What's the Best HP Aero Misters???

[pacog]

Alright My fellow Farmers. I want you opinions and Input on HP Aero Misters.

Looking to set a few Trials up and need to Figure out which HP Aero Mister to go with???

What do you feel is the Best brand out there and Why??

Where do you get them from??

How are you running them in your set up as far as layout?

 

[FLB]

Any of them will work pacog, the biggest problem peeps have is the heads clogging. With running at higher psi and using an effluent trap, you will not see this problem not saying it can't happen but very unlikely. That is why I run at two heads per bucket in case one does clog.

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Never used for plants but they are well built. JK

 

[pacog]

Never used for plants but they are well built. JK

JK... I checked those out when you posted in another thread. Very Interesting.

Would you have to run with their Pump system as well. Or do you think you could get their Misters to work with other pump set ups? They really don't have Much detail on the site.

 

[MASSES 420KING]

to be honest i dont know what hp means other than hash plant or horse-power but imo the best aero mister is the VORTEX SPRAYER made by general hydroponics it atomizes the nutrient solution which makes it ultra available for the fine root hairs to absorb

 

[another_sellout]

HP is high pressure. "Atomized" only means "in mist form". The purpose is to get a radical oxygen attached to your nutrients so the plant can uptake them. An air stone and ozone generator will do you better than dropping some ridiculous amount of money trying to "atomize" your nutrient solution. The Home Despot sells irrigation sprayers for about fifty cents a piece. They're little and yellow or purple, and they screw into normal irrigation tube or you can poke them straight into the side of half inch hose. They do the same thing with a very modest pump. I'll get a picture up of one of my buckets, you'll dig it.

 

[another_sellout]

This is my bucket.
There are many like it,
but this one is mine.

Simple as can be:
1x 5 gallon bucket
1x 6" net pot lid
1x $10 pump w/ 1/2" out
1x 1/2" T fitting
5x spray nozzles
& a few feet of hose

Optional:
1x 2" neoprene insert
2x 1/2" grommets
2x 1/2" L fittings
& a foot of blue 1/2" hose
You can just cut a slit in the net pot and run the cord out the 6" hole, and lift the lid to see the water line, but where's the fun in that?

You also NEED to drop an air stone in it. Like DD's High Speed DWRC, it's meant to optimize the air to water ratio to maximize nutrient uptake. This bucket will grow three to four foot tall, two or three foot wide plants with 400w or 600w vertical lighting and the tomato cage on top. They're easy to daisy chain together, too. Top feed daily for the first week or so until you see roots pouring out the sides. I top feed to replenish my water level anyway after that, too. Hope this helps.

 

[another_sellout]

Also, to the comment about clogged spray emitters, there are two ways to prevent the problem entirely. First, never allow any organic material into your reservoir like dead leaves or chunky Foxfarm Big Bloom. Strain everything through a pair of doubled up panty hose if you insist on using it anyway. Technaflora's Pura Vida line was designed exclusively for aero emitters. It's 100% organic OMRI listed goodness, and you won't need high ppm's, either. Second is to run a filter on your pumps and a screen on your return. Panty hose pulled over a pump that's too small for an individual filter will work fine. Love aero. Best.

 

[pacog]

A.S. Thanks for the Pics and Comments. Nice Little Bucket Set up. What are you Averaging Gram per watt with this set up?

I will have to look at the Technaflora's Pura Vida. I am looking at new Nute Lines right now. Was considering House and Garden.

As for the Ozone generator, do you use one in the Rez.? Wouldn't it kill all Enzymes and Benei's? Cause I am looking at using H&G Roots Excelurator. Have seen nothing but good results and comments.

There is a world of Difference Between HP and LP Aero as I am sure you know. Take a look at Tree Farmers thread. HP Aero and Trees. Very Impressive to say the least. The object is to get the prefect size water droplet which is around 50 Microns. To create Super Fine Air roots. Can't get the same roots with LP aero. Also HP can Much more cost effective in the long Run. Much Shorter Pump Run Cycles when storage tanks are used.

Cost is Not an Major issue I am looking for Optimal performance. But I might have to do a LP run first.

I am looking at Doing a Hybrid: Drip, HPmist/or LPmist either Flood and Drain or RDWC. 20+ Gal containers. I figure the flood and drain means less water overall. Multiple containers as well. So Big Pumps start to add up.

Tree Farmer suggested 18 cubic Feet for a Single HP Aero tree.

Aero is Cool for Sure.

 

[another_sellout]

Gram per watt varies by strain, and going to vertical lights changed my life, but around a gram to a gram and a half is not unexpected. Integrates really well with a top feed drip and RDWC, but they're's not a lot of water in the base. More room for droplets. Ebb & flow is going to collapse those precious feeder roots you're trying to cultivate for all the misty goodness. Serious about those Pura Vida nutrients, though. Ass kickers. As for going with micro-bio instead of ozone is another great control of nastiness and way to produce active oxygen, but anything that's alive is going to die. Dead organic matter is what clogs your emitters. You're gonna know when every bug drowns if you're not running filters and screens. Why try to integrate something that's going to cling to the sides of your reservoir, and the insides of hoses, pumps and emitters? Yes. Normal healthy growth will clog your emitters. That's why I dropped my beloved Foxfarm for my aero babies. Too much poo. That shit got shitty. As for inspiration, check out the links to DD's medical buckets. They're the base half of what it sounds like you're trying to achieve. I'm gonna go check out the Tree Farmer.

Forgot: Ozone in the reservoir. When growing indoors, your yield comes from the wattage and root space you provide and the plants ability to uptake nutrients and transpire as fast as possible. Therefore, it's easier to maintain a clean and sterile environment than it is to attempt to provide all of the controls nature gives us for free. The micro-rhyzo (bacteria) and mycelial growth (fungus) you're trying to bring into your reservoir are designed to create a mycelial web through a soil structure, and in doing so, facilitate the movement of nutrients through the soil making them accessible to the plant. Since you're not using soil, and going far out of your way to create an environment where the nutrients are brought to the roots in the most available manner, this is a wasted effort. You've already done that work. Well. Think about how ridiculous it would be to bring other biological controls inside. Would you release lady bugs in your room? Ten thousand tiny wasps for mites? What a mess. The biggest control of disease and filth, free from the sun, is ozone. Ultraviolet light breaks O2 into two free radical oxygen. This free radical oxygen does several things. It allows H2O to become H2O2, or peroxide, which breaks down organic wastes, because your plants poop in the reservoir. Really. Also, every N, P, K and micro-nute in your reservoir needs a free radical oxygen to piggy back on to be uptaken by those fuzzy roots. Bring it to where the plants need it. Normally, the rain brings this love to the roots. I think you should, too. Isn't a good offense the best defense?

 

[pacog]

Gram per watt varies by strain, and going to vertical lights changed my life, but around a gram to a gram and a half is not unexpected. Integrates really well with a top feed drip and RDWC, but they're's not a lot of water in the base. More room for droplets. Ebb & flow is going to collapse those precious feeder roots you're trying to cultivate for all the misty goodness. Serious about those Pura Vida nutrients, though. Ass kickers. As for going with micro-bio instead of ozone is another great control of nastiness and way to produce active oxygen, but anything that's alive is going to die. Dead organic matter is what clogs your emitters. You're gonna know when every bug drowns if you're not running filters and screens. Why try to integrate something that's going to cling to the sides of your reservoir, and the insides of hoses, pumps and emitters? Yes. Normal healthy growth will clog your emitters. That's why I dropped my beloved Foxfarm for my aero babies. Too much poo. That shit got shitty. As for inspiration, check out the links to DD's medical buckets. They're the base half of what it sounds like you're trying to achieve. I'm gonna go check out the Tree Farmer.

Forgot: Ozone in the reservoir. When growing indoors, your yield comes from the wattage and root space you provide and the plants ability to uptake nutrients and transpire as fast as possible. Therefore, it's easier to maintain a clean and sterile environment than it is to attempt to provide all of the controls nature gives us for free. The micro-rhyzo (bacteria) and mycelial growth (fungus) you're trying to bring into your reservoir are designed to create a mycelial web through a soil structure, and in doing so, facilitate the movement of nutrients through the soil making them accessible to the plant. Since you're not using soil, and going far out of your way to create an environment where the nutrients are brought to the roots in the most available manner, this is a wasted effort. You've already done that work. Well. Think about how ridiculous it would be to bring other biological controls inside. Would you release lady bugs in your room? Ten thousand tiny wasps for mites? What a mess. The biggest control of disease and filth, free from the sun, is ozone. Ultraviolet light breaks O2 into two free radical oxygen. This free radical oxygen does several things. It allows H2O to become H2O2, or peroxide, which breaks down organic wastes, because your plants poop in the reservoir. Really. Also, every N, P, K and micro-nute in your reservoir needs a free radical oxygen to piggy back on to be uptaken by those fuzzy roots. Bring it to where the plants need it. Normally, the rain brings this love to the roots. I think you should, too. Isn't a good offense the best defense?

A.S. Thanks again for the feedback.

I have read DD's post and Most others Using the MPB's.

Jalisco Kid has the Best Systems out there!!! Not much info or pics but from what I have seen and heard so Far. Cream of the Crop Shit.

As for the Flood and Drain would only be about 1/2-2/3 of the Bucket to be Flooded So there would still be plenty of Fine Air Roots.

I am NOT looking to use the Micro-rhyzo or any other Bacteria. Was more looking at the Enzymes. But if similar results can be had by adding a Ozone generator to the rez might try that route.

Any suggestion on Size of Ozone generators? Just some Basic Figures will work.

 

[metalsmoker]

Again Ozone in the Res? Please explain..

 

[another_sellout]

"Again Ozone in the Res? Please explain..."
Just read above where it says "Forgot:"

As for ozone generator size, the standard $150 model from CAP has a ridiculous capacity, and will probably have to be put on a timer unless you're trying to cover 3000 square feet of floor space. Just keep your air pump near the generator, and it'll do the rest for you. I think they do offer a submersible UV for reservoirs now, but that wouldn't give you the benefits of odor, fungus and mold control that ozone in the air does. If you grow at home, you'll be surprised to see how much better you personally will feel as well.

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Ozone in your room harms plants. I am sorry but unless you have facts as to where you can run ozone hot enough to kill molds and bacteria and not harm plants or my lungs I would have to say your post needs to be rewritten. JK

 

[pacog]

A.S. Thanks again for your comments.

I am sure you know Large amounts of Ozone are not good for people or pets.

I actually found a model that goes directly into the Rez itself. The company that makes it called SIP they make them for to sanitize Water coolers(SIP 2000). I guess I will have to figure out the correct amount of time to run it.

What would be the Down Side to too much Ozone in the Rez?

 

[pacog]

JK what do you think about running Ozone in the REZ?

I can see where as, A.S. explained above and how it adds another Oxygen molecule to H2O. How much is to Much??? Have you ever experimented with this technique?

 

[pacog]

Here is the link.

 

[Jalisco Kid]

I do not like sterile environments. What happens in the last few buckets when they get disease. The uv light is at the other end of the plumbing. I would rather have my raggedy hungery mirco herd there to protect me. If you are out of cali look at a product called kodiak. I get my stuff normally from bio-organics but have just bought some benis to try at 50 bucks for 25 lbs. JK

 

[Jalisco Kid]

This is a killer company,talk with them if you go that route. Love their chillers.

JK

 

[another_sellout]

JK- I know you're gangster, and much respect, but in my post I'd said you'd need to use an appropriate timer without massive square footage to swallow it up. Killing mold, mildew, fungus, and most insects takes nothing but normal levels of ozone. I've never hurt a plant or myself with ozone. In 5 years with it. The level dangerous to plants is much, much higher than that for a human, and beyond what I could ever produce. As for the "risk", would you tell me you don't run CO2 because high levels of it are dangerous to me and my pets? Or is there a visable benefit to the plants? I'd earlier stated he should run individual airstones to each plant. He wouldn't be seeing disease in the far reaches of his daisy chained plants anyway. Ozone becomes peroxide in water, and moves with it. It also won't attack strong aerobic beneficials. A lot of the bacillius flavors, amongst many others, will do just fine with it. My point was that in aeroponics, everything that's alive will die and want to clog his emitters without a control that accelerates the break down organic wastes and neutralizes their build up. These ideas aren't mutually exclusive. I'm a firm believer in compost tea, and willingly walk it inside to my aeroponic reservoir. Filtered through an old kief screen, low levels of ozone only destroy anaerobic nastiness and prevent the overtake of strange growth on the reservoir walls. Thank you for reminding me that there are risks, but I'm only worried about looking directly at the bulb.

Pacog- The risk of running too much ozone is that it does become peroxide in the water. High levels of peroxide will burn the root structure. I wouldn't run a submerged UV light bulb in the reservoir, because electricity and water are not fun to mingle, and the point of the submersible is to kill everything in the water. You're roots are in the water. So, for appropriate levels of ozone, CAP makes one for a ten foot by ten foot room that plugs straight in to the wall and has a built in automated timer. $80. The larger model comes with a math problem for your square footage to time ratio. A 200 square foot room is 15 on and an hour off. A good ozone level is so mild that I've never had anyone walk into my home to notice it or the smell of my plants. Ever. Good air circulation is key for odor control. Now, as for the ozone that goes to the reservoir, this is going to be coming from the air pump that's just placed next to the ozone generator, down your air lines to the stones in each plant's root ball reservoir. It will intake ozone directly only while the pump is on, and residually until it's burnt from destroying odor, breaking down organic waste, carrying nutrients, attacking anaerobic nasty, helping clean stoma, and all that jazz, etc. You want only enough ozone to protect the plant, not attack it. Ozone is as everyday as the sunshine that produces it. It benefits everything good and destroys everything bad. And it's cheap. Anything that keeps your emitters flowing smoothly is multiplying your yield. That simple. As for high pressure nozzles, are you thinking of running high pressure water or water with high pressure air?