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IamN2pot
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That's sort of what I was thinking, but I know nothing about how oxygen levels in the water effect growth. Temps either for that matter. My local grow store uses Hydrogen Peroxide, but no chiller and to be honest, my soil looks better than their DWC. I never added anything but RO and GH nutes to the veggies. Well, almost never. I wanted to experiment with our Chlorimine water supply. I litterly watched the lettus wilt and 30 minutes later the lettuce roots were a rusty red color. Better learned on lettuce than cannabis...N2,
Question…what is the altitude your vegetables growing at?
Zill.
hat's sort of what I was thinking, but I know nothing about how oxygen levels in the water effect growth. Temps either for that matter. My local grow store uses Hydrogen Peroxide, but no chiller and to be honest, my soil looks better than their DWC. I never added anything but RO and GH nutes to the veggies. Well, almost never. I wanted to experiment with our Chlorimine water supply. I litterly watched the lettus wilt and 30 minutes later the lettuce roots were a rusty red color. Better learned on lettuce than cannabis...
Thanks for the info. I know there are alot of "hydro" growers around here, but not "true" hydro. They plant in peat and water with "hydro" nutes. That's the route I went for a couple grows as well, but decided to go back to more of a "supersoil" JAWS method (Just Add Water StupidKeep in mind that there are two ways of running hydro, live and sterile. Sounds like your grow store is running sterile because of the H2O2....kills all bacteria both good and bad. Live hydro utilizes a more natural approach with live bacteria. Thing is with live, you got good bacteria (friends) and bad bacteria (enemies) and the trick is to help the good so that it will overpower the bad. Good likes cooler water, bad not so much. So in a live system you want to run a chiller, you can get away without it running sterile.
Oxygen levels in the water greatly affect growth, one reason hydro is so effective. Water temps also matter, the warmer, the better the plant likes it but the trade off is that the bad bacteria also like the warmer water temps. Ideally I try to run my water temps at 68F.
I used to live in Greeley and I have a friend who had great success with hydro. Greeley is not that much lower in elevation than Denver.
What exactly would call "true" hydro, pls explain.Thanks for the info. I know there are alot of "hydro" growers around here, but not "true" hydro. They plant in peat and water with "hydro" nutes. That's the route I went for a couple grows as well, but decided to go back to more of a "supersoil" JAWS method (Just Add Water Stupid). IDK, DWC may be even more involved than the peat/hydro was? Oh, to me 'hydro' is DWC, flood and drain, and variations of them without organic (peat or coco) base for the roots. Does that make DWC a 'steril' method? With those veggies, it was just pH'ed RO with GH nutes on a 20-40 gal rated aquarium pump with 2 stones per tote. Changed water every 7 days and harvested regularly. The pictures were taken in July and I keep the house at 78* in the summer. I have no idea what water temps were.
Thanks for your advice and experiance, @Moe.Red and @SweetLeafGrow
Oh, to me 'hydro' is DWC, flood and drain, and variations of them without organic (peat or coco) base for the roots.
DWC can be either sterile, live, or neither.Does that make DWC a 'steril' method?
THanks for the explaination. That helps alot!DWC can be either sterile, live, or neither.
Sterile means you are using H2O2 (peroxide) or similar to kill all bacteria and fungi in the water.
Live means you are inoculating your system with helpful lifeforms that have evolved to be symbiotic with cannabis. Example Great White from the grow shop.
Neither means you are so damn good at growing that you laugh at things like Pythium, and use neither H2O2 or Great White.
The last one is not recommended for new growers, but is quite often what they unknowingly do leading to all kinds of root problems.
No problem.THanks for the explaination. That helps alot!...and as previously stated, I would fit right into that last 'unknowingly' group of newbs, I likely just didn't keep at it long enough to have many root issues. After nearly killing the arugula with my city tap water..., I wanted to see if our Chloramine water would be good after 4 days of sitting. Within minutes the letuce was wilting, literally and the roots turned orange. Needless to say, I've been using a catalytic activated carbon filter as well doing my pH down with L-ascorbic acid (vitamine C) for my supersoil JAWS grows ever since.
Anyway, from the experiance and knowlwdge here, it looks like I should be relatively fine doing DWC and any issues won't really be from a lack of oxygen to the roots, as long as I'm aerifying well and constantly. Is there any advantage to an air pump and stone verses a circulating water pump with venturi?
ROFL!!!!...that is like cutting off your ears because it's just easier to use your eyes.
For a single 5 gal, I don't think a venturi is a good fit.LOL, @Moe.Red , I found the venturi assembly on Amazon, but what size submersable for a single 5gal bucket. Looks like they come in sizes from around 350GPH to infinity and beyond!!!! Can you have to much circulation with a larger submersible? damage roots?
Hey deadstill how’s things haven’t seen you around for a minute.First of all, not to be rude or anything but being the "Mr. Technical" that I am, this is sort of a pet peeve of mine - Altitude is in reference to a plane or being off the ground. Elevation is when you're on the ground (lots of folks get these confused) lol
At any rate I, too, grow in Colorado and I'm at a higher elevation than Denver. While there may be some slight difference in the O2 content of water at different elevations, I highly doubt it's enough to make or notice a difference in a DWC system. I prefer NFT for my hydroponics systems and have never had an issue. If anything, add a decent air pump/stone to your reservoir if you don't have one already, and it should be fine.
One tip I always like to recommend is to try to keep your air pump outside of your grow room or tent. This way you're not circulating any CO2 into your res. Keep your air pump somewhere where it can get fresh air, and run the lines into your grow room accordingly.
But no, in my experience growing at both sea level and over 6,000 feet elevation, I cannot say that I have noticed any difference in growth nor do I adjust my nutrients differently. I do notice, however, outdoor growing at 6,000 feet, the sun gets INTENSE and a shade cloth is *almost* necessary. At this elevation there is less atmosphere to protect from UV, etc.. So we tend to get sunburned faster, cars get hotter, faster, than at sea level. So plants can take it, but I usually try to throw a shade cloth over my outdoor grows (although most of them are too big) and the plants thrive.
This is all just in my experience and I'm not saying anything is set in stone, for everyone has a different style and/or opinion so take it for what it's worth, but I wouldn't worry too much about it, personally.
Hope this helps!
Good man just took a break from the Farm for a little while due to being busy with real life stuff but things finally slowing down a little for the winter. Although I'm still busy making preparations for next year's crops, now I have time to breathe without all the red tape, paperwork, and bureaucracies to deal with.Hey deadstill how’s things haven’t seen you around for a minute.
Biggest difference to us at elevation is that blowers are less efficient because the air is thinner
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