Veg + bloom dirty and ogbiowar bennies.

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bangbang

bangbang

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Ok... well here we go.
I am so grateful for the farm and all you fellow farmers. Thank you for all the info and time you have contributed. I have learned more in the last few months from this forum than I have in my 8 years growing. :)

So I figure it is time for me to contribute. When I first found the farm I found Hydroponics research VEG +Bloom. I was looking into a great K.I.S.S formula and I went for it. I have been happy about the result.

For my previous crop I ran it in ocean forest with added perlite in 3 gal smart pots. It is in a sealed room with

temps around. 74,
rh at 50%. after week 4. flower.
co2 ppm 1200.

Next run I will have these more dialed in. Thanks to you all at the FARM...

I believe I fert burned my previous crop at around week 4 in flower. I was going back and forth between are. my lights to close or is this fert burn for a hot min. But looking back at my chart and after reading into other peoples e.c levels I think I went to high. I was around 1.8 ec when the signs started to show. thankfully they stopped but the overall results definitely are a reflection of this.

(note. this is my first time growing with air cooled hoods. hence.. are my lights to close???)

For this next run. I will be growing a master/bubba strain that I got from my buddy. Wish I had more details.. but thats all folks.

I just picked up a 5 lb Veg+ bloom DIRTY... ITs their new product specialized for soil and peat. IT is brand new so I figured I show you the results.

I am also going to be incorporating capulators. ogbiowar bennies.... I am really excited about this. My previous run I strictly used V+B and Hyroplex at day 41 flower. A lil root excellulator in the beginning. But yes I took the plunge and just used V+B practically the whole run.

SO here we go..!!!!!
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
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Previous crop... this was the og I was runing. for some reason I didn't take any photos of the bubba/master. I am about to run.... oppps...

week 2 ish bloom
IMG 20130329 183724 296
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
33
Ok. like I said. I do not have any photos of my the bubba/master. but I just snapped a shot so you can see a sample of our Dirty x ogbiowar test subject.... She is sexy as fuck...

Happy ladies. installed an ac unit in the veg.... it was gehto fabulous a few days ago. Only had a t 8 light fixture... :(
but just got these t5's 8 bulb fixtures. 170 out the door in socal... they are sun light supply. Let me know if you are in need. I am not selling them. But I put allot of time in on Craigslist and calling stores. So I figured save you some time if needed.
I am a lil behind in veg so I turned on some co2. I have been hearing mixed reviews about co2 in veg. But I read somewhere. that if RH is around 70% and temp is around 75-80. ppm at 700. it is good.
It has only been like this for 24 hrs... between this and their first ogbiowar tea.... they have definitely perked up...
IMG 20130511 143103 751
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
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Master/bubba
day 65
about to come down in a few dayzzzzzz.... :)
Took these shots through my method 7 glasses with my phone camera.... HA.. it works
The new army is looking good. Can't wait for the new run with the V+B dirty/ ogbiowar bennies... and some kinks worked out.. peace
IMG 20130513 234508 813

IMG 20130513 234631 377
Og Strain.... Stankyyyy
IMG 20130513 234722 141
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Really looking good. On that first pic it looks like the kush needed a little more Mg. You can always add a little Epsom salt (.25 grams/gal) to your mix to give a little extra mg and sulfur after about week 4 of bloom.
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
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sub'd

Really looking good. On that first pic it looks like the kush needed a little more Mg. You can always add a little Epsom salt (.25 grams/gal) to your mix to give a little extra mg and sulfur after about week 4 of bloom.


Thanks Cap.. the ladies loved their first bath of OGBIOWAR tea.... Thanks for the insight regarding the mg... Unfortunately I am not running that strain this round. But will next time... she is amazing. Wow. I am so stoked to be here at the farm... CAn't believe this place exist.. You guys rock!

this shit looks stunning.
it boggles my mind that a dumb slick post about girl scout cookies gets a thousand likes and watches but people arent watchin the real kill go down right here.

Thanks. This one is gonna be a good one... dialing in my room's rh and temps accordingly to the Vpd charts... Really excited to finally be exposed to this.... ITs blast off time.

Every farmer should be in the loop
User299140 pic892488 1338439953



Good luck on your new run BB, I'll be tuned in for the show

Justblazen. Glad you found it. I make sure the ride is well worth it!
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
33
Ok... its been a very productive night of research.

I have been exploring v.p.d (vapor pressure deficiency) in the mist of this d.i.f (difference between day and night temperate) has come to my attention.

For those not fimilar with v.p.d


As a result I am in search of the best system to control v.p.d. with the flexibility to control D.I.F (ideally a controler/ But I am also interested everyones personal experience in this area. Any positive results using -( negative) d.i.f.??)

Here is an article I found regarding D.I.F.?
This thread is found here:
But. the article is below. in purps....

Taken from High Times' 2006 Seed Guide.


What's The Dif?
Manipulating Plant Performance with Professional Temperature Control.
By Proffessor Potter.


Growers know that ambient temperatures play an important role in plant development.You don't have to have a Ph.D. in plant physiology to understand that temperature determines the rate of bio-chemical reactions,the relative amount of products created by enzymes within plant cells,and those products' transport and allocation in plant tissues.Temperature also influences the production,interaction and activity of plant hormones.Mayb a Ph.D. would help,but even a novice grower can use advanced temperature control to help grow a better crop.Here is the gist of it.

Plants are generally and obviously seen to be best adapted to temperature regimes in which daytime growing temperatures are,on average,higher than nightime growing temperatures.However,for reasons not fully understood-or at least not fully explained here-the difference in day/night temperature influences stem and internodal elongation.Higher relative night temperatures result in plants with shorter internodes (the distance between branches or nodes).By creating night temperature equal to or higher than day temperatures in the growing area,we can grow shorter,more compact plants without sacrificing flower number or size.This method of temperature control is called DIF.

DIF is not an acronym;it's simply short for "difference."DIF is the difference in average day temperature (ADT);in practice,the "average" is usually dropped and the equation is given as DT/NT.If your growing area's temperature is 76F during the day and 70F at night,then the DIF is +6.The term DIF was originally coined to refer to conditions in which the average day temperature is lower than the average night temperature,producing a negative DIF.For example,if DT= 76F and NT= 85F then the DIF= -9F.


Dr. Royal Heins,a distinguished proffessor of horticulture at Michigan State University,coined teh term DIF.He recognized the phenomenon of plant response to higher night than day temperatures;it was an accidental discovery that arose from and experiment being conducted by one of his students.DIF is not a natural phenomenon-in nature,night temperature seldom exceeds day temperature-and was unknown to horticulture until the 1980's.By manipulating it,we can confuse the natural hormone balance in the plant to influence it's growth.

A partial explanation for the DIF phenomenon is that the syntesis or action of a gibberelic acid,which contributes to cell-wall elongation,is inhibited.Similarly,auxin,anot her plant hormone that influences cell elongation,may also be inhibited.Given that plant hormones seldom work alone,it may be a combination of these or other factors.No one really knows for sure,but we are working on it.Whatever the reason,the effect of the DIF means that the plant will grow more compactly with warmer night temperatures than with cooler-than-day night temperatures.


DIF is useful in negating the effect of plant crowding,which,due to the plants response to the far-red light (heat) emitted by it's neighbors,stimulates stem elongation.The influence of radiant far-red light from non-biological sources also cuase stem elongation and "stretching" under lower light conditions.Under high light and otherwise optimal conditions,DIF is used for reducing plant height and promoting denser flower formations.


Some of the first research with the DIF was done with Easter lillies and poinsettias,bot important horticulture crops.In commercial horticulture,it is important to track height and time blooms in order to meet specific target dates for marketing.
The DIF,and variations of it,are now used by professional plant growers around the globe for crops as diverse as corn,sage,tomatoes,impatients and,occasionally,cannabis.


How much should the DIF be?It depends on the crop.Ester lillies show the greatest effect at a DIF of -15 degrees celsius,poinsettias at -12 degrees celsius,and fuchsia at -20 degrees celcius.For some crops,there are tadeoffs;the greatest effect isn't necessarily the most economic or physiologically desirable.Additonally,the DIF change from positive to zero has a more marked effect than from zero to negative.Commercially,the typical maximum DIF is usually no more than -6 degrees celsius and is typically -2 or-3 degrees celsius,since night heating and cooling raises costs.Further,there is a tradeoff between hight control and flowering time,leaf area and fruit development.Reducing the day temperature to accomadate DIF reduces the growth rate in heat-loving plants,and a high negative DIF has been demonstrated to reduce relative flower number and size in several species.


For cannabis,the best DIF for day/night temperatures is probably zero if you grow in a medium-light garden and maintain day temperatures of 80F - that is,day and night time temperatures should be the same.In a low-light garden,a negative DIF may actually have a detrimental effect,as seen in chrysanthemums.A possitive DIF has traditionally been recommended for indoor cannabis horticulture,and it may be desirable for a low-light garden.But if you have free reign to control temperature and you grow in a medium- or high - light garden,you might try a DIF of -2 degrees celsius or -3 degrees celsius.But given the cost and difficulty of heating and cooling,a high-light growing area-especially one pushing the plants with supplementary Co2 and higher day temperatures-might require and alternative.


There is an alternative to using the DIF as a function of DT and NT.This technique doesn't have an official acronym,but in commercial growing it's referred to as "cold-air dump" *CAD).This is when the temperature in the growroom is lowered after sunrise (lights on) to below the NT for one or two hours.The CAD relies on the plant's response to the change between night and day.Stem elongation has been found to be at it's highest rate at the end of the dark period and the beginning of the light period.Cooling during only the first two hours of the day dramatically stem elongation in poinsettias.This technique is usually the most economocal and is used more frequently in commercial flower production.


In a cannabis growing operation that I am familiar with,a more refined version of CAD is being used with excellent results.This "invisible greenhouse" hydroponics operation uses 85 percent of available sunlight,with a supplemental 400-watt high-pressure sodium light and Co2 fetilization up to 1200 ppm.With the high-light and Co2 fertilization,dat temperatures are run at 85F-90F and the growth rate is outstanding.Because of the high DT,raising the NT to create a negative DIF would be uneconomical and would probably stress the plants.In this operation,the day temperature is extended for several hours after dusk,then gradually diminished to a night temperature of 27 degrees celsius.One hour befor "dawn" (lights on),it is raised to 30 degrees celsius and then lowered to 25 degrees celsius to stimulate a CAD,before returning to the day temperature of 30 degrees celsius.The effect is most notable with sativa cultivars,but indica cultivars also do exceptionally well in this system.Internode length is shortened,and the flowering tops are dense and compact but very large.This is only one of the horticultural techniques used in the operation;however,the effect is noticeable and seperable from other influences in this high-yeild system.


Manipulating the day and night temperatures is a proven method in the world of horticulture,has helped reduce the use of chemical growth regulators,and is used to increase productivity and assist with timing crops to the day and hour.The cold-air dump similarly is coming into it's own as a cropping method.So DT/NT or CAD,what's the DIF?For cannabis,either can be used to improve plant performance,depending on what growing parameters are used.It's just a matter of how you do that funky stuff you do.
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
33
COntinued>... :wacky:
So is there a controller that adresses this functionality. I have found a few option but I still have not found a product that truely does what I want. Ultimately I want a controller that will run both my dehumidifier and humidifiers and also have the function to have a daytime/nighttime set point.

So far I have found these options

1.
the sentinel evc-2



pros.
it has both night/day setpoints.

cons.
only has one output for humdifer/ duhuey..
has more functions than I need. temp /co2

I figured I could plug the humidifers into the unit. This would leave me with the dehuey on a timer set to turn on a night. Not ideal.

2.
CAP HUM-1 Humidity Controller
http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=9435

pros
has inputs for both dhuey and humidifier.

cons.
no function for day/night setpoints.

The CAP HUM-1 Humidity Controller seemed like the better option for me until came across some articles about D.I.F. With this unit I would not have control of ideal v.p.d while controlling D.IF. Because there is no day/night set points.

So the question is? Is there a unit out there that can achieve this? Am I being to anal of achieving ideal v.p.d while implementing controlled D.IF.?

On a side note.....

1. What is the best way to add humidity to my room? (As of now I think I am going to go with some ultra sonic foggers from http://www.mainlandmart.com/ (Thinking about buying a box wholesale.. anyone interesting in spilting a box?)

B.T.W.

In the beginning of my thread I posted that I was struggling with wether I over ferted or if my lights were too low. I am now convinced that it was a result of vpd. This is the first time I have grow in a seal room hence why this is the first time I have encountered this problem.

Thanks for all the help...

:angelic::angelic::dummy::shy::peeking::pompus::nailbiting::borg::bawling::bawling::blackalien::blackeye::D:oops:
Love these.... guys...
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
Supporter
6,070
313
COntinued>... :wacky:
So is there a controller that adresses this functionality. I have found a few option but I still have not found a product that truely does what I want. Ultimately I want a controller that will run both my dehumidifier and humidifiers and also have the function to have a daytime/nighttime set point.

So far I have found these options

1.
the sentinel evc-2



pros.
it has both night/day setpoints.

cons.
only has one output for humdifer/ duhuey..
has more functions than I need. temp /co2

I figured I could plug the humidifers into the unit. This would leave me with the dehuey on a timer set to turn on a night. Not ideal.

2.
CAP HUM-1 Humidity Controller
http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=9435

pros
has inputs for both dhuey and humidifier.

cons.
no function for day/night setpoints.

The CAP HUM-1 Humidity Controller seemed like the better option for me until came across some articles about D.I.F. With this unit I would not have control of ideal v.p.d while controlling D.IF. Because there is no day/night set points.

So the question is? Is there a unit out there that can achieve this? Am I being to anal of achieving ideal v.p.d while implementing controlled D.IF.?

On a side note.....

1. What is the best way to add humidity to my room? (As of now I think I am going to go with some ultra sonic foggers from http://www.mainlandmart.com/ (Thinking about buying a box wholesale.. anyone interesting in spilting a box?)

B.T.W.

In the beginning of my thread I posted that I was struggling with wether I over ferted or if my lights were too low. I am now convinced that it was a result of vpd. This is the first time I have grow in a seal room hence why this is the first time I have encountered this problem.

Thanks for all the help...

:angelic::angelic::dummy::shy::peeking::pompus::nailbiting::borg::bawling::bawling::blackalien::blackeye::D:oops:
Love these.... guys...


It shows you have been doing a lot of reading, and paying attention as well. Great reading you posted on the DIF. More people should pay attention to this thread.. you are doing great work here.

-Cap
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
33
well. was supposed to party tonight... but ... goddman x g.f.'s that rain on parades... instead a cold beer and some hangin in the grow room with suffice.

I called cap, sentiel, greeners.com and stopped by the local grow shop looking for a controller to suit my needs.

Sentinel was the most insightful. but the end of of converstation ened with. " I think you should read over the user manuals to make sure it can do it" So i did and unless I am miss reading. There is no controller for these companies that will achieve what I am looking for. o_O im 99.9% sure.

As a result : If I want to control D.I.F with corresponding higher temps/vpd at night and lower day time temps vpd......... I am gonna have to only rely on only changing temps where humidity does not synchronize with it. ( at least with only using a bought controller) I have a few ideas but they are on the back burner.

Futhermore. I have gotten a few repsonse from the farm that v.p.d is more of a ballpark kinda of thing... Guess I am being a little anal... But why not. Seems like all the tech is there but none of the environmental controller companies have adressed the issue.

As a result I went with the c.a.p hum-1. IT is the only device that I have found that you can plug in a humidifier and dehumidifier. This way I can keep my V.p.d in check... so all in all "winnning"

At the end of the day.. I am much more dialed in then last run... Cutting down the current crop tommorow!!!:pompus: ... then the new crop gets it's home.... let the games begin!!!!!!!!!!

Also... Thanks CApulator.... OGbiowar. tea.... is the shizzzy...

fuzzy wuzzy bear roots at shooting through the surface of my soil... FEED ME!!!!
 
bangbang

bangbang

49
33
Need a little help fellow farmers. I just transplanted my plants last week from veg under t5 to 1k hps. It has been about a week and I am starting to see some yellowing. :(

My specs.

Daytime:

temp: 79-80
rh- 70-73
ppm- 900

night time

temp: 72-75
rh- 75-80 (I am using my dehumidifier for drying right now. could this be a vpd issue?)
ppm: 400 ish

medium

3/5 ocean forest.
2/5 perlite/coco

nutrients:
veg+bloom (dirty), ogbiowar bennies, sea green

The yellowing is staring from the top of the plant. It leads me to think that it is a calcium deficiency. I spoke to chris from Hydroponic Research " He thinks that this is not the case because I am using ocean forest."

Any insight. thanks

IMG 20130528 115646 741
IMG 20130528 115608 653
IMG 20130528 115521 899
 
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