Now i use green cure as a preventive instead of eagle20e unless OD season . Now what i would do is remove all obvious infections and apply lowest dose of greencure
a guy on anther board made a good point but i do-not want to apply any links
"I had had varying degrees of success with greencure.It has both worked, and ruined crops.
The reasons it worked, I believe was that we applied the greencure BEFORE the botrytis was present.Plus I was in a very dry climate, no rain from May till Oct. Greencure does great in a dry environment.
Now, Greencure has also ruined a bunch of crops. More than once.
One time we sprayed, it actually gave the whole crop botrytis The nugs were mold free, then after soaking them with green cure, within 2 days the we had ruined plants that molded out. Only the plants we did not spray were mold free.
Another time, we saw some mold and sprayed, Nada, nothing, just accelerated how fast the plant went to shit. As misleading as the name is, its NOT A CURE. It's a preventitive measure, not a cure.
If your gonna use greeencure, you must spray BEFORE mold takes hold, otherwise those sopping wet, soaked nugs will be molded out faster than you can say "OH SHIT!!!"
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck, and may the force be with you
"
anther posters with a different product I had a friend recommend who claims amazing results and this user also made great points and you should read this as well:
"
bud rot is a fucking killer.
along with root rot it's been the bane of my existence as a grower.
i've tried a few things with varying success.
my favorite—and nobody ever talks about it— is bayer flint. it's the only systemic i know of that works against botrytis. it'll give you about 50 days of protection so use it before you flip. it's a chemical, so treat it with respect, but it's relatively safe. approved for agricultural use. not acutely toxic. no known carcinogenic or mutagenic properties.
the shit is pretty expensive, but it's a lot cheaper than a crop failure.
it's also indicated for powdery mildew.
and a couple dozen other things, most of which don't concern us:
Anthracnose
Blight, Early
Blight, Late
Blight, Leaf
Blight, Phomopsis Leaf
Blight, Plectosporium
Blotch, Sooty
Downy Mildew
Flyspeck
Mold, Gray
Powdery Mildew
Rot, Bitter
Rot, Black
Rot, Botrytis Bunch
Rot, Phomopsis Soft
Rot, Sclerotinia
Rot, White
Rust
Rust, Cedar Apple
Scab
Spot, Alternaria Leaf
Spot, Gray Leaf
Spot, Leaf
Spot, Phomopsis Cane
Spot, Phomopsis Leaf
Spot, Septoria Leaf
Spot, Stemphylium Purple
actinovate is the very only thing i'd spray if mold is already present. it's a decent product that saved my ass. i have used it on the day of harvest on the handful of flowers i salvaged out of a room that was ravaged by mold. and the stuff actually worked.
green cure burns plants and actually accelerates mold growth if you've already got a problem.
serenade smells like dead things and doesn't work well.
for thems that's got bud rot already, nothing's gonna get it off those plants. you may be able to slow it long enough not to lose the whole damn thing though. first thing is to get the bad shit gone without spreading it. here's the protocol an og gave me that i've posted a couple times. it's a pain in the arse, but it works.
Quote:
1. remove any infected material. the best thing to do is to chop the whole plant that is affected. don't just hack it down though. the spores are microscopic and will spread like wildfire. first, wet down any fuzzy parts with alcohol to keep the spores from becoming airborne. next put a trash bag over the plant in question before you cut it down. now get that thing out of your room, your house, your property. i would not advise it, but if for some reason you cannot or will not scrap the whole plant, do the same technique for any infected branch. cut it at least 6 inches from where you can see mold. wipe the stem with alcohol. again, this is inadvisable because botrytis is growing inside the flower before you can ever see it. if you see it one place on a plant, it's probably everywhere. that one dry sugar leaf may be the only telltale sign.
2.wash those clothes in hot water and borax before you wear them back in your garden.
3. keep your room as dry as possible. crank the dehumidifiers. let it get warm in there too. botrytis won't grow above 80° F. most folks would tell you not to spray anything at all. i would only recommend spraying actinovate. it's a biological fungicide that you can use up unti the day of harvest. it's clear and odorless. doesn't smell like shit like serenade does. it won't burn your flowers like green cure will either. you can pick up a pouch for less than $20.
4. keep a close eye on things. if you blink, it's liable to sweep through the whole room.
5. finish as quickly as possible. it sounds like you're almost done anyway so there's probably no need to flash ripen. as for the flush, get it done fast. use a leaching solution like florakleen or clearex. it'll speed things up considerably. cut your two week flush down to four or five days. it might not be ideal, but better to harvest slightly less than perfect flowers than to harvest a bunch of moldy rotted out colas.
6. just because you've cut your plants down doesn't mean the mold stops growing. be especially careful not to contaminate anything while drying and curing.
7. scrub the fuck out of everything in between grows.use physan for washing and a good fogger like fungaflor to make sure you've gotten everything.
