... within 2 hours those two plants were the darkest green they have ever been. After 4 hours it was hard to tell them apart from the other plants, they are almost the same color now and you have to look close to find any light leaves on them. This seems to have worked very well so far, obviously much better than SNS203.

I need to switch to flower in the next day or two. I saved the bucket of Evergreen (expensive stuff) and will stir it really well then dunk them all again when I switch the res to flowering. I'll keep spraying with Sevin, and run 2ml of Evergreen in the res into towards the end. So far this is looking very good.
 
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Disco Duck

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The plants about 24 hours after Evergreen dunk. They all a perfect dark green and seem to be growing normally. All six have new sets of leaves since I went to sleep last night.
 
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OutLander

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Disco, I've been reading about your war here. Do you have any updates?

I just poured 2ml/gal on all my girls today. Gonna hit rooms with pyrethrum bombs next. On that, does anyone know if the full-power P-bombs are safe around the plants? (4% pyrethrins, 16% of the other chemical - same ones as in evergreen, but smaller dose) Or should I pull them out and put them back when its done?

Would love to hear how things turned out for you, Disco!

-ol
 
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amstercal

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Disco, I've been reading about your war here. Do you have any updates?

I just poured 2ml/gal on all my girls today. Gonna hit rooms with pyrethrum bombs next. On that, does anyone know if the full-power P-bombs are safe around the plants? (4% pyrethrins, 16% of the other chemical - same ones as in evergreen, but smaller dose) Or should I pull them out and put them back when its done?

Would love to hear how things turned out for you, Disco!

-ol

It will make them heat/light sensitive. Do at lights out. Definitely want the plants to get p-bombed too, so if you don't feel comfortable doing that strength, get one you do, IMHO.
 
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Disco Duck

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Disco, I've been reading about your war here. Do you have any updates?

I just poured 2ml/gal on all my girls today. Gonna hit rooms with pyrethrum bombs next. On that, does anyone know if the full-power P-bombs are safe around the plants? (4% pyrethrins, 16% of the other chemical - same ones as in evergreen, but smaller dose) Or should I pull them out and put them back when its done?

Would love to hear how things turned out for you, Disco!

-ol

I was just coming to give an update of my battle for the last week. I won!!! Those Root Aphids are no match for Evergreen with a Sevin foliar spray! (But I did catch it very early).

What I did was fill a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of water. I added 10ml to this 4 gallons (and 2.5 mil of PH down) to make a slightly stronger mix than what is in the res. I spent about 3 or 4 minutes dunking each plant in the bucket (10-15 dunks each, this takes like 40-45 minutes to do 6 plants). I dunk them all the way until it is the bottom of the trunk is submerged, then pull it out and let all the water flush through it and wash off the hanging roots. I keep dunking it until all the roots look white again, or at least white-ish.

I have done this 3 times now, every 3 days. Last night was the last time, and I am pretty sure there are no more Root Aphids. I am planning on dunking one more time in 2 days, but after that the roots are going to become too long (they will all entangle with each other in my Rainforest). But I am pretty sure the bugs are all gone anyway. Oh, and of course I run 2ml per gallon in the res.

I only sprayed with the Sevin once a day for the first few days. It started to leave a white residue on the leaves and I've been spraying with alch/water since to wash it off.

My problems now are that I think I might have the virus, because leaves might still be yellowing... but I still can't tell for sure if they are or not. It's nothing like when I had the bugs, if they are still yellowing/browning it is happening at a snails pace now.

The other thing I that this is only my third grow. My first was successful, but I've come to realize that I've been ignoring root health, the roots in my first grow were bad even though it worked. My roots now are covered with brown slime, but it washes off in the Evergreen dunks. I think it's because I used Hygrozyme in my RDWC as part of this bug attack and only later read it's not a good thing to use in RDWC.

I want to switch to a "sterile resivior". I think I can achieve healthy roots that way. Before I spend a lot on DM Zone (just assuming it's expensive, haha) I was going to try the concept with 29% Hydrogen Peroxide on my next water change. Can anyone tell me how many ml per gallon of 29% Hydrogen Peroxide I am supposed to use?

I am using GH full "expert" schedule with RO water and GH CalMag. Right now there is also Subculture B and M, Hygrozyme, and Evergreen in the mix. For my next grow I will be mostly out of GH and plan on working out a good sterile mix based on H&G Aquaflakes that puts as few products into the res as needed, but for now I need to make a sterile GH mix.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Oh jeez, you poor thing. Your third grow and you had to deal with the RAs?

That which doesn't kill you. Now you've got this notch on your belt, early on, it'll be smooth sailing from now on!
 
cannarado

cannarado

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Supporter
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From now on be proactive not reactive
 
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Disco Duck

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Oh jeez, you poor thing. Your third grow and you had to deal with the RAs?

That which doesn't kill you. Now you've got this notch on your belt, early on, it'll be smooth sailing from now on!

Actually my second grow I didn't notice the root aphids until about 300 of them came crawling out of the pots, all I knew up until then was that the plants were very sick.

My next grow I will dunk the pots in Evergreen before the even go in, and run 2ml of Evergreen pre-emptively for most of the grow. I'm also going to switch to a sterile res on my next water change and do that from now on. A sterile res sounds like the easiest way to go in RDWC and I think that will solve my brown slimy root problem.
 
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Disco Duck

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For anyone wondering how this turned out...

By the third dunking, the last post, it seemed like the bugs were gone. On the 4th and last (every 3 days for 12 days) there was again no sign of any bugs and the plants were still growing normally. It's been almost 2 weeks now, still running 2ml per gal of Evergreen in the res just to be sure but there has been no sign of bugs or stunted growth since the third dunking.

DMZone Gold is great stuff. It solved the slimy brown root problem immediately. The earlier roots are still brown and unhealthy looking, but not slimy. And all new roots are a very nice white color. So now I am seem to be chugging along with no problems at all, and healthy white roots.

So my new res forumla that is working for me is GH "expert" schedule (all their addatives except Subculture B and M), with DM Zone Gold and Evergreen. I will stop the Evergreen for the last 4 weeks, and do a FloraKleen flush when I do the res change where I stop using the Evergreen.

So Evergreen worked on Root Aphids for me very well. It seemed to eliminated them after 2 dunks, with 2ml in the res at all times. I also sprayed with Sevin for the first few days, but it left a film that took a week of spraying with water/alch to wash off. Still, I would also use the Sevin again, I found about half a dozen dead bugs under the plants after spraying early on.
 
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vapeman

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9 week budding and NO SMELL...few trychs.. HELP

Hmm when you describe you brown leaves, curled leaves etc. it makes me wonder if that is what has been plaguing my Bubba Kush since I got them.
They had curled leaves when I got them as 2 ft. teens. I vegged for 1 week and have been blooming 12/12 under 1000 watt for 9 weeks.
They have continued to look bad, but I never saw any webs or mites until I spotted a couple of small bugs with the scope. I covered the plants with Liquid Lady Bug. That seemed to get rid of any sign of bugs on leaves.
So more and more leaves continue to turn brown. I am in ebb and flow system and the environment is great...temp, humidity, co2...
The BIG QUESTION is why do they have no smell after 9 weeks ? The upper buds finally started with white hairs about 3 weeks ago. I see trychs, on the upper buds ..some cloudy and a few amber..not as much trychs as I have seen on past grows.. (this is my 4th...2nd hydro)
Surprisingly I finally see quite a few nice looking firm nuggets along the stems, but no white hairs on them...small amount of small size trychs and very few trychs on the surrounding leaves. I am wondering if this product will even get me high. It obviously has developed slow and was stunted by some trauma. If it had some kind of root problem from aphids or disease does that take away the potency ?
I was planning on doing a final flush tomorrow and go for another week or so. Should I continue to give them nutrients and see if they develop more trychs on the lower buds in the next 2 or 3 weeks ? Is it going to make a difference if I go 11 or 12 weeks in order to get a product worth vaping ? I am willing to let them go longer if there is any hope of them getting strong. If there is virtually no odor is that a bad sign for trychs and potency ?
I appreciate any help
 
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