YIKES - heat stress threatens much of crop

[MImedMJpatient]

What I need to know is that once the buds in my tent (White Widows at week five of flower) have gone to a rust brown pretty much all over and the buds don't seem to be getting any bigger any more, will remedying my heat issue promptly and attention to nutrition and other factors jump start these buds to stacking again or should I just cut my losses and try to dry a bunch of immature, if pretty, buds?

I know this may be a judgement call but I figure if anyone has seen growth stop due to heat and restart after adjustment, that they might speak.

 

[joeca1i]

pics???Tents get hot fast,get a portable ac...

 

[MImedMJpatient]

pics???Tents get hot fast,get a portable ac...

The problem with that is that I find myself consistently unable to get a good look at a bud (with a photo) or a plant that is deep in the HPS light - not for lack of trying, mind you. MH or CFL yes. The plants are too bushy to move out of there, especially since I am using corners of the tents to hold up some of the plants. Methinks there is actually such thing as too many budsites.

I could supply a photo in a few hours but I think it will help little.

 

[MImedMJpatient]

pics???Tents get hot fast,get a portable ac...

I have actually been timing my lights' cooling system to go off for twenty minutes at a time to get the daytime temperature up over 72 but I think that is how they got burned. I think it is better to have lower temps than to have what looks like a toasted almond crunch from the ice cream truck. Nearly all the hairs showing are some shade of rust and the overall hue of trichs seem somewhat amber too. The buds are, right now, only five and a half weeks into 12/12 but stopped getting any bigger. They are popping male flowers up top though and I think heat has sent several into doing the same, in different tents.

Based on what I experienced, I would never suggest turning your fan off for a little at a time because in order to raise your temps a few degrees you have to bring it up, for those short durations, quite a bit higher.

 

[MImedMJpatient]

I don't think you can make the color out properly in these at all but here are a few photos.

 

[Mmmmasonite]

I think they look fine.....Just headin into late bloom.....Give em a good flush. It might be slight overnute and that is causing a little lock out.....Flush em really well for a couple days. Then start hitting them with a late bloom booster along with your normal nute regimen at lower ppms (600-700). Then slowly raise the ppms higher as the health improves to about 1000 in week 7 before last week flush....they are doin fine man, don't chop em! Have faith in your crop brother.....Peace

 

[MImedMJpatient]

They actually look better today than they did yesterday. I had plants in other tents looking singed on top colas and many were popping male flowers out the top and self-pollinating. I figure half a dozen seeds per ounce is possible from the looks of it right now.

Anyway, I saw signs of new budding today and that was my main worry. I am glad I waited, though I would not have cut them just yet anyway.

Most of my plants seem to prefer it in the low to mid seventies during the day and not the high seventies at all.

 

[Mmmmasonite]

Yeah ...sometimes reading the plants is the best way to go....What nutes are you using?

 

[Seamaiden]

Reading the plants is always the best way to go.

I have actually been timing my lights' cooling system to go off for twenty minutes at a time to get the daytime temperature up over 72 but I think that is how they got burned. I think it is better to have lower temps than to have what looks like a toasted almond crunch from the ice cream truck. Nearly all the hairs showing are some shade of rust and the overall hue of trichs seem somewhat amber too. The buds are, right now, only five and a half weeks into 12/12 but stopped getting any bigger. They are popping male flowers up top though and I think heat has sent several into doing the same, in different tents.

Based on what I experienced, I would never suggest turning your fan off for a little at a time because in order to raise your temps a few degrees you have to bring it up, for those short durations, quite a bit higher.

I can guarantee you that too cool is just as effective in shutting down growth and bud progression as too hot.

Are you certain it's heat only that's causing this? How hot did it get? Into the 90s never caused these sorts of problems for my ladies, but under 65F sure did stall them.

If they're throwing bananas don't just throw your arms up and say, "Oh well!" Get a spray bottle and tweezers and pluck the nanners and spritz the girls (the water makes the pollen unviable).

 

[MImedMJpatient]

Yeah ...sometimes reading the plants is the best way to go....What nutes are you using?

Using Sunleaves' guanos, GH's Floralicious Plus (concentrated organic enhancer), some occasional Superthrive, earthworm castings, and bee pollen..

 

[MImedMJpatient]

Reading the plants is always the best way to go.

I can guarantee you that too cool is just as effective in shutting down growth and bud progression as too hot.

Are you certain it's heat only that's causing this? How hot did it get? Into the 90s never caused these sorts of problems for my ladies, but under 65F sure did stall them.

If they're throwing bananas don't just throw your arms up and say, "Oh well!" Get a spray bottle and tweezers and pluck the nanners and spritz the girls (the water makes the pollen unviable).

So far, all the cool I experience has done, seemingly, is slow things down a bit and add some purple to some plants, and I stress seemingly. While I am not an expert, taking away some of the heat is inducing a favorable response from the ladies. Many of the buds looked a little singed on top and the hairs were starting to turn rust colored from the top down. I also have a dozen or more big colas that have shown male seeds atop and some of them have self-fertilized.

A friend suggested that what I experienced can happen when the heat goes up too rapidly from the cool time to the hot time and I DID have my fans set to not go on until the lights had been on for nearly an hour. THAT probably qualifies as a quick rise.

Incidentally, my RH is way too high too but that has been brought down to about 55 (they were operating at 70 two weeks ago). I will not, unfortunately, be able to get a dehumidifier for another couple of weeks.

BTW, thanx! I am heading to my girls right now to take your advice!

 

[Mmmmasonite]

Using Sunleaves' guanos, GH's Floralicious Plus (concentrated organic enhancer), some occasional Superthrive, earthworm castings, and bee pollen..

Huh......Bee Pollen?........What's up with that?

 

[MImedMJpatient]

Huh......Bee Pollen?........What's up with that?

Vitamins:

Provitamin A (carotenoids) 5-9 mg %
Vitamin B1 (thiamine) 9.2 micrograms %
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B3 (Niacin)
Vitamin B5 (panothenic acid)
Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) 5 micrograms %
Vitamin B12 (cyamoco balamin)
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
Vitamin D - Vitamin E
Vitamin H (biotin)
Vitamin K. Choline. Inositol
Folic Acid, 5 micrograms %
Pantothenic acid 20-50 micrograms/gram
Rutin. 16 milligrams %
Rutin in beehive pollen 13%
Vitamin PP (nicotinicamide)

Minerals:

Calcium. 1 - 15% of ash
Phosphorus 1-20% of ash
Iron, 1-12% of ash
0.01-1.3% of fresh pollen
0.6-7.1 mg % of air dried
Copper 05-08% of ash
1.1-2.1 mg % of fresh
Potassium, 20-45% of ash
Magnesium, 1-12% of ash
Manganese, 1.4% of ash, 0.75 mg %
Silica, 2-10% of ash
Sulphur, 1% of ash
Sodium - Titanium-Zinc
Iodine - Chlorine
Boron-Molydbenum

Fatty Acids (Conifer Pollen)
Total list identified are:

Caproic (C-6) - Caprylic (C-8)
Capric (C-10) - Lauric (C-12)
Myristic (C-14) - Palmitic (C-16)
Palmitoleic (C-15) one double bond
Uncowa - Stearic (C-18)
Oleic (C-18) one double bond
Linoleic (C-18) two double bonds
Arachidic (C-20) - Stearic (C-22)
Limolenic (C-18 three double bonds)
Eicosanoic (C-20 one double bond)
Brucic (C-22 one double bond)
Pseudotduga dry pollen contains
0.76-0.89 % fatty acid. Major are:
Oleic, Palmitic, Linoleic,
Pinus dry pollen contains:
125-1.33% fatty acid based on
dry weight of pollen, major are:
Linolenic, Oleic - Stearic.

Enzymes & Co-enzymes:

Disstase
Phosphatase
Amylase
Cataiase
Saccharase
Diaphorase
Pectase
Cozymase
Cytochrome systems
Lactic dehydrogenase
Succinic dehydrogenase

Note: The cozymase in mixed fresh pollen runs about 0.5-1 .0 milligram per gram. comparable to the amounts in yeast. (Bee pollen contains all known enzymes & co-enzymes and probably all that will be known in the future.)

Proteins, Globulins, Peptones, and Amino Acids:

7-35%. average 20%: 40-50%
may be free amino acids: 10-13% consists
of amino acids in dry pollen.
35 grams of pollen per day can satisfy the
protein requirements of man. 25 grams of
pollen per day can sustain man because it
contains 6.35 grams as indicated by Rose.
Plus other amino acids.

Carbohydrates:

Gums - Pentosans - Cellulose Sporonine
(7-57% of pollen of various species:
29% in bee collected.)
Starch (0-22% of pollen)
Total sugars (30-40%)
Sucrose or cane sugar
Levulose or fruit sugar / fructose
Glucose or grape sugar
Reducing sugars (0.1-19%)
Bee-collected: Non-reducing sugar 2.71%.
Reducing: 18.82-41.21% Mean. 25.71%

Pollen contains the same number of amino acids, but vary greatly in quantity of each:
Tryptophan 1.6% - Leucine 5.6% Lysine 5.7% - Isoleucine 4.7% Methionine 1.7% - Cystine 0.6% Thresonine 4.6% - Arginine 4.7% Phenylalanine 3.5% - Histidine 1.5% Valine 6.0% - Glutamic acid 2.1% Tyrosine - Glycine - Serine - Proline - Alanine - Aspartic acid Hydroxyproline - Butyric Acid.

 

[Mmmmasonite]

Wow.....that is very informative. Thanx

 

[Mmmmasonite]

There is a foliar product called Reverse by dutch masters that reverses the hermie problem. Knew a guy that used it in a very big garden and it saved his crop.