Tired of trainwrecking other peoples threads? Well then, come party at the captains! Trainwreck this thread with…….trains? Anything goes here……….

[Captspaulding]

i think the root of stressing out over topping and transplanting autos is just how quickly they start going into flower once growing. But they all dont go straight into flower right away either. Some will veg on for a good bit first.

Technically, every piled up stress factor is GOING to damage end yeild in one way or another on an auto, thats just how it is with them. Technically thats just a fact, and you dont have the ability to prune and continue vegging or clone and try again like with a photoperiod. This creates paranoia in newer growers i think. Not 100% sure, but its def the root of that.

Ive never stressed it much the few times back in the day i grew autos, but i do recommend to new growers especially, to just start them in whatever pot you want to finish them in, and to just let them grow however they want to grow aside from some LST if you so desire. Probably leave the sc and topping/fimming out of the equation, but there are some autos that will respond nicely to it out there, they just arent the more common "tiny plant under a single led panel at 18/6" variety of auto done 8-10 weeks after the seed first pops pulling an ounce or two at finish.

A newer grower would also take a statement like ^that^ as if it were the law too most likely.

Man we were
Speaking on herer. I mainlined a few to 16
And they were amazing. If you balance it right and the plant doesn’t yell, the amount of veg growth auto push in flower is rowdy sometimes. So if you are familiar with it, I’ve pushed them and definitely beat expectations.
The last pics wer about 3 days out from chop if I remember right. A gift from a friend. These are auto

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

Yeah my issue with that, is most new folks don’t have proper watering know how, and I couldn’t even count at this point how many people end up in this situation here, let’s say a two week plant starts to show
A little bit of n fade , maybe hot soil, maybe the light, but more often then not, they go straight into ph yadda and folks chime its most likely hungry yadda yadda and a well intentioned novice starts throwing nutes at it early they ph a basin of water too high, then too low ect. wanting to be a reactive/proactive grower, let’s say. 3g fabric pot, they water one day, don’t see much improvement, start thinking too much and hit it with some other solution, BUT , now we foliar spray, all types of different shit , but that whole time, new guy is flooding root zone, and the majority of that food goes right past the roots and settle at the bottom. After a while the saturation is usually so bad, that roots will turn around go elsewhere and boom now we are stunted to, at the same time no new growth can penetrate it no oxygen, and what litttle did make it down there usually dies, then they chop,
And go to remove the rootball and 3/4 of the dirt used, is just wet pot that never got used anyways. I see that a lot.
and I get the different viewpoints, yesterday, I pointed out that, indeed people have success that way. But it’s not ever folks who are just starting out. In my experience Because also, if they are too heavy handed, since a saturation in the medium is present and not drying out proper, they will try to do weight checks, and man when nothing is taking anything up, that can causes a plant topside to exhibit a dry back wilt, which is crazy deceptive because new guy has thrown the entire tool box at it and now it’s wilting. as well as feeling fed, mass confusion over a simple thing ensues. I seen it alot. So I always try to tell folks who find they’re in that situation to pot down if you aren’t a bull in a china shop, unwinding some roots will help everything usually works out. Or if they choose to stay in the big pot, I try to steer them to a sprayer application at the stalk to allow for that pot to dry back while not adding more to it , and keeping the kiddo hydrated at the same time. that’s how I rollski
There’s a million ways to skin this cat bro!

in the particular contexts i recommend starting a plant in the pot it finishes, i usually also tend to recommend a more arid soil/a bit of extra perlite and just keeping closer tabs on it drying too quickly later on in flower. Most people already grow cannabis in a more moisture retentive soil then most the plants actually want. Cannabis tends to perform better the more arid the soil is, in pots arid soils can just tend to create other problems down the line that you dont want.

 

[Captspaulding]

in the particular contexts i recommend starting a plant in the pot it finishes, i usually also tend to recommend a more arid soil/a bit of extra perlite and just keeping closer tabs on it drying too quickly later on in flower. Most people already grow cannabis is a more moisture retentive soil then most the plants actually want. Cannabis tends to perform better the more arid the soil is, in pots this tends to create other problems down the line that you dont want.

Bro that part of the reason I love the soil I run.
It’s soft and fluffy, holds water at the proper clip, and dries out consistently.
I run Fabric and plastic all sizes from 8oz all the way to 7s generally.and the dirt I use is really a big key to my crops as it should be. It’s it’s every fourth day a nutrient feed. I always feed nutrients anytime anything wet goes through the medium, and I never water to runoff. and that every fourth day thing I can set my watch to that and at the same time, it doesn’t really matter what size pot all of them seem to dry out at the same clip as long as the size of the plant is proportional to the pot. You know you know if it’s a much bigger plant in an 8 ounce cup yeah you’re gonna have to like feed it a few extra times or whatever but like if if it’s a proportional plant to the size of the pot, it’s four days no matter what it’s the weirdest shit I love it. I ain’t bitching. I’m just saying it blows my mind because of the variation and pots that I use.

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

Bro that part of the reason I love the soil I run.
It’s soft and fluffy, holds water at the proper clip, and dries out consistently.
I run Fabric and plastic all sizes from 8oz all the way to 7s generally.and the dirt I use is really a big key to my crops as it should be. It’s it’s every fourth day a nutrient feed. I always feed nutrients anytime anything wet goes through the medium, and I never water to runoff. and that every fourth day thing I can set my watch to that and at the same time, it doesn’t really matter what size pot all of them seem to dry out at the same clip as long as the size of the plant is proportional to the pot. You know you know if it’s a much bigger plant in an 8 ounce cup yeah you’re gonna have to like feed it a few extra times or whatever but like if if it’s a proportional plant to the size of the pot, it’s four days no matter what it’s the weirdest shit I love it. I ain’t bitching. I’m just saying it blows my mind because of the variation and pots that I use.

When i ran soil only, i made my own soils with composted goat poo, sphagnum peat, and perlite. That was it. Sometimes id throw handfulls of this Jobes organics stuff full of mycorrhizae and archea too.

I didnt have to feed til flower usually either unless i had just let a plant sit in its pot a lot longer then i should have. They got everything they needed from the goat poo compost when up potted. I just fed them spring water right out of a pipe on the side of a cliff near where i lived lol. Only ever tested it once and it was neutral ph under 200ppm. So its all i ran for em, the spring outlet pipe was about 10 feet off a trail i would bike almost every afternoon anyway. For about 4 years thats all i did, and in flower i would use flora bloom and micro, nothing else. And honestly that was the most consistent quality cycle after cycle ive ever had.

 

[Captspaulding]

When i ran soil only, i made my own soils with composted goat poo, sphagnum peat, and perlite. That was it. Sometimes id throw handfulls of this Jobes organics stuff full of mycorrhizae and archea too.

I didnt have to feed til flower usually either unless i had just let a plant sit in its pot a lot longer then i should have. I just fed them spring water right out of a pipe on the side of a cliff near where i lived lol. Only ever tested it once and it was neutral ph under 200ppm. So its all i ran for em, the spring outlet pipe was about 10 feet of a trail i would bike almost every afternoon anyway. For about 4 years thats all i did, and in flower i would use flora bloom and micro. And honestly that was the most consistent quality cycle after cycle ive ever had.

I’ve had some homies push me towards organic runs. It’s getting to where I’m gonna have to scratch that itch

There would be so much time for activities

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

Do you have a filter at all? Even a carbon filter would help a lot with the heavy metals and smell. For your shower if not your plants lol

Yea but theyre done for in a few days and its back to normal. the house has a 2 stage filter, but its definitely not adequate

People from the county said back in the 50/60s there was an old landfill on this property, and based on the test results, they dont think my well was run deep enough. Its being contaminated by the capped off remains of that old landfill most likely. According to them my levels of heavy metals and hydrogen sulfide shouldn't be possible in this area of the country

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

I’ve had some homies push me towards organic runs. It’s getting to where I’m gonna have to scratch that itch

There would be so much time for activities

it was organic, just add water up until a bout 3 weeks into flower. I'd finish them up with flora bloom and micro though, which are really nutrients intended for hydroponic use. But theyre cheap and i like them, and have used them for ages now. If i know the water im working with i could mix buckets for flower feed blindfolded with that stuff. Only reason i use it. Theres probably better stuff in this day and age, but im stubborn stingy and lazy. N toxicity can be hit easily with these in soil if your not used to it though. 100% nitrate based N. If youre used to ammonia based N in your feeds the NPK ratios can throw you off or feel a little misleading once you start using the product. Itll seem like your plants are getting more N then you think is even available to them.


Sorry for double post lmao

 

[Bilber]

So true Capt.....overwatering and overfeeding......I'm guilty of the latter.....you said dose by 1/3.....after getting my eventual table leveler, I diluted my feed by 1/2 and I'm rolling with this for another week or so.....then decide whether I drop or add more.....

Awesome advice.....it took me a ph pen to figure it out.....even though all the answers are under our .....

 

[Captspaulding]

it was organic, just add water up until a bout 3 weeks into flower. I'd finish them up with flora bloom and micro though, which are really nutrients intended for hydroponic use. But theyre cheap and i like them, and have used them for ages now. If i know the water im working with i could mix buckets for flower feed blindfolded with that stuff. Only reason i use it. Theres probably better stuff in this day and age, but im stubborn stingy and lazy. N toxicity can be hit easily with these in soil if your not careful though. 100% nitrate based N. If youre used to ammonia based N the NPK ratios can throw you off or feel a little misleading once you start using the product.


Sorry for double post lmao

Man the wall has been wonky the last couple few days.

I’ve looked like a drunk trying to type auto correct has been particularly frustrating.

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

So true Capt.....overwatering and overfeeding......I'm guilty of the latter.....you said dose by 1/3.....after getting my eventual table leveler, I diluted my feed by 1/2 and I'm rolling with this for another week or so.....then decide whether I drop or add more.....

Awesome advice.....it took me a ph pen to figure it out.....even though all the answers are under our .....

ahhh, ph pens.


A very useful, highly recommendable tool to have when you don't know exactly what it is you are dealing with. Def never would have even considered using water flowing freely out a pipe the side of a cliff if i didnt have one of those. Was the best water ive ever put on cannabis too.


I hear they make great wobbly table feet too! :P

 

[Captspaulding]

ahhh, ph pens.


A very useful, highly recommendable tool to have when you don't know exactly what it is you are dealing with. Def never would have even considered using water flowing freely out a pipe the side of a cliff if i didnt have one of those. Was the best water ive ever put on cannabis too.


I hear they make great wobbly table feet too! :P

The table is reading right in that goldilox zone now! no neutral solution needed.

 

[Captspaulding]

Well, it be a large beautiful light array and it likes to party.
So I gotta Figure a few things and stud find this beast need lag bots holding weight.

Like blue, it looks glorious

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

The table is reading right in that goldilox zone now! no neutral solution needed.

in the right context, having a ph and ppm meter.... it's like having a calculator on your desk in an algebra 2 course lol. It can save you a staggering amount of headaches and time.


But in the wrong context, a wobbly table will completely ruin your day.


The decision is yours my friend. *makes some sort of new-agey gesture with my hands*



There's definitely some wisdom in this post, i just dont know what it is. Either way, should prob keep one on hand i think is the lesson here lmao.

 

[Captspaulding]

in the right context, having a ph and ppm meter.... it's like having a calculator on your desk in a geometry 2 course lol. It can save you a staggering amount of headaches and time.


But in the wrong context, a wobbly table will completely ruin your day too.

it was a bane to my existence until the general hydroponics combination ph meter and anti wobble apparatus came along

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

If my ph out the faucet fluctuates as much as i suspect it to, i may be testing my ph every time i mix a feed bucket for inside. The hot tub is a poor source of info with how much the water has to be treated, even if it wasnt a crappy well, and its full of PH stabilizers itself. And i already know the day after a rain my well pops up from roughly 6 to nearly 8 and creeps back down, probably a good bit of limestone around to cause that, i am in the mountains. This shouldn't affect the ph of RO water, but the RO filter isnt removing the sulfide gasses and other anaerobic gaseous byproducts.

Im getting a dumb amount of precipitating sulfur when i hit the water with food grade peroxide too, even after RO and testing near 0 ppm (the h2o2 will turn a lot of the sulfide gas thats present into particulate sulfur through oxidation it seems). So im guessing on top of everything else my well is also set into a coal vein. Pretty sure i can just peroxide the RO water, then peroxide, and throw it through a Britta pitcher and be fine. I imagine i should be sitting pretty at normal RO acidity at that point. Or just let it sit with an air stone for a day or two before using. Probably.

im prob only gonna get a month or two per RO membrane here lol. Thats a bitch.

 

[TreeBee]

Woohoo my soil is LOADED with worms! Just did some weeding in my veggy patch getting it ready to grow me some food. So many worms I think I could hear them jamming out with me to some Tragically Hip.

 

[MartyMcFly42oh]

i think the root of stressing out over topping and transplanting autos is just how quickly they start going into flower once growing. But they all dont go straight into flower right away either. Some will veg on for a good bit first.

Technically, every piled up stress factor is GOING to damage end yeild in one way or another on an auto, thats just how it is with them. Technically thats just a fact, and you dont have the ability to prune and continue vegging or clone and try again like with a photoperiod. This creates paranoia in newer growers i think. Not 100% sure, but its def the root of that.

Ive never stressed it much the few times back in the day i grew autos, but i do recommend to new growers especially, to just start them in whatever pot you want to finish them in, and to just let them grow however they want to grow aside from some LST if you so desire. Probably leave the sc and topping/fimming out of the equation, but there are some autos that will respond nicely to it out there, they just arent the more common "tiny plant under a single led panel at 18/6" variety of auto done 8-10 weeks after the seed first pops pulling an ounce or two at finish.

A newer grower would also take a statement like ^that^ as if it were the law too most likely.

I’ve heard that the roots have a lot to do with the plant going into flower, like once they start to get root bound it’ll trip up the flowering process. My last run of autos was in 7 gallon fabric pots with living soil, I might’ve gained a couple extra weeks of veg time. Next go around I’m planning on keeping them small, but I’m going to use coco coir and perlite and run some semi organic liquid nutrients derived from fishies and other oceanic stuff. I’ll be using one gallon fabric pots under my 150 watt ts1000, in a 1x3 area. Who knows how the phuck that’ll go? But I will say that I’m now fully confident that I’ll be able to transplant like a professional,now that Captain Spaulding has bestowed his knowledge of transplanting autos on to us all.

 

[Thatoneguyyouknow_]

I’ve heard that the roots have a lot to do with the plant going into flower, like once they start to get root bound it’ll trip up the flowering process. My last run of autos was in 7 gallon fabric pots with living soil, I might’ve gained a couple extra weeks of veg time. Next go around I’m planning on keeping them small, but I’m going to use coco coir and perlite and run some semi organic liquid nutrients derived from fishies and other oceanic stuff. I’ll be using one gallon fabric pots under my 150 watt ts1000, in a 1x3 area. Who knows how the phuck that’ll go? But I will say that I’m now fully confident that I’ll be able to transplant like a professional,now that Captain Spaulding has bestowed his knowledge of transplanting autos on to us all.

The autos i was running back in the day would start to flower around the same day count whether i had them in soil or DWC hydro, In dwc, root binding isnt just impossible, you can actually trim roots without ill effects on the plants, I could trim half the mass of a root ball away and throw a plant right into flower (photoperiods) and they wouldnt even notice. I could pull 2-3x the expected yields in DWC. In a 14 auto DWC run (2 giant, shallow black Rubbermaid that held close to 40 gallons each) i pulled an average of about a qp off autos with 55-60g expected yields. (this was actually the run that had me taking DWC a lot more seriously too, and why i transitioned my main tents to DWC after that, i grew the autos in soil in a variety of setups before that, even kept a couple going in with clone mothers/rooting clones lol)

The auytos i was running, came from a local (at the time) KC commercial grower that had a ton of auto seeds he wasnt using for some reason or another. They finished from seed in under 80 days regardless what you did with them most about 70 some sooner. They were starting to flower a couple weeks after first true leaves lol. If you topped them or transplanted them, you damaged end yeild no ifs ands or buts.

These were also the only autoflowers ive run personally in my history. And it was because they were free and all GG4 genetics, which has really been one of my favorite modern genotypes, end smoke wise. (even though i hate that the best gg4 makes the air smell like dog poo and hardening epoxy if you're not the one smoking on it)

Out of all those seed, i had one that got real tall before flowering, and it was in soil, had a lot of lanky sativa charachter too. It looked like a re-vegging flowering plant for like a month, then i decided to flip it to 12/12 after i pulled the rest, and it went along flowering normally after that and finished up as a mango pheno :3. She was def autoflowering, but still flowered best under 12/12 for sure. I could have easily got a transplant and some training in on that one 100%, but i wasnt expecting it to grow like it did.

When i barked off the forums about a decade ago, the majority of autos being grown were just like those... small, fast, indica heavy plants that finished in like 70 days sometimes. I have no idea if thats their niche today still honestly. I havent even seen a photo of an autoflower (til recently), let alone had one in front of me, in over half a decade lmao. It's probably something ill stop offering any advice for tbh. Not enough applicable experience for today's grower on those.

So yea, my auto experience is VERY limited just because im not necessarily in need of genetics like that. Ill grow them but they arent something i go after, but transplanting those girls, at best, seemed to cut a bit of yeild off, and make them finish up to a week or so later. In DWC, nothing ever seemed to have them holding off flowering for longer, just got a lot bigger a lot quicker, if anything it sped up the flowering process. So i do tend, with the faster, smaller, more indica autos to recommend not transplanting or topping and using a little bit more arid soil.


That's not to say having that result with auto in DWC actually means anything though, DWC is the odd man out in contrast to literally ALL other methods of growing and you can't make many comparisons or statements that apply to it and another method of cannabis cultivation both. It becomes an either/or, not both/and conversation. I consider it it's own thing honestly separate from the other hydroponic methods as well. It's honestly a miracle DWC even works as well as it does for cannabis. It literally kills most other arid, mineral rich soil-loving plants


Jeez, sorry i type so much.

 

[dankfrank83]

 

[cannafarmer420]