Dirtbag
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- Feb 12, 2019
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No need to try it @Dirtbag this round is soil and likely after that I will go coco. I have the first version So it's a bit different I think. And as we all know mega crop is what I run and what was used in the hydro system that those pics I posted are from. I never seen the issues of sediment and maybe that's because it's version 1? I think base nute choices should be based on what additives you plan on using. This is where making your own comes in handy AF but I'm over that. As it can be tedious trying to get all the individual sources at times and I'm getting lazy in my older years.
I still gladly take it off ya for cost bro
Yeah hygrowzyme is what I use but I'm open to options if there is something better. I honestly can't say a bad thing about mega crop. The results mean more to me than the claims made or clumping issues.
You make a valid argument there. It is pretty high K. I wonder with enzymes if it would be an issue... I guess I will find out when the time comes.Yeah I have V3. But it came in a V2 bag. In discussion with the company I really grew to dislike them in general with their repackaging and nonsense excuses for the sediment. And they were rude. lol
Also in coco I believe it would have too much potassium, especially for the last part of flower when the coco really starts to release potassium as it breaks down. It's one media where you actually want the P and K numbers pretty close to each other. It's the reason I'll be transitioning back to the soil bloom at the end, not so much to boost P as it is to lower K.
I can't answer and I will continue to add enzymes. I know they can dry out and be reactivated but I honestly haven't done much research or have much knowledge on enzymes themselves... More so bacteria that produce them. Let see what I can find quick on that.Yeah, maybe I'm an old skeptic but I'm doubtful of some of mega crops claims ... Some things are best kept seperate and mixed independantly into a diluted solution. I cant see cramming enzymes and silica and gypsum and calmag and macro and micronutrients all into a bag and expecting it all to perform as advertised. Enzymes last forever in the right environment, but I dont know if a bag of salt counts?
Yeah I have V3. But it came in a V2 bag. In discussion with the company I really grew to dislike them in general with their repackaging and nonsense excuses for the sediment. And they were rude. lol
Also in coco I believe it would have too much potassium, especially for the last part of flower when the coco really starts to release potassium as it breaks down. It's one media where you actually want the P and K numbers pretty close to each other. It's the reason I'll be transitioning back to the soil bloom at the end, not so much to boost P as it is to lower K.
Mega crop basically 2-1-3. I feel personally most ferts are in the same league. It's just how bad we fuck them up with different additives. Also bacteria need food sources. In purely synthetic for the most part that missing so some organics need to be added. In hydro and I would say soiless we want to minimally add some organics. I feel mega crop has a good mix in this area to provide minimal amounts... I mean we can always add but it's no secret the amount of food will essentially determine the overall population. I would say enzymes in this are are much more beneficial because we don't need to keep thriving bacterial colonies to get thier benefits.The bruce bugby university of utah vids where he now has hemp grow chambers and consults with med marijiana growers say to use 2-1-2 all the way through.
I figure the foliage pro with their potassium silica would round that out real close.
That's what I'm thinking. With brewing I had a 10 degree temperature window to convert starch to sugar. Go 5 degrees too high and the enzymes denature and your mash doesnt convert.So yeah once denatured they are done. I would think they would not do well added into a dry feet when exposed to high salinity
yea I dont think being an old skeptic has anything to do with it. I dont know much... but I do know not many things do well in high salinity.Yeah, maybe I'm an old skeptic but I'm doubtful of some of mega crops claims ... Some things are best kept seperate and mixed independantly into a diluted solution. I cant see cramming enzymes and silica and gypsum and calmag and macro and micronutrients all into a bag and expecting it all to perform as advertised. Enzymes last forever in the right environment, but I dont know if a bag of salt counts?
Makes absolute sense to meSomething my buddy told me which goes against the idea of never changing the ratio is the pre loading of PK before flower. It was glaringly obvious that it had an affect on the plants. Within 3 days they just exploded with preflowers, I've never seen my strains do that before. And the strains that always purple pinstripe on me went fully green. But even he agrees after the couple weeks of a slight boost to return to the grow ratio and stay there till the end, then in the last week taper back N and in the case of coco, also taper back K.
Ugh... barf lol. I'm not a fan of Brett or lacto or any sour beers. Dont like barrel aged beer either.
I make a few styles and rarely waver from them. I make Pilsner, classic pale ale, NEIPA, west coast IPA, and a stout. That's really about it. Every now and then I make an amber or golden honey ale if the mood strikes, but its not very often.
Almost forgot, I also do a session ipa for lawnmower beer in the summer, clocks in at 4% but tastes like a tropical NEIPA.
It would. Foliage pro with potassium silicate is very similar to say using calmag and pure blend pro, except you also get silicate! lol.The bruce bugby university of utah vids where he now has hemp grow chambers and consults with med marijiana growers say to use 2-1-2 all the way through.
I figure the foliage pro with their potassium silica would round that out real close.
Yep! That sounds awesome! What kinds of hops do you use for the NEIPA? Is it done DIPA style or is it all dry hopped?
I'm right there with you on all of the dark stuff. We have like the exact inverse taste in lighter beers, haha. I want to drink something that tastes like someone dropped an old saddle, some weed stems, and a bunch of mashed up limes in granny smith apple juice and let it sit for a few days. Very low IBU's. That funky, yeasty, bracingly acidic base that can carry spices, herbs, fruit, and more hop-forward resinous flavors and plays well off of salty, rich food.
But then again, that's what I like in wine, too. Burgundy over Willamette Pinot, Savenierres over New Zealand for Sauv Blanc, etc.
Everyone's got different tastes, that's the beauty of brewing. My NEIPA uses Mosaic, Citra, Cashmere and galaxy hops. About 28oz per 10 gallons. I put about 1/2 the hops in a flameout and whirlpool them at 170F for 20 min, the rest goes in for 2 dry hop sessions, one at high krausen and the next about 5 days later. For yeast I use wyeast 1318. Mash is a 60/40 mix of 2 row pale and pilsner for base malt, and I add about 4 pounds of flaked wheat to the mash as well, and a dash of dextrin malt and acid malt. I like to mash it around 155-158 to keep it soft and thick in the mouthfeel.
Ferments 2 weeks at 67-68F. ABV I keep around 6% with a final gravity of 1.015 or so
TBH you're already doing that at a higher level than a lot of professional breweries on the east coast. Too many mofos out there subbing out flour for the flaked wheat to get that thick mouthfeel and it's gross.
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