Drop humidity. There are all types of organic approaches basically changing ph of the surface can help. Like water and milk or baking soda and water. If you just went into 12/12 no problem with spraying. The more you get into flower the more control of humidity you need.

sounds like mildew.

neverbreak

probably powdery mildew ...thats why i kind to grow from seed.. i used to get it from clones at dispensaries ...

yep, most likely. powdery mildew will spread to all your plants if ya don't control it. plenty of info out there to help you, but here's a good bit.

"Temperatures between 11-28° C. and excess humidity (without rain) can provide suitable conditions for powdery mildew spores to become active, especially on plants have been affected by drought, or are under-fertilised.
Powdery mildew spores are carried by air and, once active, will continue to spread in dry conditions. This fungal problem affects a wide range of fruit, vegetable and ornamental plants. In most plants, it shows as a dusting of grey-white powder on foliage, and distortion or puckering of new leaves. The infection often begins on the underside of leaves. On mangoes, fruit develops brown to purple patches, and grey patches on papaws. Apples develop light lines across the surface of fruit.
Preventative spraying with wettable sulphur is not recommended because sulphur is damaging to beneficial insects that keep pests under control, and a pest outbreak will often occur after spraying or dusting with sulphur. Sulphur will also damage plants if applied to plants that are short of water, or when temperatures are above 30° C.
Powdery mildews are usually caused by Oidiumspp. fungi, and can be controlled by organic powdery mildew treatment or applications of German chamomile tea. For each 500 ml of spray required, steep one teabag in a cup of boiling water for 15 minutes, then dilute to 500 ml with cold water. Remove and destroy severely affected leaves, then spray the rest of foliage early in day so that leaves have time to dry before nightfall. Don’t forget to spray both sides of leaves.
Powdery mildew is common where plants are deficient in potassium and some trace elements, as when the plants have exhausted their supply of fertiliser, or when they cannot absorb nutrients because soil is too dry. Seaweed extract is rich in both potassium and a range of trace elements (including sulphur), and spraying foliage with seaweed tea can be effective against powdery mildew, not because it kills the fungi, but because it quickly provides the nutrients plants require to resist these fungi.
To avoid this problem in future, ensure that fruits and vegetables have adequate complete fertiliser to last them through harvesting, including an annual application of seaweed extract tea to soil around plants. also ensure that they receive adequate water for steady growth but avoid overhead watering. It is difficult for some gardeners to understand that good cultivation practices can prevent pest and disease problems but it is true. The pea plants in the photo only developed powdery mildew after I had collected pods for seed and I had ceased to water them."

good luck with it.

neverbreak

trashum...

joeca1i said:

trashum...

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What....

So yeah id take his advice....pftt

You've got to deal with mildew quickly or it'll spread all over your plants. Get onto it mate!

prevention is key. like everyone is saying get humidity in line.

i spray clones with neem, it helps prevent PM and does other stuff too

treat: pinch of baking soda and water works temporarily, and so does PM Wash which you can spray safely in flower. Its 99%water, supposedly frequency water. Lots of people will say you're throwing your money away, but it's worth a shot when you don't want to use chems and it did work for me, not sure how though.

I never tried German Chamomile. I have had great success with sprays, a vinegar solution (douche, lol) A bicarb mix worked very good as well. Some folks treat it as a maintainence thing and spray for prevention..instead of waiting or it to show up. That's what I will be doing this year.

Some folks use a raw diluted milk spray but the thought of the possibility of the heat "curing" the milk doesn't sound like something I want on my plants. It may attract flies as well...and other critters.

Ive heard of an interesting variation of the milk. They used powdered milk because it lacked something that caused the real milk to sour. It was mixed with water and used as a foiler but there was a very good reason for it being powdered , im just too stoned to remember now. Maybe someone will know? I think any spray is a band-aid ghetto fix for an environment control problem that should be addressed with an exhaust, a dehumidifier, or leaving the AC at a lower point to keep the compressor on longer. However you do it DROP the humidity and LOSE the mold.

Last summer I got a mild case of PM. I had clones and seeded plants in my greenhouse. Only the clones got PM and the plants I started for seed never got touched by it. Coincidence? I dunno.

I as usual disagree with most on this subject and very recently proved it in a friends grow- get your environment dialed, i.e.- your rh in the 50% with less than a 5-10% climb with lights off. The idea is to let your plants be healthy enough to fight off mold themselves. Sprays work or whatever, but getting your environment dialed is ideal- less than 5-8 degree temp change between lights on and off and less than 10% humidity shift. This often requires huey/de-huey and ac.

Was in a homies room recently, witnessed rh shifts and new case of PM. I had them do one spray, and fix the rh shift...guess what plants came back fine with no mold. big surprise (not really)....

pretty much what everyone else said. lower your humidity. PM loves high humidity and high temps. I have also heard that if you mist down the leaves with plain water that seems to help in conjunction with lowering the rh. the PM drowns and dissolves.I forgot where I read that article( pretty stoned off of some underdog og and platinum orange crush co2 wax) but I read it probably 2-3 days ago

evrbody already told ya, PM , and best to treat as preventative and not hafta deal w/it latr, again the best environment wins in all ways bruh

kolah said:

Some folks use a raw diluted milk spray but the thought of the possibility of the heat "curing" the milk doesn't sound like something I want on my plants. It may attract flies as well...and other critters.

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That just sounds wrong. I'm with you on not wanting milk drying all over my plants. Surely a recipe for disaster.

I have never personally known anyone to get rid of PM by treating it with anything. I second, or third the motion to just trash them, clean up, get your shit right and start new. Totally fucking depressing and is discouraging, but in the long run its the cheapest and quickest way to do it, else you spend a ton of money and time with treatments that will still leave you with a PM infestation anyway.

FYIW I cried many tears while chopping down every single plant I had, and tearing down my entire room to start new.

Using skim milk/water at 1/10 will work to help with the symptoms. I prefer this to green cure and other sprays because it dries tasteless odorless etc. Greencure has some perfumey shit in it that I can taste even if I apply it early in flower. I used it once and it worked ok but it is only a temporary measure. Also IMHO if your plant has PM it is sick and if it outbreaks you will have a plant that is sick enough that the yield will definitely be affected. I finally got rid of it in my rooms with excell lg. It killed my PM systemically but it may have no effect on yours.

That just sounds wrong. I'm with you on not wanting milk drying all over my plants. Surely a recipe for disaster.

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Yes milk has been used for a long time. Don't be scared
There are thousands of pages to read on the subject. Google "Skim milk for powdery mildew"

Yeah milk at 1/10 works fine, and agreed its sick plants that get PM. Again its about the environment. Lowering your rh does nothing but make it easier for spores to fly around, regulate your rh to the range it needs to be for ideal growth to attack the problem.

I read where the milk has to be raw. Not sure though.