Bullmark69
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Were the sides of the cloth pot damp when you finished watering? If not, you didn't water thoroughly. Never decide something like, "I'll give it a half gallon." A half gallon might be what it needs, but you water until you've watered thoroughly and don't worry about the exact amount you're adding.The soil is pretty saturated right now....should I water more right now??
Hey Ron, thanks for taking the time to help..I appreciate it and need all the help I can get.I'd agree with short on water.
When your plant dries out on you as described. You need to give it 1/2 gallon - 2 cups at a time. Come back in 15 min and give it 2 cups. And again and again until you have given it 1/2 gallon so the soil can absorb and hold onto the water. When you give the pot a big drink the water runs threw and out the bottom. We figure we did a great job but most of the water went out the bottom into the tray. If you dig down in the pot you will find it's wet on top and is quite dry deep inside. Give it 2 cups 4 times over an hour. Should fix you right up. I always water this way. A little at a time 4 times, gives me something to do.
Ron
Thanks for the advice...I can tell it’s likely spot on. Couple things: is fish sh!t considered microbes?Love these dudes above - good stuff.
When you let your soil get super dry, a couple things happen:
All the left over nutrients in your soil (from bottle or salts) will crystallize. These crystallized nutes will release a burst of highly concentrated fertilizers to some unhappy roots when they come into contact with water. Fox Farm is a notoriously salty nute.
Your soil will become hydrophobic. Better built soils will be less hydrophobic. But can be an issue for inexperienced grower as your as natural reaction will be to water too much too fast.
The plants roots will be almost as dry as the soil. That makes everyone sad, including the microbes/fungi that depend on that moist membrane to survive. This creates an anerobic environment with little hope for full recovery without intervention.
So when a plant dries up like that, it is best to:
Water slowly with low ppm water (100ish) like said above, a little bit at a time over an hour. It is better to use room temp water and don’t be shy about getting >10% runoff.
Blast that shit with microbes. ReCharge or Mykos or Great White. ReCharge is expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Let her do her thing for a couple days, then start your feeding regiment again with a 50% dilution of your normal solution for the first watering.
Keep the humidity in a higher range while she’s recovering - it will help a lot!!
Yes Ron, I gave a half hearted attempt at LST and it clearly didn’t happen. The plants were so short and rigid I was afraid to really bend them enough. They were super healthy when I moved them from the solo cups into the 3gal pots. However, I think the move may have stunted them just a little and they were a lot tougher to bend than a taller plant.Hello again Mark. Your plant looks happy again.
Yes there are some pretty knowledgeable people in this forum. Compared to many, I'm also a newbie as I only have a few grows under my belt.
Your plant actually looks pretty good. But when growing under light its best to keep the canopy as even as you can. It helps. Outdoors let it grow like you have this one.
But for indoors.
Check out youtube. Mainlining, low stress training and how to scrog. You will love this stuff.
Looks like your back on track. All the best. Ron
He said it was an auto, so transplanting isn't recommended and training and Defoiliating should really be kept to a minimum, if done at all. I'm in the camp of taking off solar panels doesn't help growth in veg/early flower, except old and sickly fan leaves.... and definitely never when the plant is already stressed... but to each thier own... I know some people say some autos can handle lst and such.... this is just my two cents from what I've learned on here... I've never personally grown an auto.I learned about the Lux light meter app for the iphone here in this forum.
It's free at the download store. And it works great.
After downloading and getting it working, I did a little investigating and found these general guidelines.
Adjust your light accordingly.
Seedlings 200 - 400 Par = 18,000 Lux at the top of the plant
Vegging 400 - 600 Par = 26,000 Lux at the top of the plant
Flowering 600 - 900 Par = 40,000 Lux at the top of the plant
I understand your hesitation to bend your plants. I have broken off or split a few that I wish I had not. But I love Mainlining. It just works for me.
I'm actually working on something special these days. I usually only flower out doors but may try a micro scrog indoors over the winter just for the fun of it.
I have a couple of 150w 2500k CFLs. Will sleep on it a few more times while I shop for a carbon filter. I don't want to stink up the house. But I'd love to have a go at it.
I veg with 2 - 300w 5000k cone sharped LEDs in a 2' x 2' x 3' tall space. About 8" above my plants.
View attachment 1192116
A lot different than most Grow LEDs. So I can't help you on light placement but there are guys that will
be able to guide you in the forum.
Any way I'm glad your plant has recovered Mark. I'm 50 hours into a 60 hr work week so I need to get myself into bed, 0600 comes early.
Looking forward to Sunday so I can kick back a bit. Ron
Yes I’ve def learned that autos don’t have much margin of error in the early stages. By “taking off solar panels” I assume you mean defoliating??He said it was an auto, so transplanting isn't recommended and training and Defoiliating should really be kept to a minimum, if done at all. I'm in the camp of taking off solar panels doesn't help growth in veg/early flower, except old and sickly fan leaves.... and definitely never when the plant is already stressed... but to each thier own... I know some people say some autos can handle lst and such.... this is just my two cents from what I've learned on here... I've never personally grown an auto.
What is “par”? I have the app now and will check the lumens, but I’m not sure what “flowering 600-900 par” means......thanks for the info about the app. Very handy.I learned about the Lux light meter app for the iphone here in this forum.
It's free at the download store. And it works great.
After downloading and getting it working, I did a little investigating and found these general guidelines.
Adjust your light accordingly.
Seedlings 200 - 400 Par = 18,000 Lux at the top of the plant
Vegging 400 - 600 Par = 26,000 Lux at the top of the plant
Flowering 600 - 900 Par = 40,000 Lux at the top of the plant
I understand your hesitation to bend your plants. I have broken off or split a few that I wish I had not. But I love Mainlining. It just works for me.
I'm actually working on something special these days. I usually only flower out doors but may try a micro scrog indoors over the winter just for the fun of it.
I have a couple of 150w 2500k CFLs. Will sleep on it a few more times while I shop for a carbon filter. I don't want to stink up the house. But I'd love to have a go at it.
I veg with 2 - 300w 5000k cone sharped LEDs in a 2' x 2' x 3' tall space. About 8" above my plants.
View attachment 1192116
A lot different than most Grow LEDs. So I can't help you on light placement but there are guys that will
be able to guide you in the forum.
Any way I'm glad your plant has recovered Mark. I'm 50 hours into a 60 hr work week so I need to get myself into bed, 0600 comes early.
Looking forward to Sunday so I can kick back a bit. Ron
Yes. That's how they process the light into energy to use nutrients and grow. There's a very fine line between helping airflow and damaging the plant's ability to carry out photosynthesis... even finer line with autos I imagine. I'm not against it all together, I remove many lower branches entirely for airflow purposes and I do remove some large fans in late flower... but I've seen posts on here where people completely remove every fan leaf and even some smaller leaves and then wonder why thier buds are sad.Yes I’ve def learned that autos don’t have much margin of error in the early stages. By “taking off solar panels” I assume you mean defoliating??
So I kinda figured out what par is, and I got the Lux App. But I’m confused...from what I have read the Lux is measured and should be somewhere around 6000-8000.....or at least in the thousands. When I measured at the tops of my plants, which are roughly 20” away, the app says anywhere from 400 to 600. Should I be multiplying this number by 10x ?? My light is a HlG 320 and is very close to full intensity, so I can’t imagine the plants requiring so much more.What is “par”? I have the app now and will check the lumens, but I’m not sure what “flowering 600-900 par” means......thanks for the info about the app. Very handy.
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