Enforcer
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Good point. Thanks manAll killer info I just want to point one thing out incase others who are interested in growing organically are reading,
Most organic people wont use perlite because it floats to the top and your soil becomes compact over time. Pumice or lava rock is the goto
That’s exactly what I run and why I run it
The net pot is a bad idea
about your dozes - you are making it 100 times stronger than what I did (and I worked according to what I read in other forums). is it working good for you?That’s 32oz of water to 60ml H2O2
Yes, I still think it’s a bad idea. But to each his own.My roots are in darkness, of course. I use net to see the roots, and I plant it again and again in bigger nets each time the roots go out of the net. Do you still think it is a bad idea?
about your dozes - you are making it 100 times stronger than what I did (and I worked according to what I read in other forums). is it working good for you?
just to make sure - you are adding it to the water that your plants drink, yes?
thanks a lot :)
Yes, I still think it’s a bad idea. But to each his own.
Yes, this ratio works well for me. I just use it to spray down surfaces. No, I don’t add it to the res. I use microbes and the H2O2 would kill them.
All you need is water and aloe...oh. one last thing. i'm kinda like you when i came on here i was a lost damn sheep. @Ecompost @Organikz and some others that aren't even here anymore lead me towards growing organically.
i can honestly say i would've given up and stopped if it wasn't for them, now it's becoming a genuine hobby. it's the easiest way to grow by far, if you do it right it's probably the cheapest way to grow also, but people who mix their own salt based nutrients may disagree and they might be right!
best of luck
whaaaaaaaaaaaaa¿?¿??¿All you need is water and aloe...View attachment 856725
I love those hempy pots with coco or some kinda soilless medium with drippers.they yield shit hot in them.View attachment 854991
Hempy pots
Keep it Simple Stupid
what a wonderful advice. the reason I moved to Hydro is LOOKS simple, but after years I understand it isn't.
the guys in the Hydro shops convince you it is an easy task, and it is impossible to know that they are wrong.
I will move to soil, of course. can I just start feeding my plant organic nutes already? I thought giving it warm casting. I ask because it is 1 month old which lived only on chemical nutes until today.
Thank you VERY MUCH :)
I run a very similar mix. 1:1:1 coco/ffof/grow stones. A lot of guys do, it works well. I feed every day to 10-15% runoff ph 6-6.3 5-900ppm 1-1.8ec. How ya likin it thus far?Thank you
I do have soil which is not fertilized. it is 33%coco, 33%perlite, 33%soil
I don't have more information, but it say soil
All excellent points and right on target. Thanks for taking the time to type this all out.Ok, so it seems this thread needs a bit of science to explain. Soil, coco, and hydro are all completely separate entities that each have their own requirements, advantages and disadvantages.
Soil, this is where I tell most people to start their growing journey. Soil is what I consider the most forgiving growing medium. This is due to the cation exchange capacity (CEC) of soil. Cations are positively charged molecules, in this case the cations are found naturally within the soil and in any additional nutrients we apply. The positively charged cations bind with negatively charged particles in the soil. As particles move through the soil they interact with the other molecules making up the soil and will react by either releasing the cation or binding with a new cation making nutrients available or binding them up in the soil to be released later. Ultimately this means that nutrients will only be available to your plants as the soils sees fit. This is determined by the make-up of the soil; soils with more clay or organic (carbon based) material will typically have a higher CEC and release nutrients slower than soils high in minerals.
Within soils there is much more biological activity, particularly in soils with proper amounts of organic material. This biological activity also has a major effect upon how and when certain nutrients are released or bound. In soils with higher amounts of organic material nutrient toxicity is less common because there are a lot of negatively charged particles to bind the actions for later release. This is a natural buffer and why even mediocre soil grows will produce a decent harvest. The organic matter of the soil also breaks down over time naturally releasing nutrients in forms available to the plants. This is why in proper healthy organic soil little to no outside nutrients are needed.
Most potting soils have a sphagnum base then organic materials are added to the mix. Technically the sphagnum is inert, but it has a CEC very similar to proper mineral based soil. This is often why folks growing in Pro-Mix or other peat growing mediums typically call themselves soil gardeners; though in actuallity it is not truly soil.
Coco coir is simply the husks of coconuts that have been shredded up. While an organic product it is by no means soil. It does not have the make-up of soil nor does it have a CEC similar to soil. There is little to no organic material that is going to break down and provide food to plants in coco. Given the source for coco coir the medium often has high levels of salt naturally in the medium which is why it is typically recommended to wash the coco before use. This is another departure from how plants are grown in soil.
While considered inert coco does have a tendency to lock up available calcium and often can release too much potassium. This is why many nutrient companies have made coco specific nutrients that often have additional calcium and lower levels of K. The lower CEC of coco compared to soil also means that nutrients have to be applied regularly to coco to maintain plant health because most of what isn't immediately used by the plants will come out in the run-off. However this does not mean salts won't build up in the medium, they will. And allowing a flush period before harvest is never a bad idea.
Coco also holds more air than soil. This allows the coco to dry at a quicker rate making it possible to apply water and nutrients more regularly. It also allows for rapid growth of the root zone.
The lower CEC and higher levels of root zone air make coco growing more akin to hydroponics rather than soil growing. This is why we use a more acidic nutrient feed in coco than we do in soil, it keeps the nutrients at a pH where a broader spectrum of elements are available to the plants.
Hydroponic mediums, if any are used at all have a very low CEC making nutrients almost completely available to plants. This is good because we can give our plants as much or as little nutrients as they need to grow and thrive. When all things are in balance hydroponically grown plants will grow faster and healthier because they are getting all available nutrients, not just what is made available by the medium. Often the medium in hydro systems is there only to anchor plants, not provide the roots with any nutrients, and the water is the only source of nutrients for the plants; there is no buffer for nutrients.
This can also be a drawback; if the nutrient solution has too many nutrients it will damage the plants, we see nutrient burn. While the plants may recover the damage has been done and yields will likely suffer. On the other hand if there are not enough nutrients the plants will also be stunted and they will not grow to their greatest potential. This is why the EC (or PPM or TDS), pH and temperature become so vital in hydroponic systems, these are the factors that determine nutrient availability.
With hydro we see changes rapidly and therefore must continuously be monitoring our systems. When we see changes we must deal with them immediately because they can often have drastic effects on our plants health quickly. Issues like root rot also tend to be more prevalent and more damaging in hydro because there are no buffers to protect the plants.
Hopefully this offers some insight into the differences in each style of grow and why none is exactly like the other.
Just trying to add some stability as to what’s available nutrient-wise in large containers of coco as it dries-which is potentially for a couple few days in the early weeks of flowering for me. @Smoking Gun explained it far better than I could, thanks chief.Why are you adding ffof if you are feeding daily? I’m just trying to understand what the benefit is.
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