[YBGTA]

Hi idk if i have asked thos on here before but I have a long vegged photo I flipped like 4 to 5 weeks ago and i feel she's either locked out or toxicity, she has alot of weird scraggly undergrowth that is a pain to manage atm.I did just finish flushing her this Sunday to Tuesday swapping the res out every 12 hrs or so and using drips "flow" mineral dissolved at 2ml per gallon in 5 gal buckets using 3 gal of water, I'm using advanced nutrients ph perfect and followed their basic feed chat at 16ml/gal which I'm finding out seems like way to much for this one at least so this time im feeding around 1.2 ec for me is on 500 scale so around 600 ppm which is what i heard ppl say to go down to and see how they do, afyer doing so i did notice some light green growth start to come through, my question is she able to put on any dexebt weight rom here till finish? It's a OGK x Vanilla frosting (F), thank you!

P.s I'm a new grower still so any "burned" leaves do i just take off such as REALLY dark green leafs? I'm so stumped with this one.

 

[DillyTrying2Learn]

What level PPM level did you start your plants at/work up to before you realized there was a problem? What's your PH? Are you using tap water? Your plant looks pretty unhappy.

 

[The_Greenist]

Maybe too much nitrogen? Downward Curly and dark green.

Flush a bit and hit with P and K?

 

[DillyTrying2Learn]

Maybe too much nitrogen? Downward Curly and dark green.

Flush a bit and hit with P and K?

Yeah they look very plastic like for sure

 

[The_Greenist]

Yeah they look very plastic like for sure

I wonder if you could re Veg right now and kick them in when nitro goes down?

 

[Bdubs]

50% of your normal nutrient mix. But, Reduce whatever your heaviest nitrogen nutrient you use is. And then keep that lesser nitrogen onward, but bring all your other shit back up to what it was normal.

Do that mix for 2 days then swap!

 

[DillyTrying2Learn]

I wonder if you could re Veg right now and kick them in when nitro goes down?

Might stress them into herming out too.

 

[The_Greenist]

Might stress them into herming out too.

Try and lock out N somehow?

 

[DillyTrying2Learn]

Try and lock out N somehow?

If it was me, which it's not, I would cut and start over, I had a buddy who's plants looked kind of like this and it turned out very very harsh and brown.

 

[YBGTA]

What level PPM level did you start your plants at/work up to before you realized there was a problem? What's your PH? Are you using tap water? Your plant looks pretty unhappy.

Sorry for late reply, I've been keeping them between 5.5-5.8 on ph and the ppms i haven't been logging recently cause I knew they was too high i was doing advanc3d nutrients basic feed chart at 16ml/gal. Im using regular tap as thats all i have st thr moment
I have been cutting back nutrients for at least two weeks now by this point since I noticed, I wanna say around 2.0 ec (500 scale) or higher, I followed AN basic feed chart which I guess was a mistake lol, I believe I gave her like half the strength last feeding so instead of 48ml per bottle at 16ml a gal for each bottle 144ml÷2=72ml total of feed

 

[DillyTrying2Learn]

Sorry for late reply, I've been keeping them between 5.5-5.8 on ph and the ppms i haven't been logging recently cause I knew they was too high i was doing advanc3d nutrients basic feed chart at 16ml/gal. Im using regular tap as thats all i have st thr moment
I have been cutting back nutrients for at least two weeks now by this point since I noticed, I wanna say around 2.0 ec (500 scale) or higher, I followed AN basic feed chart which I guess was a mistake lol, I believe I gave her like half the strength last feeding so instead of 48ml per bottle at 16ml a gal for each bottle 144ml÷2=72ml total of feed

You need to raise your PH, I'd be at a 6.0 to 6.2 for flower. You also need a TDS meter, it sounds like you're guessing what your levels are. You need to monitor your water level, PH and PPM/EC pretty much daily to know at all what is going on with your set up. Definitely do not just go off what the manufacturer says for ML per gallon.

 

[YBGTA]

You need to raise your PH, I'd be at a 6.0 to 6.2 for flower. You also need a TDS meter, it sounds like you're guessing what your levels are. You need to monitor your water level, PH and PPM/EC pretty much daily to know at all what is going on with your set up. Definitely do not just go off what the manufacturer says for ML per gallon.

Right, I use the schedule as a guide then use my plants as the actual reference, I also thought that 6.0-6.1-2 allowes for potassium uptake. I also have a blue lab truncheon and WAS logging veg ec outputs but I got lazy as far as logging but I do check from time to time where she sits, It's been around 1.2 ec last time I check which was last Monday, I skipped nitrogen completely this week and just did the other two out of the 3 so just pk really. I'll keep the ph around 6.0 to 6.2 and see if that helps, appreciate the reply.

 

[Smokey0418]

Is there anything involved slowing flower like a russet or broad mites?

 

[The_Greenist]

Right, I use the schedule as a guide then use my plants as the actual reference, I also thought that 6.0-6.1-2 allowes for potassium uptake. I also have a blue lab truncheon and WAS logging veg ec outputs but I got lazy as far as logging but I do check from time to time where she sits, It's been around 1.2 ec last time I check which was last Monday, I skipped nitrogen completely this week and just did the other two out of the 3 so just pk really. I'll keep the ph around 6.0 to 6.2 and see if that helps, appreciate the reply.

I have never run DWC but have all the net pots, air stones and aerorator pump to run several bato buckets.

Keeping an eye on ec and ph seems like a lot of work, but I'm getting to the point where I want to spend more time in the grow room then soil demands.

 

[blueicegrows]

Give it a good flush, and start back with your flower feed @50% of recommended ml per gallon. Always feed light you can add more but you can’t always take away haha. If you are DWC I’d say fill it with plain tap water, and let your plant eat the nutrients up in the actual roots and leaves, go back to your feeding schedule when things look better. I’ve never grown deep water culture so I could be wrong.

That’s a heavy nitrogen toxicity! You need to somehow flush out all the N and lower your feeding.

Hope this helps in someway! Happy growing!

 

[Bdubs]

Give it a good flush, and start back with your flower feed @50% of recommended ml per gallon. Always feed light you can add more but you can’t always take away haha. If you are DWC I’d say fill it with plain tap water, and let your plant eat the nutrients up in the actual roots and leaves, go back to your feeding schedule when things look better. I’ve never grown deep water culture so I could be wrong.

That’s a heavy nitrogen toxicity! You need to somehow flush out all the N and lower your feeding.

Hope this helps in someway! Happy growing!

You can always force feed hydro high ppm if you do scheduled, every 4 weeks, 2day 50% “flush” and then go back to normal high ppm again. If done every 4 weeks it should keep the plant taking the nutrients. The flushing to keep salts from accumulating. Scheduled prevention vs waiting for creep to signal one is needed. Otherwise keep that ppm low for hydro. Half what soil could manage. 4-700ppm is about proper for max ppm for stress free growth. Higher than 700 and one may consider the 4 week flush interval to power the plant through intense growth without stunting on lockout.

 

[Bdubs]

Also, when you get above 700ppm in hydro, your roots are taking a beating on nutrient salts. Dead roots, discolored and unhealthy non succulent root color is dying roots. If you are running higher ppm in hydro, watch your roots. If they discolor and it isn’t water temps or Ph issue, the ppm may be burning roots…dehydrating the roots from the salt buildup and so they dry out and die turning brown and causing root rot. Dead roots in hydro = bad bacteria and root rot. Ph drops follow and will be noticed with roots darker color and or dying off. Beat to keep nutrients light and if you see root discoloration, check water temps, ph and ppm. Any PPM creep is the plant signaling she is rejecting a little something and is accumulating salts in roots. Just as leaf droop is general plant health, hydro gets roots and leafs to examine, don’t forget the roots, they talk to you in their color and health. Just cuz we want 1200ppm doesn’t mean they can take it. But we can force it successfully if done correctly and of course more work and effort to achieve…healthily.
Hydro prizes on growth rates, pushing too hard is counter productive to the only benefit hydro brings to your plants.

Hydro lacks mycorrhizae (plant health and better nutrient absorption, for soil) and because of that, hydro loses a main crutch plants in soil benefit from, beneficial fungus. Mycorrhiza is soils one up on hydro among other things…that assists in plant health.

Keep hydro nutrients on the lighter side, only what she wants, those leaf tips tell you to step it back. Just the tip, and I mean just the tip, not burnt tips, just a pinch of tip stress, coming to a needle point like the leaf tip is on a squeeze internally. If any leaf tips go beyond just the very tip, you need to back it down a hair until those tips stop burning or go back to normal. Burning isn’t forcing her to eat anything, it’s a signal she is rejecting and roots are taking damage from excessive nutrients. Leaf tips give you time to correct the nutrients. Get leaf tip burn and then reduce slightly when you are pushing in veg, seeking the proper max PPM she can handle. Then you can use that as a staple for max ppm in bloom phases. Remember you are going to drop nitrogen in flower which will substantially reduce ppm from nitrogen and the ppm will be at the same as before in growth due to increasing bloom nutrients, if done correctly you shouldn’t have a ppm dip upon flower flip. It should stay nearly flatlined between veg mix and bloom mix final PPMs. This is why I mention to feel the ppm max in veg before the flip. It isn’t what we want to do to the plant, it’s what does that plant need from me.
The more HST and training you plan to do to the plant, may help in deciding how strong of nutrient ppm you run or how aggressive your feed schedule is. More topping and mainlining or heavy defoliation and lollipoping, the more sessions you plan to perform HST should indicate how heavy your ppm targets are. And if you do a natural grow or only LST, PPMs need to be on the light side for the most growth rate and best results.

 

[amneziaHaze]

Saying mycos cant live in hydro ia like saying maycos die when you water the soil... as long as there is air in water they will live.as well as teichodermas but never mix them at the same time first mycos then a week or 2 after trichodermas.

 

[Bdubs]

Saying mycos cant live in hydro ia like saying maycos die when you water the soil... as long as there is air in water they will live.as well as teichodermas but never mix them at the same time first mycos then a week or 2 after trichodermas.

Legit. i do retract my statement of you cannot have it in hydro. It is possible to do some things for sure but that is pretty advanced. I hate recommending advanced processes.

I say you can’t because it’s just not worth your time. Hydro is so fast growing. 4 week veg, why any longer? I’ve vegged 17 weeks or some crap in hydro. It would have benefited me to do this process to incorporate Mycorrhizae into my blocks. In a short term grow? Nobody needs to throw time into that unless they are bored. But they most likely won’t be on here looking for answers if they know how to incorporate mycorrhizae properly. One of those things you skip basics, most here are not advanced, not even myself. But yeah you can, you are correct.

“Crucial points to this process are: First, the relationship starts during a time the roots and the mycorrhizae are both in a structured environment (before being transferred to the hydroponic production process). And second, the plant and the mycorrhizae are given the time necessary for the initial foray of connections to be established before the plant is moved into the water-based nutrient solution. It is not impossible to get colonization in a full water system, but it takes much longer, and it is harder for the propagules to germinate and establish the symbiosis if the water is in constant flow/movement. Mycorrhizal Applications does not have a specific hydroponic recommendation rate, but for a full-water hydroponic application (not during propagation in a structured environment), we suggest applying at least double the soil drench application rate.“

 

[amneziaHaze]

WHy advanced? Just put a tea spoon of it in water roots drink the water they go inside.many reaserch online showing it.same with trichoderma they stick to the outside of the root make a slime sheild.
Well they dont work just in veg and they make the plant suck more powerfully giving you bigger yields. Allso some bacteria works good in thw mix.there is some bacteria that will break down insoilible calcium from your water.... many benefits from going non sterile she can handle even higher temps with it as well