The Perfect Led Grow Light / Lite

[JWM2]

I don’t know how well it would work but my thought was to have the leds on the quantum boards angled. Sort of like a directional pad on a game controller. Where one side of the led would be higher than the other so as to provide some angular light penetration. It wouldn’t be side lighting but it might penetrate the canopy further. Again not sure how well it would work or anything.

 

[Smoking Gun]

I don’t know how well it would work but my thought was to have the leds on the quantum boards angled. Sort of like a directional pad on a game controller. Where one side of the led would be higher than the other so as to provide some angular light penetration. It wouldn’t be side lighting but it might penetrate the canopy further. Again not sure how well it would work or anything.

I knew that is what you were describing, ultimately it is still top lighting that will move relative to the overhead light. Fluence units allow for some angular lighting, but it doesn't really seem to me that it would make that much difference. I would rather have straight side lighting or even lighting from the bottom up.

 

[JWM2]

I knew that is what you were describing, ultimately it is still top lighting that will move relative to the overhead light. Fluence units allow for some angular lighting, but it doesn't really seem to me that it would make that much difference. I would rather have straight side lighting or even lighting from the bottom up.

Yeah was just a thought. No idea how well it would work it would also need to be run closer to the canopy. Was just thinking out loud :-)

 

[hillbil]

My white LEDs and COBs grow green leaves and buds very deep into the plant with multiple light sources. Very little deep dark shade under the plants because of many individual light sources. I assume Boards and strips would be similar.

My lights are not even the newest most efficient but still grows great herb and just not quite enough performance gap to update from where I am. New lighting available that is simpler and more efficient without active cooling and cheaper. Been using a couple over 5 years. No issues.

 

[Rootbound]

My white LEDs and COBs grow green leaves and buds very deep into the plant with multiple light sources. Very little deep dark shade under the plants because of many individual light sources. I assume Boards and strips would be similar.

My lights are not even the newest most efficient but still grows great herb and just not quite enough performance gap to update from where I am. New lighting available that is simpler and more efficient without active cooling and cheaper. Been using a couple over 5 years. No issues.

Couldnt agree more. I moved from cobs to HLG Quantum 288 boards for a more even spread due to my cob configuration. The penetration of light is so much better than the CMH or HPS I was using and I keep my QB's 20"+ away from the canopy.

 

[JWM2]

Couldnt agree more. I moved from cobs to HLG Quantum boards a more even spread due to my cob configuration. The penetration of light is so much better than the CMH or HPS I was using and I keep my QB's 20"+ away from the canopy.

Yes my suggestion is an improvement over the current board design to get the light to cover even more of the canopy and use the existing leds more efficiently. Instead of pointing straight down it would point in all downward directions to achieve even coverage over your entire bud bs just the tops of them. It’s hard to explain. Maybe I’ll mark up an image to illustrate it.

 

[JWM2]

 

[New school]

View attachment 856372

Your first diagram light doesn't work like that you'd need very focused reflectors on each led to even come close to your diagram. Leds without reflectors or lenses radiate in basically a bulls eye. Qbs basically just have a larger center.

 

[JWM2]

Like I said I was just thinking out loud. Trying to think outside the box. I have no way of testing this or have any inkling to do so. I use quantum boards and are happy with them I was just proposing a possible solution for the sake of passing time. This thread was started to get people’s opinions about the current state of LED technology and the lights currently available today and how they can be improved to provide better results. I still think there’s got to be something that can further optimize what’s being used im just not sure what and so I made the proposal to get the gears moving and maybe spark further ingenuity in the discussion. Don’t get me wrong i don’t think we are going to come up with a revolutionary new technology or anything on some random cannabis forum. Just want to get feedback from others who want to exercise their mind and come up with a solution.

 

[New school]

Like I said I was just thinking out loud. Trying to think outside the box. I have no way of testing this or have any inkling to do so. I use quantum boards and are happy with them I was just proposing a possible solution for the sake of passing time. This thread was started to get people’s opinions about the current state of LED technology and the lights currently available today and how they can be improved to provide better results. I still think there’s got to be something that can further optimize what’s being used im just not sure what and so I made the proposal to get the gears moving and maybe spark further ingenuity in the discussion. Don’t get me wrong i don’t think we are going to come up with a revolutionary new technology or anything on some random cannabis forum. Just want to get feedback from others who want to exercise their mind and come up with a solution.

I'm more of the opinion that spectrum needs to change almost daily and throughout the day as in nature. See post #62

 

[hillbil]

I'm more of the opinion that spectrum needs to change almost daily and throughout the day as in nature. See post #62

Don’t think it is necessary to be that precise. Think of tropical environments where there is little variation of sun angle to even affect spectrum and many landrace plants have lived and evolved. Cloudy days get the k value way up by filtering red light.

So if we focus on supplying light somewhat similar to solar light, I think we’re okay. Light from COBs and Boards is a very wide spectrum that we can choose preferred k values.

 

[Homesteader]

This light is a 925 watt build that I just finished. I am a believer that targeting spectrum can increase the efficiency of your grow by not wasting electricity on light that your plant doesn't want as much. This is why I focus on red light with cannabis. 3000k with 660nm overlap

 

[MIMedGrower]

This light is a 925 watt build that I just finished. I am a believer that targeting spectrum can increase the efficiency of your grow by not wasting electricity on light that your plant doesn't want as much. This is why I focus on red light with cannabis. 3000k with 660nm overlapView attachment 856428

What kind of lights used? Looks awesome.

 

[Homesteader]

Osram SSL80s and SSL 120s. The 80 and 120 refers to the silicone dome used and how many degrees they push out. I used the 120 degree in red for the center and the 3000k have 80 degree domes.
The Osrams end up costing about 70cents each when you buy in bulk (600+ tape) and are weaker than some of the top of the line Cree emitters you can buy but they are three times cheaper so Ill take the 10% reduction in output to cut cost anyday.

I am getting about 1700-1800 umol at 18", So I think I could probably hang these at 30" and get really decent coverage with a fairly wide area.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Osram SSL80s and SSL 120s. The 80 and 120 refers to the silicone dome used and how many degrees they push out. I used the 120 degree in red for the center and the 3000k have 80 degree domes.
The Osrams end up costing about 70cents each when you buy in bulk (600+ tape) and are weaker than some of the top of the line Cree emitters you can buy but they are three times cheaper so Ill take the 10% reduction in output to cut cost anyday.

I am getting about 1700-1800 umol at 18", So I think I could probably hang these at 30" and get really decent coverage with a fairly wide area.

Wow. Very creative!

 

[Homesteader]

One thing that is overlooked often about Meanwell drivers is that they have a thermal shutoff built into the drivers which can be a light saver as well as a plant saver. This is done with resettable thermal fuses. I honestly would not build a light without a quality driver partly because of this alone.

Resettable thermal fuses – The resettable fuse disconnects the current at the preset temperature and then resets when the temperatures resumes to normal. The fuse is made of a temperature sensitive bimetallic strip which is usually closed during normal operation. When the temperature rises, one of the strips expands and bends away from the other one. This caused the contact to open, hence disconnecting the circuit and prevent further heating. Once the temperature goes down, the strips fall back together and current starts flowing again.

 

[JWM2]

One thing that is overlooked often about Meanwell drivers is that they have a thermal shutoff built into the drivers which can be a light saver as well as a plant saver. This is done with resettable thermal fuses. I honestly would not build a light without a quality driver partly because of this alone.

Resettable thermal fuses – The resettable fuse disconnects the current at the preset temperature and then resets when the temperatures resumes to normal. The fuse is made of a temperature sensitive bimetallic strip which is usually closed during normal operation. When the temperature rises, one of the strips expands and bends away from the other one. This caused the contact to open, hence disconnecting the circuit and prevent further heating. Once the temperature goes down, the strips fall back together and current starts flowing again.

Very cool. Had no idea about the thermal shut off. Couldn’t those be applied to any driver though by external means? Seems like it would be a good idea in any grow.

 

[Homesteader]

Very cool. Had no idea about the thermal shut off. Couldn’t those be applied to any driver though by external means? Seems like it would be a good idea in any grow.

I think you could but considering that much of your heat is coming from the internals of the driver, that would probably be the best place to have the shutoff. I have seen them on the heatsink itself too, but just an extra step that isnt needed if using meanwells

 

[JWM2]

I think you could but considering that much of your heat is coming from the internals of the driver, that would probably be the best place to have the shutoff. I have seen them on the heatsink itself too, but just an extra step that isnt needed if using meanwells

True. So is it inside the Meanwell? I’m running qb288’s with a Meanwell driver so I’m just curious. Great info bro!

Reason I ask is cuz I have a CR-10 3d printer with a cheap driver. I could upgrade it to a Meanwell driver but haven’t yet. So I might do so just for the added protection. I run prints sometimes when I’m not home so the peace of mind would be worth it IMO.

 

[Homesteader]

I know the HLG series has them and assume anything bigger would as well but I'm not sure on the smaller units with lower voltage. Once you get too large I think they switch to non-re-settable fuses that would need to be replaced if broken but that would be large units I assume. They probably have a data sheet for a particular driver that you could download to make sure.
https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/glossary/what-is-thermal-protection/