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i gotta disagree with your tomatoe theory lol.to people who like tomatoes theres is a big dif between a poorly grown one and a nice sweet plump tomatoe.plus we tend to not grow tomatoes indoors much.and we tent to just stick it in the dirt and water it once in a while,but with pot plants we tend to hoover over them too much and dump endless bloom boosters on it to make it better and alot of times it ends up creating problems.you bring a tomatoe indoors and use bottled nutes and hps and you will find out pretty quick you must be on your game in order to harvest enough food to cover the light bill.plus they are a major pm magnet indoors lol.i guess what im sayin is with a good strain and good soil,marijuana can be super simple to grow.my largest pot plants to date are still all outdoor stuff that was in great soil,where all i ever did was water 2 x a week and hit em with a lil kelp 2 x during august.thats it,my people went ape shit crazy over that stuff.
i agree with all of this except price of a digi...i just got a 1k digi ballast for 109$@THCdurk ^^ x 2. Mags are cheaper too. If you are even the least bit handy, you can get kits for mags & build them yourself. HTG has them in fact. You can build like a 1k ballast for $100 or so. A digital is going to cost you at least twice that.
The mags run way hotter, so most people keep it outside of the space. Digi's you can have in the space, but I prefer to keep them out too because of the humidity. Digi's can often be dimmed, but I never use that feature personally. I want max light al the time.
I have two digitals & one mag right now, & I'm actually sorry I spent the money on the digitals. The mag I had from previous runs.
Oh, & the mags are also deceptively heavy, but I'm strong like bull.
Edit** If i recall correctly, mags also lengthen bulb life a little bit
i get all mine from RogueHydro.comAbout to give some air pots a try. Tried the fabric ones in the past but didn't care for them. Looking to grab some 3 gallon air pots. Where should I look? @Tnelz
i may not answer you till monday cause im on the road to my north country spot for the holiday and cell service can be hit or miss,mostly miss lol.but ill get back atcha when i return.peaceYou make a good point, I'm probably not being as picky about the tomatoes.
But, I'll say lettuce (actually, this is a way better example) I've got lettuce outside (till a couple days ago) that I haven't touched since planting. Just watered it when we were dry a few times, most times though, I let the rain do the work. Other than that, I haven't touched it. It's beautiful, it's tasty, it's nearly perfect. Much better than you would find in a store. Aside from throwing the seeds down & watering when it was desperate, I don't even touch it.
Cannabis is much trickier to get a good final product. You make a good point (again) about "hovering" over the plants, & thus causing problems. I got over that a long time ago though. That's why I'm Rdwc/res...I want to do as little work as possible. But if I treated my cannabis (indoors) with the same care I give my lettuce, the product would be very poor.
No gardener I know of is testing what nutes to give during what week with lettuce. It's pretty hard to screw up. Maybe it's just me, but cannabis seems much more finicky to get a good result.
I intended to hit you up about something...so you'll get a pm later tonight. Family is coming over.
Ah MG. I always find your posts fascinating@Lazerus00 You didn't come off wrong at all man. No reason to ever look negative towards valid perspectives; right? I was actually glad you brought up that other places are saying 2. The only possible downside then, is that I relayed redundant info haha.
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I guess with the small pot / rootbound thing; I'm just about always in that situation / have dealt with that quite a bit. Most technically the term itself is in reference to roots binding (choking) each other.
IMHO A plant can go quite a ways into being rootbound without issue. Though it becomes much more important to not lose any roots the closer you get to that point. Whereas in larger pots you can be losing roots all the time, while new grows (i.e. normal) and you'd never know it was happening. Whether that loss is from localized EC variations, dry soil, nutrient imbalance or even roots choking themselves. The roots choking themselves is the point of no return / plant must be up-potted. If you DO lose many roots as a result of any items above; then there will be a period of correction even after an up-pot, so I try to up-pot just before if given an option.
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@gravekat303
I'm very comfortable with maximum rooting density with coir, peat or combos of the two; but not familiar with FFOF maximum density, so i could not offer if that (rootbound) would be the case for you.
-I agree with Tnelz that being negatively impacted via root density issues can / does show the effects your seeing.
-I also wonder,........did this plant get too dry a week to ten days ago by chance? Drying out can instigate lockout scenarios too.
On a separate note but of possible value here; there are a couple other elements that can cause the effects your seeing. Again this is an IMHO thing, but I've noticed that in particular week 2-4 of flower is the most probable time to see some loss of "a couple" lower shade leaves. When I switched to the new / correct methods, I would lose maybe 6-7 leaves whereas my old "Wrong" ways; would only lose 3-4. (again I don't remove any leaves as training, some loss is normal).
This was something that intrigued me as my old methods had no N+ and new methods quite obviously did. I wondered (and also asked a well respected person on the forum several times) why this was happening when everything should be right. By any book or diagnosis, if I were to show you a lower leaf pic from then; all would say N-. If I were to show a top leaf, all diagnosis would say N+. I wondered how that could even be possible. In the end I finally got this senescence back to normal. again IMHO.
-Mg (minus) during week 2-4 can cause an increase in loss of lower leaves. *without necessarily having necrotic early signs.
-P (minus) during week 2-4 can also cause an increased loss of lower leaves. *also without necrotic spots and further without any yield related P issues if P is unchanged for the remainder of flower. (provided P- is not from poor root health).
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In your situation gravekat the ideas already suggested should correct your issue. I'm not suggesting you throw P or Mg....or not to up-pot; rather just to post some findings / things I focus on in that particular period of flower.
You'll get her back in shape!!
Last. --------- I hope everyone has a good New Year!!!!
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/dirty-little-box.49990/Anybody here ever run coco beds with multiple plants in it? Beds sized 2x4 and up.
@Lazerus00 my answer to your question is absolutely. It's my opinion one is the direct cause of the other. If you remember about 50 pages ago I was bitching about my rks plants giving me fits. What was happening was exactly the symptoms we are seeing in those pics. Yellowing from the bottom up indicating n being short. Well they weren't to big so being root bound wasn't on my mind. So I threw a little extra n at them and it was a minimal increase. Well I ended up with burnt tips just a bit and the problem was still going on. So I ultimately came to the conclusion they were root bound so I up potted and whap everything is fine. Dialed the n back and they showed zero issues. So based on that experience and a few others like it I feel that that's what we are seeing.
A transplant should be the first thing you do before fixing shit that aint broke.
If a transplant dont fix it, you can narrow it down easier... especially since a Tx will solve 85-90% of your problems.
All this talk of HPS... Am I the only one flowering under CMH?
I use the 860 phillips CMH in a 1000w ballast all the way from veg through flower.
Frost is definitely greater, stretch is reduced, density is still on point... yield might suffer a touch, but I care less about that...
also, in a good water only soil, every day is a flush day....
I just don't knowif I feel like transplanting 50 of these might just hit the hash binA transplant should be the first thing you do before fixing shit that aint broke.
If a transplant dont fix it, you can narrow it down easier... especially since a Tx will solve 85-90% of your problems.
All this talk of HPS... Am I the only one flowering under CMH?
I use the 860 phillips CMH in a 1000w ballast all the way from veg through flower.
Frost is definitely greater, stretch is reduced, density is still on point... yield might suffer a touch, but I care less about that...
also, in a good water only soil, every day is a flush day....
A transplant should be the first thing you do before fixing shit that aint broke.
If a transplant dont fix it, you can narrow it down easier... especially since a Tx will solve 85-90% of your problems.
All this talk of HPS... Am I the only one flowering under CMH?
I use the 860 phillips CMH in a 1000w ballast all the way from veg through flower.
Frost is definitely greater, stretch is reduced, density is still on point... yield might suffer a touch, but I care less about that...
also, in a good water only soil, every day is a flush day....
EXACTLY what I was tryin to see . 2x4 tent and bed with coco
I just don't know if I feel like transplanting 50 of these might just hit the hash bin
You trying to rock some t5 too?Thanks man thats
EXACTLY what I was tryin to see . 2x4 tent and bed with coco
I just don't knowif I feel like transplanting 50 of these might just hit the hash bin
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