MGRox
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- Aug 6, 2014
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Been snooping a bit more in preparation to relay more urea related stuff. I ran into a couple of interesting points that I was not aware of. Did you know that plants have Nitrate Exporters!?!? That they can / do put nitrate into the soil.
@miko Have you tried reversing when you have plants under those lights? Ex. CMH the last 2-3 weeks instead?
@Lazerus00 Dang, sorry to hear that those seedlings aren't out of the woods yet. Guess when I sprout, I don't consider them fully "popped" until I get that first Real watering in (not watering when potted..first water with nutes). I'm the type that never hardly cleans cutting scissors, but at the same time I am paranoid about sterility /moisture with beans until they hit that first real water.
Suppose when I first pot a bean into its' first container (usually 12-16oz); I only water to around 60-70% saturation. I try to ensure that the first watering is no longer than 3 days. Each day that a soil remains wet (most particularly in this stage), it increases the potential for issues (rot, mold, bacteria, fungal, pH, o2 etc).
As well since the plant doesn't have any immunal defenses; IMHO, moisture periods low enough to impact pathogens but not so low as to kill roots can be a beneficial "treatment".
If your pretty sure that these are still being impacted and are not likely to survive; you can do a more extreme process.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2174868/
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC157394/pdf/1080727.pdf
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12232410
a little excerpt from the first linked;
"In well-supplied and nonstressed plants, NO3− efflux can be high but remains lower than influx, and long-term control of the uptake regime relies on the regulation of active influx transport systems. Upon certain biotic or abiotic stresses, such as mechanical or transplant shocks or medium acidification, marked increases of NO3− efflux leading to (net) NO3− excretion were reported. The biological significance of this response remains obscure, as does more generally the physiological role of root NO3− efflux."
From the second paper;
"The results indicate that at acidic pH the decrease in net NO3- uptake is due to the stimulation of efflux, whereas at basic pH, it is due to the inhibition of influx."
from the third abstract;
"Hence, the main effect of NH4+ on net NO3- and NO2- uptake appears to be due to enhancement of efflux and not to inhibition of influx."
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC157394/pdf/1080727.pdf
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12232410
a little excerpt from the first linked;
"In well-supplied and nonstressed plants, NO3− efflux can be high but remains lower than influx, and long-term control of the uptake regime relies on the regulation of active influx transport systems. Upon certain biotic or abiotic stresses, such as mechanical or transplant shocks or medium acidification, marked increases of NO3− efflux leading to (net) NO3− excretion were reported. The biological significance of this response remains obscure, as does more generally the physiological role of root NO3− efflux."
From the second paper;
"The results indicate that at acidic pH the decrease in net NO3- uptake is due to the stimulation of efflux, whereas at basic pH, it is due to the inhibition of influx."
from the third abstract;
"Hence, the main effect of NH4+ on net NO3- and NO2- uptake appears to be due to enhancement of efflux and not to inhibition of influx."
@Lazerus00 Dang, sorry to hear that those seedlings aren't out of the woods yet. Guess when I sprout, I don't consider them fully "popped" until I get that first Real watering in (not watering when potted..first water with nutes). I'm the type that never hardly cleans cutting scissors, but at the same time I am paranoid about sterility /moisture with beans until they hit that first real water.
Suppose when I first pot a bean into its' first container (usually 12-16oz); I only water to around 60-70% saturation. I try to ensure that the first watering is no longer than 3 days. Each day that a soil remains wet (most particularly in this stage), it increases the potential for issues (rot, mold, bacteria, fungal, pH, o2 etc).
As well since the plant doesn't have any immunal defenses; IMHO, moisture periods low enough to impact pathogens but not so low as to kill roots can be a beneficial "treatment".
If your pretty sure that these are still being impacted and are not likely to survive; you can do a more extreme process.
I've had it work in the past at this stage, though the plant will probably still take a while to recover. You can fill a container with water that is a fair bit larger than your pot. Try to separate the medium from container directly above the water so there is little to no drop. Once medium is separate, allow it to drop into the water and gently slosh the water by moving the larger container. Slowly and carefully separate the medium from what roots are there via water motion, not physical separation. Remove the bare seedling and carefully re-plant in sterile (microwaved) soilless medium (not organic!) Preferably the new container should be as small as possible < 160z. Water only enough to see that the soil is "wet" in appearance throughout (I.e. 50% saturation max). water being veg based chemical nutes @ 0.5-0.6 EC . Wait as long as possible before re-watering.
