walk-in cooler grow, how to disassemble?

[easternheart]

We have a nice area to start our project but the main unit is still attached and it's so old and rusty and I'd like to get it out of the way. I have no idea how to go about doing this and know very little about refrigerators. I know that coolant could be really dangerous and don't want to do anything I'll regret. Does anyone have any idea how to disassemble this? Here are pictures of what I'm working with:

http://img17.invalid.com/i/img1076y.jpg/
http://img25.invalid.com/i/img1077f.jpg/
http://img25.invalid.com/i/img1079yzo.jpg/

Could I also get some suggestions on how to clean/disinfect the area and any other preliminary actions I can take in setting the room up?

Thanks in advance :rasta:

 

[greenplanetguru]

There's your bloom room!

Hi,

I've had so many challenges dealing with hot grow rooms over the years that I have actually had this *fantasy* about growing in a walk in cooler and YOU want to take it apart? t's too bad that you can't turn that into a bloom space and set the refrigeration unit temps in the lower 70's and bloom silly in there!

Peace!:rasta:

 

[highroller]

You know I've disassembled, moved and reconstructed these units before, but I'll be damned if I can remember what we did. I was working for a commercial kitchen supply company. It was along time ago. I think we had a HVAC guy come in and pump the unit down to remove the freon and dispose of it responsibly. I also remember another time when the guy just cut the line and let it bleed into the atmosphere which really pissed me off. Please do the right thing for the environment. The rest of the unit should come apart into panels. Make sure you mark them for reassembly.
As far as disinfecting the cooler goes, a good soapy wash, and a mild bleach solution should clean it up nice. Physan 20 is a good disinfecting agent too.
Good luck with the project.

 

[heater]

Do you have a shot of the condenser section, close up of where the lines enter the condenser.

See if the refrigerant type is printed on a tag.

If the unit still operates and it has access valves it may be able to pump the gas back into the condenser, than you can cut the lines.
Have you checked to see if it has refrigerant in it? If it has a shrader valve (bicycle type air valve fitting) you can carefully depress quickly to see if it does, many old units are empty. (take all safety precautions when working around refrigerants...glasses, gloves etc.)

Call a local shop and have then dispose of it before you start anything might be an option...

 

[thefabman]

Look at this one carefully!! It is a homeade cooler. From the age and looks it could be an amonia system. I can not see the refrigerant type on the filter, but if it is do not do anything with it yourself!!

 

[easternheart]

here are some more detailed pictures. If anyone can give me any advice I'd appreciate it. I'd like to see if I can avoid the cost of having someone come out and do this, but if it is absolutely necessary I guess I'll have to scrap up the cash for it!

appreciate the feedback thus far though ;)

http://img199.invalid.com/i/img1084f.jpg/
http://img32.invalid.com/i/img1085tsj.jpg/
^^the only "labels" that were really there..
http://img32.invalid.com/i/img1086z.jpg/
http://img21.invalid.com/i/img1087jcf.jpg/
http://img32.invalid.com/i/img1088y.jpg/
http://img25.invalid.com/i/img1089g.jpg/

 

[heater]

You probably have a r-12 or 500 series refrigerant your dealing with not good for the atmosphere, so if your not equipped to reclaim it would be wise to have a pro do it.

If you don't know how to pump the refrigerant back to the condenser your pretty much out of luck on any diy.
keep your karma good and have it recycled...:rauch08:

 

[easternheart]

yeah, my tech buddy is on vacation for the next couple weeks. If he can't figure it out when he gets back I'll just have to call someone up to do it. I definitely am all for keeping karma points up ;p

 

[easternheart]

so a professional is coming over later today to do this for me. He said it would be $125 if he's able to pump the stuff easily back into the condenser (which I found outside around back). But if he has to bring a portable unit if the condenser doens't work (which is probably likely) it'll probably be around $250. think that's a fair price?

He did mention something about how the freezer would never be approved for food storage due to the wood, and it being a porous material prone to mold and bacteria. This did not sound very good for a project such as this... But as long as I disinfect and coat the walls I should be fine right?



edit: also,


do you think those shelves would come in handy for the room or should I just take them out to maximize space?

 

[irie]

Nice spot bro and glad to see you over here. Unfortunately I don't have any answers to your questions but it seems like you're on track. Hit me up!

 

[heater]

Your pro is doing you good on the price, lot higher in some areas but that is very reasonable.

I would guess you disinfect and paint the walls and you should be ok, just a guess maybe someone has experience in this area.
Good luck on the project sounds like a winner..,.:rasta:

ps good karma with your decision not to vent to the atmosphere.:smiley_joint:

 

[easternheart]

^any specific type of paint you'd suggest?

 

[Lost]

Anything titanium white for reflectivity. Look on the label. you want as much titanium as possible..

 

[baba G]

I'd throw on a layer of Killz as that would protect and kill things you don't wanna see again...

 

[easternheart]

As far as disinfecting the cooler goes, a good soapy wash, and a mild bleach solution should clean it up nice. Physan 20 is a good disinfecting agent too.
Good luck with the project.

About to get started here.. Should I give it a soapy wash first before using the physan or were you saying that the physan might be all I'd need.

There's definitely some rot going on with the wood in some areas. I can take pictures if it'd help, but any particular information on how to handle those? Should I just cover it with some greatstuff then paint over with the coat of paint inevitably?

 

[Budhog]

I'd throw on a layer of Killz as that would protect and kill things you don't wanna see again...

I agree. Just make sure to wait about a week for all of those awful fumes that Killz puts off to dissapate or it will kill your plants

 

[BOSSMAN88188]

I think the best choice would be to remove all the wood.
Clean up what's behind it. Then either drywall it.
Or use Panda. I would worry about the mold's behind that wood.
IMO that wood is Going to cause problems if left in there.
If you use kills Then wait atleast 2 to 3 weaks for the vapor's to clear out.

 

[easternheart]

Unfortunately, taking down the wood simply is not an option. I got permission to disassemble the fridge, but we cannot actually destroy the parts. We'd be limited to cleaning and putting up layers of paint/mylar.

We actually have a grow tent which is already coated in mylar. So do you think coating the entire place is still necessary since everything will be contained in the grow tent?

 

[BOSSMAN88188]

IMO. You can not be too safe.
The tent is awesome. I will go that route next time.
I would still line the walls with panda paper. I prefer panda paper it is thicker and plastic.
I you completely seal the wood with the panda and then grow in the tent.
You should be good.
I have done alot of drywall repairs after fllood's and mold is persistent stuff.
If you can get a hudson sprayer mix bleach and water. And shoot it everywhere.
Inside any hole you can find and completely everywhere. Then the panda.

 

[highroller]

If it were me I would avoid using any kind of films or wall coverings like panda. If there is any mold left behind that will provide an excellent breeding ground for them between the wood wall and the film. You wouldn't even see it happening (I've had this happen).
I'd give it a good wash with some sort of disinfecting cleaner like pinesol, then spray it good with a strong physan solution once or twice. After it is dry I'd give it a good coat of Kilz with some of that mold inhibitor you can mix in. Probably let it go at that, but a coat of extra white paint after that couldn't hurt. whew! that's a lot of work....but worth it I think.
Best of luck in the project and thanks for not depleting the ozone layer....:pimp: