To flush or not to flush?

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Fro5ty

Fro5ty

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Are you talking about just the very tips? I read your posts but I don’t see any symptoms looking at your leaves. is it very dry in the grow room?
Humidity is on the high side, between 45 and 59%. I have dark leafs. All of them really. Burned edges and tips, this is on older and newer growth. Yellow spots appear on leafs like with pH swings, but I adjust pH true tank so pH swings should be fine.
 
theNedster

theNedster

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Humidity is on the high side, between 45 and 59%. I have dark leafs. All of them really. Burned edges and tips, this is on older and newer growth. Yellow spots appear on leafs like with pH swings, but I adjust pH true tank so pH swings should be fine.
Is it possible you are chasing PH? I’m asking because I‘ve been there. I used to have a similar problem when I lived in a different city. I was told it’s chlorine in city water and that it destabilizes the PH. I was recommended a de-chlorinator and it solved my problem back then. It’s dirt cheap and you added like 5 ml per 10 gallons. You should be able to find it anywhere, I don’t remember the specific brand. Might be worth a try unless you know you have no chlorine.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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He asks me why I think I'm having a lockout, RIGHT UNDER a comment where I explain that my EC increases 0.3 in 24H and my plants aren't drinking. You guys are just fucking with me, right?

The same with your: "Your plan is gonna fuck it up" and then just leaving, no answer why? No reason why? Just, "You're gonna fuck it up. BYE!" Like. This is to fuck with me, right? You didn't help me. Didn't gave me any information. You just told me I was wrong and left...

Why?

I was trying to prevent you from making a rookie mistake that you would almost surely regret. RO water creates a stressful osmotic pressure situation in the rootzone if you don't add nutrients to it.

Also, a .3 ec raise doesn't indicate a lockout. Could very well be an environmental problem. Or you are mixing your nutrients in the wrong order. Or your roots are compromised somehow. Loads of possibilities..

Also, you can flush out crusty media where lockout actually happens, but you can not flush nutrients out of a plant. Nor does a lockout situation happen inside of the plant, it happens in the media and the rootzone.
In over 20 years of growing I think I might have seen a true lockout situation maybe once or twice. It's actually pretty rare and not gonna happen at 1.1ec. DWC. Lockout happens when incompatible nutrients in high concentrations combine to form insoluble compounds and precipitate from solution or crust up in the media.
 
Observationist

Observationist

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The EC went from 1.0 to 1.1 and then even 1.2 in 3 days. I'm afraid that I have to flush. Also the person above, is giving advice for soil, i think?
Yes.

soil is a buffer, hydro responds much quicker
 
Fro5ty

Fro5ty

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Is it possible you are chasing PH? I’m asking because I‘ve been there. I used to have a similar problem when I lived in a different city. I was told it’s chlorine in city water and that it destabilizes the PH. I was recommended a de-chlorinator and it solved my problem back then. It’s dirt cheap and you added like 5 ml per 10 gallons. You should be able to find it anywhere, I don’t remember the specific brand. Might be worth a try unless you know you have no chlorine.
Thanks for your input I will look into this.

My pH increases when I put new water in the system. From 5 4 to +6 pretty much instantly. It settles after 2-3 days. That's then only 2-3 days before a new waterchange
 
Fro5ty

Fro5ty

161
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I was trying to prevent you from making a rookie mistake that you would almost surely regret. RO water creates a stressful osmotic pressure situation in the rootzone if you don't add nutrients to it.

Also, a .3 ec raise doesn't indicate a lockout. Could very well be an environmental problem. Or you are mixing your nutrients in the wrong order. Or your roots are compromised somehow. Loads of possibilities..

Also, you can flush out crusty media where lockout actually happens, but you can not flush nutrients out of a plant. Nor does a lockout situation happen inside of the plant, it happens in the media and the rootzone.
In over 20 years of growing I think I might have seen a true lockout situation maybe once or twice. It's actually pretty rare and not gonna happen at 1.1ec. DWC. Lockout happens when incompatible nutrients in high concentrations combine to form insoluble compounds and precipitate from solution or crust up in the media.
Thank you! Now I actually know why you tell me I will regret flushing.

I have noticed a foul smell in the growroom. Could root rot be the problem then? The plants are to big for me to lift them up all the way. I can only look at the base of the roots, where they come out of the netpot. The roots look nice white, and firm at the netpot. pH has increased the last 24h from 6.1 to 6.5. So that looks to be normal again for the first 24h after a waterchange.

I have been having dark leafs, burning and yellowing since the beginning. Only slightly but it has definitely increased since the last waterchange. Is it because I didn't add calmag then? My last water only had the 3part and it was mixed in the right order. A new water change with the water in my tank (which I needed to free to fill with RO water) didn't change the rise in EC. So mixing the nutes wrong can be canceled out.

I also left some nutes in my flush water. Was planning to give it 0.2EC
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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Thank you! Now I actually know why you tell me I will regret flushing.

I have noticed a foul smell in the growroom. Could root rot be the problem then? The plants are to big for me to lift them up all the way. I can only look at the base of the roots, where they come out of the netpot. The roots look nice white, and firm at the netpot. pH has increased the last 24h from 6.1 to 6.5. So that looks to be normal again for the first 24h after a waterchange.

I have been having dark leafs, burning and yellowing since the beginning. Only slightly but it has definitely increased since the last waterchange. Is it because I didn't add calmag then? My last water only had the 3part and it was mixed in the right order. A new water change with the water in my tank (which I needed to free to fill with RO water) didn't change the rise in EC. So mixing the nutes wrong can be canceled out.

I also left some nutes in my flush water. Was planning to give it 0.2EC
Are you using any ph up? Or silica?

A foul smell is certainly not good in a growrrom. Are you using anything to protect against bacteria etc? Hydrogen peroxide is a common sanitizer used in hydro for sterile systems, either that or hydroguard or similar innoculant?
 
Observationist

Observationist

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It is. Unless you're Aqua Man lol.
You need to have a solid understanding of both water chemistry and plant science to pull it off consistently.
Sweet, ima learn about that next, right now ima stick to my coco lol
 
Observationist

Observationist

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Are you using any ph up? Or silica?

A foul smell is certainly not good in a growrrom. Are you using anything to protect against bacteria etc? Hydrogen peroxide is a common sanitizer used in hydro for sterile systems, either that or hydroguard or similar innoculant?
I was smelling something off in my humidity dome, too much heat, too much water grew some bacteria, used peroxide got rid of the excess heat and water, moved most into coco cups and saved them!
 
Fro5ty

Fro5ty

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Are you using any ph up? Or silica?

A foul smell is certainly not good in a growrrom. Are you using anything to protect against bacteria etc? Hydrogen peroxide is a common sanitizer used in hydro for sterile systems, either that or hydroguard or similar innoculant?
I use ph up. I used to add hydroguard but am currently out. New bottle will be delivered end of the week. I have h2o2 ready in case I need to disinfect the RDWC. Should I do that, instead of flushing?
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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I use ph up. I used to add hydroguard but am currently out. New bottle will be delivered end of the week. I have h2o2 ready in case I need to disinfect the RDWC. Should I do that, instead of flushing?
Yes for sure, you should be using something to protect against bacteria.
I use 29% peroxide at the rate of 3ml/gallon of of nutrient solution with every new res, or once every 3 days, whichever comes first.

Are you adding your ph up before or after adding nutrients?
 
Observationist

Observationist

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Yes for sure, you should be using something to protect against bacteria.
I use 29% peroxide at the rate of 3ml/gallon of of nutrient solution with every new res, or once every 3 days, whichever comes first.

Are you adding your ph up before or after adding nutrients?
you put the peroxide in the res?

i wasnt sure if it would kill a plant or not...
 
Observationist

Observationist

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I do, religiously. Doesn't harm the plants one bit if used at the right concentration.
Ok cool I was using to spray my humidity dome and sanitize it, forgot I used it once for PM, but burnt my leafs I did it during day though so no wonder.
 
Fro5ty

Fro5ty

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Yes for sure, you should be using something to protect against bacteria.
I use 29% peroxide at the rate of 3ml/gallon of of nutrient solution with every new res, or once every 3 days, whichever comes first.

Are you adding your ph up before or after adding nutrients?

I add pH down (barely used pH up so far) after nutrients and before the hydroguard (heard pH up can kill the bacteria). My h2o2 is 16% I think. So I will double your dose and give 5.8ml per gallon.

So I'm going to use my fresh water to make a new solution, with calmag again added because the burned tips have gotten worse since(?) I didn't add it the last time.

For the next 2 days I will just let the reservoir with just pH ballanced RO water feed the RDWC, to not let the last solution go to waste. It's a new solution that has been in the RDWC for not even 2 days atm. That way I will counter the rise in EC. Or should I go ahead and just change it out completely?

I want to thank you for reading my comments!
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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I add pH down (barely used pH up so far) after nutrients and before the hydroguard (heard pH up can kill the bacteria). My h2o2 is 16% I think. So I will double your dose and give 5.8ml per gallon.

So I'm going to use my fresh water to make a new solution, with calmag again added because the burned tips have gotten worse since(?) I didn't add it the last time.

For the next 2 days I will just let the reservoir with just pH ballanced RO water feed the RDWC, to not let the last solution go to waste. It's a new solution that has been in the RDWC for not even 2 days atm. That way I will counter the rise in EC. Or should I go ahead and just change it out completely?

I want to thank you for reading my comments!

Hmm, tough call but 2 more days before a res change won't be a big deal, although I would use a slightly stronger dose of peroxide at about 7ml/gallon of 18%.

And no problem. I like helping people, but don't always have the time to fully explain why I recommend a certain treatment or action. I get that it's frustrating when you're looking for understanding, more so than just the answer. Just the way she goes.
 

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