THCFarmer.com
121,303 Members Log In Register
Log In Register

What light cycle do you prefer for flowering 12/12 or 13/11?????

  • Thread starter Thread starter paulycali
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

What light cycle do you prefer for flowering 12/12 or 13/11?????

paulycali 56 Replies 114,350 Views
Page 3 of 3 · Replies 41–57 of 57
#41
Oh no, this thread is back from the dead.. Good thread though, anecdotally I'm running 11/13 and it honestly seems very similar to 12/12.

Does anybody have hard evidence for using one lighting schedule over another to increase yield?
 
#42
12/12 you will get bigger buds, but they will also take longer.

Sometimes you want them to finish so I go down to 10/14 and then if I need to I go down to 8/16 to get them to ripen off.
 
#43
But I do most of my flowering at 12/12, the longer dark period schedule's are only for those stubborn buds that wont ripen.
 
#44
S. Plisskin said:
Has anyone tested the quality of 11 ON and 13 OFF buds? I think the 11 hours on makes them finish faster but I wonder about the quality and if the difference is noticeable. Also the yield difference.
Click to expand...
Iv always ran 18/6 for veg and 12/12 for flower but recently Iv changed to 18/6 veg... 15/9 for pre flower for a week before flower then 12/12 for the beginning of flower until week 3 then go 11/13 until week 7 or 8 depending on genetics and 10/14 tell harvest and Iv noticed a little boost in yeild but resin production is WAY better if your growing for extraction then use lower light levels/time just my experience.... DJ short says when you use a 11/13 light cycle your genetics will express more phenotypical expressions and Iv noticed each cultivar I have look way more distinctive and terp profiles become more complex but as for finish faster idk seems the same to me
 
#45
I run 12/12 for about 6 weeks and then go 11/13 to simulate winter change, I also raise my lights some. As far as hard evidence, I take my lesson from DJ short and, if that man says it's good, I'm in. I get nice strong herbs at the end so maybe that's all I need. The whole subject of grow style is all personal preference. At the end of the day if the herb is good to you, it worked.
 
Last edited:
#46
Leew421 said:
I run 12/12 for about 6 weeks and then go 11/13 to simulate winter change, I also raise my lights some. As far as hard evidence, I take my lesson from DJ short and, if that man says it's good, I'm in. I get nice strong herbs at the end so maybe that's all I need. The whole subject of grow style is all personal preference. At the end of the day if the herb is good to you, it worked.
Click to expand...
 
#47
Greetings all. First time to the site Might as well take it for another decade. First-time grower also. I have one white widow and one Jack Herer in a 4 x 4 grow tent. All the research I did not look up the size these plants were going to be so my t8 overdriven lite is on a 45 degree angle over my 20 inch White Widow and my 48 in Jack Herer LOL. My t 8 produces 200 Watts I have 2 actual 65 watt CFL eleven 23 watt CFL 4 LED 14.5 10% are 6500 K the remainder is 2,700 k. My question is being a tomato and pepper farmer with large greenhouses is that after about 6 hours of intense sunlight your plant has absorbed all they can for the day for making the buds at night would it be better to do 8 hours of intense light 12 hour of darkness and do a 20-hour day schedule thank you in advance if anybody answers this

Mrazz
 
#49
Trying out 12/12 for first two weeks , then 13/11 for weeks 3-7 then back to 12/12 maybe even 11/13 to finish!
 
#51
Wow @Vic1992 I'll give that a shot!
@Clamwrangler sounds interesting, yeah I am just guessing but I think last couple weeks would be good to give them less light. One of my plants has about 2 weeks left and I know its not really gaining any size, but frost yes.
 
#52
I always start 12/12 - week 3 -4-11-13 -rest of the way 10-14 that's the way I've done it for many grows ,power saving number #1- no less 1/2 lb per plant ,I spend next to no time in my room , when I was younger spent too much time
 
#53
yeah you should the 2 weeks keep giving them less light and if you keep a little more cold in your tent for the last 3 days maybe 50-60 degrees and it just makes the finish product a lot more oily and trichome pruductin goes up as well.
 
#55
Gro said:
i posted a thread related to this but put it in the wrong place,...i'm new to the e-farm thing.sorry logic.
in it i mentioned a variable light schedule for a 9 week strain i am running.
week 1-3 12hrs on
week 4-6 13hrs on
week 7-9 12hrs on:cool:

i have found that starting with 13 hours doesn't budset hard or quick enough for me.
and finishing with 13 seems to affects trichome development.i do enjoy the boost in
weight the x-tra light gives me.a total of 21 hours of light per run.

good luck.
Click to expand...
You wanna know a trichome trick, go an extra week of flowering so its past trichome clear stage, you want in between clear and cloudy, perfect balance of psychoactive head high and a numbing body buzz, works for all, takes some practice to get the color right and a trichome magnifying glass, if you're a pro grower I'm sure you'll nail with 2 grows, or better way do a 1 week start for plants a 3 week start for plants and a 5 week start for plants lots of practice finishing different times every 2 weeks, go by the first stuff I said about the 1 more week, it has to be right in the middle of the colorings , you'll get it(jewelry loop)
 
#56
Ok in my grow I run 12/12 for 7 to 8 weeks depending on the strain then run 11/13 till 12 week period and flush is over plants grow when lights so I give them that extra hour shuteye
saves bulk on my power bill and the plants do not suffer they thrive more to the point . Been doing it for 15 odd years not changing a thing it ain’t broke ..... Od .
 
#57
My opinion is the more light you can get the plants in flower the bigger the yield. I run 12/12 but 13/11 is what I'm thinking this run. I wouldn't go more than that and risk revegging. It's indisputable the more light you can get them the more production. This is why we need very intense light for flower and not so much for veg. If you look up DLI and light saturation you will understand where I'm coming from. With a long light period we can reach a good DLI with moderate light at 18hrs. If going 24/0 you can use even lower light but when we flip to flower we have 12-13 hrs to get the DLI up and that requires some pretty intense lighting.

I think alot of ppl miss the fact the photo period plays a lot into the intensity we need to run. What I find is once I dial my lighting in for veg it's simple to know how hard to push them in flower. I run and 18/6 light cycle so when I flip to 12/12 I need to increase my ppfd/lux/par however you measure by 1/3.

If I was going from 24/0 to 12/12 then I would double my intensity at flip to get the same DLI. So pushing the plants to see a little light stress then back off in mid to late veg and using that number will essentially remove all the guess work for when you flip to flower and that's the important part since we want the most light possible without burning, bleeching or stress in flower to get the best quality and productivity.

So in short if you aren't maxing your DLI in 12 hrs then yes I feel you will benefit from 13/11 but I wouldn't push more than that for risk of revegging.
 
Page 3 of 3 · Replies 41–57 of 57
Back
Top Bottom