vangs
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- Jan 22, 2012
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what would you recommend for MA? ac or chiller. id say RH is avg.
what would you recommend for MA? ac or chiller. id say RH is avg.They use water chilling to cool the big buildings so no matter how big your op, there's a water chiller sized for you. Yes, you would likely have a bigger res., although cooling capacity isn't affected by res. size as much as cycling frequency.
WA has both wet and dry climates, depending on which side of the mtns you're on! So I need to know if you're dropping or dedicating, lol. In the dry, get a chiller. In the wet, AC is your best choice... unless you can afford a heat pump.
what would you recommend for MA? ac or chiller. id say RH is avg.
I do use sealed vent hoods, but draw from outside the room and exhaust is outside; so I guess I am a sealed system. I burn natural gas for CO2 which is piped in not using any cylinders with two different A/C units; one for veg and the other for bloom, have indoor holding tank for water, and grow in soil.'Sealed' refers to an approach, not so much to whether the room itself is hermetically sealed. If no air is exchanged between the room and anywhere else, then it's said to be a sealed room. If you seal and vent your hoods, but draw the air from outside the room and exhaust it outside, the room is still a sealed room style.
Yes, of course leaks count- usually against you, so close them. I'm just saying that it's not necessary to be obsessive about it.
after much thought,I have come to the conclusion thatbecause it's a sealed room,outside environment will conditions are irrelevant.in other words,use a chiller all the time everywhere.
Use all time everywhere- real efficiency talk.
So if a chiller is the better more energy efficient way to go, could you please link me to a chiller that would handle a sealed 12x12, 4000 watt, Co2 genie, dehumidifier setup. I'm sorry if this is a lot to ask, but I'm completely ignorant to how to use chillers or even how they work? Thanks in advance.
I could have been more clear^ - I did mean using the chillers everywhere is real efficient, did not mean for that to sound like I was talking about your typing. Sorry to hear about the surgery.
F*** that!
What's this in reference to? As a comment, this one is a bit lacking in clarity, lol
LOL sorry this was posted on the wrong thread I had multiple windows open at the time. perhaps if a mod drops by they will delete it for us.
Going to change gears on everyone now. Moving from chillers, A/C's, and heat pumps to lights.
It has been nine months since I have changed my bulbs. I have four-4'x8' trays in perpetual blooming stages in my bloom room so I change them on a nine month rotation and sell the usued bulbs to the tent growers on Craigslist. In veg I have two trays; one 4'x8' and a 4'x4'. I use 1000Wt Metal Halide for vegging and in bloom I use 1000Wt High Pressure Sodium in Maverick Sun fixtures {Big Foot Lights & Premium Steel Ballasts}. Each tray has two lights and ballasts covering them. Remember this is a sealed system...
Question 1. Is nine months too soon to change my bulbs? Someone told me to extend my cycle time to one year. Last time I changed at nine months there was a noticable difference in output. Both in light and in volume.
Question 2. I wonder if I should update my fixtures. They are a year and a half old and some newer technology has come out. However; I don't think the dollars are worth changing over yet. If I change what are your suggestions.
Question 3. I heard the newer Red spectrum bulbs are awesome. However they are very expensive and I am not so sure they are really wotrth the expense.
Yes. I vent my lights.Do you vent your lights?
Oh... I would have recommended Gavita Pros, but if you vent then I don't know. With Gavita's you can go 2 years on the bulb with little deterioration, but you do have to change the reflectors quite often...
The difference is that non sealed and vented hoods will require more cooling. The Gavita Proline DE double ended 1000w HPS and the ballast and open reflector are all designed to work together to produce over 70% more light per watt than conventional screw in thouies. This system can even be overdriven by 15%, producing nearly double the light. Expensive, but it pays for itself in bulb savings and increased electrical efficiency, often twice over during the first two years!
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