Why We Need Mycorrhizal Fungi

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J

Jalisco Kid

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When ectos do not work with herb why use it. It only populates some evergreens. I think P does more then make them lazy over 60 ppm really cuts into the herd. JK
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
So far with the use both in dirt and hydro I have been able to cut back my nutrient runs by as much as a 3rd.
In dirt I used to have to water every day indoors with the room heat being 92 avg, but since adding Mycorrhizal I was able get 2 day break in between watering.

As for the 100 plants I have going right now out doors I use a gel type dip before I planted them and then a month into growing I added an OZ of fungi to the feed water to help exploded the roots.

I just used crushed Neem berries mixed in the dirt to start and when they hit bloom I will be using more neem berries and and a 0-0-22 booster. If you feed your plants to much phosphorus the Fungi get lazy. If you keep the phosphorus low it will make the fungi search for it, this means long, large roots.
I hit them hard with P later in the flowering cycle and it works well for me.

Hope this helped out.

Spl1
In dirt I used to have to water every day indoors with the room heat being 92 avg, but since adding Mycorrhizal I was able get 2 day break in between watering.
Can you explain why you need less water?


As for the 100 plants I have going right now out doors I use a gel type dip before I planted them and then a month into growing I added an OZ of fungi to the feed water to help exploded the roots.

What do you use were an oz. will feed 100 plants and what do you use that will cause roots to explode?
Suerte JK
 
L

Lost

2,969
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When ectos do not work with herb why use it. It only populates some evergreens. I think P does more then make them lazy over 60 ppm really cuts into the herd. JK

..cuz great white comes with it anyway. Its a great product and it works. Not like I can ask them to brew it without :) Not that I would anyway, its works great as it is..
 
E

ehole

106
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the great white comes with only 13 spores per cc of 4 different endos so they didn't throw in very much, the trichoderma are really what seperates it from their plant success soluble line.
mycos and a chiller- i'll never do hydro without. but what are y'alls thoughts on the impeller on the the water pump breaking the fragile mycos up? also when do you stop adding mycos? personally i don't add after week 7 (days51-60) rez change on a 70 day strain
 
L

Lost

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Ehole agree with your post. Im sure it kills some but you are trying to get high levels in the root mass (remember these are very small organizms, they probablly have little trouble surviving free floating in the nute solution untill they find something to colonize.) Im sure the bennies have a way to latch on to the rootmass and other things and make colonies. We know that because it works.
 
S

spl

67
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Close up of Mycorrhizal Fungi at Work

In dirt I used to have to water every day indoors with the room heat being 92 avg, but since adding Mycorrhizal I was able get 2 day break in between watering.
Can you explain why you need less water?


As for the 100 plants I have going right now out doors I use a gel type dip before I planted them and then a month into growing I added an OZ of fungi to the feed water to help exploded the roots.

What do you use were an oz. will feed 100 plants and what do you use that will cause roots to explode?
Suerte JK

Fungi will store water and food for the plant in time of drought.

As for the OZ of Myco max soluble is what I use it is mycorrhizal applications best product they have. It will pass threw a #70 screen (220 microns).

Here is the spec of that product:
Endomycorrhizal fungi - Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Glomus etunicatum, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora brasilianum, Gigaspora monosporum

Ectomycorrhizal fungi - Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Pisolithus tinctorius, Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum, Suillus granulatas, Suillus punctatapies

Trichoderma - Trichoderma harzianum, Trichoderma konigii

Beneficial Bacteria - Bacillus subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus azotoformans, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus pumlis, Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus stearothermiphilis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Paenibacillus durum, Paenibacillus florescence, Paenibacillus gordonae, Azotobacter polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Sacchromyces cervisiae, Streptomyces griseues, Streptomyces lydicus, Pseudomonas aureofaceans, Deinococcus erythromyxa

-- Nature is Beautiful! — This is our colonized root fragment Inocula. In this picture we see the big balls in the root with the cell walls which are the spores, the fine spiderweb bushes are vesicles and the football shaped cell is a storage vesicle. You can also see some filaments of the mycorrhizal association growing outside the root.
 
Fungi
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
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Dr. Earth, Organic #. Take your pick, I started off with Organic 5, moved to Organic 4, plan to give Organic 8 Bud & Bloom Booster a try when my local garden center gets the big bags in. Top-dressing dry, or make a tea with it, then reuse the leftover solids.

Propagules, it haz dem.
 
View attachment dr.earth.organic5-microbes.doc
S

spl

67
0
Dr. Earth, Organic #. Take your pick, I started off with Organic 5, moved to Organic 4, plan to give Organic 8 Bud & Bloom Booster a try when my local garden center gets the big bags in. Top-dressing dry, or make a tea with it, then reuse the leftover solids.

Propagules, it haz dem.

Cool, it looks like some good stuff
 
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