I don’t know how well it would work but my thought was to have the leds on the quantum boards angled. Sort of like a directional pad on a game controller. Where one side of the led would be higher than the other so as to provide some angular light penetration. It wouldn’t be side lighting but it might penetrate the canopy further. Again not sure how well it would work or anything.
I knew that is what you were describing, ultimately it is still top lighting that will move relative to the overhead light. Fluence units allow for some angular lighting, but it doesn't really seem to me that it would make that much difference. I would rather have straight side lighting or even lighting from the bottom up.
Couldnt agree more. I moved from cobs to HLG Quantum 288 boards for a more even spread due to my cob configuration. The penetration of light is so much better than the CMH or HPS I was using and I keep my QB's 20"+ away from the canopy.My white LEDs and COBs grow green leaves and buds very deep into the plant with multiple light sources. Very little deep dark shade under the plants because of many individual light sources. I assume Boards and strips would be similar.
My lights are not even the newest most efficient but still grows great herb and just not quite enough performance gap to update from where I am. New lighting available that is simpler and more efficient without active cooling and cheaper. Been using a couple over 5 years. No issues.
Couldnt agree more. I moved from cobs to HLG Quantum boards a more even spread due to my cob configuration. The penetration of light is so much better than the CMH or HPS I was using and I keep my QB's 20"+ away from the canopy.
I'm more of the opinion that spectrum needs to change almost daily and throughout the day as in nature. See post #62Like I said I was just thinking out loud. Trying to think outside the box. I have no way of testing this or have any inkling to do so. I use quantum boards and are happy with them I was just proposing a possible solution for the sake of passing time. This thread was started to get people’s opinions about the current state of LED technology and the lights currently available today and how they can be improved to provide better results. I still think there’s got to be something that can further optimize what’s being used im just not sure what and so I made the proposal to get the gears moving and maybe spark further ingenuity in the discussion. Don’t get me wrong i don’t think we are going to come up with a revolutionary new technology or anything on some random cannabis forum. Just want to get feedback from others who want to exercise their mind and come up with a solution.
Don’t think it is necessary to be that precise. Think of tropical environments where there is little variation of sun angle to even affect spectrum and many landrace plants have lived and evolved. Cloudy days get the k value way up by filtering red light.I'm more of the opinion that spectrum needs to change almost daily and throughout the day as in nature. See post #62
This light is a 925 watt build that I just finished. I am a believer that targeting spectrum can increase the efficiency of your grow by not wasting electricity on light that your plant doesn't want as much. This is why I focus on red light with cannabis. 3000k with 660nm overlapView attachment 856428
Osram SSL80s and SSL 120s. The 80 and 120 refers to the silicone dome used and how many degrees they push out. I used the 120 degree in red for the center and the 3000k have 80 degree domes.
The Osrams end up costing about 70cents each when you buy in bulk (600+ tape) and are weaker than some of the top of the line Cree emitters you can buy but they are three times cheaper so Ill take the 10% reduction in output to cut cost anyday.
I am getting about 1700-1800 umol at 18", So I think I could probably hang these at 30" and get really decent coverage with a fairly wide area.
One thing that is overlooked often about Meanwell drivers is that they have a thermal shutoff built into the drivers which can be a light saver as well as a plant saver. This is done with resettable thermal fuses. I honestly would not build a light without a quality driver partly because of this alone.
Resettable thermal fuses – The resettable fuse disconnects the current at the preset temperature and then resets when the temperatures resumes to normal. The fuse is made of a temperature sensitive bimetallic strip which is usually closed during normal operation. When the temperature rises, one of the strips expands and bends away from the other one. This caused the contact to open, hence disconnecting the circuit and prevent further heating. Once the temperature goes down, the strips fall back together and current starts flowing again.
I think you could but considering that much of your heat is coming from the internals of the driver, that would probably be the best place to have the shutoff. I have seen them on the heatsink itself too, but just an extra step that isnt needed if using meanwellsVery cool. Had no idea about the thermal shut off. Couldn’t those be applied to any driver though by external means? Seems like it would be a good idea in any grow.
I think you could but considering that much of your heat is coming from the internals of the driver, that would probably be the best place to have the shutoff. I have seen them on the heatsink itself too, but just an extra step that isnt needed if using meanwells
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