Using Perfect PH from Advanced Nutrients. My ph is 7.7

[MIMedGrower]

There is a video out here that shows advanced demoing the ph perfect nutes. Im sure there are instructions too but i have never even read the bottles.

The video showed a res with the proper temp and ppm’s for the stable ph.

Sorry i dont have time to search for the info right now.

Mixing tap and ro will still over buffer the nute system i am sure. Advanced is not trying to save anyone any money thats for sure.

 

[oldskol4evr]

There is a video out here that shows advanced demoing the ph perfect nutes. Im sure there are instructions too but i have never even read the bottles.

The video showed a res with the proper temp and ppm’s for the stable ph.

Sorry i dont have time to search for the info right now.

Mixing tap and ro will still over buffer the nute system i am sure. Advanced is not trying to save anyone any money thats for sure.

ya be real hard to convince me to buy that stuff,like i mentioned above sounds like a gimmick to me hahaah i wouldnt doubt at all that you are right

 

[cemchris]

Is the ph perfect made for hydro or soil? That's going to be 2 way different ph's its trying to maintain Just sounds like it has a shit ton of buffers in it so if it is sitting that high after using it you might want to switch to the regular 3 part from them. You will be fighting the buffers and prob have to use so much down you will be wacking almost 100 ppm or more of P by the time you get it to where you want it. 7 is way too high for what you are doing. In the end that stuff is going to be more trouble and money then it's worth since it takes the control out of your hands, and in rdwc, that is exactly what you want.

I use Advanced PH Down since its so concentrated and don't want to fuck with pure acid....that's about it and the only money they would ever get from me.

 

[chuey316]

It's made for hydro. I only bought it because of reading from people about how it would keep their ph in the perfect range throughout the grow. Guess I'll see what happens when I switch to RO. Hopefully the ph corrects. Wanted one less thing to constantly adjust to make it easier for my 1st hydro run. We'll see what happens, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. Also, it says 5 in 1, but it's only 3 bottles. Is that right? There's a Micro, a Grow, and a Bloom. Doesn't mention anything else.

 

[Aqua Man]

There is a video out here that shows advanced demoing the ph perfect nutes. Im sure there are instructions too but i have never even read the bottles.

The video showed a res with the proper temp and ppm’s for the stable ph.

Sorry i dont have time to search for the info right now.

Mixing tap and ro will still over buffer the nute system i am sure. Advanced is not trying to save anyone any money thats for sure.

Yeah if they call for RO which I think they do you kinda hooped on it and I would say go full RO.

 

[OldManRiver]

General Hydroponics makes a mix for hard water, you might want to try that if RO water is too hard to get.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Is the ph perfect made for hydro or soil? That's going to be 2 way different ph's its trying to maintain Just sounds like it has a shit ton of buffers in it so if it is sitting that high after using it you might want to switch to the regular 3 part from them. You will be fighting the buffers and prob have to use so much down you will be wacking almost 100 ppm or more of P by the time you get it to where you want it. 7 is way too high for what you are doing. In the end that stuff is going to be more trouble and money then it's worth since it takes the control out of your hands, and in rdwc, that is exactly what you want.

I use Advanced PH Down since its so concentrated and don't want to fuck with pure acid....that's about it and the only money they would ever get from me.

Its for hydro with a resivour.

 

[newh]

Clones transplanted from soil. Pic is from 1 day later.

its gonna need a minute to get used to a new way of growing,soil and hydro work in different ways.they wont make it in hydro if you cant control your ph soil is much more forgiving

 

[newh]

It's made for hydro. I only bought it because of reading from people about how it would keep their ph in the perfect range throughout the grow. Guess I'll see what happens when I switch to RO. Hopefully the ph corrects. Wanted one less thing to constantly adjust to make it easier for my 1st hydro run. We'll see what happens, but I don't think I'll be buying it anymore. Also, it says 5 in 1, but it's only 3 bottles. Is that right? There's a Micro, a Grow, and a Bloom. Doesn't mention anything else.

hydroguard is beneficial bacteria for hydro growing.

 

[chuey316]

Drained the system and refilled with 30 gallons of RO. PH is sitting at 6.5 right now, with 30 ppm. Plants gotten noticeably lighter since last night. What PPM should I shoot for? Don't want to mix too hot if they need recovery time.

 

[OldManRiver]

Drained the system and refilled with 30 gallons of RO. PH is sitting at 6.5 right now, with 30 ppm. Plants gotten noticeably lighter since last night. What PPM should I shoot for? Don't want to mix too hot if they need recovery time.

do 50% of mfr recommended

 

[chuey316]

Thanks. Mixed everything up, and now my ph is 6.1, and 169ppm. Sound good?

 

[sshz]

If you go with R.O. water, you'll need to supplement with Cal/Mag as the device strips the Cal/Mag out of the water. I ended up using 10ml per gallon or my plants would start tacoing.

 

[chuey316]

Were you using Perfect PH nutes? I know AN says not to use cal/mag, then 1/2 the post I've read say no cal/mag, and the other 1/2 say to use it.

 

[Aqua Man]

150 -200ppm is about where ya wanna be until the settle in. If they were seedlings a bit lower but you right on for now.

Your ph is good. I wouldn't even try to adjust it with this nutrient line. If it goes outa whack do a res change.

I would hold off on the cal mag until you see early signs of deficiency but have never used this line. If you wanna be safe maybe 1/4-1/2 the manufacturer recommendations for cal mag as I'm sure they took this into account when developing it for RO water. The reason I say that is because sometimes under led you may see a deficiency.

Measure you ppm and water uptake daily. This will give you an idea if you need to feed more or less.

 

[JWM2]

Under decent LEDs in my experience the plants will use a lot more nutrients than you might be expecting. And they use up phosphorus quickly. Too much calcium can bind to and tie up nutrients in your growing medium and make them unavailable to the plant. Most nutrient lines have calcium in them. Additional calcium is rarely needed and often used as a cureall whenever the grower sees issues popping up.

 

[sshz]

I have used the fertilizer, although I'm not currently. Seedlings and such I added 5 ml per gallon, just to replace what was normally found in any water. After weeks 2-3 in veg, I upped it to 10 ml. As was said above, you can wait til they start tacoing, then add it but marijuana is a heavy user and I'd rather the plants have everything they need from day 1.

 

[Aqua Man]

Thanks. Mixed everything up, and now my ph is 6.1, and 169ppm. Sound good?

If you used RO and added the nutrients in proper ratios I would leave it. Again I'm not familiar with this line but I have read many posts of people chasing the ph with this product that didn't end well.

 

[JWM2]

With RO water ph is a useless metric. There’s not enough dissolved minerals in it to keep it stable. Blue lab meters say not to use them in straight RO or distilled water as they will ruin the probes and that seems to be true as @1diesel1 can attest. With purified water such as RO or distilled the ph of the water itself is null. When doing the slurry test using purified water the liquid takes on the ph of the soil very quickly. That’s what makes the slurry test so accurate. You can test ph and ppm’s of your soil using the slurry test. When in doubt do slurry tests. It will show you where you are at and give you the ability to make adjustments to get back on track.

The blue lab soil ph meter is basically an automatic slurry test. You need somewhat damp soil and then you insert the probe into a hole you bore with the spiked probe case. It’s just an easier way of doing a slurry test to get the results quicker. But of course it costs about $150 for that meter and it costs nothing to do a slurry test the old fashioned way.

Search slurry test on here and you’ll find my step by step guides with pics and all on how to do it. Imo it should be the first thing every soil gardener learns.

 

[Aqua Man]

With RO water ph is a useless metric. There’s not enough dissolved minerals in it to keep it stable. Blue lab meters say not to use them in straight RO or distilled water as they will ruin the probes and that seems to be true as @1diesel1 can attest. With purified water such as RO or distilled the ph of the water itself is null. When doing the slurry test using purified water the liquid takes on the ph of the soil very quickly. That’s what makes the slurry test so accurate. You can test ph and ppm’s of your soil using the slurry test. When in doubt do slurry tests. It will show you where you are at and give you the ability to make adjustments to get back on track.

Yeah distilled and RO water have to have buffers addeded back. Ph perfect is hydro and contains buffers so once added it stabilizes the ph. I would say this is why chasing it usually results in problems