Frostfire said:

Superior to Masterblend?? Looks like micros only...(?)

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Yea, I'll add extra nitrogen, calcium, potassium, magnesium, sulfate, amine's, acids, hormones; fluvic, metabolites, enzymes, surfactant; and dial phosphate more closely. I'm already doing all the former. This is just a progression of what I'm already doing.

I'll just use the monopotassium phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and start having a use for the potassium nitrate finally. I also regulate calcium, potassium independently. So that give me a little wiggle room with ratio's, and regulating pH

The key is order.

Frankster said:

Yea, I'll add extra nitrogen, calcium, potassium, magnesium, sulfate, amine's, acids, hormones; fluvic, metabolites, enzymes, surfactant; and dial phosphate more closely. I'm already doing all the former. This is just a progression of what I'm already doing.

I'll just use the monopotassium phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and start having a use for the potassium nitrate finally.

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OK, so no more Masterblend for you, huh?

Frostfire said:

OK, so no more Masterblend for you, huh?

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I'm going to finish this grow, but I'm certainly going to look into evolving this further, yes. I'm in no rush, my method is solid,

Frankster said:

I'm going to finish this grow, but I'm certainly going to look into evolving this further, yes. I'm in no rush, my method is solid,

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I'd like to follow your progress if you have any journal here.

Frostfire said:

I'd like to follow your progress if you have any journal here.

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Here's the current grow.

kevinmc said:

I am on my fifth grow and wow!
Easy, cheap and it works every time DTW COCO

For early flowering (week 3) per 5 gallons

8g magnesium sulfate

2g calcium nitrate

8g Masterblend base

1/2 Hammer head

Mid flowering weeks 4-6 per 5 gallons

10g magnesium sulfate

1g Calcium Nitrate

10g Masterblend base

Full Hammer head

Week before flush

5g magnesium sulfate

5g Masterblend base

1/2 Hammer head

flush for a week or so or until ppms come out under 200

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Sorry to jump on the thread (i know its last year)but is your feed schedule the one from soil2coco he has flower fuel instead of hammerhead

Frankster said:

Yea, so this shit should be virtually every time, correct? I'm just starting to wise up to that little fact, and if you go too strong, your going to murder them, so your kinda stuck doing the measure thing again.

I'm thinking concentrate the crap in a gallon jug, then figure out how much a cup of the stuff is, (60 grams, 60 grams and 30 grams) and go form there.
I do like it, and it allows for going lighter, and doing something else instead, like a humic acid wash, or some occasional kelp, or adding potassium bicarb, or potassium hydroxide toward the end. It certainly allows for constant manipulation of the recipe.

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Frankster said:

The results of this regime speak for themselves, here's some of the end results from this grow.
Masterblend used in compliment with other basic ingredients can make an affordable high quality fertilizer regime.

View attachment 1191566View attachment 1191567View attachment 1191568

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What grow system or media did you use with your Master Blend grow? And are you still using it for nutrients now?

sagadella said:

What grow system or media did you use with your Master Blend grow? And are you still using it for nutrients now?

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I still do Drain to waste with Master Blend.. in coco or Promix HP

kevinmc said:

I am on my fifth grow and wow!
Easy, cheap and it works every time DTW COCO

For early flowering (week 3) per 5 gallons

8g magnesium sulfate

2g calcium nitrate

8g Masterblend base

1/2 Hammer head

Mid flowering weeks 4-6 per 5 gallons

10g magnesium sulfate

1g Calcium Nitrate

10g Masterblend base

Full Hammer head

Week before flush

5g magnesium sulfate

5g Masterblend base

1/2 Hammer head

flush for a week or so or until ppms come out under 200

Click to expand...

I am using a similar recipe actually; except I'm making my enzymes; and more N.. A lot more N..
and some simple amino acids during the flower cycle.... Been using some wrights.... (concentrated tree sap); GABA, alkyl extracted fluvic, glycine; and tads of sugars... coconut; malts... Recipe very dialed; and developmentally stage dependent.

Frostfire said:

Mix it in a blender?

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I do my mixing in sequence...

first the masterblend; and mag/sulfate... shake...
then acids; if any getting added. fluvics... aminos...
Then calcium nitrate.... shake, shake....
Then calcium hydroxide... shake..
sugars; if any....,ph check; recalibrate... w/calcium hydroxide... or potassium hydroxide.. shake shake...

There is a method to the madness; avoiding precipitation; avoiding gasses created...

Frostfire said:

I'd like to follow your progress if you have any journal here.

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So as it turns out; the microplex was of little use here; actually... At least for my current needs; but good to have in the lineup if needed in a pinch. Seems that the masterblend is pretty good ratio; and you can add some considerable amounts of N; acids; amine's and other bioactive; without knocking the micro's out of line... It certainly can be done; but it's going to require 1/16 to 1/32 tsp per gallon; and needs to be very tightly dialed.

Since I've started with this base regime; once I get to flowering; I'm essentially just adding the icing on the cake so to speak. Same formulation; just more complex acids added in.... That way I'm never over 900->1000 ppm... and very very highly buffered solutions. Exceptionally pH stable.

sagadella said:

What grow system or media did you use with your Master Blend grow? And are you still using it for nutrients now?

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Yes; and using coco as substrate.
Here's some results from the last grow that I've been smoking with this method.



and the current grow...

Looks like it's time to revisit this thread, not that I've seen this one before but it is a good thread of MB, pros and cons.

I started using MB with coconut coir about 2019 and haven't looked back and why I probably missed this post originally but there's some good info here.

Someone talked about mixing/shaking bottles(?) No idea why. Here's the way I use the MB kit

I make 1 gallon of concentrate of each 3.
Measure out 76.8 grams of MB, 76.8 grams of calcium and 38.4 grams of epsom. Add each to a 1 gallon container and fill with water, tap water is usually best unless it is extreme. My tap is 7.0 pH and carbonate hardness about 220ppm. MB brings that pH down to around 5.8 and raises the hardness to 800+ ppm which is perfect for adult plants.

I don’t mix or even shake these jugs until I'm ready to use and then it's just a little each time to make sure all is in suspension.

For fertigations I fill a gallon container (I usually mix 20 gallon water jugs at a time and usually twice daily) 3/4 full of tap water and then add 1/2 cup of MB concentrate, 1/2 cup of epsom concentrate and then 1/2 cup of calcium concentrate IN THIS ORDER-ALWAYS. If you mix this out of order you'll experience nutrient lockout. Don't do it.

I also never mix or shake these jugs. Not needed, they are well mixed just by adding the concentrates and a little more water

I water (fertigate actually as it will always have nutrients) 3-5 x's a day and this can be set to water automatically. I've done it before and will do it again as this makes life very easy. I used 2 55 gallon drums, a pump and a timer and an aquarium air pump and defusers in the drums.

Plant growth will surprise you if you're use to soil growing and unlike soil you literally can't over water/fertigate. The more you fertigate the faster the growth.

Couple thoughts:

Never allow the coco coir to dry out. Keep it wet as it can be difficult to rehydrate. If it happens the best way to fix it is to put the pot in a bucket with fertigate water about 3-4" deep and allow the coir to suck that water up. Add more if needed.

This is huge: Always get 10-20% runoff when fertigating. Have I ever measured it? No, I guesstimate it and apparently I'm pretty good at it but if you need to measure it then do so to get an idea of how much runoff you need. More won't hurt the plants but it could dent your budget.

Be sure to have something to attach your plants to to keep them upright as they will quickly become top heavy. You'll be able to grow 5-6 footers in one gallon pots. 3-5 gallons will give you Trees and only suitable if growing outside.

The main negative of this style growing is all that runoff and what to do with it and no, you can't reuse it on your plants. I honestly don't know why but I've tried it and the plants begin to suffer within a few days.

I grow in a greenhouse and then flower outside and allow most of the runoff to go into the soil but you can collect it and use it elsewhere like lawns, garden beds, etc. just not everyday or you'll burn the grass/plants. Spread it around.

I've been gardening since I was a kid, some 60 years and I can't grow anything in soil near as well as coco and MB and I've grown pumpkins 5' diameter, 15' Sunflowers and many vegetable plants in that time but coco and MB put all that to shame.

I'm sure I'm forgetting things but I'll always try and be available to answer questions

just remembered this:
Thread 'Growing Cannabis in Coconut Coir with Hydroponic Nutrients' https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/growing-cannabis-in-coconut-coir-with-hydroponic-nutrients.162154/

Damn, I'm old and forgetful

Does coco and MB really work?

1 gallon fiber pots 2019 about 5' tall

Harvested a month ago (4 gal nursery pot) over 8' tall.

I can't see growing in anything else. I'm so impressed by the growth rate I no longer grow vegetables in soil and I grow veggies year round

currently i started using silica soo at first dwc start i mix a little bit of it and once again at flower.
then normal masterblend mix 1/4 power and after that i just follow the ppms if they drop i add more if not just water.
with masterblend i use mycos and bacteria to fight anything that would think to live there and i like the idea of symbiosis with the mycos and bacteria.
mycos go 2-3 time once when there is some roots once in flower and somethimes in veg again if i remember or have longer veg.
end of grow i stop using nitrogen soo i switch the calcium nitrate for calcium sulfate, i used to use pk boost works i just dont have it anymore.gone all powder now.got a diary if interested in how masterblend works

interesting how much different the amount of nutes for coco and dwc is.i am done with veg and i used 14g up until this point.when you think how cheap this nute is no way i will ever go back to liquid nutes

Like most guys I'm a visual learner so I took a couple pics of the concentrates and thr qt and 1 gallon jugs I use

I use the qt concentrate bottles for doing a bunch of half or 3/4 strength mix and the 4oz cup to make full.

1/2 strength for 1 week old pot plants and herbs and most Kracky bottles

2/3 strength for Vegging Plants, peppers, zucchini, and most other vegetables

Full for first half flower and Tomatoes, the stuff was designed for and then i reduce calcium to half strength. I tried to eliminate it as there is some in the MB but there was too much fade.

And to mix the concentrates

Red solo is 2oz, next is 3oz, 4oz and up to 10oz. I use the 4oz cups to weigh the powdered nutes and bring them up to the greenhouse to mix in the white bleach gallon jugs. And then there's all the jugs

That's certainly not all of them. I have about 2 dozen and add one a week and a couple times a month one will start leaking. I like milk but you can buy water in gallon jugs and it's worth it just for the jug. Most of us have bleach. Instead of tossing they're perfect to use here. I replace those about every 3-4 years.

It's hard to argue with the results

Habaneros still producing

My fall cherry tomatoes

Mother's Milk

Oh look at those jugs This takes up most of my time these days but it's become a labor of love

Wow, that's alot of 'dialing in'! How long did it take to come up with your final formula?

And to think, I just finished pulling my cherry tomato plants up and tossed them on the pile. They still had lots of tomatoes but without the warm temps they don't get sweet. And the frosts were turning the leaves black.

Nice thread,
I also use the blend with great results. Usually @ 1000ppm average, I use the tomatoe formula in flower and at week six i cut back the cal can't 20% each week until flush week. I do add some seaweed and fermented fruit juice, and microbes and humid acid for the first 6 weeks of flower. Ph is always 6.0ish by the time I add the MB to the 6.8 tap water. I prefer coco over DWC since I grow in 30*c. It is possible to get organic quality from hydro with greater yields.

weed4we said:

Nice thread,
I also use the blend with great results. Usually @ 1000ppm average, I use the tomatoe formula in flower and at week six i cut back the cal can't 20% each week until flush week. I do add some seaweed and fermented fruit juice, and microbes and humid acid for the first 6 weeks of flower. Ph is always 6.0ish by the time I add the MB to the 6.8 tap water. I prefer coco over DWC since I grow in 30*c. It is possible to get organic quality from hydro with greater yields.

View attachment 2555606

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Yes it is That's Beautiful

cpurola said:

Wow, that's alot of 'dialing in'! How long did it take to come up with your final formula?

And to think, I just finished pulling my cherry tomato plants up and tossed them on the pile. They still had lots of tomatoes but without the warm temps they don't get sweet. And the frosts were turning the leaves black.

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The formula I found online to make and use the the full strength concentrate. I got the half strength idea from Kiki on YouTube. She was my Kracky mentor. The rest just from thinking about it and trying different things. This and breeding these has been the best practical hobby I've ever had and saves me $$$ or worse, going without

I'm in constant pain, low back injury 35 years ago. Doctors just wanna cut me open and I won't let 'em. They're one of the leading causes of death so I make coconut oil for caps and cooking. A brownie before bed and I sleep like dead A half dozen J's, or more when I'm home all day, like TODAY and it helps with the pain.

As we get older the general aches and pain get worse. Besides backs there's knees, hands/wrists, elbows that many of us injured when younger and now are starting to hurt and this helps. I make a sauve for my wife's neuropathy foot pain and it got her through several years while we figured out her diet and keeping her sugar levels steady. She rarely has to use it these days but we both use it for any skin ailments and joint strains. I make it 3-1 THC to CBD, her doctor told us that was the lasted study info he had read about it and he's right. Easy to make. I got a post about it somewhere on here with recipe.