Beds Are For F***ing! Small Pots = Big Buds!

[PharmHand]

No, I've found that to be more of a calcium/nitrogen issue than anything else. I run my phosphorus the heaviest from week 2/3 in veg until the end of the stretch period in flower.

Really..... hmmm. What ratios u like for early bloom? NPKCaMgS. Thanks again chief:)

 

[DetGrnThumb]

Really..... hmmm. What ratios u like for early bloom? NPKCaMgS. Thanks again chief:)

I run it all by feel really. My feedings are all predicated by how the plants are looking/behaving and my runoff numbers. I don't have set weekly numbers/dosages for anything and adjust on the fly. It helps that my Base A and B have all 16 primary, secondary and micros with the B being just magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and potassium. My C is a 0-10-12 and D is a 1-3-14 so I have the ability to tune my feeding rather easily with very few moving parts. I typically cut my cal/mag around day 10 of flower and start bumping the B somewhat like an additive. With the C being so heavily concentrated it helps me fine tune my P/K ratios while letting me push mag and sulfur as hard as I want

 

[Xinmat]

I have a few good friends that were pretty influential in the Dutch culture over the years. One is here in the states now and really is one of the most talented and knowledgeable people I've ever had the pleasure of meeting

 

[Xinmat]

The Dutch are very scientific and (please don't say, like Germans are)
You're lucky to meet a nice Dutch person, there is a big division between potheads & the conservative non city dwellers. Whom I cannot abide lol

 

[PharmHand]

I run it all by feel really. My feedings are all predicated by how the plants are looking/behaving and my runoff numbers. I don't have set weekly numbers/dosages for anything and adjust on the fly. It helps that my Base A and B have all 16 primary, secondary and micros with the B being just magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and potassium. My C is a 0-10-12 and D is a 1-3-14 so I have the ability to tune my feeding rather easily with very few moving parts. I typically cut my cal/mag around day 10 of flower and start bumping the B somewhat like an additive. With the C being so heavily concentrated it helps me fine tune my P/K ratios while letting me push mag and sulfur as hard as I want

What ratio cal:mag u typically run after day 10? I like to let my coco dry down between waterings in early flower, seems to make for stronger rooting and earlier fatter nugs. But I do see what appears to be slight mag def when doing that, calcium if I take it too far. It completely goes away once I start keeping them a little wetter. I wonder if I’d benefit from some additional mag early-mid flower? Too much mag late seems to make for a hard ash, hotter cherry in a doob. When do you cut mag? And how long ya typically flush? ( if u do) Just pumping you for info haha sorry:D

 

[DetGrnThumb]

What ratio cal:mag u typically run after day 10? I like to let my coco dry down between waterings in early flower, seems to make for stronger rooting and earlier fatter nugs. But I do see what appears to be slight mag def when doing that, calcium if I take it too far. It completely goes away once I start keeping them a little wetter. I wonder if I’d benefit from some additional mag early-mid flower? Too much mag late seems to make for a hard ash, hotter cherry in a doob. When do you cut mag? And how long ya typically flush? ( if u do) Just pumping you for info haha sorry:D

The only calcium my plants see after week 2 is from my base A. In flower I feed 6 times a day to a targeted runoff of 18-22% daily. That "dry down" theory is detrimental to plant health as far as I'm concerned. The only time I played with something like that was in between week 6-7 to "trick" the plants that there was a drought and to produce whatever they could before it was too late. I only flush for 7 days, but increase my water output substantially

 

[PharmHand]

The only calcium my plants see after week 2 is from my base A. In flower I feed 6 times a day to a targeted runoff of 18-22% daily. That "dry down" theory is detrimental to plant health as far as I'm concerned. The only time I played with something like that was in between week 6-7 to "trick" the plants that there was a drought and to produce whatever they could before it was too late. I only flush for 7 days, but increase my water output substantially

There’s definitely some evidence to support crop steering from generative
to productive using medium moisture levels from the agricultural world, I won’t argue that :) I’m not talking to the point of wilt ,maybe 28-32% moisture content in a 15 gal coco for a few hours before they get watered. And the mg- I’m referring to is only visible when looking up thru the leaf at a light from beneath- faint blotching in the upper most set that goes away once fully formed.
You know of slownickel on ig? He really emphasizes calcium, a lot of guys are.... What’s your take on high tissue cal levels for canna? Do you flush with ro? Or slight cal water? Gracias:)

 

[ethcan]

Yeah, we're real close with our Canadian approval. Another thing people overlook when promoting lateral shoot growth is increased phosphorus dosing. In my opinion a 0-50-30 Monopotassium Phosphate additive is better utilized in small doses early in propagation and more heavily in the back end of veg/flower transition followed by more emphasis on potassium, magnesium and sulfur as you get deeper into flower while cutting back a bit on the phosphorus to maximize oil production while losing out on plant material (flower) weight by pushing phosphorus early to produce more flowering nodes while stacking them more tightly. Obviously every strain has their limit, but with strong genetics you can really manipulate node spacing by stacking P/K
View attachment 843989

Could you elaborate on this a bit? Thank you in advance...

 

[Xinmat]

[/QUOTE
I bought a Maxibright 315 CMD, with the Phillips lamp, within hours the difference is incredible.
This site advised me & they are spot on.
Energy efficiency is fab, silent nights, control of heat.
Very pleased with the product

 

[Dai]

I've been looking through the posts and them plants in 1 gallon pots are mental I got good results from 11 litre pots but fair play to this plants they are impressive

 

[Dai]

What's the best nutes etc to use with coco can anyone give any suggestions please

 

[JWM2]

What's the best nutes etc to use with coco can anyone give any suggestions please

Salt based ferts. Start with canna brand nutes. Their nutrients are meant for coco mediums. You don’t need an elaborate nutrient regimen, start simple but bottom line is just start growing.

 

[xPeacePipex]

One gallon grow-bags filled 3/4 with Coco and fed x2 by hand daily..

 

[xPeacePipex]

Untied

 

[xPeacePipex]

Another big girl root bound as well in a partial filled one gallon grow-bag of Coco

 

[xPeacePipex]

And a few more girls in one gallon bags. I have been working with the one gallon for years and my larger pots and bags are all outside..

 

[hyzerflip]

And a few more girls in one gallon bags. I have been working with the one gallon for years and my larger pots and bags are all outside..

Holy sheeeeit dude, nice air roots. It must be humid as hell in your room, how do you keep PM or mold from becoming an issue?

 

[xPeacePipex]

What's the best nutes etc to use with coco can anyone give any suggestions please

It's subjective and I don't bother with the bottles and the high prices, let alone anything labeled for Coco, instead of I have used every dry fertilizer available and I have zero loyalty to any one company. With that said, GH Maxi Bloom &Grow, Veg+Bloom, MegaCrop and Mendocino Hydro by Growmore to name a few. With a little gypsum applied by top dressing I have made just about any and all fertilizers coco compatible if there really is such a thing. Having been a hydro tech and store owner I have used just about anything else you can name..

 

[xPeacePipex]

@hyzerflip.. Thx, those adventurous roots were induced with a ideal VPD. Never have been through PM unless infected clones were taken in unknowingly. Mold resistance is something that I breed for and if they don't have it, well I cull before they can get infected. There's just way to many indications of such once you have been through this enough. Only in the winter months does the VPD drop lower than ideal, otherwise it is always dialed in..

 

[xPeacePipex]

VPD