Calling Out The Organic Growing Machines

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Organikz

Organikz

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brazel said:
Those are good, but you're gonna need a lot more than that to turn clay into a proper soil... good thing clay has lots of things plants crave in it!
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You're right. I think mixing pine bark mulch fines would help to build a great tilth. I know a lot of growers that do a few run with it as partial aeration. Then they retill once with proper aeration.
 
Organikz

Organikz

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I'm feeling lonely. Please share your babies. I don't think you guys are understanding you're the last stitch holding me here and not going back to grass city organics only. No offense but they use agricultural universities as sources of info...not high times and high yield. I'm still active there. I definitely love talking with all the no till gardeners. They have threads with over 5000 pages of discussions along with answers to any questions that were started by MoFo, bluejay, and lumperdawgs2 (coot)

Some guys have made quick reference notes and recipe compilations which is literally going to have the answer to any questions because they are bookmarked Q&A with coot and his amigos.

No need to even post questions. I only had to use the search function for any question. Organics is king there. The hydro growers are extremely cool and we all get along. Tbone shuffle is the best hydro grower hands down. He runs bloom nutes from start to finish. His stems are always looking like if 1 more hair sprouted theyd snap.

Some good ole boys along with some "blades" (the British term for homies).

They would have a field day here. I fight my own battles with false comments and I don't tag people in for help because if you have knowledge you have power. I only need my knowledge not a hyena pack to pick at the lion. Haha

Bring all the hyenas you want to sneak shots. I'm leaving with the kill.

Peanut galleries who obviously have 0 understanding of the argument. When you ask for their input they disappear.
 
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Organikz

Organikz

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@oldskol4evr
They sell a product called perma-till. It's just black slate pieces like maybe a 1/4" at most. dude a 1cF bag is like cheat as fuck. i'm thinking about it. slate has a ridiculous CEC. Another one is grow stones but not pebbles...stones. They're 1/4-3/8 inch. I swear if you just tilled once with some pine bark fines and this stuff and maybe a bit of play sand as alan mentioned you'd have a nice airy soil.

i love burying lump charchoal also. i bust it up a little. as long as there's nothing bigger than 1.5" going in i don't mind.

I know everyone says you should charge with em1 but the way i learned is totally different. i either just mix uncharged in the mix and then i understand teas will be necessary or i bust the charcoal myself and mix with compost. i don't care about dust because i mix i just take the busted charcoal and put it in a sandbag and dump enough compost/ewc mix to just cover it all up shaking to mix it in for surface contact. i let that sit for 2 weeks after adding a little water and swaling the bag. i built some multi size screens from rabbit fence material and what have you. you can even use 1 size and just kind of overlap in basket patterns to make smaller holes. sift all the compost out and throw it back in the compost pile and what yo have in your sifter is charged biochar...just another product to save some loot.

i know saving money is always good. you know me...just want to help and i understand if you'd prefer innoculants. i saw a guys recently pushing azos. I explained that azos is naturally occuring in compost as well as mycos. put rice in the mix if you don't believe me lol.

i'm going to be making sequestered carbon from rice hulls. i'll show you guys. it's the best sequestered carbon for surface contact without clogging up your soi with dust...lol
 
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Organikz

Organikz

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Can I explain the lion comment not to be egotistical but that's what some of these fight remind me of. I see it with other guys. They all gang up like wild dogs and all run in sneak a nip and retreat.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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Organikz said:
@oldskol4evr
They sell a product called perma-till. It's just black slate pieces like maybe a 1/4" at most. dude a 1cF bag is like cheat as fuck. i'm thinking about it. slate has a ridiculous CEC. Another one is grow stones but not pebbles...stones. They're 1/4-3/8 inch. I swear if you just tilled once with some pine bark fines and this stuff and maybe a bit of play sand as alan mentioned you'd have a nice airy soil.

i love burying lump charchoal also. i bust it up a little. as long as there's nothing bigger than 1.5" going in i don't mind.

I know everyone says you should charge with em1 but the way i learned is totally different. i either just mix uncharged in the mix and then i understand teas will be necessary or i bust the charcoal myself and mix with compost. i don't care about dust because i mix i just take the busted charcoal and put it in a sandbag and dump enough compost/ewc mix to just cover it all up shaking to mix it in for surface contact. i let that sit for 2 weeks after adding a little water and swaling the bag. i built some multi size screens from rabbit fence material and what have you. you can even use 1 size and just kind of overlap in basket patterns to make smaller holes. sift all the compost out and throw it back in the compost pile and what yo have in your sifter is charged biochar...just another product to save some loot.

i know saving money is always good. you know me...just want to help and i understand if you'd prefer innoculants. i saw a guys recently pushing azos. I explained that azos is naturally occuring in compost as well as mycos. put rice in the mix if you don't believe me lol.

i'm going to be making sequestered carbon from rice hulls. i'll show you guys. it's the best sequestered carbon for surface contact without clogging up your soi with dust...lol
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,ya this spot been like this for several years ,this is just the first turn and chop,what ive always done in the past is move in about a ton of mushroom compost,about 1/2 ton of course sand for air,and a ton of lime,breaks it up real good just takes a bit longer,,my old back wasnt old back then though,lmao
 
Organikz

Organikz

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263
oldskol4evr said:
,ya this spot been like this for several years ,this is just the first turn and chop,what ive always done in the past is move in about a ton of mushroom compost,about 1/2 ton of course sand for air,and a ton of lime,breaks it up real good just takes a bit longer,,my old back wasnt old back then though,lmao
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yeah lol with the pine it will tend to pull a little extra nitrogen so some alfalfa tea might be in order. But in 1 year you'll have no till quality soil...i'm talking like fluff and worm casting poop balls. lol
 
Organikz

Organikz

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@brazel convinced me to order some of coot genetics from swami organic seeds.
I donated for a 15 pack. Good prices.
'The Yogi' - The One x The Black/NL5haze

"The One" is Agnes cut. Kandahar 73x Thai stick 76

I'll be smoking genetics that @oldskol4evr was smoking in his Wildman days haha
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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brazel said:

I understand the sand part but I'd skip it.
It's true, a lot of people follow that but when making cement what do you add to it sand. Ok maybe that wasn't the best comparison.
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Limestone, water? unless you are making road asphalt
stop overloading your CEC, stop tilling, stop driving tanks over the top and you will stop getting an issue with compaction. there are many types of sand. coated, non coated, paramagnetic and so on, depends what you want to achieve there are a great deal of differences in how they are managed.
I recommend Mycorrhizae in clays.., also gypsum, humates, manures
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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Organikz said:
I see what you mean. Carbon. That's what I'm thinking. Look at how much carbon is attached to a terpene molecule. So this is bud candy secret...sorry I'm just thinking forcing a plant to uptake a combo of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen....you are making it breathe from the inside. Increasing carbon fixation?
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combinations of organic acids and non plant related proteins tend to be the triggers for our plant defense. Certain organic acids are used by plants to prime tissues for defense, many of these OA's are innate characters of soil yeasts like Mycorrhizae, such as salicylic acid and jasmonic acid and are a critical part of balance between AMF and any host and are used by plants as a Growth Hormone and or to interact with Auxins for example. Lots of research still needs to be done since interactions across plants are almost as diverse as the numbers of plants themselves.

Tannins are linked to human headaches and feelings of sickness. I suspect CBN has higher levels of tannins associated with the continuing degradation of more valuable isomers through excess ETR1 as plants over ripen. Interestingly this ethylene accumulation which always occurs at the end of a plants cycle has a similar negative response to a-piene which also blocks biological nitrification processes in the soil. So our plants not only die through excessive ethylene but also through a lack of access to Nitrogen as soil biome communications become disrupted

Soil-phenotyping may provide us with answers ahead of planting, as to the true potential of any system. i am pleased to see this gaining some traction.
 
U

UnBottle

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Organikz said:
i just know alcohol can kill a plant quickly. Not good for microbial life either. It just scares me. But maybe it's my ignorance.
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It sure can, but alcohols COME from microbial life. Things stop further fermenting when yeast "maxes out", whether running out of sugars, which can kill weak yeasts easily, but the hardier wild yeasts keep on multiplying for years at even ~10% ethanol, slowly driving that number up, until it runs out of sugars, or gets around twice that strength when making liquor.

I spray D-Limonene in 190 Everclear (Literally a spritz or two on stalks) on bait plants*, so that it evaporates quickly, very sticky stuff and very pungent drawing more ladybugs, hummingbirds, butterflies, Dr. Bronnner's Peppermint and Hemp Tea Tree soap as a mite killer/prevention, the mint kills mites/insects and the tea tree oil is a STRONG antimicrobial and antifungal, antibacterial. Fortunately, it's very PH neutral. Also fortunately, I wash crops before eating them. Had I any sort of mite problem on flowers which I could not fix with diatamaceous earth, I would rather spritz with Everclear than soap, because it evaporates and is food-safe. Though, I often have one lit while I spray my crops, so it doesn't seem exceptionally dangerous to smoke. Obviously the best preventative measure is to never have that problem, and thankfully I've learned that "companion planting", like using Korean Licorice Mint as "ground cover" (i.e. instead of grass, on top of soil with smart pots and the like) surrounding the base. It won't drive away or hurt arachnids.

*It is not at all just color and pungency, or rather perceptible pungency, colors which attract everything. My Tomatillos, albeit massive compared to the seedbanks.. lol.. drew more pests than I've ever seen on anything. They are known to be the oldest nightshade by tens or hundreds of thousands of years (IDR), but they have no smell, unlike the various tomatoes I've grown including this year. Saw adult Tomato horn worm/hawk moths almost every night through the summer, any gardener probably thinking "Oh fuck no..".. The only other plant it went to is ancient landrace NM chiles, and THAT ended entirely when I planted an older landrace tomatillo. Red Aztech Spinach is working just as well, and is a rainbow of color besides ancient. I have not tried planting licorice mint with either of those bait plants, but my end goal is using entirely plants rather than any sort of insecticide, even totally natural, and let the butterflies, spiders, and ladybugs enjoy them.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
UnBottle said:
It sure can, but alcohols COME from microbial life. Things stop further fermenting when yeast "maxes out", whether running out of sugars, which can kill weak yeasts easily, but the hardier wild yeasts keep on multiplying for years at even ~10% ethanol, slowly driving that number up, until it runs out of sugars, or gets around twice that strength when making liquor.

I spray D-Limonene in 190 Everclear (Literally a spritz or two on stalks) on bait plants*, so that it evaporates quickly, very sticky stuff and very pungent drawing more ladybugs, hummingbirds, butterflies, Dr. Bronnner's Peppermint and Hemp Tea Tree soap as a mite killer/prevention, the mint kills mites/insects and the tea tree oil is a STRONG antimicrobial and antifungal, antibacterial. Fortunately, it's very PH neutral. Also fortunately, I wash crops before eating them. Had I any sort of mite problem on flowers which I could not fix with diatamaceous earth, I would rather spritz with Everclear than soap, because it evaporates and is food-safe. Though, I often have one lit while I spray my crops, so it doesn't seem exceptionally dangerous to smoke. Obviously the best preventative measure is to never have that problem, and thankfully I've learned that "companion planting", like using Korean Licorice Mint as "ground cover" (i.e. instead of grass, on top of soil with smart pots and the like) surrounding the base. It won't drive away or hurt arachnids.

*It is not at all just color and pungency, or rather perceptible pungency, colors which attract everything. My Tomatillos, albeit massive compared to the seedbanks.. lol.. drew more pests than I've ever seen on anything. They are known to be the oldest nightshade by tens or hundreds of thousands of years (IDR), but they have no smell, unlike the various tomatoes I've grown including this year. Saw adult Tomato horn worm/hawk moths almost every night through the summer, any gardener probably thinking "Oh fuck no..".. The only other plant it went to is ancient landrace NM chiles, and THAT ended entirely when I planted an older landrace tomatillo. Red Aztech Spinach is working just as well, and is a rainbow of color besides ancient. I have not tried planting licorice mint with either of those bait plants, but my end goal is using entirely plants rather than any sort of insecticide, even totally natural, and let the butterflies, spiders, and ladybugs enjoy them.
Click to expand...
using the licorice root is part of the knf ohn formula,would love to see this you plant as a cover crop
 
U

UnBottle

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oldskol4evr said:
also ,are you using this in raised beds or row crop,im about ready to get something growing in mine for the mild winter we have
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No raised bed but many raised pots to stress, and row crops. I underestimated its potential and am kicking myself for not using a TON around the row garden (thankfully have a thousand or so seeds planted already for next year). Was just planting a dozen seeds or so in some crops' pots, like I said totally underestimating how much that mint and or licorice smell drives pests away- I started "juicing" my Sacred Basil flowers which too have a licorice mint flavor in my most coveted chiles' stalks, and when there were any insects around, not at all bothered by me, instantly flew away when I squeezed..

For anyone that doesn't already, absolutely recommend spraying the peppermint soap around all indoor rooms/tents, though again it will kill some beneficial insects too, but spritzing a 3 dimensional "square" on my porch, whilst being swarmed by dozens of ground bees, made em turn the hell around when they smelled it. Same with squeezing those flowers when there were all sorts of insects around (that probably wouldn't have been had I used it more heavily).

I should have the verdict on using it heavily as a pretty much full ground cover in pots ASAP, intended on already having my winter "hot house" enclosed shed up already, but have been slacking.. Harvest is almost over for all but the NM chiles and Tomatillos, but I've starting up some new crops (and attempting to throw everything potted, that I haven't yet, back into another cycle). Oh! Almost forgot to mention that it doesn't spread anywhere as near as aggressively as other mints, which might be good or bad depending on where/how one is growing.
 
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