Sixstrings Led Cob Builds

[Toaster79]

What thermal switch do you have?

 

[New school]

90° nc.

 

[Toaster79]

Seriously?

 

[New school]

Okay what would you recommend?

 

[Toaster79]

You'll need something more than just this tempeature control switch. That's not how it works hahahaha. You can't simply wire this thing to your driver output and expect it to do something. You need a controller of some sort to either break the DC circuit on the drivers output or AC on the drivers input.

 

[New school]

It's a basic thermal switch as it gets hot there are two wires inside bend apart and break connection. If I use a thermal adhesive and mount it onto my heatsink and the fan fails as it gets hotter it will break the circuit to the cob.

 

[Toaster79]

Looks like you got it all figured out. Why were you asking for help again?

 

[sixstring]

if you put one on every heatsink and wire to the pos side it should work.so basically if one of 4 cob failed,the other 3 would heat up and trip the switch one by one

 

[New school]

I was not sure if it mattered if I placed it on the + or - side?

 

[New school]

Thank you Sixstring. If I'm running them soft would the rest fail as well? I'm planning on driving (4 cxm22 on HLG-240H-54B
) ×2.

 

[sixstring]

i dont really think it matters if its + or - side but i would use +. but if your running soft and use a good heatsink there should never be a problem.of course this is the reason i aviod parallel wiring lol. how many amps will these have per cob or wattage and what size heatsinks are you using ?

 

[New school]

Recycling two old blurples. Active cooling the heatsink is 3-1/2" square 1" thick. Should be 1.1amp @ 54v. (A is 3000k 90cri)(b is 3500k 90cri)

 

[New school]

Any suggestions would be welcome and appreciated.

 

[Toaster79]

Alright I apologise for the post above. This one can actually be wired to the line and turn it off if it gets too hot. The problem is how do you set the temperature? When this probe gets to 90°C your leds will be melting away.

 

[New school]

You can get them in a variety of different temps. Nc for normally closed or No for normally open. Once I'm up and running I'll check my heatsink temp (temp gun) before I order them.

 

[New school]

Sorry Sixstring for hijacking your thread. So hard to find an active thread sometimes. Love your builds. Your definitely more knowledgeable than me. I would still like to hear your opinion. Tks

 

[sixstring]

No problem on the thread jack,it's here for led talk . Usually toaster is more helpful than me lol. I think he's right you need to find a switch rated for about 70c cutoff.i would actually want 60c,most of my cobs run around 40 to 52c warmed up. I know I just seen gg talk about the Samsung 301b being able to handle 70c but it's not ideal and with cobs cooler than 60c is good.

 

[sixstring]

If it was me,I think I would use a fuse in line like put a 2 amp fuse on each cob,if one fails the other 3 will pop and shut it down.or just use a different driver, cc rated for 1050amps and use series wiring haha.

 

[New school]

Oh I understand about the parallel wiring. This is what Cobkits sold me. My veg light is 5 3590's in series. The cxm22s can take 2200ma max and the driver is rated 4450ma. So it should be okay if one burnt. Am I right? I'm still new to this.

 

[Tpahydroguy]

I feel the need to pay it forward so if you have any questions feel free to ask,if i dont have the answers i can prob direct you to a good place to look.
First pic is kinda old now,its bigger with 7 tubes laying idle....dead soldiers lol
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Masterkush likes cobs :)
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I built some cob lights and used 2" square aluminum screen post. Worked great and you can choose white or brown. Used the screen angles and self drilling screws and it went together FAST.