styles...switch names of electric holder and usage resets. It wont show a spike.
An isolation transformer, same voltage in/out would be a great buffer between the panel and meter. That's how the power in operating rooms is done.Yes ..there are definite ways to filter your appliance signature.
We used to use a thing called a power conditioner.
Let me see what I can dig up.
I've got a couple of master electricians and engineers in my family.
ive had a smart meter for about 2 years now in my new spot..only running 8 lights for flower(on relays) so 4 ballasts running 24/7....then i got 2kw for veg running 24/7 ...so thats 6kw running 24/7 plus my huge ass a/c and fans, pumps ect...never had an issue related to the meter...
so i dont know if its because all my ballasts are running 24/7....or if they really dont give a shit, but i have not had an issue....
the power company is also now offering to replace the smart meter with and old mechanical one like we used to have for 15$ installation plus 5$ monthly...i currently owe a few thou on my electric bill but hoping to clear them next crop so i can switch out the meter this summer...but as of now i have had zero issues with this meter..
ps: the reason the elec company is offering to switch out the meters is because of too many complaints of ppls bills going from 200/month to 800/month and they dont even grow, just old ladies and shit...so there is def problems with the meters i think..
Dapper,Would something like this work?
Starting surge is inherent with all HID lamp sources. Takes a lot of power to initially excite the gasses within the lamp envelope, but once that action occurs the ballast ramps back to more of a normal output. Old HID lamps would take 5-8 minutes to come to full brightness, and the ballast is pushing the power for that duration.