I think your plants might be choked out by nutrients .....
And maybe by the used soil , could be high in salt build up...
Maybe start up some fresh seeds , the plants look a little rough,
Sometimrs the genetics suck..
Or transplant them into some fresh growing medium ..
Try doing a total flush of the plants, ex. 1gal pot, flush with 3gal of 6.0ph water, and let them dry out, then after dry out, use a 1/4% CalMag feed, in 6.5ph water. Let them dry out about 80%, and use NO nutrients on the next watering cycle, I use the every 3day water cycle, or when they are really dry. See if that helps them to recover, the leaves will tell you what is going on, let them dry out and use up the nutrients that are left inside the plant.
Try doing a total flush of the plants, ex. 1gal pot, flush with 3gal of 6.0ph water, and let them dry out, then after dry out, use a 1/4% CalMag feed, in 6.5ph water. Let them dry out about 80%, and use NO nutrients on the next watering cycle, I use the every 3day water cycle, or when they are really dry. See if that helps them to recover, the leaves will tell you what is going on, let them dry out and use up the nutrients that are left inside the plant.
Definite nitrogen toxicity. Dark green and clawed leaves. Flush with 5.8-6.2 pH water and don't feed for about a week then feed with ~500ppm. Defoliate those larger fans because they are blocking light to the flowering buds.
Definite nitrogen toxicity. Dark green and clawed leaves. Flush with 5.8-6.2 pH water and don't feed for about a week then feed with ~500ppm. Defoliate those larger fans because they are blocking light to the flowering buds.
1.are you growing your led plants at the suggested 80-86f with c02? Running your environment at “hps/tradional” environment settings vs leds will show cal/mag issues and negatives compared to suggested temps where you can even run higher humidity at that vpd
2.Lift the lights as a test ( and see if they act more happy in 24-72 hours ), do you have suggested “ canopy inches above the light “ for that specific led, not all Led’s are the same on there distances . Trust me my spydrx’ s want 6-8 inches and the timber vero29 cob’s want 12-20 inches ( I put em at 14-15 inches typically) the key is even thou these lights have a certain “ canopy inches above the light “ you need to realize the plant wants less amount of light and just like when if you put a plant that’s not used to outdoors, you gotta put it in the shade or not direct light for a few days. If you can dim the lights through the first days and that’s one more step you had a problem with prolly.
3.next is true vpd/vpd instead of following your own environment plans. If you can conquer that and have your vpd on the proper graph of what they actually want ( man they grow so much faster ) it’s funny how many commercial growers I’ve even seen that’s one of their down falls is not getting their vpd correct.i admit I wish I would of ( that’s why now I advertise it’s the first thing to fix ad monitor daily if it was me!)
"Why devote an entire guide to VPD?" you might ask. The answer is that the vapor pressure deficit (VPD) is extremely important for growing plants. VPD helps you identify the correct range of temperature and humidity to aim for in your grow space. With VPD you can achieve the best results while...
pulsegrow.com
best tool for vpd monitoring ( at least for me ) and to tell you so much (temp,RH,Pressure & light %) about your room and to log everything from the day to the week. Is pulse environment controller
I know after this round after buying 1 and it’s saved me when I can see while chilling something is wrong I can correct it so quickly (otherwise god knows hours of stress). I would have my a/c have too much pressure (ugh) and give a error and then The Whole room would gradully get so hot ( since I did t have that pulse I didn’t know Inless I randomly went in there , now it emails and I can see it at all times on my browser )