gardnguyahoy
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For the enzymes, I was meaning (if you use) something like hygrozyme or (from what I understand) more preferably Slf100. As far as switching nutes "mid grow"; if your still in vegetative state then it's not too scary to switch nutes. I wouldn't recommend switching nutes in mid flower unless there's some confidence in the change.
@NaturalTherapy Looking good!!! I'd probably try pheno 2 first. ;)
@SeaF0ur Cool thanks for the quick tips there!! I would like something a bit larger than the root riot and that idea of taking a corner to fill the hole; is a keeper there.
@MrBelvedere Thanks for the tips with the rockwool! I wasn't sure if I needed to do some advanced pre-treatment or the like. Thanks also for reminding about squeezing, doubt I would've but least now I know i won't, heh.
As far as dome / no dome isn't going to be the test really though. This experiment will be to see if the jeln plugs or rockwool work well in my "bubbler" method; instead of the peat/ coir I've used over the years.
I guess I always say it's a bubbler but it's not in the truest sense. Basically, my bubbler setup has (currently) 2" net pots with peat / coir suspended above a water volume with aeration. The water level is low enough that there is NO direct interaction with water and net pots (water level nor bubbles). The only function of the water itself is, so when roots are formed out of the net pots; they have somewhere to "head" and get nutes. I keep the water around 0.5-0.6 EC with an npk of 50-15-30 (appx).
The MAIN reason to have the setup like this, is that the whole unit is sealed except for the net pots. I have appx. 0.4 Liters per minute (on average) of air that goes through each pot. The idea is to prevent stagnation in medium, maintain moisture, provide humidity to leaf surfaces and maintain oxygen in the water. Outside of this, it would probably be closest to a standard "tray" cutting method.
@shemshemet There are only a few MFG's of the 315's atm. I believe the higher pricing on this size is related to the "niche" ballast requirement. I believe that all the MFG's use the philips mastercolor bulb.
@Lazerus00 & @gardnguyahoy both Seaf0our and FlyinJstable talked about the CMH's a while back. They are both using "conversion" CMH bulbs instead of the "315". The conversion seems like a good way to do CMH for cheap if you have the ballasts already. There is no "common' ballast that will run the 315w size. I'll reply to those posts for anyone who may want.
On this point @SeaF0ur This bulb was intended as a conversion and I'm not so sure that it will be drawing much "extra" wattage. A 1000w MH runs 263v @ 4.1A. The 860 there runs at 248V @ 4.24A. I would imagine the transformer should have no issues supplying 4.24A and would also expect that the output voltage would be "pulled down" close to the 248 as a result. I bet if you check the wattage draw, that it will not be too far outside of the 860 range.
Here's a .PDF from philips for that bulb. It is also a straight-up conversion....but for HPS.
If you look in the .PDF (page 2 ordering info); you can see the required ballasts for that bulb. S51 or M168.
Here's a page with the ANSI codes for ballasts: http://www.kolmart.com/HID-ANSI-Code-Guide_b_3.html
If you look at the 400w HPS ballast, it is an ANSI S51.
Oh right, my bad. I meant to say that. Solid state ballast. Lol
I need this thing in my life in the next few days, and i dont want to grab the wrong one. So its NOT the 315. Its the standard 400w cmh conversion bulb for 400w hps (aka. ANSI s51) ballast ?
