UncleRomulus
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I can try,.. I use a roll of foodsaver vacuum seal bags with a vacuum sealer. I cut them to size so they will hold half a pound and fill them about 2/3 full and use the heat bar to seal them closed without removing the air. Gives me a little pillow of pot.Can you expand on that at all?
What's happening in the jar depends on how you grow from my observations.
Hydro growers are waiting for unprocessed nutes to be broken down while rehydrating the exterior of the dead plant to give it a simulated texture of a more resinous, danker bud, while also attempting to preserve perpetually offgassing terpenes created before harvest.
Soil growers are letting the living plant continue to produce new isoprenoids and store them in its fatty tissue, while periodically providing fresh air to endophytes responsible for converting starches into sugars, sugars into alcohols, acids into thiols, etc as the plant slowly dries out and never realizes nor experiences a definable moment of death.
Thats just the way I see things. Organic bud glows like a rooted plant on shrooms. Hydro is as radiant as the plastic ficus in the corner.. 2 different products, 2 different processes. I'm not saying one is a waste of time or anything, but people gotta realize the question has 2 different answers depending on if you're talking about natural or synthetically grown pot.
This is a lot of mis-information. The jar is simply a controlled micro-climate. The bacteria inside the flowers continues to eat chlorophyll and starch until the moisture is all gone.
Doesnt matter at all how the plant was fertilized.
This is a lot of mis-information. The jar is simply a controlled micro-climate. The bacteria inside the flowers continues to eat chlorophyll and starch until the moisture is all gone.
Doesnt matter at all how the plant was fertilized.
Any chance you have a source on that? I have never heard anything about bacterial activity in curing. It would be an interesting piece of info to read up on.
I'm going way back in time here, but from my memory, if you were getting the ammonia burps, te buds weren't dry enough and the ammonia is from the breakdown of the plant matter via mold or mildew. The plants will degrade the chlorophyll on their own when allowed to dry slowly, while the curing seems to also get rid of the chlorophyll and other things, but I think the fish smell was an indication that things were too wet.Not handy, sorry. Pretty sure it is in both the jorje and rosenthal grow books. Likely also read it on grow weed easy dot com and maybe clarks marijuana botany.
I thought it was pretty common knowledge. But i learned this stuff years ago. So if i am wrong please correct my info. As i remember the amonia (ish) smell when you burp the jar is the gasses from the process escaping.
I'm going way back in time here, but from my memory, if you were getting the ammonia burps, te buds weren't dry enough and the ammonia is from the breakdown of the plant matter via mold or mildew. The plants will degrade the chlorophyll on their own when allowed to dry slowly, while the curing seems to also get rid of the chlorophyll and other things, but I think the fish smell was an indication that things were too wet.
I could be way off base here, so please don't crucify me. From experience, when I jarred up buds before they were quite dry enough (the buds were dry, but the stems still had moisture), and I remember the unpleasant smell that came from the opened jars. Once they dried some more, the smell dissipated somewhat but was still detectable. Since I started to use more patience and make sure they are dry enough to snap the stem, but not bone dry. Putting the into the jars hasn't produced any of the odor that I got before. If you get your buds turning brown, it is from the same reason that you get the fishy smell sometimes. The fishy smell is from more of a fermentation process than a gradual absorption of the chlorophyll by the drying (but still active) buds.
This is all from experience and from research over the years. I could be wrong on several points, but the only time I really needed to burp a jar was to make sure it wasn't getting moldy (fishy smelling) or getting too dry. The jar is more for storing at a fixed humidity level, which helps to get and keep the taste and smell everyone craves. Please chime in if I have made any obvious errors!
I really appreciate every last reply. Thanks,folks.
I not only learned a whole pile in this thread, I was also able to set my mind at ease.
Being inexperienced during my first grow; I just tried to maintain the basics and stay in the middle of the road. My crop came off just dandy and I really don't want to spoil it now.
I hung branches intact for a week. I had a good handle on the rh and temp. I left it drift up and down between 45 and 54 % and never topped 18C.
The main branch and large stem were still bendy , and. i paniced when I discovered that the pointy calyx tips were starting to crust off.
I left them on the branch and stuffed each plant into its own 4L tub. I left the lids ajar and bumped up the room closer to 60% for 3 days. ( kinda ripped the idea from clockworks method) I added a fϚkload of brovedas , and have been turning the buds everyday since then.
One bin smells like walnut banna bread and the other smells like burnt electrical tape,,,maybe a waterpump failure? Hard to describe the aroma really.
It is the smell you get when that pos 2 stroke justisnt going to get you home.
So - I guess that is good ?
When they say the stems should snap from hang drying then go to jars they dont mean the main stem but the bud stem.
I remember reading that the point of no return was around 50% -- and that's been my experience. Not that you ever want to drop that low, just that above 50% you can still succeed in getting conditions stabilized higher (e.g., with a slice of lemon peal). When I'm just a few degrees below 62 I exhale my breath a few times into the jar and then close it back up. That seems to give the humidity a nice little nudge -- and I'm thinking the flowers shouldn't mind the extra carbon dioxide.
My big question has always been whether I still need to burp daily during the first few weeks if the humidity is stable around 62. I rely heavily on mini-hygrometers, and often find that, "magically," the flowers tend to want to naturally settle around 62% (as long as the drying was done right) pretty early on during curing. In such cases, do I still need to release the "farts" (as UncleRomulus describes), or is stable humidity all I need to care about?
So far, I've been burping at least daily for a few weeks regardless of stable humidity, and then gradually I start to skip days, until, after a couple months, I start burping every week or two. I don't seal "permanently" until about six months into the cure.
Early on, if jars get above 68 or so I'll put the flowers back into the drying rack for a few hours. Below that, I can leave them open in the jar for an hour or so to bring humidity down. I'd be lost without my hygrometers, but I've never had a mold problem.
I’m going to have to agree with you. Been so long but I remember reading about it somewhere with the enzymes break down the chlorophyll converting to sugars.Not to call into question about the bacteria being responsible for the cure, I feel that ths might not be entirely true. Anaerobic bacteria are the ones that will cause the buds to degrade, turn brown and off-gases ammonia. Mold and mildew, which are types of fungus, also thrive in this overly humid environment, so you often see the mold and ammonia gas together.
My pet theory and probably verified somewhere, is that the actual cure, which is the digestion/degradation of chlorophyll and possible replacing of sugars, is caused by plant enzymes that continue with their tasks until the chlorophyll is mostly gone (lack of food) or until humidity levels drop enough to inactivate them. If it was only bacteria that was responsible, it would be easy to re-seed the bacteria in a inactive jar with fresh, bacteria covered fresh material. Tobacco is cured using a type of fermentation, which I am guess is a little different than buds...but both rely on sustained humidity at certain levels and accomplish the same ends, which is the destruction of chlorophyll. I'm unsure about sugars, since they also give buds a certain taste.
All in all, I find it a very easy task to screw up. I save the jars for the final storage, although the flavors improve while in the jar. Once they are jarred, I maybe check them once or twice to make sure no mold is present, but after that, I don't open them. Just my 2 cents.
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