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Tea Recipe

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capulator
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2012
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Tea Recipe

Capulator Jan 10, 2012 1,732 Replies 371,728 Views
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Capulator

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#101
click80 said:
I wonder after keeping the tea in the fridge you can throw a little food in it and bubble for a few hours before watering to reinvigorate the bacteria.
Click to expand...

I would just use what you make. When the bacteria die, they do not come back to life, no matter how much food and oxygen you give them..
 
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dirk d

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#102
i just made my first batch of tea with caps bennies and did an undiluted foliar treatment to all the ladies about 2 days ago. they seemed to not mind. i'll let you guys know how they look after a couple weeks.

i used the root, foliar, and nute pack in the mix.
 
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click80

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#103
Capulator said:
I would just use what you make. When the bacteria die, they do not come back to life, no matter how much food and oxygen you give them..
Click to expand...

Okay...i should have said would they (any still living) remultiply. But, yeah I have been finally wrapping my head around it. Lots of good reading in here. I am working out a new schedule that will work and whatever is left I will throw some Nute pack into for about an hour and then go spray it on lawn.
 
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click80

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#104
can you add in too rich of a mix? I skimmed when reading and in my mind I saw 1 gallon tea to 10 gallons water. Did I screw up? What are the possible ramifications? Will they compete for food and then the just die???? I was jumping back and forth from the Hydro sticky to the Soil thread and back here and got all mixed up. Also, the tea recipe is for soil and hydro right?
 
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liketosmoke

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#105
click80 said:
can you add in too rich of a mix? I skimmed when reading and in my mind I saw 1 gallon tea to 10 gallons water. Did I screw up? What are the possible ramifications? Will they compete for food and then the just die???? I was jumping back and forth from the Hydro sticky to the Soil thread and back here and got all mixed up. Also, the tea recipe is for soil and hydro right?
Click to expand...
no it wont burn them take your time and read caps post on how to mix.this is the basic.
1) Add 4 TABLESPOONS of each capulators root and foliar in a 5 gallon bucket.

2) Fill 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of RO or distilled water.
Add 50 - 100 ml of liquid carboload, sweet raw, hibrix, regular black strap molasses, or any other liquid carb product of your choice.

3) Fill a stocking with a couple handfuls of earth worm castings. Tie this off and let it float in the solution like a tea bag.

4) Bubble with an air stone and air pump for 24 hours.
Strain again with a cheesecloth, or let settle and take off the top.

5) Dilute 1-2 cups per 10 gallons and add to the reservoir, or use as an individual drench. This works GREAT in a turbo or easy cloner, or even on your cuttings in a dome.
 
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dirk d

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#106
Here's some shots of my foam from my vortex brewer
 
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click80

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#107
That was what else I was wondering, the tea recipe if for soil also right? I am pretty sure it is, it's just that the thread titled Pack instructions For Soil Users just gives it for when you add to water and use immediately. In the tea instructions it says to strain and add to reservoir, or as an individual drench. I didn't know if that meant for Hydro users doing an individual crown drench, or for soil users I am pretty sure it applies to soil also, but I need to be sure, the reason I want to be certain is that I am typing up a set of instructions that will cover all the different instructions to cover all rates by application methods (instant use and tea use) and for different systems and media. It's not just for me but for some friends that I am ordering for and haven't used microbes or teas before, so I want to be accurate when I show them how to make teas etc.... I have found most instructions to cover most situations in three threads, this thread for tea, the thread: Pack Instructions For Hydro Users, and the other one that is titled: Pack Instructions For Soil Users. If I have missed any I would welcome some directions to other threads. I am just needing the basics though and I think those three cover that.
 
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Capulator

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#108
click80 said:
That was what else I was wondering, the tea recipe if for soil also right? I am pretty sure it is, it's just that the thread titled Pack instructions For Soil Users just gives it for when you add to water and use immediately. In the tea instructions it says to strain and add to reservoir, or as an individual drench. I didn't know if that meant for Hydro users doing an individual crown drench, or for soil users I am pretty sure it applies to soil also, but I need to be sure, the reason I want to be certain is that I am typing up a set of instructions that will cover all the different instructions to cover all rates by application methods (instant use and tea use) and for different systems and media. It's not just for me but for some friends that I am ordering for and haven't used microbes or teas before, so I want to be accurate when I show them how to make teas etc.... I have found most instructions to cover most situations in three threads, this thread for tea, the thread: Pack Instructions For Hydro Users, and the other one that is titled: Pack Instructions For Soil Users. If I have missed any I would welcome some directions to other threads. I am just needing the basics though and I think those three cover that.
Click to expand...

The nute pack is best applied as a powder mixed in with the soil or coco prior to transplant at the rate of 1/2-1 teaspoon per gallon. You can probably use even less, since we put 100 spores/gram of each species, but you also cant overdue it.

The tea... foliar and root is perfect. You can add the nute pack as well but the mychorrizae only come out of stasis in the presence of plant roots, and are better mixed in than watered in, BUT you can water them in and they are still effective.

Do not use the nute pack on straight hydroton, rockwool, or aeroponics, RDWC, etc.. (straight hydro). It has been suggested that mychorrhizae may actually drain plants of necessary carbon if the plants are in an environment where there is ample water and nutrients.

Do not run phosphorus ppms higher than 50 if possible when using the nute pack, as HIGH P will slow and stop the colonization of mycos.
 
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Capulator

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#109
dirk d said:
View attachment 206898View attachment 206899 Here's some shots of my foam from my vortex brewer
Click to expand...


NICE foam!
 
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Capulator

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#110
click80 said:
can you add in too rich of a mix? I skimmed when reading and in my mind I saw 1 gallon tea to 10 gallons water. Did I screw up? What are the possible ramifications? Will they compete for food and then the just die???? I was jumping back and forth from the Hydro sticky to the Soil thread and back here and got all mixed up. Also, the tea recipe is for soil and hydro right?
Click to expand...


You cannot overdue it. dont worry.
 
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click80

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#111
thank you...I also wondered about adding Alaskan Humisoil. I have it left from a Bountea Kit. My understanding is that when you brew the Bountea, and all you use is the Bioactivator, humic, Yucca Shidgera (sp), and Dry Molasses is all that is in that, and the Humisoil that the Humisoil is your source of microbes. So I guess you are brewing and growing microbes from the Humisoil. Do you think the microbes in the Humisoil compete or maybe complement your bennies, or maybe mess the balance up? Or is that a tuff one to answer until after you start scoping and seeing different results?
 
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#112
im currently stealing aliens tea recipe, its in the caps packs testimonial thread, it has the alskan humisoil in, so far its working great, making my 2nd batch today
 
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click80

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#113
Thanks... that recipe is the exact reason I was asking...the Bountea type Humisoil worked no miracles, but it did definitely help. Not in as comprehensive a manner as Cap's though I am sure. I would think they would complement each other.
 
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Capulator

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#114
kushtrees said:
im currently stealing aliens tea recipe, its in the caps packs testimonial thread, it has the alskan humisoil in, so far its working great, making my 2nd batch today
Click to expand...


Aliens recipe is killing it for him. I have not tried it, but I certainly won't argue against it.
 
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click80

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#115
I took your tea to a friend yesterday. I had given her 30 of the Pineapple Express clones. She had taken her kids on vaca for Spring Break and had some dip watching her plants for her. She got back and called me freaking out. Plants were so bizarre looking with many different deficiency signs, and stress signs.

Found HUGE fungus gnat larvae infection. Treated with tea. I think it is going to save them. Will update.
 
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Capulator

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#116
sounds like nobody was taking care of her plants. that sucks.
 
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Capulator

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#117
On humic acid:

"The activities of beneficial soil microbes are crucial for the sustainability of any soil and plant growth. Humic acid stimulates microbial activity by providing the indigenous microbes with a carbon source for food, thus encouraging their growth and activity. Soil microbes are responsible for solubilizing vital nutrients such as phosphorus that can then be absorbed by the humic acid and in turn made available to the plant. Additionally, microbes are responsible for the continued development of humus in the soil as it continues to break down not fully decomposed organic matter. This in-situ production of humus continues to naturally add to the humic acid base and its benefit"
 
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Capulator

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#118
here is the 175 page heisenberg thread if anyone is interested. .



The packs I have are exceptionally diverse. We have now over 20 species in the root pack, and the foliar pack is unmatched. The two together in a tea are the best way I have found to battle bugs and pathogens in any system soil or hydro, and I have been at this about 15 years now.
 
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click80

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#119
Capulator said:
here is the 175 page heisenberg thread if anyone is interested. .



The packs I have are exceptionally diverse. We have now over 20 species in the root pack, and the foliar pack is unmatched. The two together in a tea are the best way I have found to battle bugs and pathogens in any system soil or hydro, and I have been at this about 15 years now.
Click to expand...

I got a 404 from that link. Would be interested in reading that.


sounds like nobody was taking care of her plants. that sucks.
Click to expand...

Yeah. It does suck, but since now i know the proper dilution I am like wanting to spread tea around everywhere. I even went over to the neighbors and got them to use some on their porch tomato seedlings.

I am really into this microbe world. So effing interesting.
 
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click80

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#120
Just read an article about some of the gen. modified seed thing. They managed to identify and take the gene from Bacillus Thuirengensis that produces the protein that is toxic to certain insects and inserted it into the seed genes? Instead of just using sustainable Ag practices and Integrated Crop Management for insects, which would produce jobs, just one of many benefits, and would not scare the population because of unknown consequences down the road they choose instead, so they can own the patent on these seeds, to do it genetically. So sad.
 
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Thread info

Replies 1,732
Views 371,728
Started Jan 10, 2012
Latest post Mar 18, 2020
Starter Capulator
Forum Nutrients and Fertilizers

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