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What do these pics show? Nutrient or Light issue?

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What do these pics show? Nutrient or Light issue?

HunterBrandon 27 Replies 3,755 Views
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I havent personally played with it much but isn't that something that Hydro Buddy would do"
 
It's a little complicated but just due to the upfront learning curve. I recently switched to mixing my own nutes, knowing it would take a while to dial it in. My mix is fairly basic and common from all the searches so far. For N I'm using Calcium Nitrate which is 15-0-0 and has calcium. For P I'm using Potassium Phosphate which is 0-52-34. For K I'm using Potassium Sulphate which is 0-0-52 (and contains 18 Sulfur). For Magnesium I use Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salt). I recently read about the advantages of Potassium Nitrate for K which is 13-0-45 so have added some to the recipe and taken out some of the potassium sulphate to make up for it. I may eliminate the potassium sulfate and just use potassium nitrate as an experiment. I'm changing my nutes weekly so they can survive a week of my experimentation. I don't have my trace elements in yet so hoping the foliar of Azomite will help. I've added a little tap water for some minerals as well.

Figuring out the weight of each and then calculating the amount in grams of each is the hard part so far. For example. If my target goal is an N-P-K of 3-1-2, which is ideal for veg, it's not 3 parts of N and 1 part of P and 2 parts of K. My N only has a weight of 15 and my P has a weight of 52. That's where it starts to get complicated. Then it further complicates when they have two things going on like the P also has a K weight of 34. So, figuring a 3-1-2 ratio is challenging as there are no nutrient calculators whereby you can enter your own numbers.
Not to many make their own hydro nutrients. I'd say your off to one hell of a start though. Also keep in mind your plants could just need a new batch. It looks to me like it's just running out of N too soon. Get you a npk testing kit, then tell me which one you got so I can buy one too.. And yea.. We need to check the levels when we see something like that. Your pushing out growth fairly quickly and in my opinion it will suck all the shit it needs up first... Perhaps I'm wrong. But when I have deffecienes and correct them with new feed, it takes a bit for it to level out visually. I'd cut them bad ones off, make a fresh batch and see how long it takes to get bad growth. I'd say not enough N but not confidently.
 
Thank you for the replies. I found Hydro Buddy and when I input my list of ingredients and hit calculate it came back and said, "there is no source of Iron in any of your ingredients". When doing the insane internet search, I bet we've all done or will do whereby you look for leaf pics that match yours, all the pics of this type of yellowing I could find, were attributed to either cold night temps or iron deficiency. I've raised the night temps two nights in a row with no difference. I just checked my town water report and there is no iron even listed. Alot of other disturbing things I found in there, like mercury, Floride, arsenic, cyanide, and the highest being Glyphosate which has a very high legal limit so the giant size number on the report was the legal limit. No wonder people get so sick as that shit attacks your gut bugs which them being out of whack is the cause of just about every ailment. Anyway, there's not a lick of iron in my tap water and I thought there might have been. There's not one beneficial element in there not even calcium that I could see. Just junk at its legal limit.

So, what I think we're looking at here are plants with absolutely ZERO iron. Maybe not really zero but zero in comparison to the level they need which was another recent eye opener. From what I can tell it's considered a micro-nutrient but the quantity it likes is much bigger than I had envisioned. In a 3-1-2 scenario the iron would need to be around .5 which is much more than the .1 range or less I was thinking like many of the other trace elements. These plants actually need a decent supply of iron. So, chelated iron is on the way. I will post pics if that makes a dramatic difference then maybe my pics can be the reference pics for iron deficiency.

There's also potential it could be another micro-nutrient deficiency as I evidently don't have any. I'll try just chelated iron first before the trace element mix that has the full smorgasbord supposedly.
 
Led creates a slightly different demand on nutrient ratios and intensity plays a huge role in overall demand as does vpd and leaf temp by directly imlacting transpiration rates and thus nutrient uptake.

Check leaf temps, pH, humidity first.

Lower the light intensity as a temp fix until you dial it in a bit more. The faster the growth the more spot on you need to be. While it may not directly be caused by TOO much light it's to much light for the conditions provided.

Guessing I'd say it's very liky a transpiration or nutrient concentration issue and possibly pH if it's iron but looks more like sulfur but no so much the lack up rather than the uptake overall.
 
Thank you for the info Aqua Man. More stuff I don't know about yet. I had to go look up VPD, never heard of that before, very interesting. Not that I fully understand any of it yet, but it looks like it's relating relative humidity to canopy temps. I found this chart in another post. My relative humidity today in AZ is actually high for us at 41%. Sometimes it's in the teens. If reading correctly this chart telling me my canopy temps need to be 59-63F? That certainly doesn't sound right. And if I extrapolate to get to a day when it's 17% humidity, I'll need to grow them in a walk-in refrigerator.
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Now they look like this. The bright green/yellow new growth is an obvious sign of.....?

The weird thing is how happy they look. By the way these are on day 18 of flower cycle.

Nitrogen def? Then the lower leaves would show yellowing not the newest growth. There's plenty of N in my ratio. Too much N? I'm running at about 2-1-2 right now.

Potassium def? I'm using both Potassium Sulphate and just started adding Potassium Nitrate which is more soluble. All searches seemed to say it's ok to use both but who knows.

Magnesium def? I use Epsom salt at about a 1 ratio. Could the Epsom salt be reacting with another ingredient like Calcium Nitrate?

Iron def? My micro nutes won't be in for a few more days so I'm using Azomite in foliar spray. Just started with that yesterday.

Night air temps too low? I read this can be the cause of yellowing new growth and my temps were dropping down to 67 at night and I run the tents in the low 80s during the day with plenty of air circulation, so last night I brought in a heater and limited the drop to 72. Just been one day so nothing yet. The Sativa on the right is showing the yellowing more which makes me think this is the cause as they are supposedly more sensitive to low night temps.

These are all homemade strains from my own crosses.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is I gave them their first treatment of Axiom about 5 days ago. I've not heard of this being a reaction to Axiom.

All thoughts and opinions are welcome and appreciated.

View attachment 1207924
Light stress on top. Raise the lights or dim them some.
 
It's at all levels of the plants wherever there's new growth so I don't believe it's light stress. Already tried cutting the light back significantly and it did not do anything. Plus, they do fill in green later, just not when they're new. I still think it's iron since there is no iron and iron is mandatory. How could I not have some leaf issue from that? Just added some chelated iron which I have no idea if it's the right stuff, it's what I could get locally in a pinch, but it should help. Found it at Lowes if anyone has experience with it. I pre-mixed a small amount in a pitcher and it turns deep purple.
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OK here's the update on KeRex Chelated Iron. The yellowing is GONE! I added it both to the nutrient solution and used it as a foliar spray. Today (two days later) they are as normal as normal can be with the exception of that sativa on the right in the original pic. Some of those leaves are not filling in and likely won't but the new growth is green. That particular plant appeared to be the most sensitive to the lack of iron. The two other plants are completely green, no signs that anything ever happened.

Interesting observation, my nutrient mix was always clear. Now with the iron added, it looks just like some of the pre-mixed branded nutrients.
 
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