I am wondering that maybe curing has something to do with VPD chartsAnd any mold? I'm betting not a hint.
This is very similar to the VPD thing ppl shit all over for years and claiming mold and PM and all that stuff. They refuse to accept they may not have done it properly and say you need 40%RH in fower or you get mold etc.
Idk believe it or not 60-65% has been a standard by some pretty top notch growers for a long time and yes we want to stay under 65% but that doesn't translate into 50%..... thats just people taking a guidline and basically saying the drier the better and thats just not the case.
How your stuff coming alone @Glassdub sounds like your hitting the mark nicely.
Yeah, I got this guide stuck to my fridge, I wouldn't feel comfortable jarring up 65% or higher, the plus of the paper bad method.+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
For some reason I thought it was supposed to be lower temp, regardless I have a hard enough time keeping my temps 70 & above at this time of the year in my tent with lights full on so this isn't going to happen.I am wondering that maybe curing has something to do with VPD charts
I notice that at 70 F, which is what people seem to recommend for a curing temp, that at 50% the VPD goes out of the optimal ranges shown on the charts. Interesting to note, that mythical 60-65% range everyone seems to say is the best also seems to be right in the optimal range.
60-70f is my opinion. Preferably 60-65For some reason I thought it was supposed to be lower temp, regardless I have a hard enough time keeping my temps 70 & above at this time of the year in my tent with lights full on so this isn't going to happen.
That works, I've compromised in allowing setting the heat to 65 when I'm gone, used to just shut it off, & 70 when home, plant room tends toward 63-66 outside the tent.60-70f is my opinion. Preferably 60-65
depending on what conditions you are drying in, the size of what you're drying and the moisture content when you started the time required will vary but two weeks is an awfully long time.I put three bags of boveda62% in it, but I feel that there is no difference between putting them in and not putting them. Maybe it is the reason for winter at present? Or drying for two weeks? , Totally have no ideas
I’m curious too!depending on what conditions you are drying in, the size of what you're drying and the moisture content when you started the time required will vary but two weeks is an awfully long time.
what size bovedas are you using?
Heard bovedas taint the flavor so I avoided them + only seem useful if you plan on storing for a real long time.I’m curious too!
I'm gonna disagree here.... not with the fact that anaerobic bacteria are not desirable. But that at 60-65% you are assuming its to wet and thats just not correct. Yes burping for the first while is needed..... but only if the moisture content of the bud and RH require it.I didn't read this thread in its entirety, but I read a lot of it and didn't see one thing mentioned that is important: It's not just mold you're avoiding, which can be visible if it's really bad. Even invisible anaerobic bacteria can ruin the bud. That's the one that makes it smell like a mildewy kitchen sponge.
I think some of the people in this thread are worrying way too much about keeping the buds hydrated and not enough about preventing anaerobic bacteria. You can not only burp jars, but when you're talking about pounds in turkey bags, you can (and should) open the bags at least once a day, and not just for a few seconds. I used to leave the bags open for several minutes at a time, letting it really air out. Nobody wants their stuff to get too dry, but you really, really don't want it to stay too wet, because then it becomes compostable garbage. You can always rehydrate a bit if it becomes necessary, but if you let anaerobic bacteria take hold, the stuff you worked so hard to grow is ruined.
I definitely mentioned it and that's why I'm the crazy old kook who keeps talking about, 'think about it like fermentation maaaaan...'I didn't read this thread in its entirety, but I read a lot of it and didn't see one thing mentioned that is important: It's not just mold you're avoiding, which can be visible if it's really bad. Even invisible anaerobic bacteria can ruin the bud. That's the one that makes it smell like a mildewy kitchen sponge.
I think some of the people in this thread are worrying way too much about keeping the buds hydrated and not enough about preventing anaerobic bacteria. You can not only burp jars, but when you're talking about pounds in turkey bags, you can (and should) open the bags at least once a day, and not just for a few seconds. I used to leave the bags open for several minutes at a time, letting it really air out. Nobody wants their stuff to get too dry, but you really, really don't want it to stay too wet, because then it becomes compostable garbage. You can always rehydrate a bit if it becomes necessary, but if you let anaerobic bacteria take hold, the stuff you worked so hard to grow is ruined.
To add, bags are not air tight like jars that's why I think its a good mid step between paper bags & jars.
They don't breath like paper nor are they as air tight as jars, if they were why can you smell weed in sealed turkey bags but not at all in jars? The bag step is just prior to jars when the weed is well below 70% RH & just about ready to cure.Tell that to the plastic bag of fan leaves that's be sitting in my shed, Rh 8%,for 3 months. That shit should be bone dry right.. Then why it turn to mush? Why is the bag heavier than when I threw it in there?
This whole thing seems too confusing for most people. Water is too hard to grasp I guess. Or is everyone else growing a different plant than me? Those same fan leaves would take 2 weeks to dry laying out in the open at 35%rh, how anyones weed dries faster than that.. Must be growing fake weed. Same dudes that think a dead body stinks more when it's fresh rather than once more break down has happened.. dude you're growing fake weed... This curing shit is not about water or preservation or anything that involves a meter or sensor or chart or gimmick device.
What?Tell that to the plastic bag of fan leaves that's be sitting in my shed, Rh 8%,for 3 months. That shit should be bone dry right.. Then why it turn to mush? Why is the bag heavier than when I threw it in there?
This whole thing seems too confusing for most people. Water is too hard to grasp I guess. Or is everyone else growing a different plant than me? Those same fan leaves would take 2 weeks to dry laying out in the open at 35%rh, how anyones weed dries faster than that.. Must be growing fake weed. Same dudes that think a dead body stinks more when it's fresh rather than once more break down has happened.. dude you're growing fake weed... This curing shit is not about water or preservation or anything that involves a meter or sensor or chart or gimmick device.
Well. RH 57% T 16 °, I am very satisfied with jar condition, which entered the curing stage already.depending on what conditions you are drying in, the size of what you're drying and the moisture content when you started the time required will vary but two weeks is an awfully long time.
what size bovedas are you using?
u mean terpene lose,Heard bovedas taint the flavor so I avoided them + only seem useful if you plan on storing for a real long time.
No, as I said, taste.u mean terpene lose,
so a healthy trichome that's coming out of the drying curing process ,the healthy trichomes in good shape got the ability to maintain its integrity for a certain period of time .
boveda pack at after the drying and initial curing phase and what the boveda is it creates a monolayer of moisture around the trichome head, so what the monolayer moisture does is it keeps the moisture that is in the bud from coming out of the bud , the way u lose terpenes is when the water evaporates out of the trichome head, so as soon as that trichome head gets dry and breaks down , those chirps are escaping along with the water vapor that's in the trichome head .
just like if u touch bud u get some terpenes on fingers,when u have a boveda in ur jar or ur bag, its going to get a little bit on the paper , but otherwise there's no absorption of terpense by the boveda. On the contrary and this is whats kind of cool , they said boveda steal terps , but the boveda crews found that boveda not only they not steal terps , but also preserving terps.
Whether you believe it or not, in the first 7 days after ur cure , u re in danger of losing 40 percents of ur terpenes .
the plant is abt 80 to 85 percent abt water when it's on the stock , and when u cut it down （immediately the organic reaction is that a lot of the water starts coming out the plant）and ironically , we are 80-85 percent water too, its kind of a cool thing we have in common with the plant .so if u re at abt 85% RH, u want to get it down to 55 or so as ur bottom maybe down to 50 % depending on ur style and what ur persosnl habits. Some people go a little lower and then rehydrate later,but what happens in the process is there's a whole bunch of things u want to get rid of excess chlorophyll or gases that are in the plant that dont really contribute to the cannabinoid profile or the terpenses profile.
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