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My neighbor, who isn't a grower but works in pharma, was suggesting it might be the Sloughing of plant cells from roots. Doing some research right now about this to see what it is exactly.

Bigger or more airstones means more DO so the concept would work by not allowing the breeding of anaerobic bacteria?

Would temperature spikes also be cause of this sludge?
 

DGP

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My neighbor, who isn't a grower but works in pharma, was suggesting it might be the Sloughing of plant cells from roots. Doing some research right now about this to see what it is exactly.

Bigger or more airstones means more DO so the concept would work by not allowing the breeding of anaerobic bacteria?

Would temperature spikes also be cause of this sludge?
In my opinion is bacteria based biofilm. Heisenbubble uses hydroguard and I use food grade H202. Sometimes I wonder if one doesn't work better than the other depending on the source water and other variables. I didn't have good luck with hydroguard but I am considering giving it another try cause I want to try beneficial bacteria like Mammoth.

BTW, the inline filtration was an absolute fail for me as well it would plug so fast it was threatening to shut the whole system down and wreck my pump by starving its water supply. I put a fabric filter bag over the waterfall output but now I don't seem to need any filtration.

Dee
 
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Shouldn't the pressure be the same no matter the length once it reaches its end?

Meaning if there were ten houses all the same size but varying lengths that attached to stones that only let 5% of the air through them. In this situation wouldn't it not matter about the length of the hoses since the maximum level of air hasn't escaped the system?
No, I explained air and water flow through pipes and ducts a couple of weeks ago.
 
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No, I explained air and water flow through pipes and ducts a couple of weeks ago.
So even with an overabundance of water pressure in the system it would still show differentials?

Let's say there was a maximum psi of 100 but the nozzles and system only allows for a max of 80. Wouldn't each nozzle at that point have 10psi in an 8 nozzle system with varying lengths?
 
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Is pvc the easiest way to build individual scrogs for each tote in an 8 by 5 foot footing? I'm sure there are cheaper ways which I am open to as well. I'm looking at building each scrog to the dimensions of 2x2.

Thanks!
 
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The system takes a total of 70 gallons for clones and 60 gallons once the roots drop. Added nutes and water heater to get the system primed.

Going to start off the clones at a little under half of the recommended dose of Masterblend/calnit/epsomsalt. I'll check the ppm's and ph tomorrow after its had 24hrs to stew. The recommended dosage is 10/10/5 for regular strength for rdwc and I'm halfing that.

Is it worth running silicon in your solution during clone and veg? If your grow is on point could it be argued you wouldn't need it? I used it last time and my grow went much better but the silicone could have absolutely nothing to do with that.
 
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What are you guys doing about light bleed through the pvc orbits it not enough to matter?

I went ahead and covered it all with tinfoil
 
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Ready to go and getting anxious!

Will have been running for 72 hours before plants go in. 360ppm, 6.0ph and 66-68 degree water. Water cooler has a 2 degree swing in normal operation.
I use to cover.mine with tar epoxy but dont seem to matter.i had issues covering the net pots with that bubble shit.got crown and stem rot from all the moisture it was trapping around the stem
Wont do that no more.
Now I just leave the pebbles open and that issue went away.
 
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Finally figured out the issue.

There's a 2 foot rise from the water pump to the chiller. Instead of the bacteria making it to my filter post chiller it's getting stuck before the pump inside the 1" return line. It just poured out of there when I disconnected the pump.

My solution is to place the filter before the pump at floor level and I'm hoping this will allow the filter to remove it like it should.

Any advice on cleaning out a 10' return line? I can't think of anything that is long enough of small enough to fit in there and clean it out. I assume a pool shock sterilizing alone will not remove it?
 
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Finally figured out the issue.

There's a 2 foot rise from the water pump to the chiller. Instead of the bacteria making it to my filter post chiller it's getting stuck before the pump inside the 1" return line. It just poured out of there when I disconnected the pump.

My solution is to place the filter before the pump at floor level and I'm hoping this will allow the filter to remove it like it should.

Any advice on cleaning out a 10' return line? I can't think of anything that is long enough of small enough to fit in there and clean it out. I assume a pool shock sterilizing alone will not remove it?
Thats not your issue,I have a 2 foot rise also,You shouldnt have that much bacteria and that filter wont remove pathogens,Only organic matter.Its a waste of time.How is that bacillus substitute working out?
 
Thats not your issue,I have a 2 foot rise also,You shouldnt have that much bacteria and that filter wont remove pathogens,Only organic matter.Its a waste of time.How is that bacillus substitute working out?
Sorry ti hijack the thread, but what happened to your rdwc diy?
 
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Filter installed and planning on getting new clones for it this Saturday.
Instead of having the filter on ur chiller that's after ur pump y not run it in our control bucket so then u don't have to shut ur pump off to clean it plus it stays dry ....Like how I did mine....
And it works great..I also use bulkhead filters too so no roots will get in the pump since it's after the pump not before like most lol do
IMG_20190715_224413.jpg
 

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