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This Be How Dirbag Do...

No need to try it @Dirtbag this round is soil and likely after that I will go coco. I have the first version So it's a bit different I think. And as we all know mega crop is what I run and what was used in the hydro system that those pics I posted are...
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This Be How Dirbag Do...

by Dirtbag · Started Feb 27, 2019
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Dirtbag

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#1,101
Aqua Man said:
No need to try it @Dirtbag this round is soil and likely after that I will go coco. I have the first version So it's a bit different I think. And as we all know mega crop is what I run and what was used in the hydro system that those pics I posted are from. I never seen the issues of sediment and maybe that's because it's version 1? I think base nute choices should be based on what additives you plan on using. This is where making your own comes in handy AF but I'm over that. As it can be tedious trying to get all the individual sources at times and I'm getting lazy in my older years.

I still gladly take it off ya for cost bro
Click to expand...

Yeah I have V3. But it came in a V2 bag. In discussion with the company I really grew to dislike them in general with their repackaging and nonsense excuses for the sediment. And they were rude. lol

Also in coco I believe it would have too much potassium, especially for the last part of flower when the coco really starts to release potassium as it breaks down. It's one media where you actually want the P and K numbers pretty close to each other. It's the reason I'll be transitioning back to the soil bloom at the end, not so much to boost P as it is to lower K.
 
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jaguarlax

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Aqua Man said:
Yeah hygrowzyme is what I use but I'm open to options if there is something better. I honestly can't say a bad thing about mega crop. The results mean more to me than the claims made or clumping issues.
Click to expand...

Its way more complete than most out there as a base imo. Chitosan and Silica in the mix save money right there.
 
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#1,103
Dirtbag said:
Yeah I have V3. But it came in a V2 bag. In discussion with the company I really grew to dislike them in general with their repackaging and nonsense excuses for the sediment. And they were rude. lol

Also in coco I believe it would have too much potassium, especially for the last part of flower when the coco really starts to release potassium as it breaks down. It's one media where you actually want the P and K numbers pretty close to each other. It's the reason I'll be transitioning back to the soil bloom at the end, not so much to boost P as it is to lower K.
Click to expand...
You make a valid argument there. It is pretty high K. I wonder with enzymes if it would be an issue... I guess I will find out when the time comes.
 
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Dirtbag

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Yeah, maybe I'm an old skeptic but I'm doubtful of some of mega crops claims ... Some things are best kept seperate and mixed independantly into a diluted solution. I cant see cramming enzymes and silica and gypsum and calmag and macro and micronutrients all into a bag and expecting it all to perform as advertised. Enzymes last forever in the right environment, but I dont know if a bag of salt counts?
 
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Dirtbag said:
Yeah, maybe I'm an old skeptic but I'm doubtful of some of mega crops claims ... Some things are best kept seperate and mixed independantly into a diluted solution. I cant see cramming enzymes and silica and gypsum and calmag and macro and micronutrients all into a bag and expecting it all to perform as advertised. Enzymes last forever in the right environment, but I dont know if a bag of salt counts?
Click to expand...
I can't answer and I will continue to add enzymes. I know they can dry out and be reactivated but I honestly haven't done much research or have much knowledge on enzymes themselves... More so bacteria that produce them. Let see what I can find quick on that.
 
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Dirtbag said:
Yeah I have V3. But it came in a V2 bag. In discussion with the company I really grew to dislike them in general with their repackaging and nonsense excuses for the sediment. And they were rude. lol

Also in coco I believe it would have too much potassium, especially for the last part of flower when the coco really starts to release potassium as it breaks down. It's one media where you actually want the P and K numbers pretty close to each other. It's the reason I'll be transitioning back to the soil bloom at the end, not so much to boost P as it is to lower K.
Click to expand...


The bruce bugby university of utah vids where he now has hemp grow chambers and consults with med marijiana growers say to use 2-1-2 all the way through.

I figure the foliage pro with their potassium silica would round that out real close.
 
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#1,107
So yeah once denatured they are done. I would think they would not do well added into a dry feet when exposed to high salinity
 
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#1,108
MIMedGrower said:
The bruce bugby university of utah vids where he now has hemp grow chambers and consults with med marijiana growers say to use 2-1-2 all the way through.

I figure the foliage pro with their potassium silica would round that out real close.
Click to expand...
Mega crop basically 2-1-3. I feel personally most ferts are in the same league. It's just how bad we fuck them up with different additives. Also bacteria need food sources. In purely synthetic for the most part that missing so some organics need to be added. In hydro and I would say soiless we want to minimally add some organics. I feel mega crop has a good mix in this area to provide minimal amounts... I mean we can always add but it's no secret the amount of food will essentially determine the overall population. I would say enzymes in this are are much more beneficial because we don't need to keep thriving bacterial colonies to get thier benefits.

In soil with organics there would be no need for enzymes imo.
 
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Dirtbag

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#1,109
Aqua Man said:
So yeah once denatured they are done. I would think they would not do well added into a dry feet when exposed to high salinity
Click to expand...
That's what I'm thinking. With brewing I had a 10 degree temperature window to convert starch to sugar. Go 5 degrees too high and the enzymes denature and your mash doesnt convert.

Enzymes are actually pretty fragile and are very temperature specific. and several things can denature them to the point of being completely useless.
 
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jaguarlax

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Dirtbag said:
Yeah, maybe I'm an old skeptic but I'm doubtful of some of mega crops claims ... Some things are best kept seperate and mixed independantly into a diluted solution. I cant see cramming enzymes and silica and gypsum and calmag and macro and micronutrients all into a bag and expecting it all to perform as advertised. Enzymes last forever in the right environment, but I dont know if a bag of salt counts?
Click to expand...
yea I dont think being an old skeptic has anything to do with it. I dont know much... but I do know not many things do well in high salinity.
 
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Aqua Man

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Nine the less I love my mega crop even if half the marketing is BS. The results I have had with it are enough for me .

But I feel there are many good or even possibly more suitable ferts out there... I just can't say which ones. I think we all tailor our base nutes to a certain degree.
 
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Dirtbag

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Something my buddy told me which goes against the idea of never changing the ratio is the pre loading of PK before flower. It was glaringly obvious that it had an affect on the plants. Within 3 days they just exploded with preflowers, I've never seen my strains do that before. And the strains that always purple pinstripe on me went fully green. Add to that I had buds forming in 6 days from flip rather than the usual 8-10. But even he agrees after the couple weeks of a slight boost to return to the grow ratio and stay there till the end, then in the last week taper back N and in the case of coco, also taper back K.
 
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Dirtbag said:
Something my buddy told me which goes against the idea of never changing the ratio is the pre loading of PK before flower. It was glaringly obvious that it had an affect on the plants. Within 3 days they just exploded with preflowers, I've never seen my strains do that before. And the strains that always purple pinstripe on me went fully green. But even he agrees after the couple weeks of a slight boost to return to the grow ratio and stay there till the end, then in the last week taper back N and in the case of coco, also taper back K.
Click to expand...
Makes absolute sense to me
 
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Kanzeon

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Dirtbag said:
Ugh... barf lol. I'm not a fan of Brett or lacto or any sour beers. Dont like barrel aged beer either.

I make a few styles and rarely waver from them. I make Pilsner, classic pale ale, NEIPA, west coast IPA, and a stout. That's really about it. Every now and then I make an amber or golden honey ale if the mood strikes, but its not very often.

Almost forgot, I also do a session ipa for lawnmower beer in the summer, clocks in at 4% but tastes like a tropical NEIPA.
Click to expand...

Yep! That sounds awesome! What kinds of hops do you use for the NEIPA? Is it done DIPA style or is it all dry hopped?

I'm right there with you on all of the dark stuff. We have like the exact inverse taste in lighter beers, haha. I want to drink something that tastes like someone dropped an old saddle, some weed stems, and a bunch of mashed up limes in granny smith apple juice and let it sit for a few days. Very low IBU's. That funky, yeasty, bracingly acidic base that can carry spices, herbs, fruit, and more hop-forward resinous flavors and plays well off of salty, rich food.

But then again, that's what I like in wine, too. Burgundy over Willamette Pinot, Savenierres over New Zealand for Sauv Blanc, etc.
 
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MIMedGrower said:
The bruce bugby university of utah vids where he now has hemp grow chambers and consults with med marijiana growers say to use 2-1-2 all the way through.

I figure the foliage pro with their potassium silica would round that out real close.
Click to expand...
It would. Foliage pro with potassium silicate is very similar to say using calmag and pure blend pro, except you also get silicate! lol.

The other thing is honestly, overall the actual proportions need to be close but not exact. I know a guy that ran plant prod 20-20-20 and grew deadly pot somehow lol.

Even in that Dyna grow video I think if you listen closely though, he says that the requirements for the plant throughout its life dont change that much, but that doesnt mean they dont benefit from any changes ever. And even though photoperiodism is the primary trigger for flowering in Cannabis, that's not to say there arent secondary modes of enhancing or triggering the effect. Crop steering is something that not a lot of people mess with but there is absolutely some scientific truth to it.
 
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Kanzeon said:
Yep! That sounds awesome! What kinds of hops do you use for the NEIPA? Is it done DIPA style or is it all dry hopped?

I'm right there with you on all of the dark stuff. We have like the exact inverse taste in lighter beers, haha. I want to drink something that tastes like someone dropped an old saddle, some weed stems, and a bunch of mashed up limes in granny smith apple juice and let it sit for a few days. Very low IBU's. That funky, yeasty, bracingly acidic base that can carry spices, herbs, fruit, and more hop-forward resinous flavors and plays well off of salty, rich food.

But then again, that's what I like in wine, too. Burgundy over Willamette Pinot, Savenierres over New Zealand for Sauv Blanc, etc.
Click to expand...

Everyone's got different tastes, that's the beauty of brewing. My NEIPA uses Mosaic, Citra, Cashmere and galaxy hops. About 28oz per 10 gallons. I put about 1/2 the hops in a flameout and whirlpool them at 170F for 20 min, the rest goes in for 2 dry hop sessions, one at high krausen and the next about 5 days later. For yeast I use wyeast 1318. Mash is a 60/40 mix of 2 row pale and pilsner for base malt, and I add about 4 pounds of flaked wheat to the mash as well, and a dash of dextrin malt and acid malt. I like to mash it around 155-158 to keep it soft and thick in the mouthfeel.
Ferments 2 weeks at 67-68F. ABV I keep around 6% with a final gravity of 1.015 or so
 
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Dirtbag

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Huh.. tried to find pics of my brewing setup but I guess I've got none on this phone. But I've got one of my kegerator lol.

Also came across a couple cool pics. Believe it or not I took these with no filters. This was over on Valdez island for a buddy's stag party. We had shotguns and 1000 Clay's and rented 16 paintball guns... had like 12 full cases of paintballs... what a weekend.

But these pics... The sky didnt even look real that night. A quick storm had passed and then this happened. I've said it before, BC is a magical place.
 
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Dirtbag

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Lol fuck reminded me of the boat war. A few of the guys went out fishing in the sailboat and when they came back we went out in a speedboat and just assaulted the boat with paintballs lol. was frickin hillarious. Destroyed the poor guys boat, tore up all the vinyl windows. Lol it was left like that at the yacht club for like a year after that. I'd feel bad if he wasnt one of the guys that started broken coast and struck it rich lol.
 
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Kanzeon

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#1,119
Dirtbag said:
Everyone's got different tastes, that's the beauty of brewing. My NEIPA uses Mosaic, Citra, Cashmere and galaxy hops. About 28oz per 10 gallons. I put about 1/2 the hops in a flameout and whirlpool them at 170F for 20 min, the rest goes in for 2 dry hop sessions, one at high krausen and the next about 5 days later. For yeast I use wyeast 1318. Mash is a 60/40 mix of 2 row pale and pilsner for base malt, and I add about 4 pounds of flaked wheat to the mash as well, and a dash of dextrin malt and acid malt. I like to mash it around 155-158 to keep it soft and thick in the mouthfeel.
Ferments 2 weeks at 67-68F. ABV I keep around 6% with a final gravity of 1.015 or so
Click to expand...

TBH you're already doing that at a higher level than a lot of professional breweries on the east coast. Too many mofos out there subbing out flour for the flaked wheat to get that thick mouthfeel and it's gross.
 
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Kanzeon said:
TBH you're already doing that at a higher level than a lot of professional breweries on the east coast. Too many mofos out there subbing out flour for the flaked wheat to get that thick mouthfeel and it's gross.
Click to expand...

That thick cloudy mouthfeel is from the wheat, dextrin malt, a thick mash at higher temp, and a chloride to sulphate ratio of 2:1 for the starting water. I find if any of those things is out of place the effect just isnt quite right.

Lol and yeah man I find brewing is just like growing. There are people out there with as much or more knowledge as your average brewmaster producing a better product at home because they arent taking shortcuts for any reason. I make my lagers with low lovibond pilsner malt and whole cone noble hops, using a traditional bohemian pilsner yeast, fermented at 43F for 3 weeks then Kegged and cold conditioned for a month before I call it my beer.
Not some shitty corn and rice syrup and hops extract with some patented esterless yeast fermented under pressure like your average off the shelf BMC "Lager"..
 
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