Tasty Buds
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Very cool!!!!DNA MADE with organic compounds so it's a organic nute so it is pure and clean from bad bactia that's where people get it wrong if use organic food it must be broken down to its cleanest form as there is all types of nasty shit in raw organic if using raw organics you must put worms in your pot to cleanse the dirt potting mix dirt is full of nasty stuff and can kill uonly in Australia can u get DNA nutes look how pure the Rhizo is not like seasol black
You're one of the few who agrees with me about cutting out the N. Oh, and speak of the devil, I was looking through all my old nutes, and "stuff", and I came across a spray bottle of Super-Thieve. I'm definitely going to be using that once I get started again.back then in hydro we ran heavy nutes ppm's, probably 1200 to 17-1800 maybe even 2k in veg and flower, far bigger grows then anything I do now in soil, cola's that would swallow a 2l pop bottle for the fun of it. so even after we cut out everything ppm's wasn't an issue , we was probably running potassium phosphate at 2 to 3grams a liter and Epson salt at about .5 gram/liter of water. we running probably 200gallon rez's but you could dilute it to what every ppm you wanted. I probably still have some of those old 6 pack formulas round somewhere.
Porky. How ya doing.Wow just wow.
Thx mate that's true teach yourself and find out why what and when as like u said most are small growers and only know basic stuff as for medical cannabis has to be of the highest grade of purity and not a organic that has not had it's bad bactia removed from it and got to know what to feed them right time to much N will ruin your grow with leaf and if you don't use a PK at right time to flush the N out of plant and keep the formation of bloom so no fox tailing or early ripen from to earlyVery cool!!!!
Your knowledge of organics FAR surpass mine.
It might be the most important part of growing, and I never got in deep studying it.
It's time for me to really crack down, and starr reading.
Greenhouse, or even large scale outdoor grows are a weakness of mine. I actually had a chance to do something very large scale in Nevada, and passed.
I'm quick to point out my strengths, however it takes an open mind to examine my weaknesses!
Thanks Ghost!
I always say, you can learn something from everyone. (Sometimes it's what not to do), but not in this case.
I've hesrd people claiming not to have used chemicals losing an entire crop to heavy metals, and claimed they didn't use any "banned substances"Thx mate that's true teach yourself and find out why what and when as like u said most are small growers and only know basic stuff as for medical cannabis has to be of the highest grade of purity and not a organic that has not had it's bad bactia removed from it and got to know what to feed them right time to much N will ruin your grow with leaf and if you don't use a PK at right time to flush the N out of plant and keep the formation of bloom so no fox tailing or early ripen from to early❤
I guess you have plenty of CO2 and air flow to allow you to give such a large amount of fertilizer, If my Run off excedds 1.5 in transition or mid flowering ,the plants will soon be burnt 。I know my CO2 is far from reaching the standard,back then in hydro we ran heavy nutes ppm's, probably 1200 to 17-1800 maybe even 2k in veg and flower, far bigger grows then anything I do now in soil, cola's that would swallow a 2l pop bottle for the fun of it. so even after we cut out everything ppm's wasn't an issue , we was probably running potassium phosphate at 2 to 3grams a liter and Epson salt at about .5 gram/liter of water. we running probably 200gallon rez's but you could dilute it to what every ppm you wanted. I probably still have some of those old 6 pack formulas round somewhere.
Not really I do have old hydro mags from back then and rock wool was the best thing out I learned from over the years and was doing rock wool back in 97 plus talking to the guys at shops getting info learning myself about all the fundamentals there is NPK on utube he is great with lots of info so look him up and there is alot of new info now these days I will do a grow forum next crop so people can see how to start growing fast growth cropsI've hesrd people claiming not to have used chemicals losing an entire crop to heavy metals, and claimed they didn't use any "banned substances"
I'll be starting out again. Thoes 1st couple of crops can make, or break a grower..
I lost what may have been an opportunity of a lifetime, as I didn't have the confidence to take the project on.
At the time I rationalized it, however after your post...
Yeah, it's time to learn.
Do you have any suggested readings?
I guess you have plenty of CO2 and air flow to allow you to give such a large amount of fertilizer, If my Run off excedds 1.5 in transition or mid flowering ,the plants will soon be burnt 。I know my CO2 is far from reaching the standard,
I learned from a scientist guy(Grow Guru in DGC ) that 1400-1600ppm is will be awesome in Veg, and it is a bit wasteful to give nuts exceeds 1500ppm in bloom, and 1.2ec is the most economical amount in flowering. The concentration of CO2 is directly related to the dosage of nuts.
This thread has some really knowledgeable "GOOD FOLK"Thats a loaded question lol , I'll keep it basic and short as I can, first we used hydro for what it was, The race car of growing, once we had clones ready for veg, meaning past the clone stage ready to grow, we pushed them for the fastest growth we could get , we also pushed then through transition and stretch to get the most out of them, why ,we we're growing 5 -6 -7 foot plants in very short amount of time, short growth time, big plants , big yields , shit tonne of lights so we didn't screw around, and before someone says it , fast growth less time does not = reduced quality , 1 thing I will say though is i think a lot of the older strains especially the heavy indica ones could hand more nutes then a lot of the stuff today.
I'm going to disagree with you about C02 directly related to nutes, there is 9 cardinal factors to growing #1 and most important is sun/light and all other 8 factors fall in line with the amount and or intensity of light. ex. if your running 600umolsm2s your other 8 factors will have to be with the parameters of that amount of light to produce optimal photosynthesis. at that amount of light those parameters are some what wide, now if your running 1000umolsm2s which is fairly high light those 8 factors need to be run in a much more precise measurement to the amount of light and to each other to have optimal photosynthesis. which is harder to do as light intensity goes up. here is how I break down the 9 factors 1 is light, 2,3,4and 5 are your above ground factors .Temp RH wind/air flow and C02 the 6,7,8,and 9 are the below ground factors Temp,water, nutes and 02. So when running high light photosynthesis etc is only going to be as good as how optimized those 8 factors are. the needed C02 would be more directly linked to the amount of light needed for photosynthesis. Nutes/ water are more directly related to the amount of light, under high amounts of light the plants needs / will uptake higher amounts of water, which means nute levels should be run lower.etc to better understand all this I'd suggest to research photosynthesis, all the process and factors around it, but also research up the stomata and how it works ,especially the guard cells that swell and contract to open and close the stomata , once one has a great understanding of these process, it much easier to understand or see why humidity, leaf temp or wind/air flow is so important, ( VPD) the same as O2,water, nutes and temp of the soil etc. how these all work together and the higher the light the more precise they need to be optimal growth / photosynthesis etc.
You have your system down, and it's very different than mine. I'm very impressed with your knowledge, and skill, AND yoyo tyingNOW THE second stage of pistols hairs are starting to show as first stage hairs turn more orange then brown and if them hairs go brown that's it over so the moral of this story is if you want to finish your cycle bomb the nutes to it and she will ripen game over haha
This thread has some really knowledgeable "GOOD FOLK"
I wasn't going to attempt to answer that. Although I've worked in grow rooms that are C02 enriched, I don't, nor have ever used C02. Any answer I would have given would have been bs.
From what I've seen in person, I couldn't say C02 will yield more than a facility that doesn't use C02, as the growers using it never came close to my yields.
I just didn't think they really were very good, or cared all that much. It was about trying to make $ for them, and nothing else.
I'd like to run 2 rooms. 1 with, and 1 without, and see how substantial the yield differences were. Hopefully I'll have that opportunity in the not too distant future.
As for feeding, I feed very light. The highest I've gone since 2012 was been 1.8, and that was during the 1st 3 weeks of flower (unless I'm running Lucas)
My yields have gotten better since I've dropped my feeding. I'll feed as low an EC that will still keep the plants happy.
I want my ph coming out higher thsn the ph going in.
When I've seen run off hitting 3000 ppms, and ph drops under 5, that's when I've seen real problems. I'm also, and have been using salts too for a very long time now, with one, or 2 exceptions.
Dr Green,
If given a choice what type of lighting you would choose for cannabis, what would you go with, and why? For yield, and potency?
Great questions, and answers. Just when I think I know what I'm doing.....
Thx mate cheers No never had tested the bud but it's up in the high 33% THC and 20 % 15% cbd I am sure half the time I don't flush as such only when things are starting to look high in pot in flower I run more feed through to get good run off as I have taps on my pot in flower I will fill pot up and turn the tap to power flush the pot as I flip I will flush before flip down to 1.2 ec run off and run for the 2 weeks as they are in their fast growth at 1.6 .1.8 ec and ph 5.8 then after that flush back to 1.2 and keep set nutes again 1.8 ec again set feed longer to keep flushing the crap out the plant and after a couple feed as feed every 3 hours so 4 feed in 12 hours I will fill tub up with more water to weaken down the feed and see how the leaf feels and keep weaken it down over the feed and when near end of tub reading in tub is down to 1.2 ec and once a week I will open taps and drain the pot as I have two drain holes in my pot so run off run out top hole till i open bottom drain hole with tap as i have water ..nutes ..at bottom of pot with air stones last feed is always 2 hours before lights out as gives time to dry before the lights go out if leaf is ruff just run lower nutes till it's better ...if your ph goes in at 5.8 it comes out 6.0 so putting a lower ph then setting higher comes out higher again so you will get more N in plant instead of loosing it and more trace elements as that's what's processes it allYou have your system down, and it's very different than mine. I'm very impressed with your knowledge, and skill, AND yoyo tying
I'd like to see you run one of my strains in your system, and would like to try your strain in my system.
Have you ever had your bud tested?
You may have told me, but I think I would have remembered. Do you flush, and if so, for how long?
This statement is an absolute clinic of knowledge and understanding. I can't agree more or state how much I feel this is so absolutely true. All 9 of those factors play a role with eachother and balancing them is not easy in the slightest. Change one and it impacts all the others.Lighting for me is HPS, its all I used , I looked hard at LED but I don't the benefits are there for me. However at some point that maybe the way of the future.
Personally I think yield has many factors not just lighting , however studies have shown that yield is directly related to the amount of light and intensity example, studies shown using upwards of 2k unmolsm2s cannabis plants still show an upward trend in yield, be mindful though thats a crazy amount of light and you need a top notch facility to keep all other factors in check. yields for most people I believe boil down to this using the proper intensity for the facility you have while being able to to optimize all other factor to as close to 100% as possible. Thats why guys with 600w can blow away guys using 2000w of light, the guys using 2k light is unable to or doesn't know how to optimize all 9 factors and his yield will be only as good as his weakest link. basically wasted light. I used those number just as an example.
I'm not going to get into much on potency, again many factors genetic being critical. I wil say this though I've done a lot i've seen a lot but very little of that will I post here, I already tried with a few things an it ends up being 2 pages of fake bro science, i don't know what i'm talking about , won't work blah blah blah and all from the guys that has a hand full of years growing and haven't even got their dick wet yet lol.. but for me personally if I want to drive resin, terps , flavor smell potency i'm going to do it will cold above ground.. when fully understood I think its far better then additives, UV and all that other stuff, not saying that other stuff doesn't have its place , but for me cold is far more effective , the issue with cold is the hydro stores and lighting companies can't sell it you. But as legitimization is becoming more and more , and more people are studying it , I'm learning new stuff everyday as well.
That's some priceless info! Ya just don't come across info like that anymore. I've never come across books of detailed info like that.Not really I do have old hydro mags from back then and rock wool was the best thing out I learned from over the years and was doing rock wool back in 97 plus talking to the guys at shops getting info learning myself about all the fundamentals there is NPK on utube he is great with lots of info so look him up and there is alot of new info now these days I will do a grow forum next crop so people can see how to start growing fast growth cropsusing filtered water is the best as long as u put back in what it takes out as trace elements can make or break a crop to much is deadly and to less they will take longer to grow and stay stunted some food is
NOW THE ONSET is starting this is how much the hairs pistols should start to go and the onset starts to kick in I say Monday I should have a good idea as it will be 5 weeks which is good and has not started to early instead of 4 and a half weeks it's looking at 5 and a half weeks this is when the bloom starts to flower and P is what it is after the most at this stage of its cycle so ph is the main key to pump it it full of it to flower and create resin sacksI will post pics of when it's time and what to look for as it's a small gap as growth slows down through 4 to 5 as it takes in the food ready to use building it self up ready to bloom as a flower ☮ get your brain full here lol
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