Want To Bulk Up My Buds!

[Sinner D]

Good Day Farmers! I'm new to this site and cultivating MJ. I've been on my first grow now for three months (give r take a few days), and I have two cycles of plants going right now. These are going to be used for medicine for my wife, as I am her legal caregiver. I've had a few bumps in the road along the way, with having to move at one point, and taking care to stay within the legal confines of the law. All in all, I think I've done alright. So I'll get to the point now.
I'm growing using a T5 4' 8 bulb fixture for vegetation. It puts out 40,000 lumens and has been doing a great job. In my flowering tent, I'm using a 400 Watt grow light, with an air cooled reflective hood and a SHID bulb, roughly 55,000 lumens. I would have loved to go with a 600 Watt, but I got the 3' x 3' tent, with a 6" can fan, the 400 Watt reflective air cooled hood, with digital ballast, and a Hortilux Blue MH bulb, a 1" clear water pump, and adjustable light hangers all for $200.00 on Craigslist. It was a steal for a poor MF'r like me, and figured I could move to buy a 600 Watt after a couple of harvests. Which brings me to my issue. I'm now approaching week 6 in the flowering of my first three plants. They're between 3 and 4 foot tall, which has the light all the way up. All of my plants have been growing in Happy Frog potting soil, which has loads of good stuff in it, including guano, worm castings, some microbes, and dolemite for PH balance. The flowering three plants that I'm writing to ask advice on are all in 5 gallon buckets with catch pans, and they have a little cone shape cylinder that extends upward in the middle of the inside of the bucket. This part is perferated and helps the soil drain, so as not to hold excess water. These three girls are all bag seeds, as when I first got underway it was just before the holidays and I didn't have the resources to buy and seeds online, or get clones from anybody. So, they're a mystery as far as strain goes. But I can tell, from what I've read in good ol' George Cervante's "Marijuana Horticulture: The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower's Bible", that they seem to exibit the charateristics of a predominantly Sativa plant, as the leaves are thin, narrow in stature. As I mentioned before, I had a hard time when I first got started, because I had to move. Neighbor/Landlord issues! So, these particular plants veg'd for 2 months, thus they're pretty big, yet leggy.
Now, the first time I went to buy some nutrients, the fella at my local hydro store handed me a sample bag of Hesi Nutrients. This system was pretty easy to follow. It's a 6 part system. I think it's done fairly well at helping the plants and not overloaded the soil, as the PH is just below 6. (If I'm wrong on any of this, please, correct me, I will take no offense to opinion.) After the samples started to run out, I wasn't sure whether or not I wanted to keep on going with Hesi, or try something new. I figured I would wait until the plants had flowered for a while and if they weren't meeting my expectations, then I would move to try something new. Well, since this is my first grow, I really don't have much of an idea as to how full the buds should look or be at this point in the flowering period (35 days). But I have one plant that is doing great. It's got two really nice, large buds at the top, as I used the FIM technique on this plant, and they feel quite thick, sticky, and have nice trichome coverage. The other two plants, however, have a good amount of bud sites, but aren't getting the fullness I would expect to see at the end of week 5.Now, I've used the Hesi products properly and strictly to they're grow schedule and added a couple of extra's to the mix lately too. I'm trying to be careful not to overload the soil with nutrients, as it has so much that comes in it already. So, this is the extra stuff I've used: B'cuzz Blossom Builder and Fox Farms Microbe Brew. I'm about out of my Hesi Phosphorus Plus and this is the critical time that it is used in the Grow Schedule, so I will be picking up some more of this today. But there are lots of blooming fertilizers and I want to get a good one that will add some serious bulk to these other two plants in the next month. So here are a few pic's that I took to give y'all an idea of the size of the plants and they're buds. I couldn't get great focus on this camera as it doubles as a video camera and is just a cheap Wal Mart special.The bottom picture is of all three of the plants, and as you can see, they fill the tent up quite well. So, let me know what ya's think farmers, and throw me some questions and comments. It would be appreciated. Happy Growing!!;)

 

[cannabeans]

So far everything looks good from what I can see.... If the are sativa dominant like you think, they may take up to 11 weeks and sometimes longer. Its really hard to say because they happen to be unknown genetics.
Cleaning up the bottom branches, that dont recieve the light as strong, can help the buds that get strong light bulk up like you would like. Plus it is kinda early to see the "bulk" you are looking for. This usually take place during the last few weeks of the flowering cycle.There is so much information on this site that can help you be more successful. I think though that everything looks good so far. There doesnt appear to be any burn or deficiencies from the pics you posted. I would say keep it up.
On another note....verified genetics from breeders here on the farm, would help you further your skills, because chances are, you can ask the breeder personally in a post or private message what to expect or if something is wrong, ask for advice to help!
Keep up the good work!

 

[vaporedout]

very good looking, especially for your first. wish my first or 2nd looked that good :) being a new grower and using it for you wifes meds (same boat im in) the most important thing weve focused on is the end flush. we vaporize a lot so we flush for about 3 weeks. my wife is like a bloodhound with nutes. good luck and the weight will come!! maybe a bigger bloom light next round will help your buds.

 

[Sinner D]

Thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm trying not to overthink the whole process, but as I said before, I don't have a whole lot in the way of money and I'm really needing this harvest to come through for the sake of this feeling like a good judgement call on my part. Being that I could have found my wife a Caregiver in the area that already had an operation underway and knew more of what they were doing. However, I've never been one to shy away from a challenge and I also wanted to be the one to provide her the best, safest medicine she could get. Now, I think what I need to focus on, is what you both suggested, and that is patience and proper timing. I am still seeing gains in the flowers day to day, and also, I want to make sure that I flush them proper so they don't taste funky.
Also, being that it is winter here in the state of MI, I can't afford to keep my house like the Bahama's, so I am recording low temperatures in the low 60's overnight, and the soil is a bit chill to the touch. But the girls are so tall that I have to keep them on the floor, and all I have to keep as a barrier between the concrete floor and the bottom of the tent is folded up cardboard. Thick, but none-the-less, not the best insulation barrier. I'll have to consider some 1" Styrofoam if this is thought to be an issue. Other than that, the room has it's own heat duct, so that's a plus. I'll get back to this thread with a soil temp later on today, just for curiosity sake.

 

[Cort]

Styrofoam or turn a drip pan upside down for instant air barrier. You dont need to buy, get someones packing material from a tv or other electronic device and cut to fit.

Looks good for your first run. You are on the right track. You have a ways to go yet, but If I were you Id invest a few dollars on an inexpensive scope powerful enough to see the trics. Usually a 60-100power adjustable can be had at any grow shop or online.for 10-20 bucks.

Looking at the trics will tell you when they are ripe. They will go from clear (not ripe) to cloudy (getting there, a very heady effect) to amber color (the more amber the more couchlock effect)
Thats the basic version anyways. Lots more in detail threads here on the subject by smarter people than I.

Most shoot for a 50/50 cloudy/amber.

 

[woodsmaneh]

You need to get your temps up into the 70's, 60's puts them into kind of a stall till it warms up. To bulk up your buds get some Overdrive from Advanced Nutrients. It is expensive but it works.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Just thought I would also mention P/K boost from other big name companies work such as Canna, Dutch Master, Ionic and H & G work also. I am not a big fan of using one real high PK boosters that you add on specific week of flower, by using AN OverDrive, weeks 6,7, I give it to them for 2 to 3 weeks in small amounts and it works well on my ladies. I know there are a lot of AN haters out there so that's why I mention the others. I have heard all kinds of great things about Shooting Powder by H & G.I also use Big Bud for weeks 2,3 and 4. Love the stuff. If you use Overdrive and BB together you will see the difference.

Do not use any OD for last 10 days, change out your res if using hydro, and give a good mild flush, 25% basic flower nutrients if in dirt.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&ie=UTF-8#hl=en&tbo=d&sclient=psy-ab&q=house and garden shooting powder reviews&oq=house and garden shooting powder&gs_l=serp.1.2.0l4.1127528.1138870.0.1141570.32.17.0.10.10.3.1942.14150.6-7j2j3.12.0.les;..0.0...1c.1.2.serp.rSgg1ba3Dyk&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=1fa379694a90ab7e&ion=1&biw=1600&bih=771

 

[Sinner D]

I really appreciate the help woodsmaneh and cort. I'm gonna give the AN Overdrive and Big Bud a shot. I can definitely use both because I have another cycle just behind the plants I pictured above and they're just getting started in the flowering stage. My second cycle (not shown) are GDP and I can't get them under the sodium light until their 3rd week because my 1st cycle will be finished in the tent by then. I wish I wasn't so limited financially, but tax season is upon us and I also have a side job this weekend that will bring me a little extra loot to put into the garden.
I'm now looking into using some dry yeast and sugar water to up the Co2 in the room, tent. Obviously a tank with regulator is not in my price range, but I can't see where it will hurt to try the dry yeast method of boosting the Co2 in the room, tent. What's your experience with Co2 generation and placement in your gardens? Any luck, tips?

 

[OctoberDee]

Yo! Your setup looks great, I agree with doing the same as you've been doing. Those plants look early into flower but still hefty, you're probably talking 60-70 days at least with those plants. Maybe keep using the hesi since you're familiar, try a new scheme on your next round, or not. It's looks good bro, don't go too hard on the nutes and don't forget to flush em out two weeks prior. I got 90 grams off of five plants under a 400w but your plants look way better than mine did so I wouldn't trip.

 

[LexLuthor]

They seem kinda small for 5 weeks into flower, hopefully its because they are a long flowering strain and will bulk up in the next couple weeks, they might go 10-12 weeks.

Do research on training (topping, LST, ect.) your plants, keep them under 2' tall so more energy goes towards the tops within the sweet spot of the light. Good luck, there is no substitute for knowledge, so keep researching and learning.

 

[Sinner D]

One of the three flowering plants that I mentioned, pictured above, seems to be a lot closer to finishing than the other two. I guess that's what I get for having to start out with bag seeds! Probably 2-3 different strains, still, I have a feeling that all three are Sativa dominant in nature. I got a jewelers microscope this week. It shows 60 to 100X magnification and I've had an easy time using it to identify the tricomes to be clear, cloudy, or amber in color. The one plant that has the bigger buds on it, and seems to be doing better and maturing faster than the other two that started flowering the same time, has 50-50 cloudy-clear tric's. Seeing about 50 to 65% amber hairs on this plant too. I think she's ready (at 50 days today) to start flushing, but I'm tempted to give it another week or little less of nutrients before beginning to flush, thinking it will most likely be at least 70 days until full maturity. It's really a hard decision to make. But I have faith that the buds will still bulk up in the last 14 to 20 days.
On another note, the 3 GDP's that I just started flowering on a week ago are already developing a lot of bud sites and looking very promising. It's a shame that I have to use my T5 to flower them for the first 3-4 weeks, but it's what I have to do given my financial restraints. These GDP's are noticeably Indica. They have much broader leaves, a short stature, and very bushy and full of leaves. The GDP strain has also shown a little less resilience and strength as a strain, but nothing serious. I keep dealing with the appearance of rust spots on some of the fan leaves, not a lot. And some dead leaves within the internal area's of the plants, considering they're very bushy and full canopied, making it difficult for some of the inner leaves to get the light they need.
I'll be seeking out some Big Bud, Overdrive, or Shooting Powder today, if not to use on the Mystery plants in there last weeks of flowering, then surely to give the GDP's a good chance at a killer yield in the near future. I would really like to have a lot of Easter Grass to line my Basket with. Some Cultivation Trading Cards would be cool too....

 

[Barney Dunwell]

You filtering your water? Alkaline water, even though pH'd lower, can reduce yields by not allowing certain nutrients to be taken up by the plant. keep up the good work man

 

[LexLuthor]

You filtering your water? Alkaline water, even though pH'd lower, can reduce yields by not allowing certain nutrients to be taken up by the plant. keep up the good work man

I use tap pH around 7.4, .5 scale ppm below 100, I bring the EC around 1.0 and the pH will then be around 6.5 or so. Does that lower my yields?? Should I buy a faucet filter?? Or use distilled.

 

[Sinner D]

You filtering your water? Alkaline water, even though pH'd lower, can reduce yields by not allowing certain nutrients to be taken up by the plant. keep up the good work man

I don't know how good or bad this is, but what I've been doing ever since I started is allowing my tap water to sit for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate, then I add my nutrients and water my plants. I can't afford to buy distilled water all the time and I have no idea what else I should do to adjust my PH. However, today I will be doing my homework and figuring out the proper method to use tap water and adjust PH.
Any suggestions are warmly welcomed.

 

[Sinner D]

I decided to take most of the pH work out of my operation today by switching nutrients to General Hydroponics full Organic line. With my Happy Frog potting soil already containing dolomite lime, I don't think I will have to worry about pH as much now. Still, I'm sure it won't hurt to check it every now and again to see where I stand. I could use an aerator pump to keep the water moving once I've mixed me nutes though. Definitely considering that!

 

[bevin]

For your second grow that looks great. I would get a scope and watch our trics like the guy said. Sometimes with bg seed you will get a phenome that isnt all that and wont bulk up super like. I Had a jedi out of bag and it was a great plant bt just didnt get as big as the others around her. I use 1 gal milk jugs and keep my water in them till I need them, gets the crap out. You should still check your ph. I used to use general hydroponics but thet are refined and full of salts and crap. Peronally i use Age old Organics. I started with just grow and bloom, adding mollasis in flower. Now I run there whole line. I also use the organic happy tree frog, hat stuff is awesome.

 

[squiggly]

I agree that temp is an issue. Metabolic functions move more quickly at higher temps [within a range]--it's basic chem :)

 

[Pancho-N-Lefty]

Also maybe consider adding in CO2 when u can afford a simple setup. Up to 20% increase in yield s and density.
Just be sure to use it properly. There are plenty of us on here who use it effectively, so look around at different grows to educate before u just open a can of whoop-ass lol..
GL

PnL

 

[Sinner D]

Thanks growers! The comment that bevin made about the plants being phenome is something I think I'm experiencing right now. I have three plants that I started from bad seed and one is awesome, the other two are just not bulking up as much as the one. So, hash plants or shake weed is what they'll end up as. It's a bit disheartening considering how awesome one of the two looks. It's literally full of tric's, but no but no serious bulk at all and I'm on day 57 with them.
The other comment that Pancho made is something I found out by experimenting too. I used dry active yeast and made a CO2 bottle, it worked for about 9 to 10 days then looked separated so I ousted it. I figured I'd make a new one soon, just haven't got to it. But I did notice a difference for sure. The buds were bulking quite well when I introduced the CO2.
My biggest issue right now is ventilation. I'm trying to figure out the best way to ventilate my room with a 4" inline fan I'm using to cool the bulb in my tent and I have a spare 6" can fan. I don't know whether to swap with the 4" for the 6" and make it the cooler/outtake (considering it's winter I can't draw from the outdoors, it's too cold here in MI) and use the 4" as the intake, pulling air into the room from the house. It can't help that I have 8 plants in a 9'x9' room right now. They're probably battling a bit for all the same air/CO2...idk. Still brainstorming on this.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Title: SOIL TEMPERATURE AND ROOT GROWTN

Authors

McMichael, Bobbie

Burke, John

Submitted to: Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: April 30, 1998
Publication Date: N/A

Interpretive Summary: Plant roots grow under a wide range of environmental conditions. One of the most important soil factors that influence root growth is soil temperature. The ability of the root system to grow and function can be severely reduced at temperatures both above and below an optimum temperature. Research findings that are presented suggest that proper management techniques coupled with the use of modern biotechnology methods may be used to improve root growth and plant performance under a wide range of adverse soil temperature conditions.
Technical Abstract: Many environmental factors influence the growth and development of plant root systems. Among these factors are soil strength, soil water status and soil aeration. One of the most important factors is soil temperature. Plant roots grow in diverse thermal environments and relatively small changes in soil temperature can have a significant impact on the development of the root system depending on the stage of growth of the plant and the duration of the temperature change. Evidence is presented to show that both morphological changes and changes in root function such as water and nutrient uptake are influenced by changes in soil temperature. Genetic diversity in the growth of roots in response to temperature was also shown to occur and the potential for using this information for the enhancement of root growth and function under a broad range of temperatures was discussed. The utilization of molecular modifications of existing germplasm to improve root growth under adverse soil temperature conditions was presented for possible future research in this area.

http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?seq_no_115=84166