Junk
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I think you are over thinking it. Just filter the hell out of it, no? If you are getting smell in the cars, the filtration is either not sufficient, or the setup is leaky.
I've been gardening other crops outside for decades & when I started this I noticed a massive difference. Because 1. It's inside 2. It's much smellier. So people can walk into your house, & tell what you are growing just by the smell of your house.
The only way I found to combat it was by sealing everything up, air tight. Tents don't even cut it for me. Minor light leaks, and certainly not air tight.
So, if you use white visqueen plastic, 4 zip wall poles, & aluminum duct tape you can seal it up completely. The aluminum tape allows you to seal up the plastic to each other, the floor & ceiling. It will stick to clean concrete (almost anything that's clean) That is how I run co2. Do a good job & it will be absolutely air tight.
But you don't need to run co2....when I turn my fan on the whole tent starts to suck in, or blow up like a balloon depending on the direction. It will be so tight that if you have a really strong 8" fan, the walls will start to rip up the tape on the floor. If you get it that air tight (pretty easy to do) Nothing can leak out. You can pick up light proof zippers that attach to the plastic, like this
http://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Replac...1451304073&sr=8-1&keywords=light+proof+zipper
I get mine at my hydro shop though. So I can't attest to how sticky the above ones are. The ones I get at my local shop are light proof, & sticky as anything. I can get the name of the brand if you want. Inside my room, even with the lights outside the room on, is totally & completely black. If it doesn't let light in, only a tiny amount of air will pass through it. I will tell you to be careful when you apply them. You only get one shot, because once it's been stuck to something, that's it. If you let it stick to itself, it's no good anymore. So it has to be put on carefully. I use a level to draw a line so I mount it straight. Some packs of them come with a cutter for the plastic. If you can...get that. After you stick the zipper on nice & straight, & get it really stuck on there good, you unzip the zipper & use that cutting tool to make a perfect cut for the zippers. Then press the zipper on tight again. So if you get that zipper cutter, you use it after you have applied the zippers, not before. If you cut it before, you will never get the zipper on perfectly.
So once you have it like that, any holes you need to make in the plastic, make them 2" smaller than needed. E.g. if you have 8" ducting coming in, cut a perfectly round 6" hole & "thread" the duct work in. If you use solid duct, you do the same thing but can't "thread" it in, & the hole will have to be a little closer to the size of the duct. Flexible ductwork obviously has more give than solid. The plastic will stretch around whatever you are inserting. So, as long as you cut the hole perfectly round, but too small, it will fit air tight.
Now your only problem is filtration & when you actually open the tent. You know how to handle filtration. & I can't imagine the amount that would come out of the tent from you opening & closing the tent would be enough to cause a problem. But if it's that bad, create negative air pressure each time you pop in & out of the tent & you will minimize that.
It's pretty easy. & if you are in a tent right now, the difference is night & day. A factory tent can be tight enough to run co2...so it "seals" in that way, but it's not even close to air tight. Odor travels through the air, so if you make it air tight, odor can't get out.
A friend of mine once farted in a mason jar & sealed it up. Teenage boys huh...those were the days. Anyway, opened it up like a month later, & it still smelled like a fart. (I apologize in advance to the ladies on the board, but teenage boys just do that kind of stuff) If you make it air tight, odor cannot escape. Then get your filtration working optimally. After that, I can't imagine the problem would be big enough to be of concern.
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