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Stop Chronic Overfeeding, and some tips with canna coco

  • Thread starter Thread starter DowNwithDirT
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Stop Chronic Overfeeding, and some tips with canna coco

DowNwithDirT 244 Replies 216,663 Views
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No argueing here. Was simply responding and trying to add to the topic.anyway. that's a cool line they sorta mixed pura vida with an ocean water mineral supplement. I like how you basically feed a base and foliar anything extra. It's like bowling with bumpers.

That's taking a page out of the real bigboy books. Like food or flower production. Everything gets the same base and foliars are giving to anything with special needs. Stuper simple.
 
IMVHO< appears you would not be able to comprehend the information. Sometimes got to wonder why I waste any time with lying shit talkers. I guess I forgot that you thrive on exaggerating your experience on the intarnet....

I'm outta here till ledsled decides to clarify....since I'm now a lying shit talker who exaggerates his experiences......

That or mods can remove his posts from my thread which had no disrespect towards lead head.

If you believe that h202 is burning my roots then link me to said information/proff. Don't just start shit and call me name. You are incompetent and incapable of having a productive discussion.

And just because cap stated something about 3%...means nothing to me. 3% is store bought....I use 29% and dillute it far below even 1%. This helps to keep my rez clean, my drip lines clean, and keeps my root zone sterile.

As far as I understand the main reason people don't use it is its really only effective for an hour or two till most of the h202 has oxidized and is now h2o.
 
Yep, or light intensity. I think you can dial it in by measuring the delta b/w feed & runoff levels. That's a pretty good starting point.
 
Slurry tests using r/0 water came in at 300.


run off water going in at 500 came out at 600.

There ya go folks. Just did both test's on multiple plants of different strains.
 
I'm outta here till ledsled decides to clarify....since I'm now a lying shit talker who exaggerates his experiences......

That or mods can remove his posts from my thread which had no disrespect towards lead head.

If you believe that h202 is burning my roots then link me to said information/proff. Don't just start shit and call me name. You are incompetent and incapable of having a productive discussion.

And just because cap stated something about 3%...means nothing to me. 3% is store bought....I use 29% and dillute it far below even 1%. This helps to keep my rez clean, my drip lines clean, and keeps my root zone sterile.

As far as I understand the main reason people don't use it is its really only effective for an hour or two till most of the h202 has oxidized and is now h2o.

I recently used h202 for an infection and it saved my ass, so I am not against it. There is a lot of hype about using h202 for sterile roots, whiter roots etc. One thing I read though that makes sense to me is that h202 oxidizes roots, and damages fine root hairs. This will certainly not kill your plants, but it will keep them from operating at peak performance. I ran sterile for a long time. I used zone, I used bleach (bleach was awesome and that is what they use in commercial ag), I used hydrofungicide, and I have used physan....

My favorite so far is using beneficials, because they will keep your res free from pathogens, allow you to grow with warmer water (mo better for nute uptake), and they interact with the roots on a level still not fully understood by me, but visibly I can see the results with shorter cycles, fast growing, uber healthy plants.

My flower formula right now that I just started using at week 4 is:

jr peters jacks hydro : 2.5 grams/gal
yara liva al nitrate: 2.1 grams / gal
MKP (mono potassium phosphate): 0.4 grams/gal
K2SO4 (potassium sulfate 0-0-50): 1.2 grams/gal
Epsom salt: 1 gram/ gal
jacks MOST w/ sulfer: 0.2 grams/gal
CaCl2: 0.5 grams/gal

this is my week 3-6 mix

week 7/8 I have a different formula, that has more sulfur, and I cut this in half and add moab at 1tsp / 5 gal. then I flush for 1 week or so.

My veg formula right now is:

jacks hydro: 2.5 grams
cal nitrate 3.2 grams
MKP 0.1 gram
K2so4 0.1 gram
Epsom salt: 0.6 gram
MOST 0.2 gram
CaCl2 0.5gram


see attached for elemental ppms.

plants will only take up what they need, regardless of how much you give them. certain element to element ratios in the media/solution play a huge part in uptake as well. See mulders chart.
 

Attachments

No argueing here. Was simply responding and trying to add to the topic.anyway. that's a cool line they sorta mixed pura vida with an ocean water mineral supplement. I like how you basically feed a base and foliar anything extra. It's like bowling with bumpers.

That's taking a page out of the real bigboy books. Like food or flower production. Everything gets the same base and foliars are giving to anything with special needs. Stuper simple.

Love this concept.
 
hey cap not going to dip into all of that quite yet....but in my experience h202 does no harm fine root hairs except when using it at too high a dose. I just took pics of a bunch of cuts in cups with plenty of fine root hairs clearly visible. I will post them in a few hrs.

Care to sample me? make a believer and a promoter......
haha

As I stated earlier, I really only use h202 in small concentrations, and by no means every time. Zone is used most every time, after roots are established.
 
The more notes we take from big ag, the more successful we will be. Too many people buy in to the MJ hydro hype.

@ DWD, using salts is not complicated at all. It is easy, and will give you more control over your base. Plus, you know exactly what you are giving your plant and you will save potentially thousands in a given year. No more supplements needed, as supplements for the most part are just variations on the base.
 
I had no doubt your style works downwithdirt. There's a million different ways to grow it.

And IMO, none right, none wrong, there are a million ways to growing great weed, CoCo certainly being one of them. You just gotta do what works best for you and your garden.

outwest
 
hey cap not going to dip into all of that quite yet....but in my experience h202 does no harm fine root hairs except when using it at too high a dose. I just took pics of a bunch of cuts in cups with plenty of fine root hairs clearly visible. I will post them in a few hrs.

Care to sample me? make a believer and a promoter......
haha

As I stated earlier, I really only use h202 in small concentrations, and by no means every time. Zone is used most every time, after roots are established.

send me a pm I send samples.
 
I had no doubt your style works downwithdirt. There's a million different ways to grow it.


I agree 100%. Never said this was the only way....just sharing my personal experience....with COCO.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/rnd-3_go-crankin-out-that-fiyah.36754/

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...w-age-old-organics-og-lvpk-sd-tanghaze.32088/

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/dwds-4k-semi-organic-soil-headies.31711/

some soil I did under THIS handle........Like how people can talk down that have no idea.

I am downwithdirt right now......here that is.
I'd post my grows of dif styles but that would out my old sn's.
 
Oooosaaaaa oooooosaaaa. No one is insulting you garuntee ya. You've got skills. Now let's get back on topic.
 
Hey dewds, I posted a thread about making my own nutes w/ mineral salts to use with canna coco, in order to replace my canna nutes.

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...-nutes-to-use-w-canna-coco.48644/#post-853040

I have seen a lottt of information about mixing my own nutes, and greatly appreciate the info people like Cap have brought to the table! But despite all of my searching, I haven't stumbled easily upon a good nutrient profile that mimics canna's coco A+B/Cannazym/PK13/14, veg/flower feeding schedule. The closest I've gotten was a post from Lucas where I believe he estimates the values for a 5.7mL/gallon feeding, a 8mL/gallon feeding, and a 14mL + PK13/14 feeding.

"

canna coco 5.7a plus 5.7b (this is their baseline 3ml per liter formula), the highest dosage they recommend is 14ml/gal of canna coco A plus 14 of B). This mix (5.7ml/gal) is less than 1/3 strength of GH Flora Nova Bloom @8ml per gallon on the P, K and Mg..
N 87
P 30
K 43
Mg 17


canna coco 8/a and 8/b
121
42
60
24

Here is canna coco's strongest bloom mix, before the pk14 boost. it resembles the GH FloraNovaGrow recipe in its Nitrogen level
canna coco 14/a and 14/b
212
74
106
42

Here we see Canna Coco hitting hard with P and K
canna coco 14/a and 14/b plus 6ml pk13-14

212
177
317
42

pk 13-14 alone
0
103
212"

Can anyone confirm these PPM figures? I'd love to dive in, but I want ot make sure I can give my plants the happiness they've been getting with the canna nutes. I just refuse to keep paying money for something that's so basic.
 
The math behind all that is pretty basic though I've only worked it out for calcium. I'll do a full work up later tonight. Was planning on it anyways.
 
and very interesting about the warmer water comment for increased nutrient uptake, Cap... what temp are you talkin'? Ideal room temps?

that'd be sick DwD, I'm getting pretty comfortable calculating a lot of the salt equations, however I do need a little more guidance when it comes to converting values on the back of a nutrient bottle into workable PPM figures.
 
I have a few questions for you DWD... I ditched the boost myself.. What would you recommend as a mid flower booster? I'm using Moab wks 7-8 but don't know if I should use it 4-5? Also could you recommend a product that just has cal? Been using magical but I noticed some downward curl on 2 plants due to the extra N in magical... Thanks for any help.. If anyone else wants to spit some advice feel free!
 
Cal25 plus is a great calcium foliar. You can use moab in week one or two and normally you use it the 2 weeks prior to flush. Or you can do what I do and foliar all the way through with it. Boost is expensive however its kind of unique in the fact its a molasses and alfalfa mix. Lots of sulphur and nice big buds specially when used as foloar. Lots of foxtails. If your using a solid base nute you could always use something like duece duece forgo any other boosters then use moab at the end. There's really tons of options.
 
"

canna coco 5.7a plus 5.7b (this is their baseline 3ml per liter formula), the highest dosage they recommend is 14ml/gal of canna coco A plus 14 of B). This mix (5.7ml/gal) is less than 1/3 strength of GH Flora Nova Bloom @8ml per gallon on the P, K and Mg..
N 87
P 30
K 43
Mg 17


canna coco 8/a and 8/b
121
42
60
24

Here is canna coco's strongest bloom mix, before the pk14 boost. it resembles the GH FloraNovaGrow recipe in its Nitrogen level
canna coco 14/a and 14/b
212
74
106
42

Here we see Canna Coco hitting hard with P and K
canna coco 14/a and 14/b plus 6ml pk13-14

212
177
317
42

pk 13-14 alone
0
103
212"

Can anyone confirm these PPM figures? I'd love to dive in, but I want ot make sure I can give my plants the happiness they've been getting with the canna nutes. I just refuse to keep paying money for something that's so basic.


WOW I just did the math and these numbers are wayyyyy off. As far as I recall that post was made over 5 yrs ago or something no?...think I found it on ic dated to 2006. Pretty sure his figures were based on the flores line.

as we all know companies make changes and do not really notify or care to let customers know.....here we go.

3ml/gal of canna a + b = 200 ppm @ .5 conversion.

N 56
P 45
K 34
Ca 51
Mg 12.5

6ml/gal of canna a + b = 400 ppm @ .5 conversion

N 113
P 90
K 68
Ca 102
Mg 25

9ml/gal of canna a + b = 600 ppm @ .5 conversion

N 170
P 136
K 102
Ca 153
Mg 37

and for shits and giggles.....

14ml/gal of canna a + b = 900 ppm @ .5 conversion

N 255
P 204
K 153
Ca 229
Mg 56

Any one who can/wants to verify this math needs this info.

Canna a
nitrogen.....4%
potash........1%
calcium.......4.5%

Canna b
nitrogen.....1%
phosphate..4%
potash.........2%
mag.............1.1%
mbdm..........0.001%
 
cannastats would disagree with my numbers but the ppm's don't add up to what I actually get @ whatever ml per gal.
 
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