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Air Cool Cmh Bulbs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter heisen
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Air Cool Cmh Bulbs?

heisen 95 Replies 11,709 Views
Page 4 of 5 · Replies 61–80 of 96
#61
You may be able to call your local residential or commercial glass/window company. Tell them what size glass, and thickness and tempered glass. NOT RAW GLASS!!! I'll give one a call tomorrow if u have time.
 
#63
jumpincactus said:
Ive been waiting for someone to mfgr a ac hood plate glass in low iron glass like they do for reef tanks. Low iron glass allows more of the needed uv and par to hit the plants while staying with a ac hood. Far as I know the only low iron glass used in horticulture is solistek uses it in it s 10,000 k MH finishing bulb.
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I guess we could just have it cut and put it in the frame like any glass.
 
#64
MIMedGrower said:
Here is the description of the bulb. It says low iron or (low e) glass.

I was mistaken when I said lead. I meant iron.

But I do not know much about glass. I have now read your links.



Have not found it in my reflector. I am wrong about the glass there.

i should not have posted so hastily.
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I actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.
Those finishing solistek 10k lamps are killer. Ive finished last two weeks with one on my orange cookie that normally takes 10-11 weeks and it looked done at 9 weeks. More purple, more frosty, more greasy to boot only drawback is it burned out on me after about 3 months worth of use( I tried using it for veg). I've tried a 20k coral mh too with good results but I think it's almost too much UV it fries leaves if you're not careful. Those hort blues you have make great finishing bulbs too churning out some decent UV and they have an even higher CRI than cmh at 95. Only trouble is they're so expensive and Hortilux says to change em out at 6 months! Yet another big advantage to the cmh much much longer bulb life.
The cmh bulbs are easier to cool than HPS because there's a lower percentage of infrared light in the spectrum, which is also why they're more efficient. Infrared is useful for plant processes but the balance of infrared to other usable wavelengths is way off what plants evolved to use. So your plants will actually use a higher percentage of the energy you're throwing at them rather than a good portion of that energy simply heating your room as with HPS. All the light energy your plant doesn't use regardless of spectrum will ultimately get converted into heat. That's why the spectrum balance is so important for efficiency because you want it to use everything you throw at it.....
Found this http://images.philips.com/is/conten..._AA-Philips_LED_Toplighting_2015Nov_FINAL.pdf.
on Philips site it compares their LEDs to DE HPS scroll down it shows the energy output breakdown. Interesting to note the TOTAL heat per watt isn't too much more with HPS. I'm trying to find one comparing Cmh to HPS....

I bet that low iron glass is expensive.....
 
#65
PharmHand said:
I actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.
Those finishing solistek 10k lamps are killer. Ive finished last two weeks with one on my orange cookie that normally takes 10-11 weeks and it looked done at 9 weeks. More purple, more frosty, more greasy to boot only drawback is it burned out on me after about 3 months worth of use( I tried using it for veg). I've tried a 20k coral mh too with good results but I think it's almost too much UV it fries leaves if you're not careful. Those hort blues you have make great finishing bulbs too churning out some decent UV and they have an even higher CRI than cmh at 95. Only trouble is they're so expensive and Hortilux says to change em out at 6 months! Yet another big advantage to the cmh much much longer bulb life.
The cmh bulbs are easier to cool than HPS because there's a lower percentage of infrared light in the spectrum, which is also why they're more efficient. Infrared is useful for plant processes but the balance of infrared to other usable wavelengths is way off what plants evolved to use. So your plants will actually use a higher percentage of the energy you're throwing at them rather than a good portion of that energy simply heating your room as with HPS. All the light energy your plant doesn't use regardless of spectrum will ultimately get converted into heat. That's why the spectrum balance is so important for efficiency because you want it to use everything you throw at it.....
Found this http://images.philips.com/is/conten..._AA-Philips_LED_Toplighting_2015Nov_FINAL.pdf.
on Philips site it compares their LEDs to DE HPS scroll down it shows the energy output breakdown. Interesting to note the TOTAL heat per watt isn't too much more with HPS. I'm trying to find one comparing Cmh to HPS....

I bet that low iron glass is expensive.....
Click to expand...


You sure know your info!

I was using a 315lec but I am going to set it up in a veg tent to see how that goes for the summer.

So I put my blue and Super hps in the 2 air cooled lamps I started with for the most usable plant light I can get.

I can already see maybe even more frost finishing under it than the 315.

That is why I want to know about transition through the glass.

As I understand it. And have not found a link confirming but learned it in the car business. It is the angle through the glass that inhibits the uv.

So I thought since I use direct down reflectors not made to spread out the light I may be getting more uv to the canopy.

My results show I am benefiting from the uv from the MH compared to HPS behind the glass only.
 
#66
PharmHand said:
I actually learned a lot looking into all this too:) I won't lie I'm kind of a nerd,I love this shit haha.
Those finishing solistek 10k lamps are killer. Ive finished last two weeks with one on my orange cookie that normally takes 10-11 weeks and it looked done at 9 weeks. More purple, more frosty, more greasy to boot only drawback is it burned out on me after about 3 months worth of use( I tried using it for veg). I've tried a 20k coral mh too with good results but I think it's almost too much UV it fries leaves if you're not careful. Those hort blues you have make great finishing bulbs too churning out some decent UV and they have an even higher CRI than cmh at 95. Only trouble is they're so expensive and Hortilux says to change em out at 6 months! Yet another big advantage to the cmh much much longer bulb life.
The cmh bulbs are easier to cool than HPS because there's a lower percentage of infrared light in the spectrum, which is also why they're more efficient. Infrared is useful for plant processes but the balance of infrared to other usable wavelengths is way off what plants evolved to use. So your plants will actually use a higher percentage of the energy you're throwing at them rather than a good portion of that energy simply heating your room as with HPS. All the light energy your plant doesn't use regardless of spectrum will ultimately get converted into heat. That's why the spectrum balance is so important for efficiency because you want it to use everything you throw at it.....
Found this http://images.philips.com/is/conten..._AA-Philips_LED_Toplighting_2015Nov_FINAL.pdf.
on Philips site it compares their LEDs to DE HPS scroll down it shows the energy output breakdown. Interesting to note the TOTAL heat per watt isn't too much more with HPS. I'm trying to find one comparing Cmh to HPS....

I bet that low iron glass is expensive.....
Click to expand...
Actinic lights have been used for a while now... its good stuff and sometime more affordable than replacing ballasts and buying expensive 100 dollar blue bulbs
 
#67
Cmh hoods,

There is a vertical bare bulb hood that is air cooled because the center of the hood is hollow and air passes through the hood never touching the bulb. The hood is a heat sink.

You can use any hood that are used and have been for years. If you have a big ass hood you may get 2 in a hood if your crafty.

Be sure your bulb is intended to be used horizontal or vertical. Spend the money on good bulbs because the features you need are probably built in.
If you have a closet just toss the hoods away run them bare bulb. Cmh at most I have read is a 30" square of prime area by itself. The side lighting and over lap is the sweet spots.

Ballast for Chm must be square wave. You cannot use a normal digital ballast to fire the bulb correctly.

You can use any mogul lighting cord but you need a adapter to run a Chm bulb. They are cheap.

Why I am so curious vert is that my last run I had 3 foot non trained plants 8 inches from the bare bulb by week 5. Cmh hoping for 6 inches. I will use a 12 inch cage around my bare bulb stack, look me up in Sept will know more.
 
#68
man all of this is good stuff
Got my bulbs and ballast today.I scrapped the hoods and just went and got a couple of wing reflectors on a hope and a prayer.Man these lights are sweet as hell.They blow my 600W HID out of the water.they make my 600W look like a 400 watt no joke.
No need to air cool whatsoever.they are about as warm as the 8 bulb t5 i had in there before these.Now i will say there are certain hot spots up top close to the bulbs but thats it.I really like the clarity and spectrum of these bulbs and without touching the AC the thermometer on the wall is 1 degree lower now than when i had the T5.Im going to get rid of the 8 inch raptor in there where i have the 600W HPS/HID and go with 2 more of these.The guy at the hydro shop is all about growing tai basil.He had 2 under one 315 and said he has never had growth indoors the way he did with the 315.these plants are 10 days old today so im gonna see how this turns out.
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#69
heisenbubble said:
man all of this is good stuff
Got my bulbs and ballast today.I scrapped the hoods and just went and got a couple of wing reflectors on a hope and a prayer.Man these lights are sweet as hell.They blow my 600W HID out of the water.they make my 600W look like a 400 watt no joke.
No need to air cool whatsoever.they are about as warm as the 8 bulb t5 i had in there before these.Now i will say there are certain hot spots up top close to the bulbs but thats it.I really like the clarity and spectrum of these bulbs and without touching the AC the thermometer on the wall is 1 degree lower now than when i had the T5.Im going to get rid of the 8 inch raptor in there where i have the 600W HPS/HID and go with 2 more of these.The guy at the hydro shop is all about growing tai basil.He had 2 under one 315 and said he has never had growth indoors the way he did with the 315.these plants are 10 days old today so im gonna see how this turns out.
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View attachment 703314
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That looks great!
 
#70
Man im loving these lights.Growth is noticeably fast.I don't
know if its as fast as what i normally use but it kinda seems like it.Ill know in a week if they are and ill know about 3 weeks into flower if i really like them more.Ill post an update here in case anyone else reads this or finds this thread and is curious how things turned out.

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#71
I LOVE these lights.
these are plants are 15 days old from sprout and the growth and health im getting is kicking the shit out my 1000W HIDS.hands down 600WHID is no comparison.this is nuts.


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#72
I cannot believe there isnt more info on these bulbs and lights.Its crazy to me that there arent that many availble ballast or hoods or bulbs for them.
 
#73
heisenbubble said:
I cannot believe there isnt more info on these bulbs and lights.Its crazy to me that there arent that many availble ballast or hoods or bulbs for them.
Click to expand...

Im excited to try mine to veg with after seeing your results. Only dirt in 3 gal. pots but wow! Serious growth there.

I may stop the perpetual in a few more months and I will grow and flower out the last plant right in the 3x3 under the Philips 3100k bulb to see what a full run can do under the 315.
 
#74
yeah man and the heat is not that bad at all.I could see if someone did not have ac them being an issue but my AC works less as hard with these.I have a 1000 in the back air colled thats putting off way more heat than these in a cooled hood
 
#75
heisenbubble said:
yeah man and the heat is not that bad at all.I could see if someone did not have ac them being an issue but my AC works less as hard with these.I have a 1000 in the back air colled thats putting off way more heat than these in a cooled hood
Click to expand...

My comparisons are with my air cooled 600's and the open 315 and they are about the same really. I only need a fan between the reflector and plants with the 315 and the room exhaust takes care of it fine.
 
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