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Led's ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter hawkman
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Led's ??

hawkman 234 Replies 21,253 Views
Page 2 of 12 · Replies 21–40 of 235
#22
hawkman said:
cob are a bit expensive looking at a 3 by 3 space
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In my opinion there is no better value than these galaxyhydro. You might find something a little bit cheaper but at least with galaxyhydro if you have a problem you are covered they have great customer service and they back their warranty.
 
#23
JakeyBakey said:
2 600's in a 3x3 ?
Too much heat for sure if tent is closed, even w/exhaust
Start with one panel I would add
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You are right though pushing that much in a tent could be a heat problem. Two 300s would be sufficient I always like to use smaller units instead of one big one. Down the road you can always break them up and use them in other places.
 
#25
dnewsome2 said:
All depends on your environment and ventilation system 3 watt LEDs produce less Heat.
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yup you are correct........ less watts = less heat

when comparing any lighting fixture, be it legacy HID, cfl, hps/mh, you always factor 3.41 btu per watt. Doesnt matter if its led or not, a watt out of the wall creates 3.41 btu of thermal heat load. watt for watt light type x lite type

Here is a calculator
 
#26
hawkman said:
wanting to up-grade lighting . ant information on LED would be helpful. Kind Led's look (k3 - L450) - the Virspectrue (misspelled) has a 400watt veg/bloom, there are other Mars, Cob ???please help
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check out the led forum threads.......... https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/forums/l-e-d-grow-lights.137/

Also when selecting your led keep in mind heat is the enemy. And if the light selected doesnt deal with the heat load index with a good active or passive heat sink to draw the heat away from the chip set/board you will have early failure of the circuitry. Remember you get what you pay for, cheaper isnt always better when dealing with a high dollar crop.

Someone earlier mentioned that PAR and the other specs arent important and I would have to disagree with that statement. Give me a 6 x 6 tent and some cheap chinese knockoffs and then give me the same tent with a Fluence SpyderXplus and I will slay whatever strain you throw at the setup with better yields, colors, potency and terpene profiles and taste.

Always support american made and stop funding the chinese economy.
 
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#27
jumpincactus said:
when comparing any lighting fixture, be it legacy HID, cfl, hps/mh, you always factor 3.41 btu per watt. Doesnt matter if its led or not, a watt out of the wall creates 3.41 btu of thermal heat load. watt for watt light type x lite type

Here is a calculator
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Sure,
all fixtures deliver the heat out different
a 400watt Led panel with heat sinks and internal fans ... theres the difference :)
 
#28
jumpincactus said:
yup you are correct........ less watts = less heat

when comparing any lighting fixture, be it legacy HID, cfl, hps/mh, you always factor 3.41 btu per watt. Doesnt matter if its led or not, a watt out of the wall creates 3.41 btu of thermal heat load. watt for watt light type x lite type

Here is a calculator
Click to expand...
jumpincactus said:
check out the led forum threads.......... https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/forums/l-e-d-grow-lights.137/
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As far as I understand it a 3 watt is more energy efficient. What I mean by efficiency as far as heat and electricity would be LEDs that are emitting unusable light.
 
#29
All I am trying to get across is this. Each to their own and budgetary limits. But the guys spending the dinero upfront for cutting edge LED tech are the ones really slaying it with cannabis.
 
#31
jumpincactus said:
yup you are correct........ less watts = less heat

when comparing any lighting fixture, be it legacy HID, cfl, hps/mh, you always factor 3.41 btu per watt. Doesnt matter if its led or not, a watt out of the wall creates 3.41 btu of thermal heat load. watt for watt light type x lite type

Here is a calculator
Click to expand...
That's why I consider cobs not to be efficient. Although they are Kick-Ass they are not the most efficient option as far as heat and electricity.
 
#33
dnewsome2 said:
That's why I consider cobs not to be efficient. Although they are Kick-Ass they are not the most efficient option as far as heat and electricity.
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And there is some data coming in that chip on board (cobs) will start failing due to the heat load and frying the boards. It is a well known fact that the led industry hasnt yet figured out how to effectively deal with the heat generated with cob. Check out LED magazine lots of great data and write-ups there if your into led tech.
 
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#34
jumpincactus said:
And there is some data coming in that chip on board (cobs) will start failing due to the heat load and frying the boards. It is a well known fact that the led industry hasnt yet figured out how to effectively deal with the heat generated with cob. Check out LEG magazine lots of great data and write-ups there if your into led tech.
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Thank you for that - im building cob unit as we speak
All the new info helps
 
#35
jumpincactus said:
And there is some data coming in that chip on board (cobs) will start failing due to the heat load and frying the boards. It is a well known fact that the led industry hasnt yet figured out how to effectively deal with the heat generated with cob. Check out LEG magazine lots of great data and write-ups there if your into led tech.
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I agree. I have a cob and I made sure it was active. I think those guys running non-active cobs are just going to fry their shit early
 
#36
Heres a great article from led mfgrs about the issues heat is posing. Ironic when you think back that less heat was the main selling point when leds came online.
 
#37
dnewsome2 said:
I agree. I have a cob and I made sure it was active. I think those guys running non-active cobs are just going to fry their shit early
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I would have to agree. Until the industry figures a way to manage thermal stress I dont think service life will match what we are being told we can expect 30,000-50,000 hrs
 
#39
dnewsome2 said:
That's why I consider cobs not to be efficient. Although they are Kick-Ass they are not the most efficient option as far as heat and electricity.
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And honestly led is still not very efficient as it can someday be. Although it is more efficient than other forms of lighting. Here is why I say this,

A modern, good-quality, high-brightness LED (HB LED) has an efficiency of around 45%. While this might not seem particularly impressive, when you compare it to a tungsten bulb, which has an efficiency below 5%, you can see that LEDs show a huge improvement. Another way of expressing efficiency is in efficacy or lumens per watt (lm/W). HB LEDs in volume production easily achieve 150 lm/W, and the industry has a roadmap to reach 200 lm/W by 2020. This may well be achieved as research and development devices exist that exceed 300 lm/W.

The problem with LEDs is the electrical energy that is not converted to photons is converted to heat. Put simply, in operation LEDs get hot. Heat and LEDs are not good bedfellows. Heat reduces the efficiency of LEDs, so less light is produced. This effect escalates, leading to catastrophic failure. Some heat is tolerable, but operation of the semiconductor much above 100°C noticeably reduces the quality of the light produced and triggers a variety of wear-out mechanisms that considerably shorten the life of an LED bulb.

Because the operating temperature of LEDs needs to be relatively close to ambient, the only effective means for removing heat is by conduction. The upshot of this is that HB LEDs need to be attached to a type of circuit board that is specially engineered to transport heat by conduction through to a heat sink. The various circuit board types are known by names including insulated metal substrates (IMS), metal core or clad printed-circuit boards (MCPCBs), and metal-in-board printed circuit boards (MIB PCBs).
 
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