Terps House

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nMEEKS

nMEEKS

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Do you think the reduced solubility is something to worry about? I agree about keeping them separate if possible but he said he's only using 3 dosers plus one for pH. Would you increase the concentration of micros to make up for it? I'd think with chelated micros it'd be fine, but I'd like your opinion as well.

Also, you mentioned making a concentrate bottle and then pouring that into a main tank? Wouldn't he just siphon straight from the concentrate bottles w/ the dosers?

The micros will mix in just fine with any other component, even in high concentration, but it is always best to avoid any scenario where solubility is even in question, and reduced solubility could potentially lead to residues clogging filters or lines, which is never good.

As for what I was trying to describe when I mentioned mixing a smaller tank first to help with dissolving, I must not have said that clearly enough, but @Savage Henry understood me and said it in some other words for me to maybe help you guys understand what I was trying to say:

If I may chime in, some salts are difficult to get fully dissolved, especially in large quantities in a large resevoir or stock tank. In practice I've come to mix them in the amount bound for a larger volume of water in 2-3 gals of water (0.0ec). You get a paint stirrer and attach it to a drill and whip em in the small container until dissolved, then pour it into the final volume.

But, as I said, some are more difficult than others. Calnit dissolves super easy whereas k2so4 is a bitch. There's a chart floating around somewhere (maybe science in hydroponics) that outlines maximum solubility of salts.

My experience with dosers has always been in large gardens, so that advice it really directed at concentrate tanks that are too large to shake or stir easily (20gal+), but it sounds like the tanks for concentrate solution being used in this garden are only 5 gallon, which would be easily mixed and shouldnt need any preliminary mixing.



(This post is technically my 1000th comment! I hope no one minds a quick photo bomb on this thread to celebrate, the 1600+ plants in this room are all fed for a total cost of 50 cents worth of nutrients each day, using nothing but the dry salt recipe I have outlined in past posts!)
 
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Spectre

Spectre

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(This post is technically my 1000th comment! I hope no one minds a quick photo bomb on this thread to celebrate, the 1600+ plants in this room are all fed for a total cost of 50 cents worth of nutrients each day, using nothing but the dry salt recipe I have outlined in past posts!)

They look great. Are you referring to your 100-80-100 recipe?
 
nMEEKS

nMEEKS

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They look great. Are you referring to your 100-80-100 recipe?
Thats correct, but remember that this recipe is a little less about PPM and a bit more about ratios between inputs. In veg I run the same input ratios, but cut the strength down to 70-80% by diluting with more water, and in bloom I tweak the levels of Nitrogen or Potassium or the ratio between Ca and Mg by nudging individual inputs up and down, to shift the ratio. You are refering to the correct recipe when its run at full strength and base levels, but just incase, here it is again in its baseline form as per gallon amounts:
1.33g MKP
0.1g MOST
0.1g Chelated Fe EDDHA
1.6g Epsom
2.44g Cal-Nit
Which gives you 100-80-100-117-40 N-P-K-Ca-Mg (~740ppm) (Cost ~1.5cents/gallon)
 
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The Terps

The Terps

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Well guys as some of you may know I'm an avid fly fisherman and it's steelhead season so sorry for being inactive but I have fish fever. Things are ok harvest the 9 light things looked ok quality wise probably a b- grade on what's not absolute crap. The 8 light is looking much better yeild and quality wise. And the 6 lighter is coming along but won't shake the stress from the Ac failure
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took clones for the 9 lighter I have clones rooted and ready for the 8 as it dries at a seperate location. Will take clones for the 6 lighter in 3-4 days. I'll do some rounds soon and get pics of everything this week.
 
The Terps

The Terps

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Ok guys I could use some help with salts which have arrived and I have been tank mixing in a 5 gal bucket for the veg room plants which are responding well. So I want to be able to adjust my phosphorus mostly (I think) in the flower room dosatron setup. So I was thinking kinda a two stage program flower week 1-3 low on p to reduce stretch and then 4-flush a higher p-k ratio with most everything else n-ca-mg-si staying consistent.

I'll go do some reading right now but I think I want to do this. In order of dosers. Ph adjuster, si, everything else, cal nitrate. Then the everything else stock tank will be switched from "stretch formula" to "swell formula" Does this seem logical?
 
The Terps

The Terps

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Ok guys I was having a self doubt attack in that last post lol. I was conserned about all this mixing and math. I read a bunch and learnt nothing that I was after then I reverted back and reviewed my original plan, smoked a bowl looked at a doser and then realized... all those times I wished I dosatron made their unit in ml cause I don't relate to % and ratios. Then the light bulb clicked. And it's in ratios lol and now mixing salts will be easier than adding a and b to a barrel
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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Ok guys I was having a self doubt attack in that last post lol. I was conserned about all this mixing and math. I read a bunch and learnt nothing that I was after then I reverted back and reviewed my original plan, smoked a bowl looked at a doser and then realized... all those times I wished I dosatron made their unit in ml cause I don't relate to % and ratios. Then the light bulb clicked. And it's in ratios lol and now mixing salts will be easier than adding a and b to a barrel

Fuckin' a man, that's the best approach. Take a step back, take a breather. Cool thing about salts and math is they are what they are, no unknown variables.
 
The Terps

The Terps

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So tonight I'll be harvesting the 8 light and I'll try and remember to snap a pre harvest pic. Then tomorrow the pots will get removed and I will try and build beds in their and get it filled up and replanted end of Wednesday
 
The Terps

The Terps

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The plants that are going in to replace the 8 light and some root porn.
The 9 light room will be done drying and replanted on Thursday if all goes as planned. gg4 will be going in 9 light. 8 light will be half gg4 half Chemdog 91
 
The Terps

The Terps

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Well I forgot to take the pre harvest pic. I haven't started using the meek formula yet as I still have eneough mills to finish out the sherbert the 9 lighter will stay on mills this run as a control as I've had so many issues there. And I'm pretty sure I'll start the 8 light on Meeks formula in the next week
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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Awesome, I'm working through my last couple lbs of jacks hydro over here, been thinking of switching to that formula once I run out, as I'll have a grip of Epsom and calnit left.

Stoked to see how it works for you, if it's anything like jacks it should be real easy to get dialed.
 
The Terps

The Terps

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Will be planted tomorrow morning once I manage to wake up it was a LONG night and a longer day so I'll be sleeping in. Will plant the 9 lighter day after granted the stuff is dry
 
The Terps

The Terps

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@nMEEKS i have a question that I imagine you are overqualified to answer. So with my beds in regards to gypsum. How often should I reapply? I was thinking after every third grow or maybe once a year?
 
Foxlink

Foxlink

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Looking great Terp :) can't wait till the ladies grow bigger! =^_^=
-Fox
 
nMEEKS

nMEEKS

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@nMEEKS i have a question that I imagine you are overqualified to answer. So with my beds in regards to gypsum. How often should I reapply? I was thinking after every third grow or maybe once a year?
Good question, two part answer.

First off, coco coir is fantastic as a long term media in a constant growing environment such as cut flower Rose production. In that system, basket or trough planted perennial rose plants are able to be grown in good condition without any yield loss for up to 7 years, and technically can continue to grow with some quality and yield loss for as long as 10 years! One of the keys to this however is that rose plants, being perennial, are not fully harvested and replanted, it is the exact same plant, having its long stem flowers harvested from the top, but the bush and root system itself never gets harvested. So, you might be wondering why the hell I'm talking about roses, but the key difference that I am trying to highlight is that Cannabis is almost always grown as an annual, not a perennial, meaning that it gets fully harvested when the flowering crop reaches maturity. Because you are harvesting the whole plant and adding new ones that need full access to your environmental resources to succeed again, it is important to remove all the left over growth from your growing system between each cycle, so there isn't any decaying or slowly regenerating plant material left in your grow space (above or below the media line). As I'm sure you have seen in previous cannabis grows, the root system this wonderful plant is able to produce is no joke, being extremely fibrous, dense, and wide reaching. Which means that when it comes harvest time in a bed planting environment, a large majority of your media will be removed during the process of removing unwanted plant/root material before your next cycle. So, while coco coir can easily maintain its great growing properties for years, the volume of coco coir that will be left in your growing beds after each harvest will be substantially reduced. All this heavy detail aside, the point I am trying to make is that you will want to amend each new batch of coco coir that you add to your beds every cycle, but the coco that is left over should still be ready to rock and roll once all the debris is removed.

Part two: As with anything in growing, adaptation to your own garden environment and plant demand is key to success. If you are seeing an excess of calcium deficiency during any cycle, the answer is obviously to upgrade your media before the next round. Whether than means just incorporating more gypsum or other amendments, or starting with fresh coco coir is up to you, your budget, and how severe the issue you are seeing is. And of course, always always ditch your media and start fresh if you encounter or are concerned about a root disease or root pest of any kind, replant disorder is a real thing, and is caused by planting a plant that is susceptible to the same diseases and/or pests that the previous crop would have fostered.

Good luck and as a side note, if during one of your cycles you do start to see any calcium deficiency and want to do something for that crop, rather than just waiting to fix it the next round, I liked to use a product called 'Liquid Calcium' by DownToEarth as a foliar in situations of extreme need.


*EDIT* also as a side note, consider that a nutrient deficiency symptom is not always caused by a lack of availability for that nutrient. Phosphorus and zinc tend to lock up in the media when the ground is cold, uncommon in indoor grows, but common outdoors or if you have fabric pots on a cold basement floor in the winter. In the case of calcium, the relative humidity in your grow environment can inhibit calcium uptake and movement throughout the plant if it gets too high, which can sometimes happen without enough dehum. running during your peak growth timings, especially when growing with beds since they dramatically increase your evapotraspiration rate. Just food for thought, didn't want to pass it off like the media is the problem in every case that a problem arises.
 
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The Terps

The Terps

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The mother room at the nine lighter those are two sunsytem 315s I bought them to veg clones to be thrown into the flower room but currently the Sherbert moms are hanging out under them once I have. Clones for the next round those plants will be moved under a t5
 

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