Side leaves curling up and tips curling down? ? ?

[Greenhouse82]

I'm using Flora grow and my PPM stays around 1200 to 1600 and they are in the beginning stages of flowering. I was feeding at 700 when I moved up these past two weeks for flowering. But I've noticed my leaves are starting to curl up and look dry the sides of the leaves are curling up and some of the tips are curling down. Earlier I raise the lights I'm using a 1200 watt LED veg and Bloom and a 600w LED veg light. I move the lights about 12 in because tomorrow I was going to continue my low-stress training and there is something that needs tied down well when I open my tent I seen the tops starting to droop, was this due to moving the light further away? Or has this been in the works since first sign of the leaves turning? My pH stays between 6.5 and 6.8. And I'm on a light schedule of 12/12. I also defoliated just over a week ago. to know what's going on. Already had trouble outdoors with Bud rot taking over a couple ladies up on the hill.

 

[Lord Bonkey]

no way your soil ph is 6.5
whats the run off come out at?

 

[m8ty]

That looks like heat stress and it sounds like you're using too many watts and nutrients, the wilting is not from raising the lights.

 

[basscaptain]

That looks like heat stress and it sounds like you're using too many watts and nutrients, the wilting is not from raising the lights.

think the light were to close to start with........ that's were the heat stress is coming from, get a fan in there running also

 

[Butts4Supper]

Have you had a peak at your root zone? I suspect your plants problems stem from your soil being too high of ph, and root bound, shoot for a 6.1-6.3 soil run off ph, next transplant your plants to bigger pots that don't have that taper if they are root bound gently break away the edges of the root mass, give the roots a wiff, tellus what it smells like, tell us what your using along with the floragro, I sure hope your going to tell me micro and bloom, since that is a 3 part nutrient. For some plants a 2-1-6 can skimp them by but not ours.

 

[tall boys]

Sound like chemical burn, to me ...

 

[MIMedGrower]

Better to gradually raise the ppm’s of fertilizer. I usually dont go above 1.6 ec (800ppm) at peak flowering even with 5 oz indoor plants in potting soil.

 

[oldskol4evr]

Better to gradually raise the ppm’s of fertilizer. I usually dont go above 1.6 ec (800ppm) at peak flowering even with 5 oz indoor plants in potting soil.

bingo,from 700 to 1600 ppm in 2 weeks wow,im surprised there even alive,i asume you are using the 500 scale,everyone is correct in diagnoise,the ph out,feed out,stress from lights and nuclear holocost hahahah, im surprised these plants are alive im thinking 900 ppm were they should be

 

[oldskol4evr]

my sugestion is water onlt to your runoff comes way down,dont flush it hurt more than good,feed ph water at 6.5 for at least next 2 feedings

 

[oldskol4evr]

 

[tall boys]

View attachment 900171

How fun coco is .....

 

[Greenhouse82]

think the light were to close to start with........ that's were the heat stress is coming from, get a fan in there running also

I raise my lights and installed a fan I had a bunch of stuff on order but was waiting for it to come in. I finally got it today.

 

[Greenhouse82]

bingo,from 700 to 1600 ppm in 2 weeks wow,im surprised there even alive,i asume you are using the 500 scale,everyone is correct in diagnoise,the ph out,feed out,stress from lights and nuclear holocost hahahah, im surprised these plants are alive im thinking 900 ppm were they should be

I definitely switch some things up I'm taking my PPM way down one of the raisins was what I was using for my pH was not correct I did not have a pH meter I was using a pH kit from Walmart what's had a big part to play that and my lights were too close

 

[Lord Bonkey]

I definitely switch some things up I'm taking my PPM way down one of the raisins was what I was using for my pH was not correct I did not have a pH meter I was using a pH kit from Walmart what's had a big part to play that and my lights were too close

I think thats it, your ph is locking everything out.
lots of good advice above :)

 

[oldskol4evr]

I definitely switch some things up I'm taking my PPM way down one of the raisins was what I was using for my pH was not correct I did not have a pH meter I was using a pH kit from Walmart what's had a big part to play that and my lights were too close

if it make you feel better,i even ph and ppm my water in soil,for my medicine grows,i have awful tap water,my outdoor garden filter it okay,but would be better with better water ro water out of the question for most my plants and sure as shit cant feed 50x 50 garden down hill and 28 container top garden ,hahahah,keep that ppm and ec post i put up work by that and you will rock

 

[Greenhouse82]

if it make you feel better,i even ph and ppm my water in soil,for my medicine grows,i have awful tap water,my outdoor garden filter it okay,but would be better with better water ro water out of the question for most my plants and sure as shit cant feed 50x 50 garden down hill and 28 container top garden ,hahahah,keep that ppm and ec post i put up work by that and you will rock

Thank you I greatly appreciate it and I did I saved it and printed it out so thank you very much for that I noticed my tap water the PPM is almost at a 300 just the Water by itself and my pH out of the faucet is right at 8.0. I seen on a lot of videos people having their flowering lights really close to their plants and nobody talks about light spacing and none of this happened until I went into flowering and I moved the lights closer. But I have been having a yellow leaf with brown spots problem for a long time I have. I think it's due to the pH but I could be wrong I just bought me a brand new pH meter it's something similar to my PPM meter I'm going to post a couple photos of the way the leaves look. If you will give those a look and tell me what you think it is. Thanks again

 

[Greenhouse82]

Have you had a peak at your root zone? I suspect your plants problems stem from your soil being too high of ph, and root bound, shoot for a 6.1-6.3 soil run off ph, next transplant your plants to bigger pots that don't have that taper if they are root bound gently break away the edges of the root mass, give the roots a wiff, tellus what it smells like, tell us what your using along with the floragro, I sure hope your going to tell me micro and bloom, since that is a 3 part nutrient. For some plants a 2-1-6 can skimp them by but not ours.

Yes I am using the three-part from General Hydroponics Flora micro grow and Bloom. They are root bound and I listen to this idiot that told me that those would be big enough but I do have some of the bag pots that I could transplant them into I understand what you mean about taking your fingers and breaking up the mass around the outside to allow the roots to drop downward so they can start growing down and then back up instead of keeping them at the top. Once these are done I'm switching to all hydro phonics and doing them in buckets. I already have two clones going in the buckets and I use a couple different things including the Flora with those as well. I will post a photo of the other products that I was told that would help get root mass. I have not tested no runoff at all but I am doing so currently so I thank you all very much for your advice you guys rock. Finally starting to get some real answers with some real people that understand the science behind it and has got it figured out so thank you all very much

 

[oldskol4evr]

Thank you I greatly appreciate it and I did I saved it and printed it out so thank you very much for that I noticed my tap water the PPM is almost at a 300 just the Water by itself and my pH out of the faucet is right at 8.0. I seen on a lot of videos people having their flowering lights really close to their plants and nobody talks about light spacing and none of this happened until I went into flowering and I moved the lights closer. But I have been having a yellow leaf with brown spots problem for a long time I have. I think it's due to the pH but I could be wrong I just bought me a brand new pH meter it's something similar to my PPM meter I'm going to post a couple photos of the way the leaves look. If you will give those a look and tell me what you think it is. Thanks againView attachment 900257View attachment 900258

yep way out whack,8 ph no good,300 ppm takes a lot of your feed away to adjust from that,if you cant buy tons of ro water,do half tap and half ro water,i suggest that you take your meters and do the ro water,write it down,then your tap water write it down,take a couple glasses and mix at small increments both to combine a sweet spot,you might even get away with more tap water,wont know to you put on the lab coat and roll ,mine is 7.2 ph and 315 ppm,by adding ro water i get the ppm down a couple hundred and check and then the ph is in good shape right in the 6 catagory,this hydro im rolling outside i keep it at 6 using the mixes kinda like master blend but cheaper no name stuff,the food drops ph and the magnesium sulfate drops ph the calcium nitrate raises the ph,if the plant look good,i drop ph with the magnesium sulfate first,then if i need it down more i add the food and it levels out

 

[Butts4Supper]

Np man, happy to help. Can you please tell us:
1: What your mix ratio is.
2: What feed schedule and pattern is, (i.e feed/water/feed ect.)

If I was you I'd use it like this:
1 part micro, 1 part grow, 1 part bloom at a 5.28ml/g after you've transplanted.
Add in your FP+ at 1ml/g( which I love BTW, I tend not to garden without it.)

After it starts to smarten up say in a week or so, up the feed to 10.56ml/g but keep the FP+ the same.

Stay on a 1-1-1 ratio until the second week of flower is complete, then switch it to a 2-1-3 ratio.

The GH 3 part is a more capable nutrient than a lot of growers. I use it from time to time and sometimes when I'm too poor to order my elements in bulk.

Use the great white as a root drench, I've heard of guys sprinkling it in the transplant cavity before transplanting, I've never tried it that way.
I don't know what that brand cyco is, I think I remember an old aussie brand by that name called cyco flower, pgr bullshit...but thats neither here nor there.
It looks like a carb product and it probably has dextrose and magnesium. Use this in the last weeks of bloom, its really only one week but I'm telling you two because they only time these products do anything other than sweeten your bud(maybe) is in the late part of the flower cycle and you'll have to figure that out on your specific strain. The mag will help with trichome luminescence and production.

 

[Beachwalker]

Thank you I greatly appreciate it and I did I saved it and printed it out so thank you very much for that I noticed my tap water the PPM is almost at a 300 just the Water by itself and my pH out of the faucet is right at 8.0. I seen on a lot of videos people having their flowering lights really close to their plants and nobody talks about light spacing and none of this happened until I went into flowering and I moved the lights closer. But I have been having a yellow leaf with brown spots problem for a long time I have. I think it's due to the pH but I could be wrong I just bought me a brand new pH meter it's something similar to my PPM meter I'm going to post a couple photos of the way the leaves look. If you will give those a look and tell me what you think it is. Thanks againView attachment 900257View attachment 900258

I may be wrong but that bottom Leaf has a lot of little white dots on it, have you checked for bugs? you certainly have at least one other issue going on but maybe check for bug damage too